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meanwhile
Joined: 29 May 2014 Posts: 225 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-11-28
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 9:42 pm Post subject: Sony A7II |
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meanwhile wrote:
Thought this might interest some here: Sony have just announced the A7II with 5-axis IBIS. Sounds to me like almost the perfect digital camera for adapted lens users.
http://www.sony.net/Products/di/en-gb/products/v6cd/index.html?contentsTop=1 _________________ In my bag: Sony A7II - Olympus OM 21mm f/3.5 - Minolta M-Rokkor 40mm f/2.0 - Konica Hexanon 57mm f/1.2 AR - Olympus Zuiko OM 100mm f/2.8 - Pentax 135mm f/3.5 |
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AstroZon
Joined: 13 Jul 2014 Posts: 172 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 10:08 pm Post subject: Re: Sony A7II |
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AstroZon wrote:
Nice camera! (Hang on, let me check last night's Powerball ticket... nope.)
I'm not 100% sure, but doesn't the IBIS image stabilization system require the use of AF lenses? _________________ My crazy Flickr group: Effected Cameras
https://www.flickr.com/groups/2538946@N23/ |
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meanwhile
Joined: 29 May 2014 Posts: 225 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-11-28
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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meanwhile wrote:
99% sure you can enter the current focal length as a setting. _________________ In my bag: Sony A7II - Olympus OM 21mm f/3.5 - Minolta M-Rokkor 40mm f/2.0 - Konica Hexanon 57mm f/1.2 AR - Olympus Zuiko OM 100mm f/2.8 - Pentax 135mm f/3.5 |
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Lightshow
Joined: 04 Nov 2011 Posts: 3666 Location: Calgary
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 10:37 pm Post subject: |
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Lightshow wrote:
Some systems require communication with the lens so it can optimize its settings, which would require a chipped adapter, this would not be a good thing for me if I desired IBIS for my collection of lenses.
Edit:
Looks like there is manual FL selection.
http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/5-axis-stabilization-works-with-all-third-party-lenses-leica-m-zeiss-zm-and-all-other-lenses-now-with-4-5-stops-stabilization/ _________________ A Manual Focus Junky...
One photographers junk lens is an artists favorite tool.
My lens list
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/ |
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fermy
Joined: 17 Feb 2012 Posts: 1974
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 10:53 pm Post subject: |
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fermy wrote:
Sony's implementation of IBIS almost certainly comes from Olympus (same buzzwords like 5-axis stabilization, recent cooperation between the two). If that's the case, then you just enter the lens focal length in the settings for IBIS to work. No communication between lens and body is necessary. _________________ Many lenses and some film bodies for sale here: http://forum.mflenses.com/canon-fd-minolta-md-c-mounts-m42-pentax-and-more-t50465.html
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/96060788@N06/ |
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Basilisk
Joined: 21 Mar 2013 Posts: 356 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:11 pm Post subject: |
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Basilisk wrote:
fermy wrote: |
Sony's implementation of IBIS almost certainly comes from Olympus (same buzzwords like 5-axis stabilization, recent cooperation between the two). If that's the case, then you just enter the lens focal length in the settings for IBIS to work. No communication between lens and body is necessary. |
Some are saying it a wholly new implementation of 5-axis stabilisation, though who knows.
It would be nice if you could have a number of preset lens settings, that you could programme in advance, that would give a bit more data in the EXIF - like setting up manual lenses on my D600. |
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nikono
Joined: 04 Nov 2014 Posts: 38
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 2:20 am Post subject: |
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nikono wrote:
I wonder if the 5-axis thing works for left handed photographer. |
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jonathandael
Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 17 Location: Australia
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 4:04 am Post subject: |
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jonathandael wrote:
awesome tech no doubt! however, with advancements in sensor technology, we can just bump up the ISO like on the A7s and still get
blur-free, clean images if necessary.
IBIS is good for stationary subjects and if one really needs insane slow-shutter stabilization, but once the subject moves, it will still get blurry.
another thing which i'm curious to know about is the effect of a pitch and yaw stabilisation. will it affect the image and give it a tilt/shift effect when a shot is made at a certain pitch angle? |
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clockwork247
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 79
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 5:10 am Post subject: |
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clockwork247 wrote:
jonathandael wrote: |
awesome tech no doubt! however, with advancements in sensor technology, we can just bump up the ISO like on the A7s and still get
blur-free, clean images if necessary.
