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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 11:15 pm Post subject: For "scratch free" lens lovers |
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Attila wrote:
http://www.certo6.com/gallery/planar.html _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 11:19 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Well, I can see the bug shadow in the picture But surely it does not look as bad as the lens
In any case I would not buy a lens in this condition.
What is the black thread, I wonder? A crack in an inner glass? _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 11:26 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I guess inner element is cracked. I have a cracked 85mm f1.8 PK Pentax SMC, I bought for 15 EUR beautiful portrait lens. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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maddog10
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 1072 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2015-02-12
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 12:01 am Post subject: |
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maddog10 wrote:
I think it is where someone opened the lens and when rebuilding it got a piece of debris, like when you cross thread something and it cuts out new material. Bug probably got in when the lens was open _________________ Michael Hill |
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Abbazz
Joined: 23 Jun 2007 Posts: 1098 Location: Jakarta
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 12:12 am Post subject: |
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Abbazz wrote:
Usually, few large scratches or big cracks are far less annoying than many small scratches or so called "cleaning marks." The latter tend to reduce contrast and induce flare and there is nothing to do about it, except to have the damaged lens repolished, which is quite expensive and always damageable to the lens, as its thickness is modified. Usually large scratches don't affect much the picture and it is quite easy to fill the defects with mate black paint to make them invisible. Yes, this is the way you deal with large scratches on a lens: you just paint them back. The black paint is totally invisible to the eye (if there is a large area painted, it may affect a little bit the out of focus patterns and the aperture of the lens) and yet masks totally the glass defects.
These defects are also far more annoying when they occur at the rear element than at the front element. The closer from the film, the more visible the defect. Usually, a few deep scratches on the front element are not so bad. But a scratch on the rear element or an almost invisible web of tiny "cleaning marks" on the front element can make a lens unusable.
Cheers!
Abbazz _________________ Il n'y a rien dans le monde qui n'ait son moment decisif, et le chef-d'oeuvre de la bonne conduite est de connaitre et de prendre ce moment. - Cardinal de Retz
The 6x9 Photography Online Resource:
http://artbig.com/ |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 2:09 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
It seem to me that the crack is in the front group, that is better that if was at the rear group and the bad plus is at the rear element.
the people say that with your own crack lens, the pics are very good. I know a photographer that tell me : "I have a 180/2,8 Nikon with cleaning marks and is one of the shapest lens that I have".
Some puts the lens in the bag with the rear element up with cap, and with the front element down without any cap.
I do not this. Im very carefull with my lenses, may be because I have a collector soul more than a photographer.
Regards, Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:12 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I bought "pro" lenses they are incredible scratched, "cleaning marked" I think a reporter used them without caps and store in bags with other gears. They takes wonderful sharp pictures. (Nikkor 28mm f2.8 AIS) Nikkor 24mm f2 AIS.
I have also cleaning marked Biotar with lot of cleaning marks on surface , exactly as Abbaz described , unusable. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:35 am Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
Well. When I bought my first 20/4 (the best that I have), as in my country didn't be other copy in the shops, I did the operation.
It has a front element with lot of cleaning marks, I said a lot and it is.
At F/8, 11 and 16, the center is excelent, and the corners so so (at F/16 the corner is good).
I not use the lens with color film yet. I think that may be better than with B&W, because somebody tells me that the color rendition of the Flekt is one of his better things. I will see.
Regards, Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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Abbazz
Joined: 23 Jun 2007 Posts: 1098 Location: Jakarta
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Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 3:21 am Post subject: |
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Abbazz wrote:
Here's another link to a page featuring sharp pictures taken with a filthy lens:
http://www.deansphotographica.com/deans_of_idaho/old_stuff_pages/dirtylenstest/dirtylenstest.html
Cheers!
Abbazz _________________ Il n'y a rien dans le monde qui n'ait son moment decisif, et le chef-d'oeuvre de la bonne conduite est de connaitre et de prendre ce moment. - Cardinal de Retz
The 6x9 Photography Online Resource:
http://artbig.com/ |
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yalcinaydin
Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 825 Location: Izmir, Turkey
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Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 6:34 am Post subject: |
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yalcinaydin wrote:
My Rokkor-X PG 50/1.4 has marks on the front screen like cleaning marks but I can't see any effects of it on reversed lens macro usage.
Here is the lens and the photo:
_________________ My name is "Yalcin", and exactly "Yalçın" and here you can find my MF samples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/
Right now switching back to AF because of work needs but I still love the MF lenses |
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