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What kind of post-processing do you usually apply? |
None. I take the JPG out of the cam. |
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0% |
[ 0 ] |
Only RAW-Developing without adjusting anything. |
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12% |
[ 3 ] |
RAW-Developing with common adjustments like Saturation, Contrast... |
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52% |
[ 13 ] |
Photoshop with advanced processing. |
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20% |
[ 5 ] |
Gimp with advances processing. |
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4% |
[ 1 ] |
Others. Please specify. |
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12% |
[ 3 ] |
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Total Votes : 25 |
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wol
Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Posts: 63 Location: Germany
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Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:14 pm Post subject: What kind of post-processing do you usually apply? |
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wol wrote:
Tell how you process your pics usually, i. E. in most cases. |
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voytek
Joined: 24 Nov 2009 Posts: 891
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Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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voytek wrote:
To open very fast all images -Faststone Image Viewer
To process jpg source file - CS2
To process PEF (Pentax RAW) Camera RAW with CS2
To process CR2 (Canon RAW) Capture One 4.83 some simple adjustment then finally TIFF in CS2 _________________ Cheers, Voytek |
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patrickh
Joined: 23 Aug 2007 Posts: 8551 Location: Oregon
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:46 pm Post subject: |
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patrickh wrote:
I use Bibble. Bit of a problem right now because they are having serious problems finishing version 5, which is in grave danger of becoming vaporware. But version 4 has the terrific advantage of permitting non-invasive plugins of which many really good ones have been produced. The result is I rarely need to go any further - no PS thank heavens (nor Gimp, which I also have and sometimes use). This allows me to do virtually all the standard adjustments including lens aberration correction, sharpening, saturation, tone, zone system exposure adjustments etc at the raw level.
patrickh _________________ DSLR: Nikon D300 Nikon D200 Nex 5N
MF Zooms: Kiron 28-85/3.5, 28-105/3.2, 75-150/3.5, Nikkor 50-135/3.5 AIS // MF Primes: Nikkor 20/4 AI, 24/2 AI, 28/2 AI, 28/2.8 AIS, 28/3.5 AI, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 35/2.8 PC, 45/2.8 P, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 AIS micro, 55/3.5 AI micro, 85/2 AI, 100/2,8 E, 105/1,8 AIS, 105/2,5 AIS, 135/2 AIS, 135/2.8 AIS, 200/4 AI, 200/4 AIS micro, 300/4.5 AI, 300/4.5 AI ED, Arsat 50/1.4, Kiron 28/2, Vivitar 28/2.5, Panagor 135/2.8, Tamron 28/2.5, Tamron 90/2.5 macro, Vivitar 90/2.5 macro (Tokina) Voigtlander 90/3.5 Vivitar 105/2.5 macro (Kiron) Kaleinar 100/2.8 AI Tamron 135/2.5, Vivitar 135/2.8CF, 200/3.5, Tokina 400/5,6
M42: Vivitar 28/2.5, Tamron 28/2.5, Formula5 28/2.8, Mamiya 28/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Flektogon 35/2.4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Takumar 35/3.5, Curtagon 35/4, Takumar 50/1.4, Volna-6 50/2.8 macro, Mamiya 50/1.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1,8, Oreston 50/1.8, Takumar 50/2, Industar 50/3.5, Sears 55/1.4, Helios 58/2, Jupiter 85/2, Helios 85/1.5, Takumar 105/2.8, Steinheil macro 105/4.5, Tamron 135/2.5, Jupiter 135/4, CZ 135/4, Steinheil Culminar 135/4,5, Jupiter 135/3.5, Takumar 135/3.5, Tair 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, CZ 135/2.8, Taika 135/3.5, Takumar 150/4, Jupiter 200/4, Takumar 200/4
Exakta: Topcon 100/2.8(M42), 35/2.8, 58/1.8, 135/2.8, 135/2.8 (M42), Kyoei Acall 135/3.5
C/Y: Yashica 28/2.8, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, Zeiss Planar 50/1.4, Distagon 25/2.8
Hexanon: 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 40/1.8, 50/1.7, 52/1.8, 135/3.2, 135/3.5, 35-70/3.5, 200/3.5
P6 : Mir 38 65/3.5, Biometar 80/2.8, Kaleinar 150/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Minolta SR: 28/2.8, 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 45/2, 50/2, 58/1.4, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, 200/3.5
RF: Industar 53/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2
Enlarg: Rodagon 50/5,6, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, Vario 44-52/4, 150/5.6 180/5.6 El Nikkor 50/2,8,63/2.8,75/4, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, 135/5.6 Schneider 60/5.6, 80/5.6, 80/4S,100/5.6S,105/5.6,135/5.6, 135/5.6S, 150/5.6S, Leica 95/4 |
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SkedAddled
Joined: 19 Oct 2008 Posts: 1442 Location: Michigan, USA
Expire: 2021-08-12
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Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 2:58 am Post subject: |
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SkedAddled wrote:
I shoot digital only, so I always need to do some PP.
