Home

Please support mflenses.com if you need any graphic related work order it from us, click on above banner to order!

SearchSearch MemberlistMemberlist RegisterRegister ProfileProfile Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages Log inLog in

"Scanning" film with DSLR
View previous topic :: View next topic  


PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 10:19 pm    Post subject: "Scanning" film with DSLR Reply with quote

OK due to some embarrassing improvisation I have produced the following. The question is : What do I do with it from here?



PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First you have to change it from negative to positive - called inverting.



Most simple picture viewers can manage this. I did this with the free viewer Irfanview.

That's generally all you need to do with B&W negs. Colour film has a blueish colour cast as you can see, and a more powerful program is far better for correcting this. It took just one click using the Curves function in Photoshop. I use an old version - CS3.



PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

come on, what about searching a bit first? there are plenty of tutorials on net, UTFG Wink

http://www.computer-darkroom.com/tutorials/tutorial_6_1.htm


PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

berraneck wrote:
come on, what about searching a bit first? there are plenty of tutorials on net, UTFG Wink

http://www.computer-darkroom.com/tutorials/tutorial_6_1.htm


What's UTFG? I only know RTFM Wink
(PS You can use *** if you like!)


PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 1:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I kinda figured something out. It is in the other thread.


PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

peterqd wrote:
What's UTFG? I only know RTFM Wink
(PS You can use *** if you like!)


http://www.google.com/search?q=utfg

Very Happy

@adent: well done! hope you achieve some nice photos on film Wink


PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What does it say about my mind that I understood this before the looking at the link? Laughing


PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question about PP program that does 'layers': can a layer, made by scanning blank developed film, be used to accurately remove the color cast caused by film orange mask?


PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know about that but I found that if you use ACR you can use the white balance tool on the orange part near one of the sprocket holes and it removes it pretty good. Photograph a little extra part of the negative and crop later. Still have to do some work on the red, green, and blue channels in levels in photoshop but it turns out pretty good.


PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 2:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is how I have been doing it so far. Please keep in mine that I have not worked out a decent fixture for holding the negatives. I will try to improve on that part later. Also this negative is old and mistreated so not the best to start from. Just an experiment.

Original pic of negative (RAW) Circled area is where I used White balance tool.



This is after White Balance.



This is after inverting the image in Photoshop



This is after adjusting the colors.



After cropping image.



PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

visualopsins wrote:
Question about PP program that does 'layers': can a layer, made by scanning blank developed film, be used to accurately remove the color cast caused by film orange mask?

Firstly, a good scanning program will remove the colour cast automatically. Sometimes it needs adjusting, but not very often in my experience.

If you want to do it by hand in PP, yes you could make a separate layer for that and ensure you have both layers selected when you do the adjustments. But it's simpler to just include some blank film in the original scan area (the gap between frames is easiest) and use that for correction in the same layer and crop it out later.

@adent: If you're "scanning" with a DSLR then you have a RAW file to work on. If you scan it with a scanner you only have a JPG or a TIF file to work on. So I do it all in Photoshop using the Curves tool. It would save you having to load two programs if you did it that way. There are three different ways of adjusting cast and colour correction after you've inverted the image, all with just one click, using the thre sampler tools - white, black and the grey one in the centre. I almost always use the grey tool as I find it gives the best colour adjustment. This colour is adjusted with just one click with the grey tool on the bowl: