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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:34 pm Post subject: Tessar 50mm alu reassembly |
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Jieffe wrote:
I need help !!!
I won that gorgeous lens on the Bay but the focus ring was very stiff (as described).
I took it apart, managed to clean the old grease, relube and .... no way to reassemble it
Part A screws into part B and then somehow part C is supposed to go in (and is secured by a ring not showed).
I cannot find the trick ...
Can anyone help ? Please ? |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
Some inner threads screw to opposite way. Did you try this? _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:51 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Hello,
I have never serviced this lens, but i was able to fix my Tessar 50/2.8 black with a little inspiration from http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-81.html. Hopefully, these notes will help you too ...
Hope this helps
Best regards |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
I'm sorry, I have simlar problems with my EXA-mount Tessar. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:05 pm Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
>estudleon : Yes, I tried in every possible ways ...
>Indianadinos : I have seen that sketch which looks indeed similar to my lens. But I can't find the way to reassemble with a functionnal cocking arm ...
>LucisPictor : I was afraid to hear that ... well, I still have a functionnal Tessar, zebra version |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5043 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 10:16 am Post subject: Re: Tessar 50mm alu reassembly |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Jieffe wrote: |
Part A screws into part B and then somehow part C is supposed to go in (and is secured by a ring not showed).
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Break part B into two and try in different order? _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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bawang
Joined: 26 Mar 2008 Posts: 548 Location: Indiana, USA
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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bawang wrote:
I am sorry I can't offer any help. I have similar stiff focusing issues on all my alum CZJs.
Let's hope our very own engineer luisalegria reads the post and help. He has been successful with many of these 'impossible' lens.
Or maybe you can contact hasan RE: http://forum.mflenses.com/carl-zeiss-jena-2-8-50-alu-finish-t6670.html |
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 6:56 pm Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
That's the exact same problem ! Thanks for pointing it out ! I'll ask him. |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 7:53 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
I have a very similar Tessar, 50/3.5 in Exakta mount, part "B" looks the same.
What parts can't you connect ?
Sometimes getting the helical sections back together can be difficult. It takes patience. Also, getting it back together properly can depend on where you start the screw.
I have a 40/4.5 Tessar that I'm still having problems with. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
luisalegria wrote: |
Sometimes getting the helical sections back together can be difficult. It takes patience. Also, getting it back together properly can depend on where you start the screw. |
I just read there are a dozen entry points to the helicoidal ....
I manage to screw A in B, but no way to insert C without blocking the focusing ring ... |
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hasan
Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Posts: 313
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 7:51 am Post subject: |
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hasan wrote:
Hello, I just read, that you have the same problem.
I PMed you, and would like to paste my PM to you also into this thread,
so maybe others could use it
Its managable, but really needs patience.
I had many many many many attempts, over and over.
After attempt 1000+ I had luck and it worked for me.
As far as I see it your part B is actually 2 parts,
which I had to separate into 2 parts aswell.
BUT here I see your advantage, because these 2 parts of B are most important,
If you havent disassembled them from each other yet,
you should be able to reassemble it, easily.
At disassembling, these 2 parts have to be matched.
You can use an EDDING(marker) and make a matching mark on both parts.
This will guarantee you the exact position, you need at reassembling.
The exact your marking, the easier to assemble them.
Lets name them B1(upper part) and B2(lower part).
On the lower part, there is a screw hole, which you have to unscrew.
IF I take your photo as basis, then it should be this order:
1. Put A onto C.
2. Screw B1 onto assembled A + C.
3. Last but tricky part is to fit B2 onto B1 + B + A + C.
Like I said, if you didnt disassembled B1 from B2 yet,
then you should have no problem.
Just fit those markings on both parts, and screw in.
But if you already disassembled them before,
then you have to find the matching screwing points.
This was my fault. I didnt mark these two parts before.
And if you find the correct position, like it was,
when you disassembled it, it should screw in.
