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marcusBMG
Joined: 07 Dec 2012 Posts: 1318 Location: Conwy N Wales
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Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 4:30 pm Post subject: |
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marcusBMG wrote:
Given the dull light and f11 - what were your shutter speeds Steve? IME I am continually surprised at how vibration/shake can sneak in! _________________ pentax ME super (retired)
Pentax K3-ii; pentax K-S2; Samsung NX 20; Lumix G1 + adapters;
Adaptall collection (proliferating!) inc 200-500mm 31A, 300mm f2.8, 400mm f4.
Primes: takumar 55mm; smc 28mm, 50mm; kino/komine 28mm f2's, helios 58mm, Tamron Nestar 400mm, novoflex 400mm, Vivitar 135mm close focus, 105mm macro; Jupiter 11A; CZJ 135mm.
A classic zoom or two: VS1 (komine), Kiron Zoomlock... |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 4039 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 11:20 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
marcusBMG wrote: |
Given the dull light and f11 - what were your shutter speeds Steve? IME I am continually surprised at how vibration/shake can sneak in! |
I'm very well aware about that issue. The electronic 1st shutter of the A7II or the fully electronic shutter of the A7RII have solved these problems completely when working indoors (no wind!). And yes, I have been working indoors taking theses shoots. Besides this, the air turbulences were immediately visible in the viewfinder when looking at the enlarged live-view image for focusing!
On very rare occasions the smearings and turbulences are next to nil (also visible in the viewfinder at full magnification). On such days the images taken with the 2.8/400 L or with the T-Noflexar have a spectacular amount of detail. Same is true for indoor images I've been taking e. g. in Italian churches (frescoes 30 meters up on the ceiling). Those lenses combined with the electronic shutter and a stable carbon Tripod (Manfrotto MT 057C3) will provide excellent detail resolution - provided the air is calm and clear.
S _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11027 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 11:43 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
stevemark wrote: |
marcusBMG wrote: |
Given the dull light and f11 - what were your shutter speeds Steve? IME I am continually surprised at how vibration/shake can sneak in! |
I'm very well aware about that issue. The electronic 1st shutter of the A7II or the fully electronic shutter of the A7RII have solved these problems completely when working indoors (no wind!). And yes, I have been working indoors taking theses shoots. Besides this, the air turbulences were immediately visible in the viewfinder when looking at the enlarged live-view image for focusing!
On very rare occasions the smearings and turbulences are next to nil (also visible in the viewfinder at full magnification). On such days the images taken with the 2.8/400 L or with the T-Noflexar have a spectacular amount of detail. Same is true for indoor images I've been taking e. g. in Italian churches (frescoes 30 meters up on the ceiling). Those lenses combined with the electronic shutter and a stable carbon Tripod (Manfrotto MT 057C3) will provide excellent detail resolution - provided the air is calm and clear.
S |
Indoors massive foundations contribute to stability too. Reminded of lengths some amateur astronomers go to for stability, massive foundations, a fence around the observatory to keep people and pets from walking too close(!), etc.. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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gaeger
Joined: 16 Jan 2010 Posts: 722 Location: Brier, Wash.
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2021 5:50 am Post subject: |
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gaeger wrote:
A vote for the Tokina-built 400mm f6.3 T4 lenses. These are with one Vivitar and one Soligor on a D300. I paid less than $50 for each of them, though that was a while ago.
