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Suggest simple test to verify zoom level on legacy 70-210mm
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 11:18 pm    Post subject: Suggest simple test to verify zoom level on legacy 70-210mm Reply with quote

Perhaps this is too basic a question but could someone suggest a simple test I can run to verify if my 70-210mm zooms correctly. It's sufficient if I can verify that at 210mm, I am getting the rated close-up.

Bird and moon-shots show up smaller than I expected at 210mm. Perhaps the samples I've found on the internet are cropped, and it's my expectations that are inflated but would be nice to run a quick experiment.

Thanks.


PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best way, probably, would be to set up a paper target with a known coverage markings for a 50mm lens (set your camera with a 50mm lens on a tripod and mark on the paper the edges of the visible image), and inside that mark calculated smaller boxes for your zooms focal lengths and see if it hits them.

On the whole though I don't think this is a very useful exercise.

You generally want a much longer FL than 210mm for satisfactory use on little birds (I'm assuming sparrow size?) and the moon, unless you can get quite close to the birds. Getting closer to the moon is a bit harder than that.

Rule of thumb - birds - 400mm+ and the more the better


PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

luisalegria wrote:
Best way, probably, would be to set up a paper target with a known coverage markings for a 50mm lens (set your camera with a 50mm lens on a tripod and mark on the paper the edges of the visible image), and inside that mark calculated smaller boxes for your zooms focal lengths and see if it hits them.

On the whole though I don't think this is a very useful exercise.

You generally want a much longer FL than 210mm for satisfactory use on little birds (I'm assuming sparrow size?) and the moon, unless you can get quite close to the birds. Getting closer to the moon is a bit harder than that.

Rule of thumb - birds - 400mm+ and the more the better


You are likely right...I think the somewhat monstrous appearance of this lens encouraged out-sized expectations on my behalf. Thanks for outlining the test.


PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bearing in mind luisalegria's comments, you might still be able to get there with what you have. If your 70-210 is good optic, like the old Vivitar Series 1 70-210 f/3.5 for example, you can probably obtain decent images if you use a good 2x teleconverter with the zoom. Of course, you'll lose two stops of light. So, the lens would be a 140-420 f/6.3 or so. Getting slow, but still usable in well-lit situations.

As for the moon, that will probably be a tougher call. If you're using a DSLR with a live view function, plus the 70-210 with a 2x, then you might be able to get the moon in focus well enough to produce a suitable image. The best way to find out is to try.


PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

luisalegria wrote:
Getting closer to the moon is a bit harder than that.


Made me chuckle Laughing Laughing Laughing


PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cooltouch wrote:
Bearing in mind luisalegria's comments, you might still be able to get there with what you have. If your 70-210 is good optic, like the old Vivitar Series 1 70-210 f/3.5 for example, you can probably obtain decent images if you use a good 2x teleconverter with the zoom. Of course, you'll lose two stops of light. So, the lens would be a 140-420 f/6.3 or so. Getting slow, but still usable in well-lit situations.

As for the moon, that will probably be a tougher call. If you're using a DSLR with a live view function, plus the 70-210 with a 2x, then you might be able to get the moon in focus well enough to produce a suitable image. The best way to find out is to try.


Thanks for the suggestion. The lens I am using is indeed a Vivitar series 1 70-210mm (version 1, Kiron) and has a Minolta mount. Can you recommend a good (inexpensive) 2x teleconverter?

Aside: I already am using the lens with a minolta-m43 adapter, so using a teleconverter would add a second layer between my camera and lens but theoretically should work, right?


PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

new_berlin wrote:

Can you recommend a good (inexpensive) 2x teleconverter?


All tokina or Kiron 7 elements made converters are ok : Tokina, Vivitar mc7 , kenko , foca hr7 ...

ALL primes (minolta...) converters are ok

new_berlin wrote:
Aside: I already am using the lens with a minolta-m43 adapter, so using a teleconverter would add a second layer between my camera and lens but theoretically should work, right?


Right because your adapter is glassless


PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

new_berlin wrote:

Thanks for the suggestion. The lens I am using is indeed a Vivitar series 1 70-210mm (version 1, Kiron) and has a Minolta mount. Can you recommend a good (inexpensive) 2x teleconverter?


My favorite is the Vivitar macro-focusing 7-element 2x. I have one in both Nikon AIs and Canon FD mounts, and have used them with great results for over 20 years.

You can probably pick up one in MD mount for cheap.


PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys for the suggestions.

With two of you recommending it, I started looking for a 7-element vivitar 2x converter...The pics show a longish teleconverter with a tube projecting out a few inches that leads me to wonder out loud whether it can really hold a lens as heavy as the Series-1 Vivitar 70-210? Assuming that it's strong enough, I am now concerned on whether the cheap Chinese m43 adapter I am using will hold up under the extra torque.

Just musing on here if someone has more thoughts, that's all.


PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 2:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Vivitar 2x macro teleconverter is a pretty big unit, as big as many 50mm lenses. It can definitely handle even the 1st version of the Vivitar S1 70-210, which was their biggest. As for the torque loading on your u4/3, I don't know, but I seriously doubt it would be a problem as long as everything is being held stationary. IOW, all bets are off if the rig is moving and suddenly changing directions as it's moving.

In real world usages, chances are that you will seldom move the Vivitar 2x macro's helical away from its infinity setting, which is retracted all the way in. A situation might arise where you'll run into a close-focus issue in which your lens doesn't focus quite as closely as you want, and then a bit of a turn of the 2x's helical can resolve this. Mostly, however, it is intended for use with lenses of focal lengths around 50mm for real macro extension work. Its markings for the macro helical even reflect this.


Last edited by cooltouch on Sat Apr 16, 2011 2:49 am; edited 3 times in total


PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 2:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't mount anything over 1kg without any supports. Better get a tripod mount on the adaptor or lens.


PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I often use lenses over 1Kg handheld.

The trick is to realize the light DSLR (mine are Pentax) is mounted on the heavy lens, not the lens mounted on the camera ! So you bear the weight as close to the center of gravity on the lens as you can, and just balance at the camera end.

The center of gravity, btw, is often not where the tripod mount is.

Tripods are a pain in the bottom. The best part of DSLR's with image stabilization like the Pentax is that you can much more easily handhold long lenses.


PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 3:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 luis

With big lens cannot hold camera like President Obama! Laughing http://forum.mflenses.com/big-smile-for-mr-president-t34436,highlight,%2Bpresident.html