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jito
Joined: 29 Nov 2011
Posts: 113
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 Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 7:25 pm Post subject: OM Zuiko 50mm f1.8 |
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jito wrote:
Here's some trash I shot with the zuiko. It's the only 50mm lens I have. Composition on the first picture is poor but I really like how it picked up vivid colors and a nice contrast on this particular shot.
Considering the light conditions I'm happy with the color rendition of this lens. It was during the morning but the sunlight was too bright and coming from a a very low angle. I took the jupiter 37a with me too and didn't manage to take any proper shots due to excessive flare.
Pictures are straight out of the camera, shot in jpeg - I don't really shoot raw.
Last edited by jito on Sun Jan 01, 2012 7:54 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008
Posts: 6622
Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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| Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 7:27 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
Jito, please resize to 1024px wide or upload using the mflenses upload picture tool.
Images look really nice BTW, junk can be interesting 
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Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
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Smoli4
Joined: 01 Jul 2011
Posts: 606
Location: Haifa, Israel
Expire: 2013-06-07
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| Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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Smoli4 wrote:
i really like the first one, i once passed on a 50 1.8 because i have several 50's, what are your thoughts about this lens, since its you only 50 you should know it well  |
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jito
Joined: 29 Nov 2011
Posts: 113
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| Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 8:52 pm Post subject: |
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jito wrote:
| Smoli4 wrote: |
| i really like the first one, i once passed on a 50 1.8 because i have several 50's, what are your thoughts about this lens, since its you only 50 you should know it well |
Not so fast, I'm a beginner. I bought this lens as a replacement for the canon 18-55 kit lens which I find extremely boring. To that purpose it worked fairly well, but the main difference is still the aperture. At 50mm the canon can only open up to 5.6 which is dramatically different than 1.8. So no possible fair comparison here.
Bokeh is nice, not to creamy not to messy, and the darker tones are slightly pale. These characteristics give it a very 35mm era character. Being 30 years old, I like that because of nostalgic reasons.
That said, I'm curious about how it would compare with other 50mm. I'm considering buying the canon eos 50mm 1.8 because of the autofocus. |
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fuzzywuzzy
Joined: 18 Dec 2010
Posts: 1258
Location: Down East, Canada, eh?
Expire: 2013-11-30
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| Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:41 am Post subject: |
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fuzzywuzzy wrote:
| jito wrote: |
| Smoli4 wrote: |
| i really like the first one, i once passed on a 50 1.8 because i have several 50's, what are your thoughts about this lens, since its you only 50 you should know it well |
Not so fast, I'm a beginner. I bought this lens as a replacement for the canon 18-55 kit lens which I find extremely boring. To that purpose it worked fairly well, but the main difference is still the aperture. At 50mm the canon can only open up to 5.6 which is dramatically different than 1.8. So no possible fair comparison here.
Bokeh is nice, not to creamy not to messy, and the darker tones are slightly pale. These characteristics give it a very 35mm era character. Being 30 years old, I like that because of nostalgic reasons.
That said, I'm curious about how it would compare with other 50mm. I'm considering buying the canon eos 50mm 1.8 because of the autofocus. |
The Canon 50/1.8 is great for the price. It's lightweight, sharp, pretty fast, and has AF.
The downside is cheap plastic construction and the bokeh can be ugly.
The resale value of these "plastic fantastic" lenses seems pretty high, at least on the Canadian Ebay they go for 3/4 or more of the retail price.
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I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
~~~~~~~~~
CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8, Mir 20M
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8
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jito
Joined: 29 Nov 2011
Posts: 113
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 6:58 pm Post subject: |
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jito wrote:
I went for a walk during dusk to try this lens in low light conditions.
The result was a disappointing failure. Bur I'm not sure how much is the lens' fault. I couldn't get sharp pictures under these conditions. And I notice that the the focus ring stops beyond infinite, this might be the adapters fault.
I don't like to post portraits online, but to be fair, when I get the focus right this lens delivers razor sharp portraits from f2.8 up. Taking this lens for a walk is a whole other story. In either case, my copy is soft wide open.
Either way, here go some samples.
