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Mos6502
Joined: 20 Jun 2011 Posts: 960 Location: Austin
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 2:18 pm Post subject: |
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Mos6502 wrote:
Pardon my ignorance, but what it the benefit of using two lenses together, front to front, over say extension tubes and reverser ring? |
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FluffPuppy
Joined: 11 Dec 2011 Posts: 365
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 2:53 pm Post subject: |
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FluffPuppy wrote:
There was a 12.5mm Photar from Leitz, I believe. I don't see that in your table.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/29526-REG/Leica_14440_12_5mm_f_2_4_Photar_Lens.html
And here they are for sale:
http://www.jacobsdigital.co.uk/p-44983-jacobs-digital-leica-125-mm-f24-photar.aspx |
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Nordentro
Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Posts: 4711 Location: Lillehammer, Norway
Expire: 2015-01-29
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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Nordentro wrote:
WolverineX wrote: |
i mean, that for my macro needs coupling ring is just enough and my funds will go for a new PEN camera that's about to be announced |
me too, I'm waiting for a new Pen to replace my E-p1 _________________ Lars | Manuellfokus.no |
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RioRico
Joined: 12 Mar 2010 Posts: 1120 Location: California or Guatemala or somewhere
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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RioRico wrote:
Mos6502 wrote: |
Pardon my ignorance, but what it the benefit of using two lenses together, front to front, over say extension tubes and reverser ring? |
1: Knowing the precise magnification. With both lenses focused to infinity, magnification is the ratio of primary to secondary. Reverse-stacking a 35mm onto a 105mm gives (pretty) precisely 3:1.
2: Compactness. Stacking a 24mm onto a 105mm tele is shorter than reversing that 24 onto 130mm of extension. My SuperTak 105/2.8 is 60mm deep. That makes the combo 70mm shorter.
3: Less gear to haul around. Assuming both the camera-mounted primary tele and the reverse-stacked secondary shorter lens are normally in your kit, you needn't also carry bellows and tubes.
4: Related to #3 -- Improvisation. If you have the primary and secondary on hand, and no other hardware, they can be joined with gaffer's tape. No extra gear is necessary! (Avoid electrical tape.)
There is no benefit with light transmission. Both methods eat light. To avoid light loss, use a high-dioptre closeup achromat on a longish lens. By some calculations, such adapters actually INCREASE the available light. If you must reverse-stack, be sure to leave the primary's iris wide-open, and control the explsure with the secondary's aperture. _________________ Too many film+digi cams+lenses, oh my -- Pentax K20D, K-1000, M42s, more
The simple truth is this: There are no neutral photographs. --F-Stop Fitzgerald |
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FluffPuppy
Joined: 11 Dec 2011 Posts: 365
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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FluffPuppy wrote:
Because of the asymmetry of fast normal lenses, reversing them improves their performance over using them in the normal orientation. This still, though, does not bring their performance up to that of special macro lenses. The greater the magnification, the greater the difference in the quality of results. |
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WolverineX
Joined: 19 Apr 2009 Posts: 1693 Location: Zagreb , Croatia , Europe
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:42 pm Post subject: |
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WolverineX wrote:
Nordentro wrote: |
WolverineX wrote: |
i mean, that for my macro needs coupling ring is just enough and my funds will go for a new PEN camera that's about to be announced |
me too, I'm waiting for a new Pen to replace my E-p1 |
according to rumors it should be announced in couple of weeks, be weathersealed and have integrated viewfinder, and be better than e-p3 _________________ my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash
http://forum.mflenses.com/wolverinex-testing-my-lenses-series-link-list-t39524.html |
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WolverineX
Joined: 19 Apr 2009 Posts: 1693 Location: Zagreb , Croatia , Europe
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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WolverineX wrote:
RioRico wrote: |
If you must reverse-stack, be sure to leave the primary's iris wide-open, and control the explsure with the secondary's aperture. |
good tip, thanx _________________ my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash
http://forum.mflenses.com/wolverinex-testing-my-lenses-series-link-list-t39524.html |
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jjphoto
Joined: 17 Mar 2009 Posts: 407
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 10:56 pm Post subject: |
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jjphoto wrote:
kds315* wrote: |
Get one of the TOMINON special macro bellows lenses, there come in 17/35/50/75/105/135mm focal length and can be had for a song. Need a M40-M42 (or M39) ring, available on ebay. That sets you back about $50. Data is on my macrolenses.de site. |
I've seen them described as repro and enlarging lenses. Why do you call them macro lenses specifically? Where they intended for that purpose or just as repro lenses for the Polaroid?
JJ |
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RioRico
Joined: 12 Mar 2010 Posts: 1120 Location: California or Guatemala or somewhere
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Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:18 pm Post subject: |
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RioRico wrote:
jjphoto wrote: |
kds315* wrote: |
Get one of the TOMINON special macro bellows lenses, |
I've seen them described as repro and enlarging lenses. Why do you call them macro lenses specifically? |
IMHO anything that's edge-to-edge flatfield-sharp close-up can be considered a macro lens. _________________ Too many film+digi cams+lenses, oh my -- Pentax K20D, K-1000, M42s, more
The simple truth is this: There are no neutral photographs. --F-Stop Fitzgerald |
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