You can try out to begin with feet M of B1 at the screwing hole of B2
Good luck and regards,
Hasan _________________ Pentax Z20 |Pentax K100D |SMC K35/3.5 |SMC K50/1.4 |SMC A50/1.4
|SMC K135/2.5 |SMC DA18-55 |SMC FA80-320 |AR 135/2.8(Chinon) |AR 55/1.4(M42)
|Sigma MF 90/2.8 |Sigma 28-80/3.5-5.6 |Exakta 24/2.8 |Vivitar 2x Macro Focusing TC |
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 9:54 pm Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
Hasan,
I followed your instructions and .... the lens is repaired !!!!
A BIG, BIG thank you ! |
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hasan
Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Posts: 313
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Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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hasan wrote:
Wow, gratulation.
I am really happy, that you fixed it,
since I think, this lens is one of the sharpest,
I've ever seen.
Now, we would like to see sample pics, right?!
regards
Hasan _________________ Pentax Z20 |Pentax K100D |SMC K35/3.5 |SMC K50/1.4 |SMC A50/1.4
|SMC K135/2.5 |SMC DA18-55 |SMC FA80-320 |AR 135/2.8(Chinon) |AR 55/1.4(M42)
|Sigma MF 90/2.8 |Sigma 28-80/3.5-5.6 |Exakta 24/2.8 |Vivitar 2x Macro Focusing TC |
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bawang
Joined: 26 Mar 2008 Posts: 548 Location: Indiana, USA
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Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:05 pm Post subject: |
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bawang wrote:
Mine has a stiff focusing. From your experience, what's the simplest way to make the focusing smooth again? It is so frustrating at times. I am so tempted to put a drop or two of lubricant between the space which I guess is part B1 and B2 (the distance and hyperfocus/aperture scales). |
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 6:24 am Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
bawang wrote: |
Mine has a stiff focusing. From your experience, what's the simplest way to make the focusing smooth again? It is so frustrating at times. I am so tempted to put a drop or two of lubricant between the space which I guess is part B1 and B2 (the distance and hyperfocus/aperture scales). |
The stiffness is coming from old grease, lubricant won't help (maybe a little for a few days but not on the long term).
I'd say that you really need to take apart the helicoid.
No need to unscrew the ring at the back of the optical block : remove the screw on the side of the lens, turn the focusing ring until the optical block "drops" (don't forget to mark the beginning of the helicoid, as I did ).
Clean everything with lighter fuel, re-grease lightly and re-assemble following Hasan's directives.
Mine is still a litlle stiff, the focusing marks are not aligned and it focuses past infinity but for now, I'm happy with it .
As said Hasan, time to take pictures with it |
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Milanos
Joined: 04 Feb 2009 Posts: 110 Location: Vlašim
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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Milanos wrote:
Well well well, everybody with this kind of Tessar must be burned, to became more clever. Following other members I dissasembled the Tessar and now I´m unable to get it together? I´m in the situation, that I have to screw on the lens the focusing ring and the ring with the screw in hole and I was working on it 5 hours without any result
I would like to ask hasan and Jieffe, if there would be some advice for me at which point I should start. Thank you |
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 5:02 pm Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
Milanos wrote: |
I would like to ask hasan and Jieffe, if there would be some advice for me at which point I should start. Thank you |
Well, Hasan's explanations worked for me (ok, the focusing ring is not correctly aligned and it focuses beyond infinity but I was so happy the lens was saved that I didn't dare to take it apart again).
Read and re-read his procedure and you should be able to reassemble the lens. |
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Milanos
Joined: 04 Feb 2009 Posts: 110 Location: Vlašim
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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Milanos wrote:
Well I know what Hasan exactly did, but there is one thing which is strange to me. He is mentioning that if You did not split the B1 and B2 parts You should be ok to do it. This is not my case - I split both pieces, but detailed study of the winding on both pieces is claiming that there is only one way both pieces fits together. Logically thinking I will re-assy this two pieces together and keep Hasan´s instruction, I´m able to put the thing together but only to half point and everything is stuck.