The infinite is just to far away to take this kind of shots. I guess I need a wider lens, or at least one with a closer infinite. I'm open to suggestions to such lenses under the el cheapo price range. |
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Ivan Lee
Joined: 03 Feb 2008
Posts: 230
Location: Rio de Janeiro - Brazil
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 10:28 pm Post subject: |
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Ivan Lee wrote:
What sample is yours? I have the "made in japan" version that is suposed to be the best one. My sample at least is very good wide-open, and insanelly sharp stoped down
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Ivan Lee Barcellos - Director of Photography
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Sony A7s
Lumix GH3
Minolta MC: Minolta MC 24/2.8 - Minolta MD 28/2 - Minolta MC 35/1.8 - Minolta MC 35/2.8 - Minolta MD 50/1.2 - Minolta MD Macro 50/3.5 - Minolta MD 100/2.5
Konica AR: Hexanon 28/3.5 - Hexanon 50/1.7 - Hexanon 57/1.4
M42: Industar 50-2 - CZ Pancolar 50/1.8
Olympus OM: Zuiko Auto-Macro 50/3.5 - Vivitar 28/2 Close Focus |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5017
Location: UK
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 11:01 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Well I have two Oly 50mms f1.8 and one is the "made in Japan" on the front dust cover....I can't see the difference but both are very good lenses on film esp for close up. Most of the nifty fifty's from the big names are VG and I would think it was pointless comparing say Canon, Pentax, Olympus, Minolta, Nikon and some others unless the 50mm was something special.
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Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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jito
Joined: 29 Nov 2011
Posts: 113
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| Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 11:38 pm Post subject: |
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jito wrote:
Mine is one of those that says 'made in japan'.
It's not terribly soft, but is not as sharp wide open as stopped down. Don't know if many lenses are though. I'm a sucker for sharpness and contrast. Not so much for fancy bokehs, lack of distortion/falloff/ vignetting, etc. So maybe my expectations are not realistic.
The problem with these pictures is probably not the lens. My technique and the light conditions were not the best. But I'm still curious about what could be done under such conditions. Will walk the same walk with other lenses to compare. Sorry Excalibur, I'm very skeptical and still new to photography.
What would you guys recommend to get better shots under such light conditions? Those tree branches have very much detail. ISO 800's noise level was starting to render them blurry. |
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Ivan Lee
Joined: 03 Feb 2008
Posts: 230
Location: Rio de Janeiro - Brazil
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| Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 1:06 am Post subject: |
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Ivan Lee wrote:
| Excalibur wrote: |
| Well I have two Oly 50mms f1.8 and one is the "made in Japan" on the front dust cover....I can't see the difference but both are very good lenses on film esp for close up. Most of the nifty fifty's from the big names are VG and I would think it was pointless comparing say Canon, Pentax, Olympus, Minolta, Nikon and some others unless the 50mm was something special. |
Yeah, they can be very good in the sharpness department, I think there is no such "soft 50mm", but no lens in equal to each other when you're comparing the rendering or bokeh for example.
_________________
Ivan Lee Barcellos - Director of Photography
www.planoconjunto.com.br
Sony A7s
Lumix GH3
Minolta MC: Minolta MC 24/2.8 - Minolta MD 28/2 - Minolta MC 35/1.8 - Minolta MC 35/2.8 - Minolta MD 50/1.2 - Minolta MD Macro 50/3.5 - Minolta MD 100/2.5
Konica AR: Hexanon 28/3.5 - Hexanon 50/1.7 - Hexanon 57/1.4
M42: Industar 50-2 - CZ Pancolar 50/1.8
Olympus OM: Zuiko Auto-Macro 50/3.5 - Vivitar 28/2 Close Focus |
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mfkita
Joined: 29 Jul 2007
Posts: 222
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| Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:44 am Post subject: |
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mfkita wrote:
Glad you like it...I have one too...it's nice...
A word.....there is no such thing as Straight Out Of Camera (SOOC)....to imply that YOU did nothing to the image....
There are so many in-camera JPEG settings (sharpness, contrast, saturation, white balance), that without identifying them it is not possible to understand what the camera has done to the scene...this is also true for RAW images....if you want to establish a baseline of comparisons...
Also, when you resize the image for posting on the net the software reduces the sharpness requiring resharpening of the image...
I thought you might like to know...
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I favor the simple shot...and uncomplicated technology that won't distract me from seeing it...
NIKON D610, Canon 30D/450D/s90/A570is: Canon 35/2, 50/1.8 MKI, 18-55IS, 28-105/3.5-4.5, 70-210/3.5-4.5; MF Nikkors 50/2K, 50/1.4AIS, 60/2.8 Micro, 85/1.8-K (AI'd), 135/2.8K, 135/2.8Q.C, 180/2.8ED, 200/4Q (AI-cut), 200/4AIS, 300/4.5-H (AI'd), Olympus 24/2.8, Vivitar 28/2, Vivitar S1 70-210/3.5 and S1 28-90;Tamron sp90/2.5; (and 28-85 AF nikkor), 35mm Nikon F, FM, FE2/MD12 drive |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5017
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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| Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:08 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
| Ivan Lee wrote: |
| Excalibur wrote: |
| Well I have two Oly 50mms f1.8 and one is the "made in Japan" on the front dust cover....I can't see the difference but both are very good lenses on film esp for close up. Most of the nifty fifty's from the big names are VG and I would think it was pointless comparing say Canon, Pentax, Olympus, Minolta, Nikon and some others unless the 50mm was something special. |
Yeah, they can be very good in the sharpness department, I think there is no such "soft 50mm", but no lens in equal to each other when you're comparing the rendering or bokeh for example. |
True, but first things first:- the OP is unhappy about the sharpness of his shots
_________________
Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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darkblue
Joined: 07 Jun 2011
Posts: 2
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| Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 7:26 pm Post subject: |
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darkblue wrote:
Nice trash shots!
| Quote: |
| I'm curious about how it would compare with other 50mm. I'm considering buying the canon eos 50mm 1.8 because of the autofocus. |
I have the same lens ("made in Japan") and it is a bit soft wide open indeed. There is purple fringe and general lack of micro contrast (like a tiny glow all over the image), but both are gone at 2.8 where the lens is as good as any other I guess. Compared to the EF 50 1.8 lens - they make very similar image wide open, the Canon has less purple fringe but has the same sharpness and gives a little green tint to the image. Compared to the Helios-44 58mm both the Canon and Zuiko are much better in the edges, but the Helios is sharper and more contrasty in the center and with better colors. The edges of the Helios are really really soft on crop sensor so if you want sharpness all across the frame, then the Helios is not good either.
BTW, I'm also a beginner, but just sharing some first hand experience. I'm also looking for a better 50 at about 1.8, no need for AF though, only with a great IQ wide open, corner to corner, on APS-C. Maybe a Pancolar or Planar, because trying all the standard lenses from the past (Pentax, Nikkor and cheaper) may just end up being a waste of time and money, if it's true that they're all the same... |
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Riku
Joined: 23 May 2007
Posts: 1059
Location: Finland
Expire: 2017-04-30
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| Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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Riku wrote:
| jito wrote: |
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Looks like southern Finland... Am I right? |
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John Poirier
Joined: 24 Aug 2010
Posts: 11
Location: Gabriola Island, British Columbia
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| Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:56 am Post subject: |
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John Poirier wrote:
| jito wrote: |
Mine is one of those that says 'made in japan'.
It's not terribly soft, but is not as sharp wide open as stopped down. Don't know if many lenses are though. I'm a sucker for sharpness and contrast. Not so much for fancy bokehs, lack of distortion/falloff/ vignetting, etc. So maybe my expectations are not realistic.
The problem with these pictures is probably not the lens. My technique and the light conditions were not the best. But I'm still curious about what could be done under such conditions. Will walk the same walk with other lenses to compare. Sorry Excalibur, I'm very skeptical and still new to photography.
What would you guys recommend to get better shots under such light conditions? Those tree branches have very much detail. ISO 800's noise level was starting to render them blurry. |
Use of a tripod helps considerably.
Lenses do tend to be much sharper stopped down than wide open. When a lens is stopped down, you also get greater depth of field, which increases apparent sharpness. Unless there is a requirement for high shutter speeds, for example to capture moving people, stop down and use a tripod. Otherwise you will not get sharp pictures.
Looks to me like some of the trees may have been moving in the wind- can't do much about that! |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008
Posts: 6622
Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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| Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 1:30 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
The last one is suffering camera shake, if it helps to understand the lens' performance. The 1/50 second shutter speed isn't enough handheld on your crop sensor Canon EOS. For a good chance of a shake free shot you will need to use the following formula:
(Focal length * sensor crop factor)
In this case = 50 * 1.6 = 80 = 1/80th second.
_________________
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Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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jito
Joined: 29 Nov 2011
Posts: 113
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| Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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jito wrote:
Riku, almost, it's in sweden, near by IKEA's birthplace in the Smaland region.