My typical and quick method uses CS3 for it all:
Exposure, Gamma and Saturation from the RAW file with Adobe ACR,
size reduction in CS3, then Unsharp Mask.
I've recently found CS3 to have a great panorama stitcher, so I've ditched
the Microsoft freebie I tried for that, and CS3 also includes a nicely
automated feature for combining exposures to HDR. _________________ Craig
Of course I'm all right! Why? What have you heard!?
Canon Digital EOS 5D Mk IV, EOS 50D, Powershot S3 iS
Vivitar 28 f/2.8 OM - Zuiko 50 f/1.8 OM - Tamron SP 28-80 f/3.5 AD2[Favorite!] - Hanimar 135 f/3.5 M42 - Soligor 135 f/2.8 T4 - Tamron SP 60-300 f/3.8 AD2 - Soligor 75-260 f/4.5 M42 - Soligor 400 f/6.3 T4 - Soligor 500 f/8 T2 Cat + Matched 2X TC - Addiction Growing!
This is us -- We drive these -- We're named these |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:15 am Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Depend, I modify only if necessary, dark, contrast less etc. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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lahnet
Joined: 10 Apr 2007 Posts: 1164 Location: Denmark
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Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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lahnet wrote:
I is impossible to shoot RAW without adjusting anything. Maybe some just use a programs default but that is still adjusting. _________________ Henrik
Lahnet-Foto
My FLICKR
Gear list |
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sichko
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 2475 Location: South West UK
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Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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sichko wrote:
One of the reasons I chose a Nikon camera was because I liked the look of out-of-camera JPGs. I never thought that I would shoot in RAW. Once I did I tried ACR. Unfortunately Nikon didn't reveal all their secrets to Adobe and I was never able to get the look that I wanted. So now it's Nixon NX2 for RAW development. I'm not completely familiar with it - so I use PSE5 for cropping and resizing. Also cloning. Although it only works in 8-bit in PSE. _________________ John |
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sichko
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 2475 Location: South West UK
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Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:12 pm Post subject: |
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sichko wrote:
lahnet wrote: |
I is impossible to shoot RAW without adjusting anything. Maybe some just use a programs default but that is still adjusting. |
Yes. _________________ John |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
lahnet wrote: |
I is impossible to shoot RAW without adjusting anything. Maybe some just use a programs default but that is still adjusting. |
the better the lens is, the less you have to adjust anything
I use acr 4.4, all other settings modify colors
I checked with a IT8 card and even new neutral and faithfull destroy colors
all slider to 0
sharpening and noise are not 0 by default, I verify they are all 0
I don't touch any slider (except sometimes recovery) and import to photoshop
I go to options of Levels and set Highlights to 0.01
with my good lens Levels filter doesn't change nothing so I don't use it
I don't make any other adjustment or sharpening and I print
Now for MFlenses it is different because I have to impress the beginners
I make a unsharp mask 140-0.3
I modify curves to boost contrast
I resize with normal bicubic to 900 pixels for Peter
I use Filter-Reduce Noise to 25% for last sharpening
If the pic is very bad:
I try repair temperature, exposition in acr
I send to bin
I don't use noise reduction, not needed for 900 pixels images
if I have to use one, I use noiseware professional |
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Esox lucius
Joined: 26 Aug 2008 Posts: 2441 Location: Helsinki, Finland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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Esox lucius wrote:
sichko wrote: |
Unfortunately Nikon didn't reveal all their secrets to Adobe and I was never able to get the look that I wanted. |
Adobe's RAW converter just is not capable of same results as NX2, because Nikon has chosen not to reveal all of the source code for their NEF RAW format. Noticeable differences are mostly in shadow detail and DR. NX2's user interface sucks but results are in a different league.
I convert RAW to TIFF with NX2 and then use Photoshop to clone out dust or retouch imperfections. If it's only for my Flickr blog or web forums I just save as JPEG. If it's for commercial use I go through the image at 200% but mostly I do neutral adjustments - magazines and stock photography mostly requires less aggressive adjustments. Advertising shots usually require quite aggressive adjustments and files end up at hundreds of MB with dozens of layers.
