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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 11:23 pm Post subject: European glass not available in the US |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Glass is termed "European glass" and is thinner than our single strength
window glass and more importantly, is ground on one side. How expensive
is this glass in GB and Europe? I was looking for 2 pieces 8.5"x 11.5".
Bill |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 11:48 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
http://www.dokasphotos.com/techniques/ground_glass/
this one ? _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 11:54 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Yep, that is where I found info on how to grind down our own glass, but
was wondering how expensive is the real thing. The procedure set forth
in the link could have high FOF (Failed Operation Factor). |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 12:05 am Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I try to understand and ask my local dealer _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 12:20 am Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Thanks, Attila! |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:17 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Bill, I've never heard of "European glass" over here. All normal window glass here these days has to be at least 4mm thick for safety, but I think it might still be possible to buy 3mm "agricultural glass", used in greenhouses. The only glass 2mm thick I know about is "picture" glass, maybe you could get a couple of cheap photo or picture frames? _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:49 am Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Peter, that sounds like a good idea! I wonder if some picture glass is
ground on one side for antiglare... I'm using these for negative/positive holders for scanning. I'm going to call around to different glass places,
and if they don't have any glass ground on one side, will try grinding my own from single strength window glass. |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:06 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Katastrofo wrote: |
I'm using these for negative/positive holders for scanning. |
In that case the thickness isn't critical is it? I thought you meant for a camera. You can acid etch or sandblast glass too for almost the same effect. And frosted glass shopfronts these days are done with applied film on plain glass (like 3M Magictape). So there's lots of ways to do it! _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:31 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Thanks, Peter, some ideas to consider! |
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Richard_D
Joined: 21 Oct 2007 Posts: 2378 Location: Faversham Kent UK
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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Richard_D wrote:
You can also buy frosting spray - don't know how well it works...
It might be worth trying your local picture framers to see what they've got. _________________ Richard
The interesting bit:
Nikkors: 20mm f2.8 AIS, 24mm f2.8 AIS, 28mm f2.8 AIS, 35mm f2 AIS, 50mm f1.4 AI, 50mm f1.48AI, 50m f2 AI,
55mm f3.5 AI'd, 105mm f4 AI, 135mm f2.8 AI'd, 135mm f3.5 AI'd, 200mm f4 AI'd .
Nikon E Series: 100mm f2.8 .
Soviet Nikon Mount: Zenitar 16mm f2.8, Arsat/arax/photex 85mm T&S f2.8 .
Other: Asahi Super Takumar 55 mm f2 (M42) ,Tamron 300mm f5.6 SP, Tamron 500mm f8 SP.
DSLR: Nikon D700. 35mm SLRsNikon FE, Pentax S1a.
TLR: Rolliecord II.
Sub-Minature: Pentax Auto 110, 18mm f2.8, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f2.8.
More to come... |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Found a picture frame company that stocks non-glare glass and can cut
it any dimension from the 11x14" blank. Will see what shakes. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 3:19 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Great! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 11:29 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Bill, I've never heard of "European glass" over here. All normal window glass here these days has to be at least 4mm thick for safety, but I think it might still be possible to buy 3mm "agricultural glass", used in greenhouses. The only glass 2mm thick I know about is "picture" glass, maybe you could get a couple of cheap photo or picture frames? |
Peter, your idea of picture frame glass and my idea of non-glare glass I
think has paid off! The non-glare stuff is ground on one side, the other side
is shiny. I just had a piece cut that will fit the bottom of the scanner (less
almost a half inch at the top) for $16.20 tax included. This is about 2mm
thick, brought my calipers home so will verify. More to follow...
Bill |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:00 am Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Here's a quick and dirty scan to see if it works. For masking I used heavy
construction paper, flat black, comes 50 sheets to a pack for $1.99 at
Staples, 9x12":
Some dust, didn't clean up all of it, and probably from using a strip of
emory cloth to dull the glass edges. Pic is a little over-exposed, will try
some others. How is sharpness in this?
Bill
Last edited by Katastrofo on Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:12 am; edited 1 time in total |
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maddog10
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 1072 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2015-02-12
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:04 am Post subject: |
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maddog10 wrote:
Looks good on my monitor, but I am getting older (and not wearing my glasses)
Are you just laying the strips on the scanner, without a holder, and using the glass to flatten them? _________________ Michael Hill |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:16 am Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
No, the negs are taped to the cut glass and it has thin black cardboard
squares in each corner. The film is taped to the glass shiny side of neg touching glass, then I horizontal flip in PS. Needs tweaking, but am
somewhat encouraged. |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 4:39 am Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
After doing some comparisons with the stock filmholders, it's back to the
drawing board. Betterscanning beckons...
Here's a comparison of stock filmholder and using the frame glass:
filmholder
frame glass
Both scans, same settings, just resized and some sharpening is all.
The frame glass must have a coating, not ground like I hoped. Gives a very aberrant histogram with a quarter inch gap! Trying to cure it's hazy glare and lack of contrast was a waste of time. Oh well. I think any coating, or using magic tape, would yield the same crappy or crappier
results. Just an FYI. |
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maddog10
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 1072 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2015-02-12
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 9:28 am Post subject: |
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maddog10 wrote:
Was the glass thickness correct? The holders are designed to hold the negative a certain distance from the scanner lens. Very noticeable difference between the samples. _________________ Michael Hill |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 9:55 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
I don't think I really understand what you're attempting here Bill. Why do you need to have a coated or ground glass between the scanner lens and the film? If you need to use glass for mounting, wouldn't it be best to use plain clear glass with the film below it? (i.e. with the film sandwiched between the platen and your glass). That way the glass wouldn't affect the scanner definition. All you'd need to do is make sure the film is spaced away from the glass to avoid Newtons rings and to get proper focus. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 11:18 am Post subject: |
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A G Photography wrote:
You need this:
http://www.betterscanning.com/scanning/insert.html _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 12:21 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Alessandro, I mentioned Betterscanning in my above post and am familiar
with Doug's offerings.
Mike, thickness of glass is not that important, distance from scanning bed
is, and determined by the cardboard pads in each corner of the cut glass.
I'm using this much like the ANR glass where you have the curved side of
the negative facing the cut glass where it is taped flat to it and facing
towards the scanning bed. Something is giving me killer glare, either from
the coating on the cut glass which I'd hoped was ground but isn't or the
masking I'm using (construction paper). The construction paper I positioned
on other side of cut glass and it wasn't taped down, just resting on the cut
glass. I'll try a few more things, but I think the culprit is in the coating on
the glass.
Peter, in my above setup, am I doing something drastically wrong?
Bill |
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maddog10
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 1072 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2015-02-12
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 12:55 pm Post subject: |
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maddog10 wrote:
Is light leaking in from the sides? The holders somewhat keep this from happening. Did you try it with the white background, instead of the black? _________________ Michael Hill |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
The one thing or actually two things I'll try is no masking whatsoever, or
tape the masking down on the same side as the negative. Here's a scan
where the negative is resting right on the scanner bed held down by coins,
nothing else:
This is using the the Epson 2450. If it was 1mm above the scanning bed,
sharpness would've been improved. But there are no glare or contrast
problems.
Bil |
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Xpres
Joined: 11 Dec 2007 Posts: 964 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-10-28
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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Xpres wrote:
Bill - You mention ANR glass. Couldn't you use that? I use a 5x4 piece in the neg carrier of my enlarger - it came with it, but surely can't be that hard to get hold of. ebay maybe? _________________ Film... and sometimes SD14, 5D2 and some other suff! |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Xpres, I can get ANR glass from Betterscanning, but they are cut for
specific filmholders, nothing larger. |
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