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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011
Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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 Posted: Mon May 13, 2013 8:29 am Post subject: Stitching to simulate non-existing lenses |
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hoanpham wrote:
Stitching many photos to create a wider look may give some interesting 3D effect.
This stitching technique has been used for decades, but lately also known as Brenizer method.
#1 Stitching around 43 photos, taken by Carl Zeiss Planar 100mm f2.0 at f2.8 on Canon 5dm2.
A single frame is a half portrait. End result is 16x larger in size (4x4). According to Brett Maxwell's calculation (see note 1), the effective focal is 25mm at f0.7.
Click on photo for higher resolution.
Can a smaller aperture be used, like f4 on a 100mm lens? Yes I could, and the effective f-stop would be f1.0. In this case, f2.8 gives best coverage DOF of subject at shooting distance. However, the CZ 2/100 lens is capable f2.0 razor sharp and unchanged contrast.
#2 Another sample using Pentacon 135mm f2.8 Preset at f2.8 on Pentax K5 .
The scene is a stitch of 56 photos. 2 photos to cover full portrait length. Effective focal length is 27mm at f0.56 (see note 1).
Click on photo for higher resolution.
#3 Yet another sample using Canon fd 135mm f2 at f2 on sony nex5n.
A full portrait consists of 4 frames. 9 frames height, 7 frames wide, 10-20% overlapping, manual stitching, as auto stitching cannot complete.
Click on photo for higher resolution.
and a step closer:
(1) Note that for crop sensors, I have to have longer distance to subject to frame the same (half portrait) as on FF. That also results the bokeh is somewhat less blurred. The formula to calculate Brenizer may not give correct effective focal length on crop sensors. I haven't able to lookup a correct calculator for crop sensor.
http://brettmaxwellphoto.com/Brenizer-Method-Calculation
Enjoy.
Last edited by hoanpham on Mon May 13, 2013 9:39 am; edited 1 time in total |
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nurkov
Joined: 21 Feb 2013
Posts: 711
Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-03-09
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| Posted: Mon May 13, 2013 9:22 am Post subject: |
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nurkov wrote:
it does look amazingly good, dof is insane
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Minolta and Canon user |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5017
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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| Posted: Mon May 13, 2013 10:12 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
H'mm maybe we don't need a Contax\Zeiss lens for more 3d effect and a cheap lens would work 
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Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008
Posts: 16664
Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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| Posted: Mon May 13, 2013 11:05 am Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
Yep, a well known method to stitch and get shallow DOF.
very well executed and presented!
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"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
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Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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SonicScot
Joined: 01 Dec 2011
Posts: 2697
Location: Scottish Highlands
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| Posted: Mon May 13, 2013 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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SonicScot wrote:
It's a great method with stunning results when done well, you fall into that category. 
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Currently active gear....
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Carl Zeiss.... 180/2.8, 135/3.5, 85/1.4, 35/2.4 Flektagon, 21/2.8 Distagon
Nikon.... 55/3.5 micro, 50/1.2
Elicar 90/2.5 V-HQ Macro
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Helios.... 58/2 44-3
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Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/gazsus/ Website http://garianphotography.co.uk/ |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007
Posts: 10472
Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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| Posted: Mon May 13, 2013 4:28 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
nice demo with great results !
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 57865
Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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| Posted: Mon May 13, 2013 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Excellent hint and presentation , many thanks!
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enzodm
Joined: 11 Sep 2010
Posts: 350
Location: Italy
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| Posted: Mon May 13, 2013 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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enzodm wrote:
Nice explanation. Some further info on the practical method ? I.e., how to move the camera, and software used? Thanks.
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Canon 60D, Tamron 17-50VC, Canon 55-250IS, Sigma 50-150/2.8 plus:
Wide: Mir 20/3.5, Kenlock 24/2.8, Tamron 28/2.5, Yashikor 35/2.8, Mir 37/2.8
Fifties: Voigtländer Color Ultron 50/1.8, Pentacon 50/1.8, Zenitar 50/1.9, Leica Summicron 50/2, CZJ Pancolar 50/2, CZJ Tessar 50/2.8, Industar 50/3.5 , Rikenon 55/1.4, Petri 55/1.8, Helios 58/2
In the middle: Cyclop 85/1.5, Nikon 100/2.8
135s: Tamron 135/2.5, CZJ Sonnar 135/3.5, Jupiter 135/3.5, CZJ Triotar 135/4, Tamron Twin Tele 135-225
Tele: Soligor 200/2.8, Pentax Super Takumar 200/4, Hanimex 400/6.3, Makinon 500/8
Various: Schneider-Kreuznach Componar 135/4.5, Tominon 105/4.5, Vest Pocket Kodak meniscus, Wray Supar 2"/4.5
Sony Nex 6 plus:
Industar 69 28/2.8, Fujian 35/1.7, Rokkor 50/1.4, Jupiter 50/2, Cosmicar 50/2.8, Industar-22 50/3.5, Leitz Elmar 90/4, Canon Serenar 100/4
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hasan
Joined: 12 Mar 2007
Posts: 313
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| Posted: Mon May 13, 2013 9:52 pm Post subject: |
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hasan wrote:
I don't know whether it's the same processing but here you can find a way
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F50dXkIe25c |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011
Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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| Posted: Mon May 13, 2013 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
Thank you all.