I never use color noise removal, that's simply not needed when using a D3. In D2x times I used NoiseNinja (software, not plugin) to remove color noise. _________________ Vilhelm
Nikon DSLR: D4, D800, Nikon D3, D70
Nikon SLR: Nikon F100, Nikon FM2n
Nikkor MF: 20/2.8 Ai-S, 24/2 Ai-S, 24/2.8 Ai-S, 28/2 Ai-S, 28/2.8 Ai-S, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 Ai-S, 45/2.8 GN, 50/1.2 Ai, 50/1.2 Ai-S, 50/1.4 Ai, 50/1.4 Ai-S, 50/1.8 AI-S "long", 50/1.8 AI-S "short", 55/1.2 Ai, 85/1.4 Ai-S, 85/1.8H, 105/2.5 Ai, 135/2.8Q, 135/3.5 Ai, 180/2.8 Ai-S ED
Nikkor AF/AF-S FX: 14-24/2.8G, 16/2.8D Fisheye, 16-35/4G VR, 17-35/2.8D, 24/1.4G, 24/3.5D PC-E, 24/2.8D, 24-70/2.8G, 28/1.4D, 28/1.8G, 35/1.4G, 35/2D, 50/1.4D, 50/1.4G, 50/1.8G, 60/2.8 Micro, 60/2.8G Micro, 70-200/2.8G VR, 70-200/2.8G VR II, 80-400/4.5-5.6D VR, 85/1.4G, 85/2.8D PC-E Micro, 105/2D DC, 105/2.8G VR Micro, 135/2D DC, 200/2G VR, 200-400/4G VR, 300/2.8G VR, 300/4D ED, 400/2.8G VR, 800/5.6E VR
Nikkor AF/AF-S DX: 10.5/2.8G Fisheye, 12-24/4G, 18-70/3.5-4.5G
Topcor: Auto-Topcor 58/1.4,
Voigtländer SL: 40/2 Ultron, 58/1.4 Nokton, 75/2.5 Color-Heliar, 90/3.5 APO-Lanthar, 125/2.5 APO-Lanthar, 180/4 APO-Lanthar
Zeiss ZF: Planar T* 85/1.4 ZF
M42 SLR: Voigtländer Bessaflex TM
M42: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.4, Tessar 50/2.8 T, Super-Takumar 55/1.8, Biotar 58/2 T, Pentacon 135/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5
Medium format: several Zeiss Super Ikonta 532/16 Opton-Tessar 80mm f/2.8, Zeiss Ikonta 524/16 Opton-Tessar 75mm f/3.5
Leica: R7, M4, Super-Angulon-R 4/21, Elmarit-R 2.8/28, Summicron-R 2/35, Summicron-M 2/35, Summicron-M 2/50, Elmarit-R 2,8/180 |
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greg
Joined: 21 Mar 2009 Posts: 683
Expire: 2012-12-03
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Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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greg wrote:
I usually shoot RAW in Av/Tv modes with bracketing and CS2 for contrast,brightness and WB. As for changes in sharpness/focus, I thought that was why we are using MF lenses and it shouldn't be needed? Further, if posted images have been heavily touched up in any software, shouldn't there be a disclaimer to that effect so it is apparent that the result is not the lens itself? Just my thoughts and as I always say - Everyone is allowed to have their own unique wrong opinion. |
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Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008 Posts: 4045 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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Spotmatic wrote:
I tend to do nothing special with my pictures.
1. Shoot in RAW
2. Import in Adobe Photoshop CS2 from Adobe Camera RAW (all default settings, sorry Poilu "Repair" highlights and/or blacks if needed.
3. If there's a clear white point in the picture I use the white balance pipette, otherwise I don't fiddle with it in ACR.
4. Once in Photoshop: modify levels if needed
5. Resize to 1024 pixels wide
6. Sharpening and add a border with a Photoshop action: "Absolute Sharpening Web".
A very simple workflow I think... _________________ Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 4:35 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
I record images digitally using two different methods: my DSLR and my scanner. It's also worth noting, I believe, that when I digitize slides I use a slide duplicator with my DSLR. I've had better results duping slides instead of scanning them. Color tends to be more accurate and they are sharper. Plus the digitizing process is quite a bit faster.
With the DSLR, I shoot in RAW mode, and often do pp in the processing software that came with the camera. But I almost never finish at that point. I finish the pp process in my image processing software.
Similarly, when I'm scanning an image, I will do some "pre-precessing" using the scanner's imaging software, but will finish the job with my image processing software.
My image processing software of choice is Paint Shop Pro Photo X2 Ultimate (or PSPX2 for short). I can't afford CS4, and I don't like Gimp. I also own a copy of PS7 and PSP8. I used to use both of these about equally prior to buying PSPX2, and will still use them occasionally, but I'm happy with PSPX2. It does everything I need and then some.
What I actually do, processing-wise, varies from image to image. Typically it may go something like this:
Dust removal, as required. I use an Epson scanner, and really don't care for ICE or its regular dust removal setting, so I just do it manually using the clone brush.
Fix technical issues such as horizons that aren't horizontal, etc.
If necessary, apply PSP's "Clarify" filter or "Curves" and adjust the latter based on the histogram. Sometimes I'll use Levels, but Curves usually does what I need with less fuss.
Correct color if necessary using PSP's Express Lab. If color correction is difficult, I'll sometimes use the Hue Map filter.
Try a bit of either Unsharp Masking or High-Pass Filter to see first, if the image benefits from either (often it doesn't), and second, to see which gives the best result.
Saturation -- try a bit of increase, see how it looks. Maybe I'll keep it, maybe not. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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