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Adapter exp. shift and Distagon 1.4/35
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 1:58 am    Post subject: Adapter exp. shift and Distagon 1.4/35 Reply with quote

I took these two pictures to show two things; the difference of rendering of the Distagon 1.4/35 Contax version at closeup focus at f/1.4 and f/8 respectively,
and the exposure shift caused by an EOS FA chipped adapter.





These pics were taken on an uncorrected 5DMkII (by uncorrected I mean that it still has the original focusing screen).
The adapter has aperture 1.4 burnt in. The multiple mode was used for metering.
As you can see, there is a significant light shift when it comes to a 5 stops interval. But, even in this extreme situation
(a 5 stops interval is something that normally a photographer would not use so often), I'd say there is no real disaster; both pictures are recoverable with some RAW editing.
So I wanted to show that even in the worst possible condition, the shift caused by the MF lenses on the 5DMkII is not such a desperation after all.
Of course, you HAVE to shoot raw - these pictures would be unrecoverable if they were jpgs.

P.S. I did no intelligent light metering - I intentionally used the dumb metering method (letting the camera decide)


PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also experienced over-exposure with the contax 1.4/35 + 50d, but i was thinking that it was happening due to the adapter being programmed to be f2, and of course the camera calculations of the shutter speed is based on that, so what i did is to compensate with under exposure by the time i go to f5.6 and beyond with some level of success, but ultimately the RAW shooting and correcting on the computer will make the trick and bring the photo as it should. I tried recently puting a paper on the chip so the camera wouldn't read the aperture from the lens, and the overexposure was still there but only appears in apertures from f8 onwards. (by 5.6 its a bit overexposed but easily corrected in post processing). How do you do the light mettering? do you use an external meter? i think i might need to improve my skills since i rely on the camera metering and just add some underexposure when stopping down the lens...
Greetings!


Last edited by poncho_morales on Tue Jun 23, 2009 12:22 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's posible that i'm not in true, but in this shoot I think that if you use the puntual mettering (in the camera) the picture would be better (1.4 shoot)

It's something that I have experimented a lot when I shoot birds. With the evaluative mettering, the sky appears well, but the birds very dark.
However, with the puntual mettering, the ligth diference between the objects it's more soft.



Only one thing it's true... I want this 35!! Laughing Laughing



Regards


PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just experienced exposure shift with EOS-AF chipped adapter while testing my Trioplan 2.9/50.
I have to do the test again.
In the following image you see the shift in 7 exposures from 2.9 to 22


PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chiti wrote:
It's posible that i'm not in true, but in this shoot I think that if you use the puntual mettering (in the camera) the picture would be better (1.4 shoot)


Of course I should have done manual metering if I wanted to make a real photo, but instead I wanted to show the shift in the metering using standard matrix metering method of the camera.

The test shows a gap of 5 stops which is a LOT. It's like the difference between full sunlight at noon and twilight. Yet it would be possible to recover both shots using RAW, especially if a wiser metering was applied instead of accepting the camera's default.

This shows I think that even in the extreme conditions, the exposure shift is not so destructive, even if you take quick snapshots without the time to set compensation in the camera. Sure, for this type of fast shots, one must forget jpgs, raw is a must... but so it should always be for any photographer who cares about its digital files, so...


PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only shoot in raw.... the only times that I shoot in jpgs is when me and my friends doing the tipical party and we want take some photos...and there pics are taken with an AF lens (at one hour in the night, try manual is very difficult Laughing Laughing )


With my experience, when we shoot things or landscapes with extreme ligth and shadows; I recomend set +1/3 or +2/3 (in Auto exposure mode) when we are shooting with extreme apertures (like 1.4, 2, or in a few cases 2.8 )

Whe should remember that the 80% of the information are in the ligths, as long as we don't burn the lights completly... hehehe



Regards


PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Orio, do you have the conversion of these two captures after some post work? I would like to see the finished result you get with these 2 images on a side by side comparision.