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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:20 pm Post subject: On FD Lens - Question |
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my_photography wrote:
I only have 1 FD lens and was just testing out when I realised the diagram does not change when I change the aperture. Is this normal for FD lens? _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
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marty
Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy
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Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:35 pm Post subject: |
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marty wrote:
Hi. there. No fear, that's normal behavior. When dismounted from the camera the iris usually stays half way closed, opens up all the way when mounted and closes to the selected aperture during the release cycle then goes back full open at the end of the exposure.
Edit: the adapter takes usually care of locking the mechanism so it's manually operable.
Cheers, M. _________________ Canon FD
Bodies: AT-1, A-1, T-90
Lenses: nFD 20mm f2.8, 24 f2.8, 28 f2.8, 35 f2, FD 50 f1.8 S.C., 85 f1.8, 100 f2.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4, 300 f4
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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:53 pm Post subject: |
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my_photography wrote:
Any method to see the iris movement when the lens is dismounted from the camera? _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
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joy division
Joined: 20 Dec 2011 Posts: 59 Location: bay area, california
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Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:57 pm Post subject: |
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joy division wrote:
on the backside of the lens, you should see a flange. if you push it against the tension of the spring, you can see the aperture blades close if you don't have the aperture wide open. _________________ flickr? |
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koji
Joined: 21 Jul 2008 Posts: 2106 Location: Hiroshima, Japan
Expire: 2012-12-27
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Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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koji wrote:
Or you can use a Canon FD lens rear cap, you can see the iris can close when you rotate its aperture ring.
(When you go to the used lens shop in Japan, they supply a lens rear cap with a big hole in its bottom, so that
you can inspect iris movement easily. The rear cap press two metal things on the lens to release the aperture lock,
I think Canon "over-engineered" FD mount.) _________________ Our Home Page has 18,200 photos in 575 directories today.
Lenses: https://www.pbase.com/kkawakami/top_level_my_lenses |
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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 10:06 am Post subject: |
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my_photography wrote:
joy division wrote: |
on the backside of the lens, you should see a flange. if you push it against the tension of the spring, you can see the aperture blades close if you don't have the aperture wide open. |
Unfortunately, I am not able to find it. There are two flanges, one I can push and it move freely, the other is very tight and can only be pushed a bit. The blades do not change when I push either.
koji wrote: |
Or you can use a Canon FD lens rear cap, you can see the iris can close when you rotate its aperture ring. |
The cap thing should work; only if I have a FD cap. _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
Last edited by my_photography on Sat Feb 04, 2012 12:05 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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scsambrook
Joined: 29 Mar 2009 Posts: 2167 Location: Glasgow Scotland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 10:12 am Post subject: |
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scsambrook wrote:
Sounds as though you may have the later style of FD lens which doesn't have the rotating breech-locking ring. If so, joy division's suggestion wont actually work. A rear cap will do the trick though. _________________ Stephen
Equipment: Pentax DSLR for casual shooting, Lumix G1 and Fuji XE-1 for playing with old lenses, and Leica M8 because I still like the optical rangefinder system. |
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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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my_photography wrote:
I am in the process of getting a FD lens. So I asked the seller to test the lens with the back cap since he does not have a FD Canon. I asked him to screw on and screw off the lens on the cap to see the movement of the diaphragm. Here is the answer I got: "with the back cap, the diaphragm move a little bit when i put on or off the cap. But there s not a real change when i turn the ring of diaphragm." Should I be worry? Is there anything wrong with the lens? _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
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koji
Joined: 21 Jul 2008 Posts: 2106 Location: Hiroshima, Japan
Expire: 2012-12-27
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Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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koji wrote:
Probably not (to worry or a bad lens).
When a rear cap is on, AND then you have to move the taller aperture linkage back and force
after setting higher f-stop (wide open wont change anything). There are two aperture linkage
bars behind the lens, you have to move the taller one, shorter one wont move anyway.
So your rear cap must have a big opening or the lens should be mounted one of those
FD->E adapter or FD->m4/3 adapter which have opening.
So checking FD lens at the store front is not easy thing unless you have FD camera or a special
rear cap.
According to your corresponding guys's description, the lens might be totally OK. But the above
method is a sure thing. _________________ Our Home Page has 18,200 photos in 575 directories today.
Lenses: https://www.pbase.com/kkawakami/top_level_my_lenses |
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