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What kind of post-processing do you usually apply?
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What kind of post-processing do you usually apply?
None. I take the JPG out of the cam.
0%
 0%  [ 0 ]
Only RAW-Developing without adjusting anything.
12%
 12%  [ 3 ]
RAW-Developing with common adjustments like Saturation, Contrast...
52%
 52%  [ 13 ]
Photoshop with advanced processing.
20%
 20%  [ 5 ]
Gimp with advances processing.
4%
 4%  [ 1 ]
Others. Please specify.
12%
 12%  [ 3 ]
Total Votes : 25



PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:14 pm    Post subject: What kind of post-processing do you usually apply? Reply with quote

Tell how you process your pics usually, i. E. in most cases.


PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To open very fast all images -Faststone Image Viewer
To process jpg source file - CS2
To process PEF (Pentax RAW) Camera RAW with CS2
To process CR2 (Canon RAW) Capture One 4.83 some simple adjustment then finally TIFF in CS2


PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Bibble. Bit of a problem right now because they are having serious problems finishing version 5, which is in grave danger of becoming vaporware. But version 4 has the terrific advantage of permitting non-invasive plugins of which many really good ones have been produced. The result is I rarely need to go any further - no PS thank heavens (nor Gimp, which I also have and sometimes use). This allows me to do virtually all the standard adjustments including lens aberration correction, sharpening, saturation, tone, zone system exposure adjustments etc at the raw level.


patrickh


PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I shoot digital only, so I always need to do some PP.

My typical and quick method uses CS3 for it all:
Exposure, Gamma and Saturation from the RAW file with Adobe ACR,
size reduction in CS3, then Unsharp Mask.

I've recently found CS3 to have a great panorama stitcher, so I've ditched
the Microsoft freebie I tried for that, and CS3 also includes a nicely
automated feature for combining exposures to HDR.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depend, I modify only if necessary, dark, contrast less etc.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I is impossible to shoot RAW without adjusting anything. Maybe some just use a programs default but that is still adjusting.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of the reasons I chose a Nikon camera was because I liked the look of out-of-camera JPGs. I never thought that I would shoot in RAW. Once I did I tried ACR. Unfortunately Nikon didn't reveal all their secrets to Adobe and I was never able to get the look that I wanted. So now it's Nixon NX2 for RAW development. I'm not completely familiar with it - so I use PSE5 for cropping and resizing. Also cloning. Although it only works in 8-bit in PSE.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lahnet wrote:
I is impossible to shoot RAW without adjusting anything. Maybe some just use a programs default but that is still adjusting.


Yes.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lahnet wrote:
I is impossible to shoot RAW without adjusting anything. Maybe some just use a programs default but that is still adjusting.

the better the lens is, the less you have to adjust anything

I use acr 4.4, all other settings modify colors
I checked with a IT8 card and even new neutral and faithfull destroy colors
all slider to 0
sharpening and noise are not 0 by default, I verify they are all 0
I don't touch any slider (except sometimes recovery) and import to photoshop
I go to options of Levels and set Highlights to 0.01
with my good lens Levels filter doesn't change nothing so I don't use it
I don't make any other adjustment or sharpening and I print

Now for MFlenses it is different because I have to impress the beginners Laughing
I make a unsharp mask 140-0.3
I modify curves to boost contrast
I resize with normal bicubic to 900 pixels for Peter
I use Filter-Reduce Noise to 25% for last sharpening

If the pic is very bad:
I try repair temperature, exposition in acr
I send to bin

I don't use noise reduction, not needed for 900 pixels images
if I have to use one, I use noiseware professional


PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sichko wrote:
Unfortunately Nikon didn't reveal all their secrets to Adobe and I was never able to get the look that I wanted.


Adobe's RAW converter just is not capable of same results as NX2, because Nikon has chosen not to reveal all of the source code for their NEF RAW format. Noticeable differences are mostly in shadow detail and DR. NX2's user interface sucks but results are in a different league.

I convert RAW to TIFF with NX2 and then use Photoshop to clone out dust or retouch imperfections. If it's only for my Flickr blog or web forums I just save as JPEG. If it's for commercial use I go through the image at 200% but mostly I do neutral adjustments - magazines and stock photography mostly requires less aggressive adjustments. Advertising shots usually require quite aggressive adjustments and files end up at hundreds of MB with dozens of layers.

I never use color noise removal, that's simply not needed when using a D3. In D2x times I used NoiseNinja (software, not plugin) to remove color noise.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually shoot RAW in Av/Tv modes with bracketing and CS2 for contrast,brightness and WB. As for changes in sharpness/focus, I thought that was why we are using MF lenses and it shouldn't be needed? Further, if posted images have been heavily touched up in any software, shouldn't there be a disclaimer to that effect so it is apparent that the result is not the lens itself? Just my thoughts and as I always say - Everyone is allowed to have their own unique wrong opinion. Smile Smile Smile Smile Smile


PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tend to do nothing special with my pictures.

1. Shoot in RAW
2. Import in Adobe Photoshop CS2 from Adobe Camera RAW (all default settings, sorry Poilu Wink "Repair" highlights and/or blacks if needed.
3. If there's a clear white point in the picture I use the white balance pipette, otherwise I don't fiddle with it in ACR.
4. Once in Photoshop: modify levels if needed
5. Resize to 1024 pixels wide
6. Sharpening and add a border with a Photoshop action: "Absolute Sharpening Web".

A very simple workflow I think...


PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I record images digitally using two different methods: my DSLR and my scanner. It's also worth noting, I believe, that when I digitize slides I use a slide duplicator with my DSLR. I've had better results duping slides instead of scanning them. Color tends to be more accurate and they are sharper. Plus the digitizing process is quite a bit faster.

With the DSLR, I shoot in RAW mode, and often do pp in the processing software that came with the camera. But I almost never finish at that point. I finish the pp process in my image processing software.

Similarly, when I'm scanning an image, I will do some "pre-precessing" using the scanner's imaging software, but will finish the job with my image processing software.

My image processing software of choice is Paint Shop Pro Photo X2 Ultimate (or PSPX2 for short). I can't afford CS4, and I don't like Gimp. I also own a copy of PS7 and PSP8. I used to use both of these about equally prior to buying PSPX2, and will still use them occasionally, but I'm happy with PSPX2. It does everything I need and then some.

What I actually do, processing-wise, varies from image to image. Typically it may go something like this:

Dust removal, as required. I use an Epson scanner, and really don't care for ICE or its regular dust removal setting, so I just do it manually using the clone brush.

Fix technical issues such as horizons that aren't horizontal, etc.

If necessary, apply PSP's "Clarify" filter or "Curves" and adjust the latter based on the histogram. Sometimes I'll use Levels, but Curves usually does what I need with less fuss.

Correct color if necessary using PSP's Express Lab. If color correction is difficult, I'll sometimes use the Hue Map filter.

Try a bit of either Unsharp Masking or High-Pass Filter to see first, if the image benefits from either (often it doesn't), and second, to see which gives the best result.

Saturation -- try a bit of increase, see how it looks. Maybe I'll keep it, maybe not.