IBIS is good for stationary subjects and if one really needs insane slow-shutter stabilization, but once the subject moves, it will still get blurry.
another thing which i'm curious to know about is the effect of a pitch and yaw stabilisation. will it affect the image and give it a tilt/shift effect when a shot is made at a certain pitch angle? |
IBIS is great, I've shot with and without IS (sony A900, canon with OS lens, sony NEX 6, nikon D600 with non OS lens). I thought I can get away without IS, but there's always a need for IS, yes it is true that while IS will get you a stable shot at 1/10 sec, it's pointless because your subject moves faster than that, however in the range of 1/50 sec, it's gold, you get much more keeper vs no IS, and even with the A7S crazy ISO, you'll still rather want to shoot at low ISO vs high. Meaning in low light situation you can still shoot at lower ISO which IMO is great (up to 2-3 stops lower ISO). |
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fermy
Joined: 17 Feb 2012 Posts: 1974
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 6:28 am Post subject: |
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fermy wrote:
Yes, it's pretty useful, whatever quality high ISO we have. Plenty of my shots are handheld tourist static shots at night at 1/10 with a normal lens. Then, there is always a story of a tele in autumn/winter. Without stabilization it pretty quickly gets into the range, where the quality drop with high ISO is obvious. Just imagine something like 500/f8 mirror on an unstabilized body. Ughh, shudder. _________________ Many lenses and some film bodies for sale here: http://forum.mflenses.com/canon-fd-minolta-md-c-mounts-m42-pentax-and-more-t50465.html
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/96060788@N06/ |
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caribou
Joined: 22 May 2011 Posts: 44 Location: France
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 8:16 am Post subject: |
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caribou wrote:
I'm a user of the 5 axes stabilisation with my E-P5 (and formerly E-M5), this is the main point for me to stay with Olympus... a FF camera with the same confort (not only to avoid blur but also for aim) would make me switching for Sony. |
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Langstrum
Joined: 16 Feb 2014 Posts: 351
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 11:59 am Post subject: |
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Langstrum wrote:
caribou wrote: |
I'm a user of the 5 axes stabilisation with my E-P5 (and formerly E-M5), this is the main point for me to stay with Olympus... a FF camera with the same confort (not only to avoid blur but also for aim) would make me switching for Sony. |
This is one good point that no one has ever mentioned. For the very accurate focus, especially with tele lenses, I always have to zoom the focus in, and the shaking screen is really annoying most of the time, now it can be much more comfortable and accurate. _________________
Camera: Sony A7 mark III, A6300
AF Lenses:
Canon EF 50/1.8; EF 200/2.8 L, EF 200/1.8 L, EF 300/4 L Sony E mount SEL 50/1.8 OSS, SEL 16/2.8 Fuji X mount XF 35/1.4 R
MF Lenses: Peleng MC 8/3.5, 17/2.8 Samyang 14/T3.1, 35/T1.5, TS 24/3.5 ED, 85/T1.5, Polar 85/1.4 Auto Revuenon 28/2.8; MC 50/1.4 Vega11U 50/2.8 Carl Zeiss Tessar 50/2.8 (exakta mount) Auto Chinon 50/1.9 Zenitar ME1 50/1.7 Sears Auto Sears 55/1.4; Sears 135/2.8 Auto Yashinon DX 50/1.4; Tomioka 50/1.2 SMC Pentax 50/1.7; 50/1.4 Canon FD 50/1.4 S.S.C; 55/1.2 S.S.C; FD 50/1.2 L; FD 85/1.2 L; 85/1.2 S.S.C Aspherical; FD 80-200/4 L 300/2.8 S.S.C Fluorite FD 300/2.8 L FD 200/1.8 LCosina-S 50/1.2 Helios Helios 44 Chrome f/22, 44-2, 44-3, 44M-4, 44M-7 (58/2), Helios-40 85/1.5 Jupiter Jupiter-9 85/2; Jupiter-37A 135/3.5; Jupiter-21M 200/4 Nikon Ai 105/2.5 Tairs-3S 300/4.5
Voigtlander 15/4.5 Aspherical; Ultron 35/1.7
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7583 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
Langstrum wrote: |
caribou wrote: |
I'm a user of the 5 axes stabilisation with my E-P5 (and formerly E-M5), this is the main point for me to stay with Olympus... a FF camera with the same confort (not only to avoid blur but also for aim) would make me switching for Sony. |
This is one good point that no one has ever mentioned. For the very accurate focus, especially with tele lenses, I always have to zoom the focus in, and the shaking screen is really annoying most of the time, now it can be much more comfortable and accurate. |
+1. I cannot focus a 500mm mirror lens when I zoom in on my NEX 5N. Even with my 300mm mirror, it is not very easy to focus it on the enlarged liveview. _________________ The best lens is the one you have with you.
https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/ |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008 Posts: 6622 Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 12:39 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
Will the EVF/screen show a stabilised image then? I thought you needed IS within the lens to do that, or is that more a DSLR thing? _________________ Graham - Moderator
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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Langstrum
Joined: 16 Feb 2014 Posts: 351
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 12:51 pm Post subject: |
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Langstrum wrote:
ManualFocus-G wrote: |
Will the EVF/screen show a stabilised image then? I thought you needed IS within the lens to do that, or is that more a DSLR thing? |
I'm sure it will, even though there is no such official announcement. It should work the same way as in Olympus camera that half pressing will trigger the IBIS. Basically when they can do stabilized video, the stabilized live view is just a consequent.
