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fermy
Joined: 17 Feb 2012 Posts: 1974
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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fermy wrote:
This looks defective to me. _________________ Many lenses and some film bodies for sale here: http://forum.mflenses.com/canon-fd-minolta-md-c-mounts-m42-pentax-and-more-t50465.html
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/96060788@N06/ |
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Grafomefos
Joined: 29 Mar 2013 Posts: 9 Location: Prague, Czech Republic
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:32 pm Post subject: |
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Grafomefos wrote:
fermy wrote: |
This looks defective to me. |
Thanks for your reply. What could the defect be? All the glasses are ok. I dismantled the lens and found nothing wrong what a shame, I heard so many good things about this lens. _________________ http://grafomefos.webnode.cz/fotogalerie/
MOG: Trioplan 50/2.9, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestegor 200/4, Primotar 135/3.5
CZJ: Flektogon 35/2.4, Tessar 50/2.8
Pentacon 135/2.8, Pentacon 50/1.8
Helios 44M-4 58/2 |
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D1N0
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 2539
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:49 pm Post subject: |
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D1N0 wrote:
Maybe the elements misaligned? Does the aperture still close? Do you use the hood? _________________ pentaxian |
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Grafomefos
Joined: 29 Mar 2013 Posts: 9 Location: Prague, Czech Republic
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 11:12 am Post subject: |
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Grafomefos wrote:
I tried to switch the elements, no change. The aperture is working fine, it is clean. Using the hood did not change the fogginess of the images. I really can´t think of anything that would cause such bad image quality. _________________ http://grafomefos.webnode.cz/fotogalerie/
MOG: Trioplan 50/2.9, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestegor 200/4, Primotar 135/3.5
CZJ: Flektogon 35/2.4, Tessar 50/2.8
Pentacon 135/2.8, Pentacon 50/1.8
Helios 44M-4 58/2 |
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D1N0
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 2539
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 11:28 am Post subject: |
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D1N0 wrote:
Must be a faulty copy then, or light leaks in somewhere. You could try to take a picture with the lenscap on in bright conditions. _________________ pentaxian |
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lucca1x
Joined: 09 Feb 2014 Posts: 93 Location: Romania
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Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 11:53 am Post subject: |
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lucca1x wrote:
I'm not an experienced lens repairman, but it could be a wrong reassembly (if glass is ok).
Was the same problem present before dissasembly too?
How does it perform at f5.6 ,f/8 different focusing distances ? |
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rappelbums
Joined: 07 Apr 2009 Posts: 13
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Posted: Wed May 14, 2014 9:57 pm Post subject: |
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rappelbums wrote:
Thanks for the guide! Just fixed the aperture of a tair, that arrived today |
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dankec
Joined: 27 Apr 2010 Posts: 2
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:25 am Post subject: |
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dankec wrote:
Maybe someone has an idea how to fix Tair 11a iris (20 blades)? It looks mostly the same like the one for Tair-3 with 4 more blades for which I don't know were/how to put them.
Please help. |
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Analog lex
Joined: 10 Nov 2013 Posts: 95 Location: East Europe
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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Analog lex wrote:
Thanks for that guide! I bought Tair-3fs close to mint for just 40$, but it have one skewed blade, and aperture won't close fully.
Ok, I did it.
Some tips for those who not realize it in first place(like me):
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Simply unscrew the 3 micro-screw(1) to loose it and then rotate it to remove (2).
After that remove the other miniscrew on the primary block(3). |
You must unscrew ALL miniscrew on main block(black painted) and one on focusing rail. They holds anti-reflection rings and aperture block. Be careful when unscrewing, do it very slowly! _________________ =-=Canon eos 1100D=-=Zenit-E=-=
[RMC Tokina 35-105 macro FD][CZJ Sonnar 135mm f4 Exa][Jupiter-11 135mm f4 (silver)M39][Helios 44m-6][Helios-44-2 2/58][Vega-11u m39][Industar-50u][Tair-3fs][Mir-1B 2,8/37 (ВОЗМ)] |
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