The question is, does the aperture value affects the possibility of re-assy? Does the mutual possition of B1 and B2 affects the way of mounting?
My understanding now is that I would rather try to put the C part into B2, then try to attach the B1 into this subassy and finaly mount it to A and try to fix with screw. I will keep you informed, as other members could sometime make the same mistake. |
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 7:42 pm Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
Milanos wrote: |
He is mentioning that if You did not split the B1 and B2 parts You should be ok to do it. |
Nope, I split B1 and B2 too (which probably caused the misalignment on reassembly)...
I'm not at home right now, I'll take a look tomorrow evening at the lens, because it's been a while since I tinkered with it and I don't remember well how I did it. |
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Milanos
Joined: 04 Feb 2009 Posts: 110 Location: Vlašim
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Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:05 am Post subject: |
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Milanos wrote:
Ok and I´m after another Tessar. I decided to buy another one check everything, MUST NOT TOUCH THE SCREW and will try to re-assy the original one. The better of those two will stay at home. I hope this will help all of us. |
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
Here we go !
Just to be sure of the feasability of the re-assembly, I dismantled again my Tessar.
1) put A on C
2) screw B1 and B2 together until the end, then unscrew 3 turns (3 turns worked for me)
3) Put A/C on the table (front end pointing down)
4) Make sure the aperture is on f2.8
5) Put B on AC making sure to align this :
with this :
6) Rotate anti-clockwise the focusing ring while making sure the lever is still aligned (you may need three hands )
7) It didn't work at the first time, be patient
8 ) When finally screwed until the end, align infinity symbol and tighten the little screw.
9) Go and get yourself a drink, you deserved it |
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Milanos
Joined: 04 Feb 2009 Posts: 110 Location: Vlašim
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Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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Milanos wrote:
In Czech republic we drink mostly Beer and now it is time to go for one:-))
I got it Jieffe, You are a master, at that time You would be the best operator standing on Tessar assembly line
Thank You very much once again.
Is this now able focus to infinity or it is going beyond? |
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:32 pm Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
Milanos wrote: |
In Czech republic we drink mostly Beer and now it is time to go for one:-)) |
Belgium is known for its finest beers
Quote: |
I got it Jieffe, You are a master, at that time You would be the best operator standing on Tessar assembly line |
I'm blushing Thanks !
Quote: |
Is this now able focus to infinity or it is going beyond? |
Mine still goes beyond, but no big deal .. our lenses are functionnal, that's what matters. |
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Milanos
Joined: 04 Feb 2009 Posts: 110 Location: Vlašim
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Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:15 am Post subject: |
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Milanos wrote:
I know few of them, I´m twice a year flying to Brussels and mainly Leffe Beer is very good. A little bit strong and sweet, but tastes ... |
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Arkku
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 1416 Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 1:43 am Post subject: |
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Arkku wrote:
Jieffe wrote: |
6) Rotate anti-clockwise the focusing ring while making sure the lever is still aligned (you may need three hands :wink:)
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I know this is an old thread, but I got one of these alu Tessars very cheaply because focusing was almost impossibly stiff, meaning I had to re-lube it completely. These instructions very extremely helpful in putting it back together.
A couple of observations in case anyone else struggles with the same lens:
– When B1 and B2 are put together, first screw them in all the way and then turn back at least one full turn so that the focus mark is at the minimum focus distance (0.5 meters). The infinity focus position is adjusted by unscrewing further than this.
– When you put A+C on the table (front element down), it's easy to screw B1+B2 on if you start from a position a bit clockwise of alignment, then turn counter-clockwise just enough to get it on the thread and aligned. After that hold B1+B2 completely still with your left hand, and turn the focusing ring with your right hand—third hand unnecessary. After a few attempts I find I can get it right on every attempt, which is very nice for tuning the infinity focus. |
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