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nemesis101
Joined: 25 Mar 2008 Posts: 2050 Location: Oregon USA
Expire: 2015-01-22
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Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 8:10 am Post subject: 37800 |
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nemesis101 wrote:
Mine too!
Is this a good thing?
Doug.
peterqd wrote: |
Very nice indeed, Andreas. I think your lens is the same version as mine, does it have 37800 stamped on the back of the A-M switch? If so, this is the lens with the radioactive Thorium element. I've seen it written that Asahi knowingly sold this lens at a loss in order to out-shine the opposition. Whether this is true or not, the lens certainly deserves its reputation.
If you ever feel like cleaning it, here's a nice instruction article:
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~Srawhiti/pentax50mmf1.4.html
Lovely pictures from Japan, any more please? |
_________________ Lenses and cameras:
Amateurs worry about equipment
Pros worry about money,
Masters worry about light. |
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nemesis101
Joined: 25 Mar 2008 Posts: 2050 Location: Oregon USA
Expire: 2015-01-22
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Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 8:14 am Post subject: Hard to use Lumix PL-1 |
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nemesis101 wrote:
Yes I have a Tak as well.. the L1 has a bloody awful viewfinder, and I can often not see the green focus confirm, esp. as I wear specs... It would be better with a bigger viewfinder - I have few problems using the Tak on my K10D but it such a luxury when I put it on any of my 'Native' 35mm M42 bodies.. lovely (huge) screen and great split image focusing!
Doug
PS GREAT SHOTS I MEANT TO SAY!
peterm1 wrote: |
From my experience this SMC Takumar 50mm f1.4 lens has especially nice smooth bokeh when shot at wider apertures. I have had one for years - having originally shot it on my Spotmatic and then more recently I have resurrected it for use with an adapter on my Panasonic L1 where it turns in a nice picture (when I get the focus correct - unfortunately this is not as easy as it seems with this particular camera.) |
_________________ Lenses and cameras:
Amateurs worry about equipment
Pros worry about money,
Masters worry about light. |
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no-X
Joined: 19 Jul 2008 Posts: 2495 Location: Budejky, Czech Republic
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Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 6:28 pm Post subject: |
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no-X wrote:
Here are some examples from Super Takumar 50/1.4. I mostly use Super Multi Coated version, but even this older one is very very good
f/7.1
f/7.1
f/1.4
_________________ (almost) complete list of Helios lenses |
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orly_andico
Joined: 02 Jul 2008 Posts: 253 Location: Philippines
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 2:09 am Post subject: |
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orly_andico wrote:
I read in a 50mm comparo that the 50mm Super-Tak is considered extremely soft wide open "like having vaseline on the front element."
http://www.pbase.com/carpents/nls
That said, my copy is 37801 and has the very obvious yellow cast due to the thorium glass. I thought this could be corrected in post processing.
HOWEVER the cast causes quite a bit of light loss: on my K10D the 50/1.4 wide-open produces the same shutter speed/ISO combination as the SMC-A 50/2 so the yellow cast produces a 1-stop light loss! |
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no-X
Joined: 19 Jul 2008 Posts: 2495 Location: Budejky, Czech Republic
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 5:24 am Post subject: |
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no-X wrote:
The cause of the yellow cast is special optical glue (canada balsam oil), which is degradated by the radioactivity from the thoriated glass element. Tomioka used different optical glue for their later lenses (e.g. thorium Yashinon DS-M 50/1.4), which doesn't suffer from this problem.
Anyway, it can easily be reverted. I use 11W UV tube. One month under the tube removes more than 95% of entire color cast.
Before:
and after:
differences in weeks (crops: left: week 0, right: end of week 4. The lower line are crops from the center of the lens and the higher line are crops outside the lens - reference):
The older the lens, the darker cast. 4 weeks are sufficient for newer Super-Multi-Coated and SMC Takumars, but older Super Takumars may require a longer period of bleeching or stroger source of UV rays.