It will be pretty much similar to this:
http://asia.olympus-imaging.com/products/dslr/ep5/feature/04/ _________________
Camera: Sony A7 mark III, A6300
AF Lenses:
Canon EF 50/1.8; EF 200/2.8 L, EF 200/1.8 L, EF 300/4 L Sony E mount SEL 50/1.8 OSS, SEL 16/2.8 Fuji X mount XF 35/1.4 R
MF Lenses: Peleng MC 8/3.5, 17/2.8 Samyang 14/T3.1, 35/T1.5, TS 24/3.5 ED, 85/T1.5, Polar 85/1.4 Auto Revuenon 28/2.8; MC 50/1.4 Vega11U 50/2.8 Carl Zeiss Tessar 50/2.8 (exakta mount) Auto Chinon 50/1.9 Zenitar ME1 50/1.7 Sears Auto Sears 55/1.4; Sears 135/2.8 Auto Yashinon DX 50/1.4; Tomioka 50/1.2 SMC Pentax 50/1.7; 50/1.4 Canon FD 50/1.4 S.S.C; 55/1.2 S.S.C; FD 50/1.2 L; FD 85/1.2 L; 85/1.2 S.S.C Aspherical; FD 80-200/4 L 300/2.8 S.S.C Fluorite FD 300/2.8 L FD 200/1.8 LCosina-S 50/1.2 Helios Helios 44 Chrome f/22, 44-2, 44-3, 44M-4, 44M-7 (58/2), Helios-40 85/1.5 Jupiter Jupiter-9 85/2; Jupiter-37A 135/3.5; Jupiter-21M 200/4 Nikon Ai 105/2.5 Tairs-3S 300/4.5
Voigtlander 15/4.5 Aspherical; Ultron 35/1.7
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drjs
Joined: 25 Feb 2013 Posts: 484 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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drjs wrote:
ManualFocus-G wrote: |
Will the EVF/screen show a stabilised image then? I thought you needed IS within the lens to do that, or is that more a DSLR thing? |
I am sure it will since the output is grabbed directly from the sensor readout. I think this is a killer feature which may lead me to cash in my A7 and upgrade. _________________ Follow me on 500px |
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vlousada
Joined: 11 Dec 2010 Posts: 345 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 1:37 pm Post subject: |
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vlousada wrote:
The new feature is awesome for accurate focus and low speed-shutter.
(Hope that could work on manual focus lenses too... It should probably!
Also hope Sony really can do something with batteries, because this feature must affect eve more the BAD capacity of bateries...)
Even so, THIS MIGHT BE the best camera to have for manual lenses.
That's very good news!!
Although I want one new A7 II,
FROM NOW on I am BUYER of an used A7 (I) if prices are OK... _________________ Regards,
VITOR
-------
SELLING:
Please ask
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kuuan
Joined: 14 Jan 2008 Posts: 4569 Location: right now: Austria
Expire: 2014-12-26
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 1:49 pm Post subject: |
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kuuan wrote:
vlousada wrote: |
..
Even so, THIS MIGHT BE the best camera to have for manual lenses.
That's very good news!!