There are many other sites explain the technique better than I can do.
In general, all setting set to manual: focus, shutter speed, f-stop, iso, wb etc.
Then 1-2 seconds to cover the full portrait by 2 (or 4) frames, depends on how many photos to compile.
After securing the portraits, then shot as many as needed to secure the surrounding of the subject, and then going outward.
A pattern on the floor or branches will act as aid lines when stitching.
Site and scene selection can also max out the bokeh effect.
If there are moving objects in background, shot many to filter out these objects, but try to avoid at first time (people, cars, dogs, birds)
Funny enough, my friends also said that they from now won't look to buy zeiss or fast lenses as
any good 100/2.8, 135/2.8 can do the same - perhaps we can find some cheap zeiss in the future?
There is not a requirement to use the lens wide open. As for most lenses, wide open is the weak spot of the lens.
A 85/1.2 is nice to own, but not required.
Think 'big size' - when a half-portrait covered with one frame, and the end result is 4x4 larger than the sensor, the portrait becomes a thumbnail.
I am not a fan of post processing, but sometimes it is needed, as end results are different from what are available.
'Mosaic photos' are resized to ~2000x3000 jpg 100% quality, with no alter in the process.
Blending one row at a time. Manual blending as needed. Then crop and adjust as a normal photo.
My 11yrs-old pc can render as good (2G ram, XP).
Two last samples are using my new pc: lots of ram, ssd, linux server as base os, virtual box, and several desktop/virtual pc on top, setup as 'sandboxes'.
Sounds complex, but free/open source, utilise almost 100% hardware and allows full freedom under controlled environment.
Some sites may be useful:
http://blog.buiphotos.com/2009/07/the-brenizer-method-explained-with-directions/
http://strobist.blogspot.no/2012/04/ryan-brenizers-panoramic-portraiture.html
http://www.ryanbrenizer.com/category/brenizer-method/
http://photographylife.com/advanced-photography-techniques-brenizer-method-panorama |
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enzodm
Joined: 11 Sep 2010
Posts: 350
Location: Italy
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| Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 10:32 am Post subject: |
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enzodm wrote:
thank you again, so, no tripod, just manual precision 
_________________
Canon 60D, Tamron 17-50VC, Canon 55-250IS, Sigma 50-150/2.8 plus:
Wide: Mir 20/3.5, Kenlock 24/2.8, Tamron 28/2.5, Yashikor 35/2.8, Mir 37/2.8
Fifties: Voigtländer Color Ultron 50/1.8, Pentacon 50/1.8, Zenitar 50/1.9, Leica Summicron 50/2, CZJ Pancolar 50/2, CZJ Tessar 50/2.8, Industar 50/3.5 , Rikenon 55/1.4, Petri 55/1.8, Helios 58/2
In the middle: Cyclop 85/1.5, Nikon 100/2.8
135s: Tamron 135/2.5, CZJ Sonnar 135/3.5, Jupiter 135/3.5, CZJ Triotar 135/4, Tamron Twin Tele 135-225
Tele: Soligor 200/2.8, Pentax Super Takumar 200/4, Hanimex 400/6.3, Makinon 500/8
Various: Schneider-Kreuznach Componar 135/4.5, Tominon 105/4.5, Vest Pocket Kodak meniscus, Wray Supar 2"/4.5
Sony Nex 6 plus:
Industar 69 28/2.8, Fujian 35/1.7, Rokkor 50/1.4, Jupiter 50/2, Cosmicar 50/2.8, Industar-22 50/3.5, Leitz Elmar 90/4, Canon Serenar 100/4
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buerokratiehasser
Joined: 12 Jun 2011
Posts: 470
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| Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 11:30 am Post subject: |
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buerokratiehasser wrote:
I dunno, isn't there a filter for that? Analyze frequencies and apply artificial blur, doen. |
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