Anyway, 50/1.4 Takumars are way sharper at f/1.4, than 55/1.4 Revuenons, 50/1.4 Yashinons, 50/1.2 Yashinon and other lenses from Tomioka.
_________________ (almost) complete list of Helios lenses |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 5:34 am Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
No-X - On the UV process -
Excellent job of documenting progress !
A very convincing demonstration. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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orly_andico
Joined: 02 Jul 2008 Posts: 253 Location: Philippines
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 5:49 am Post subject: |
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orly_andico wrote:
no-X you're absolutely right! you should post that on a web site somewhere....
I was thinking of getting a black light (used for money detectors) but one month under a black light maybe if i have some sort of "light pipe" so that the entire output of the black light goes into the lens?
I assume sunlight would be much better as I live in the tropics and the solar constant is very high (1kW/sq m).. but it's typhoon season now. |
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yalcinaydin
Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 825 Location: Izmir, Turkey
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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yalcinaydin wrote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/72157606245448013/
My first shots of this baby was in a low light environment with ISO1600 and I used NEat Image to reduce noise and RAW calibration for colors, especially temp reduction to reduce the yellow color cast which was a lot due to the yellow walls and yellowish lighting of the restaurant. I know that someof you want untouched shots but these shots can give at least some idea abouth the bokeh
Every shot takes 5-10 seconds tof ocus and lens is wide open at f:1.4.
_________________ My name is "Yalcin", and exactly "Yalçın" and here you can find my MF samples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/
Right now switching back to AF because of work needs but I still love the MF lenses |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
I once was thrilled by my (Tomioka) Auto Revuenon 1.4/55, but now that I have a 1.4/50 Zuiko and a 1.4/50 Tak, I have sold my Revuenon.
"Der Bessere ist des Guten Feind!" (="Better is the enemy of good.") _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
I consider my Super Tak 1.4/50 is one of my very top lenses. I can't see a lot of difference with the CZJ Pancolar, and it definitely outshines my S-M-C Tak 1.8/55.
It was yellowed when it arrived and I cured it on the bathroom window cill. Here with our cloudy skies it took from November to March to completely clear, but I'm sure it would be a lot quicker in stronger sunlight. But I think it deserves a lot of patience - it took years to yellow so expecting it to clear in hours is unrealistic. Now it's clear I keep it in the transparent plastic case for the Mir-1V with the front cap off. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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orly_andico
Joined: 02 Jul 2008 Posts: 253 Location: Philippines
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 11:58 pm Post subject: |
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orly_andico wrote:
After reading this thread, I went out and bought a bug zapper bulb, which has really pitiful UV output but, by my calculations, should be comparable to direct sunlight.
Anyway I made a "light pipe" out of it and put my 50/1.4 Super-Tak inside. As of now (around 8 hours under the bug zapper bulb) I can already measure a difference in the color cast of the lens (based on histogram) -- the change in cast is actually not visible to the naked eye.
http://orlygoingthirty.blogspot.com/2008/07/radioactive-thorium-glass.html
I'm hoping that by tonight (after 20 hours of UV exposure) there should be a significant change. |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:15 am Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
...Now it's clear I keep it in the transparent plastic case for the Mir-1V with the front cap off. |
Exactly what I do. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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zewrak
Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Posts: 1212
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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zewrak wrote:
Awaiting my first 50/1.4 that is yellowed I was thinking. What about them UV leds? Would a vast amount of them inside a reflector aimed into the lens be enough? (we are getting to the point where we have 4 hours of light per day).
I am thinking about putting 50 or so leds on a stainless steel plate or chromed even which I would weld to a cone of reflective material. At the narrow end of the cone I would make a 42x1 thread and simply screw the lens into it. The whole device would be lightproof and all the UV light should be either directly or by bouncing directed out thru the lens via the back lens.
