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salttram
Joined: 26 Oct 2011 Posts: 3
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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 7:07 pm Post subject: Series 1 Lens Stuck on Nikon FA . . . help |
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salttram wrote:
Ok, I've searched, Googled, twisted, and shaken . . . and still can't remove a lens from my wife's trusty FA. The lens is a Vivitar Series 1 90mm 2.5 Macro. The camera body was working fine just prior, and I had removed/replaced the lens several times the same day with no problems. As I was trying to remove the lens, it rotated partially (about 3/4") and then became locked in that position. The posts I've seen regarding this aren't helping.
Anyone have a special technique for this, or, a shop I can send it to that will be willing to tackle this? Thanks so much in advance for any replies. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11069 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Welcome salttram
Suggest camera repair shop unless somebody else knows.
Never heard of it before.
Could be aperture coupling is stuck? _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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SkedAddled
Joined: 19 Oct 2008 Posts: 1443 Location: Michigan, USA
Expire: 2021-08-12
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Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2018 11:02 pm Post subject: |
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SkedAddled wrote:
Could it be that a release-lever/button spring has died off?
Just specualation here; I have no knowledge of Nikon F cameras.
I hope you get it sorted out successfully,
and welcome to the forum. _________________ Craig
Of course I'm all right! Why? What have you heard!?
Canon Digital EOS 5D Mk IV, EOS 50D, Powershot S3 iS
Vivitar 28 f/2.8 OM - Zuiko 50 f/1.8 OM - Tamron SP 28-80 f/3.5 AD2[Favorite!] - Hanimar 135 f/3.5 M42 - Soligor 135 f/2.8 T4 - Tamron SP 60-300 f/3.8 AD2 - Soligor 75-260 f/4.5 M42 - Soligor 400 f/6.3 T4 - Soligor 500 f/8 T2 Cat + Matched 2X TC - Addiction Growing!
This is us -- We drive these -- We're named these |
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salttram
Joined: 26 Oct 2011 Posts: 3
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Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2018 12:10 am Post subject: |
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salttram wrote:
Thanks . . . I'll take another stab at it. I'm such a dedicated DIY-er . . . pains me to take it in. Thanks again . . . |
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hasan
Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Posts: 313
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 6:12 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Well no help sorry as I had a Nikon 301 and the non Nikon lens was stuck, so I decided the lens was worth more than the camera and used a hacksaw on the body to get at the release mechanism.....what did I learn? well the Nikon body was well made. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 3:05 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
If you've decided to go the repair shop route, and if you live in the US, I can recommend one. They do excellent work, they're fast, and reasonably priced. They repair both old and new stuff:
http://professionalcamerarepair.com/
I am in no way affiliated with Professional Camera Repair -- just a happy customer. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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Gardener
Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Posts: 950 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2018 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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Gardener wrote:
Are you sure you put it on correctly? I've recently bought a Nikon teleconverter which had a top cap jammed into the wrong slot, so I imagine it's not entirely impossible to do the same with a lens. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2018 3:02 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
It might be possible to jam a cap on wrong, but not a lens. The mounting lugs on the lens appear to be slightly asymmetrically spaced, so there's only one way for a lens to drop into place. I just tried this on a Nikon of mine, and it was not possible to get the lens mounted incorrectly.
There's a pin on the camera's mounting flange at the 3 o'clock position that drops into a slot cut into the lens's mounting flange. If you lens has an AI aperture ring, rotate it all the way anti-clockwise, then if you look there you can see the slot in the lens flange. I'm thinking that a repair shop may just have a tool they can fit down in there to lever the pin back so the lens can be removed. Or you might be able to make one out of some stiff shim stock. Other than that, I don't know what to suggest, short of ruining parts of the lens or the camera. Like using a zero-kerf metal sawblade to shim between the lens and the mount and cut the pin. Then you might be able to source the pin from any number of Nikon parts cameras, I'm thinking. Finding such a sawblade might be a feat all its own, though. Or a cut-off wheel. Micromark has several items that might work, if it comes to that. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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Gardener
Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Posts: 950 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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Gardener wrote:
So, it turns out I have a copy of this very same lens, and in my case it is missing a little stop on the mount. Why? I don't know. It could be that it was never there, or it worked itself out and got lost, or it could be some later alteration. In any case, without this stop the lens can slip too far counterclockwise when it's mounted and get stuck - something I quickly discovered when I put it on the camera. The only way to get it for me was to force it full circle, and yes, if you have a non-folding Ai tab it may break in the process. |
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salttram
Joined: 26 Oct 2011 Posts: 3
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Posted: Mon Jul 15, 2019 12:57 am Post subject: |
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salttram wrote:
Thanks so much for all the replies since I last checked. After giving up, I'm starting to give it another go.
Gardener's point is well taken, as I did turn the lens further counter-clockwise (wrong direction) in my attempts to remove it. I was able to determine via feeler gauge that the lens release is working, so I'm taking his advice to heart . . . just a little hesitant to crank it all the way around ccw. As it is now, I can't budge it in either direction, so am not sure even that can work. I suppose if I damage either (or both) mounting flange(s), it wouldn't be too expensive to replace them.
I'm going to try to drift it back cc with a pointed punch on that mounting groove as gently as possible, and will try Gardener's suggestion if all else fails.
I'm selling off my Nikon film gear, but am keeping certain lenses, as they hold up surprisingly well on a modern ff DSLR sensor. Thanks for keeping the F-mount alive (for now) Nikon!
Again, thank you all so much, and I'll post my results. |
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