Although I want one new A7 II,
FROM NOW on I am BUYER of an used A7 (I) if prices are OK... |
haha, this is exactly how I think too. Wonder how many of us do, possibly that many that the price of the used A7 won't drop all that much _________________ my photos on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kuuan/collections |
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jonathandael
Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 17 Location: Australia
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 1:59 pm Post subject: |
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jonathandael wrote:
just as i suspected, battery life is worse than the a7s by 50 shots... 270 vs 320 via OVF. They should put 3 batteries in the box instead of 2. hehe.. |
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Langstrum
Joined: 16 Feb 2014 Posts: 351
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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Langstrum wrote:
jonathandael wrote: |
just as i suspected, battery life is worse than the a7s by 50 shots... 270 vs 320 via OVF. They should put 3 batteries in the box instead of 2. hehe.. |
Meike made a grip for A7 series that has the built-in wireless remote adapter, it can partly solve that problem and add more value to the camera. Some may say it's not reasonable to add the grip to a mirrorless camera, but I actually didn't buy them just because they're small, they're great performers. Even without the grip, I'm willing to carry 5, 6 batteries for this camera and a back-up NEX, they're still smaller than a 100mm lens _________________
Camera: Sony A7 mark III, A6300
AF Lenses:
Canon EF 50/1.8; EF 200/2.8 L, EF 200/1.8 L, EF 300/4 L Sony E mount SEL 50/1.8 OSS, SEL 16/2.8 Fuji X mount XF 35/1.4 R
MF Lenses: Peleng MC 8/3.5, 17/2.8 Samyang 14/T3.1, 35/T1.5, TS 24/3.5 ED, 85/T1.5, Polar 85/1.4 Auto Revuenon 28/2.8; MC 50/1.4 Vega11U 50/2.8 Carl Zeiss Tessar 50/2.8 (exakta mount) Auto Chinon 50/1.9 Zenitar ME1 50/1.7 Sears Auto Sears 55/1.4; Sears 135/2.8 Auto Yashinon DX 50/1.4; Tomioka 50/1.2 SMC Pentax 50/1.7; 50/1.4 Canon FD 50/1.4 S.S.C; 55/1.2 S.S.C; FD 50/1.2 L; FD 85/1.2 L; 85/1.2 S.S.C Aspherical; FD 80-200/4 L 300/2.8 S.S.C Fluorite FD 300/2.8 L FD 200/1.8 LCosina-S 50/1.2 Helios Helios 44 Chrome f/22, 44-2, 44-3, 44M-4, 44M-7 (58/2), Helios-40 85/1.5 Jupiter Jupiter-9 85/2; Jupiter-37A 135/3.5; Jupiter-21M 200/4 Nikon Ai 105/2.5 Tairs-3S 300/4.5
Voigtlander 15/4.5 Aspherical; Ultron 35/1.7
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kuuan
Joined: 14 Jan 2008 Posts: 4569 Location: right now: Austria
Expire: 2014-12-26
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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kuuan wrote:
if the poor battery life means that the battery is smaller and lighter I even prefer that to the other way around. In case I think one battery won't last I just take along another one or two, better than always carrying a heavier one inside the cam _________________ my photos on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kuuan/collections |
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Nordentro
Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Posts: 4713 Location: Lillehammer, Norway
Expire: 2015-01-29
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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Nordentro wrote:
We now have two threads about this! I don`t think this topic should be in the manual focus lenses category... _________________ Lars | Manuellfokus.no |
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Arctures
Joined: 10 Jul 2009 Posts: 295
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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Arctures wrote:
Battery life of course should be affected. However there is an excellent Meike grip exist with a shiny remote shutter allowing bulb operations by timer. It is kinda large though. Also stabilization system could possibly be switched off for high light situations. Anyway a really great cam coming! I'll wait for A9 to make an upgrade decision however. _________________ Sony A7, NEX-5n, Panasonic GH5(Oly12-40/2., Contax Distagon T* 28/2.8, Contax Planar T* 50/1.4, Contax T* 80-200/4,
Minolta Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Minolta MC Rokkor-X PF 50/1.7, Minolta MD 50/2.0, Konica Hexanon AR 50/1.8,
Konica Hexanon 57/1.4, Rokkor-PF 55/1.7, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Auto Yashinon 50/2.0, Canon FD 50/3.5
Voigtl�nder APO Lanthar 90/3.5 M42, Topcon RE.Topcor 58/1.8, Helios-44-2 58/2.0, Canon FD 24/2.8,
Canon FD 135/2.5 SC, Auto Topcor 135/3.5, Pentax SMC 55/1.8, Minolta 35/2.8, Minolta MD 35-70/3.5 |
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fermy
Joined: 17 Feb 2012 Posts: 1974
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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fermy wrote:
kuuan wrote: |
vlousada wrote: |
..
Even so, THIS MIGHT BE the best camera to have for manual lenses.
That's very good news!!
Although I want one new A7 II,
FROM NOW on I am BUYER of an used A7 (I) if prices are OK... |
haha, this is exactly how I think too. Wonder how many of us do, possibly that many that the price of the used A7 won't drop all that much |
I am a buyer of a used A7 II _________________ Many lenses and some film bodies for sale here: http://forum.mflenses.com/canon-fd-minolta-md-c-mounts-m42-pentax-and-more-t50465.html
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/96060788@N06/ |
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Gerald
Joined: 25 Mar 2014 Posts: 1196 Location: Brazil
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Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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Gerald wrote:
Langstrum wrote: |
caribou wrote: |
I'm a user of the 5 axes stabilisation with my E-P5 (and formerly E-M5), this is the main point for me to stay with Olympus... a FF camera with the same confort (not only to avoid blur but also for aim) would make me switching for Sony. |
This is one good point that no one has ever mentioned. For the very accurate focus, especially with tele lenses, I always have to zoom the focus in, and the shaking screen is really annoying most of the time, now it can be much more comfortable and accurate. |
I would not be so optimistic because I think IS only works at the moment the picture is taken, or video is being recorded. At least that's how the Sony A99 works. Keeping IS active all the time would spend much battery power and compromise the durability of the mechanism. _________________ If raindrops were perfect lenses, the rainbow did not exist. |
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