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David
Joined: 13 Apr 2011 Posts: 1869 Location: Denver, Colorado
Expire: 2013-01-25
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 8:02 pm Post subject: Two formulae for adding IR sensitization to film emulsions |
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David wrote:
With IR film being increasingly rare, I set about finding a book that would describe how to make IR-sensitive emulsions. The idea being that with a dry plate camera I could make a plate and then sensitize it to IR or I could try sensitizing a standard film emulsion to IR.
N.B. that doing this is at your own risk and that you will be responsible for the proper safety and ventilation. This post is for information only.
The first formula will provide sensitivity up to about 8,900 Angstroms, peaking at 7,900 Angstroms. The second formula provides sensitivity up to more than 10,000 Angstroms (perhaps up to 12,000 Angstroms) but with much less sensitivity than the first formula except above about 8,500 Angstroms.
Sensitization by Bathing
Methods for sensitizing plates by bathing in solutions of dyes are very numerous. The following formulae will, however, be found to give satisfactory results. It is important that plates of medium sensitivity which work without giving much fog should be used.
Kryptocyanine and Rubrocyanine
1 in 10,000 solution of the dye in methyl alcohol 1 c.c.
Industrial spirit 165 c.c.
Distilled water to make up 500 c.c.
Bathe the plates 3 min. in this solution. Dry in a current of cold air
More concentrated solutions up to 10 times the above strength may be used, but the risk of fogging is correspondingly higher.
Neocyanine and Allocyanine
1 in 10,000 solution of the dye in methyl alcohol 6 c.c.
Industrial spirit 165 c.c.
Distilled water to make up 500 c.c.
Bathe 2 to 3 min. Cry in a current of cold are.
The stock dye solutions do not keep well. They should be protected from light and should be discarded after about a week from the time of making up.
Bathing Technique
The plates should be put into the dye solution in such a way that the liquid flows right over the plate without a stop. The dish must be rocked very thoroughly. After bathing, they should be drained carefully so as to remove as much as possible of the superfluous liquid. When put to dry, the lower edges or corners when draining must be kept at the bottom.
Drying
This should be rapid. An ordinary electric office fan is very useful for this purpose. Great care should be taken to make the drying as even as possible.
Dishes
Ordinary porcelain dishes may be used, but they should be kept solely for dye sensitizing purposes. The dyes will separate out on the surface of the dishes and should be cleaned off from time to time with a little spirit and cotton wool. _________________ http://www.youtube.com/user/hancockDavidM |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 4:35 am Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
Very interesting. Thank you for sharing.
I have some Kryptocyanine at home and never knew that I could use it for stuff like that before
I used it as solution for strong DIY pulslasers before for laser air breadown (very cool effect, a laser pulse which is strong enough to burn air)
I wonder if I can make an IR film from my Lucky SHD 100 with it.
Neocyanine and especially Allocyanine are not very common chemicals, I guess very hard to find. _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)
Last edited by ForenSeil on Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:09 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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David
Joined: 13 Apr 2011 Posts: 1869 Location: Denver, Colorado
Expire: 2013-01-25
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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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David wrote:
I'll be very interested to see your results. If that works, I'll be trying it, too. _________________ http://www.youtube.com/user/hancockDavidM |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
I'm a skilled chemist but I just noticed that I'm a bit confused about the recipe
Quote: |
1 in 10,000 solution of the dye in methyl alcohol 1 c.c.
Industrial spirit 165 c.c.
Distilled water to make up 500 c.c. |
Does 1 in 10,000 mean 1/10000 or 1/10?
"," and "." in numbers are used differently all over the world.
Usually I would understand 1/10,000 = 1/10000 means 0,0001%
1cm³ of that in 500cm³ should give a solution of only 0,0000002%
That's sounds pretty homeopathic for me.
Is that correct or do I have a language barrier here?
Or it maybe mean 1/10,000 = 1/10 = 10% instead of 0,0001%?
Bye the way, does "industrial spirit" mean denaturated ethyl alcohol?
Bye the way: Where do you dry film emulsions? _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
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