What do you think of that DIY? :p _________________ My homepage, all manual shots |
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zewrak
Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Posts: 1212
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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zewrak wrote:
I updated my own Idea with using a set of old bellows. _________________ My homepage, all manual shots |
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montecarlo
Joined: 04 Apr 2007 Posts: 1865 Location: Romania
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 5:46 pm Post subject: |
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montecarlo wrote:
Many congratulations Andreas for the shots. _________________ Canonet QL17 III
Zenit E , Helios-44 58mm f:2.0 , Tair-11A 135mm f:2.8, Jupiter-9 85mm f:2.0,
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35mm f:2.4
Pentax MX, ME Super, Chinon CE4/CM4, Petri MC 28mm f:2, smc Pentax-M 50mm f:1.7, Soligor T 135mm f:2.8
Minolta X500, Tokina 28/2.8, Rokkor 50/1.7, 80-205/4.5
Nikon D90, Nikkor 35/2.0, Nikkor 50/1.8, Sigma 24/2.8, Nikkor 18-105 VR |
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zewrak
Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Posts: 1212
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 6:28 pm Post subject: |
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zewrak wrote:
What wavelength of the light should one try to have? UV-A or UV-B? UV-C is out of the question I guess.
Ive been looking at using UV-A 380-395 at 2000mcd, 50 of them leds pointing straight into the lens. Any math/light geek that could translate that into usable information? Would that be enough to light it for a few weeks? _________________ My homepage, all manual shots |
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no-X
Joined: 19 Jul 2008 Posts: 2495 Location: Budejky, Czech Republic
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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no-X wrote:
Hard to say. I would just try and take a comparative shot every week. You'll see
Two shots by Su-Mu-Co Takumar 50/1.4
_________________ (almost) complete list of Helios lenses |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Beautiful shoots! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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yalcinaydin
Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 825 Location: Izmir, Turkey
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 9:41 pm Post subject: |
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yalcinaydin wrote:
Use b&w and don't worry about the color cast
I had taken this shot for here, you can check the biggest file to see how this lens performs:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/2728993595/sizes/o/ _________________ My name is "Yalcin", and exactly "Yalçın" and here you can find my MF samples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/
Right now switching back to AF because of work needs but I still love the MF lenses |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 9:59 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Very nice advertise for Takumars! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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yalcinaydin
Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 825 Location: Izmir, Turkey
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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yalcinaydin wrote:
Attila wrote: |
Very nice advertise for Takumars! |
I'm using the caps of my MF lenses to assist in focusing as my both eyes are suffering from myopia and astigmatism at the same time _________________ My name is "Yalcin", and exactly "Yalçın" and here you can find my MF samples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/
Right now switching back to AF because of work needs but I still love the MF lenses |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
_________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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zewrak
Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Posts: 1212
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:14 pm Post subject: |
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zewrak wrote:
Well, the colourcast I dont care about. But I understand its almost a stop darker then it should be :p _________________ My homepage, all manual shots |
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dakoo
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 603
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 11:37 pm Post subject: Re: Kyoto |
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dakoo wrote:
kuuan wrote: |
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Thats a nice shot ! |
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yalcinaydin
Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 825 Location: Izmir, Turkey
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 6:22 am Post subject: |
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yalcinaydin wrote:
zewrak wrote: |
Well, the colourcast I dont care about. But I understand its almost a stop darker then it should be :p |
Yes you're right, I'm still in the phase of learning to use my new (old full Manual Sunpak 422D) flash. For these shots I've made a home made diffuser from A4 white sheet and this one is the test shot as you can tell from the cap on the eye. Full manual lens + Full manual flash + camera on Manual mode (Canon's M) = I need time to get use to it
This one is the best of the series but it has PS touch on the skin:
Full size:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/2728817981/sizes/o/in/photostream/ _________________ My name is "Yalcin", and exactly "Yalçın" and here you can find my MF samples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/
Right now switching back to AF because of work needs but I still love the MF lenses |
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