_________________ "Here's to the wonder" -- Alan Boyle
Nikkor/Nikon 20, 24, 28, 35, 50, 55, 85, 105, 135, 180, 200, 300, 10-20, 18-35, 18-55, 28-50, 28-70, 24-85, 35-200, 50-300, 75-150, 80-200, 70-210, 70-300, 200-500
Minolta Rokkor 24, 28, 35, 45, 50, 58, 100, 135, 50-135, 300
My most interesting images | Full photostream
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lumens pixel
Joined: 27 Feb 2019 Posts: 883
Expire: 2021-06-25
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Posted: Sun Mar 21, 2021 10:28 am Post subject: |
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lumens pixel wrote:
That DHC 2 Beaver is impressive. _________________ Lumens Pixel
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Minolta SR mount: 16 2,8; Sigma SuperWide 24 2,8; 28 2,5; 28 2,8; 28 3,5; 35 2,8; 45 2,0; 50 1,4; 50 1,7; 50 2,0; 58 1,4; 85 2,0; 100 2,5; 100 4 Macro; 135 3,5; 135 2,8; 200 4; RF 250 5,6; 24-35 3,5; 35-70 3,5; 75-150 4; 70-210 4
Canon FD mount: Tokina RMC 17 3,5; 28 2,8; 35 2,8; 50 1,8; 50 3,5 Macro; 55 1,2; 135 3,5; 135 2,5; 200 4,0; 300 5,6; 28-55 3,5 4,5; Tokina SZ-X SD 270; 70-150 4,5; 70-210 f4; 80-200 4L; Tokina SZ-X 845
Tamron Adaptall: 28-80 3,5-4,2 (27A); 70-210 3,8-4 (46A); 60-300 (23A); 90 2,5 (52B); 35-135 3,5-4,5 (40A)
Tamron SP: 20-40 2,7-3,5 (266D) |
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018 Posts: 1266
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Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2021 7:37 am Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
stevemark wrote: |
As promised yesterday, I've been looking at few 300mm lenses, using the 24 MP APS-C Sony A6000:
* Nikkor-H 4.5/300mm
* Nikkor Ai 4.5/300mm ED (non-IF)
* Minolta AF 4.5-5.6/75-300mm (I) "Big Beercan"
* Tamron SP 3.8-5.4/60-300mm
* Vivitar (Tokina) 5.6/300mm
Here are the 100% crops from the center (cropped JPGs directly out of the A6000):
(AS USUAL PLEASE CLICK TWICE ON THE IMAGE TO GET THE ORIGINAL RESOLUTION)
It's remarkable how well the Nikkor Ai 4.5/300mm ED (non-IF) performs. When it came to market, it was probably the best 300mm lens for 35mm SLRs available, maybe along with the Canon FD 2.8/300mm Fluorite. On 24MP APS-C it simply is flawless. The Nikkor-H 4.5/300mm is nearly as sharp, but has much more CAs - both lateral and longitudinal. Surprisingly well behaving is the "Big Beercan" Minolta AF 4.5-5.6/75-300mm (I). At currently about CHF (USD/EUR) 30.-- is certainly is quite underrated, especially since the entire barrel is made of metal, and since focusing is super smooth. The well respected Tamron SP 3.8-5.4/60-300mm has a bit more CAs and stronger astigmatism than the Minolta zoom. Finally the Vivitar (Tokina made) 5.6/300mm: Slightly disppointing, especially in the center where I simply couldn't get a decent resolution.
Corner crops will follow.
S |
Hi Stevemark, I'm looking at the ED version but ain't easy to find in europe , but I do find easier the AF ED nikkor 300 f4 IF, do you know how would this version work on sony a7 II ,and would I need to buy a different adapter than the Nik AI - Sony ? I understand this version it's an improved ED AI? |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 4039 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2021 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
kiddo wrote: |
Hi Stevemark, I'm looking at the ED version but ain't easy to find in europe , but I do find easier the AF ED nikkor 300 f4 IF, do you know how would this version work on sony a7 II ,and would I need to buy a different adapter than the Nik AI - Sony ? I understand this version it's an improved ED AI? |
The Nikkor 4.5/300mm ED (non-IF) is very difficult to find. I've seen it only once during the last ten or fifteen years, and I immediatly bought it. I have no idea about the prformance of the AF ED Nikkor 300 f4 IF, but i assume it to be better than the earlier Nikkor 4.5/300mm ED-IF. Whether it is better than the non-ED version is anoter question.
I have tested current AF lenses such as the Canon EF 5.6/400mm L or the Canon EF 2.8/400mm L II. Their color correction is much better than that of the previous nFD lenses 4.5/400mm and 2.8/400mm L.
Try to find a AF Nikkor 4/300mm, check it out and report your findings!
S _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2021 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
I still haven't found a better cheap 300mm than the good old Tair-3 4.5/300.
It's big and heavy, but performs very well indeed.
My current most often used 300mm lens is a Docter Optics Doctarlux projector lens that I adapted to use on a camera. There are a few excellent 250, 280 and 300mm projector lenses such as the Doctarlux and Doctaron, several ISCOs (also commonly seen with Meridian and Kodak brandings), several Leitz/Leicas and the Golden Navitars. If you can live without an iris, for the very small sums they are available for, they are huge bargains. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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connloyalist
Joined: 22 Jul 2020 Posts: 345 Location: the Netherlands
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Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2021 8:32 am Post subject: |
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connloyalist wrote:
My two cents.
I have acquired a Tokina "Tele-Auto" 400mm 6.3 in OM mount which I like very much. I also have a preset Tokina 300mm 5.5 in M42 mount under the Hanimex brand which by its appearance is essentially the same as the 400mm. Also a very nice lens. The later tele-auto version of the Tokina 300mm 5.5 is a different set up (it is shorter and heavier). My results with the (older) preset 300mm are better than with the tele-auto 300mm.
Regards, Christine |
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