Thank you all for the tips.
I looked at the lens today, I was wrong. It doesn't say 'made in japan', it only says japan in the front along with the specs. It appears that the best ones say 'made in japan' near the mount. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5017
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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| Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
| jito wrote: |
I looked at the lens today, I was wrong. It doesn't say 'made in japan', it only says japan in the front along with the specs. It appears that the best ones say 'made in japan' near the mount. |
Anyone confirm this as one of mine doesn't mention the word "Japan" on the dust cover in the front, but "made in Japan" near the lens mount...the other lens says "made in Japan" on the dust cover on the front but only "Japan" near the lens mount. 
_________________
Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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FluffPuppy
Joined: 11 Dec 2011
Posts: 365
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| Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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FluffPuppy wrote:
| Excalibur wrote: |
| jito wrote: |
I looked at the lens today, I was wrong. It doesn't say 'made in japan', it only says japan in the front along with the specs. It appears that the best ones say 'made in japan' near the mount. |
Anyone confirm this as one of mine doesn't mention the word "Japan" on the dust cover in the front, but "made in Japan" near the lens mount...the other lens says "made in Japan" on the dust cover on the front but only "Japan" near the lens mount. |
The site of production should have no bearing on the quality of the lens. It seems hard to believe so much enthusiasm can be generated over a basic normal lens. LOL
We all know such lenses are quite decent; no surprise there. |
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RioRico
Joined: 12 Mar 2010
Posts: 1120
Location: California or Guatemala or somewhere
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| Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:06 pm Post subject: |
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RioRico wrote:
| ManualFocus-G wrote: |
The last one is suffering camera shake, if it helps to understand the lens' performance. The 1/50 second shutter speed isn't enough handheld on your crop sensor Canon EOS. For a good chance of a shake free shot you will need to use the following formula:
(Focal length * sensor crop factor)
In this case = 50 * 1.6 = 80 = 1/80th second. |
That might suffice for 'acceptable' handheld shots. For SHARP shots, use a much faster shutter, at least 5x (2.3 stops) the formula results. So minimum shutter for a 50mm lens would be 1/(FL*CF*5)= 1/(50*1.6*5)= 1/400 second.
What's my basis? In Ansel Adams' THE CAMERA he writes of using a 50mm lens on a 135/FF camera handheld with the 1/FL rule, shooting at 1/50 second, but did NOT get SHARP shots until he got to 1/250 second. Apply the 1.6x CF and we're at 1/400 as calculated.
This ROT (rule of thumb) applies to non-stabilized optics. With a Pentax or Sony dSLRs' IBIS (in-body image stabilization) those 2.3 stops are regained and the 1/(FL*CF) ROT can be used for SHARP images.
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The simple truth is this: There are no neutral photographs. --F-Stop Fitzgerald |
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FluffPuppy
Joined: 11 Dec 2011
Posts: 365
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| Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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FluffPuppy wrote:
| RioRico wrote: |
| ManualFocus-G wrote: |
The last one is suffering camera shake, if it helps to understand the lens' performance. The 1/50 second shutter speed isn't enough handheld on your crop sensor Canon EOS. For a good chance of a shake free shot you will need to use the following formula:
(Focal length * sensor crop factor)
In this case = 50 * 1.6 = 80 = 1/80th second. |
That might suffice for 'acceptable' handheld shots. For SHARP shots, use a much faster shutter, at least 5x (2.3 stops) the formula results. So minimum shutter for a 50mm lens would be 1/(FL*CF*5)= 1/(50*1.6*5)= 1/400 second.
What's my basis? In Ansel Adams' THE CAMERA he writes of using a 50mm lens on a 135/FF camera handheld with the 1/FL rule, shooting at 1/50 second, but did NOT get SHARP shots until he got to 1/250 second. Apply the 1.6x CF and we're at 1/400 as calculated.
This ROT (rule of thumb) applies to non-stabilized optics. With a Pentax or Sony dSLRs' IBIS (in-body image stabilization) those 2.3 stops are regained and the 1/(FL*CF) ROT can be used for SHARP images. |
Nonsense. It depends on the skill of the user. Adams doesn't know what he is talking about there. |
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Ymmot
Joined: 24 Sep 2011
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:37 pm Post subject: |
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Ymmot wrote:
@Fluffpuppy: it has nothing to do with location as all were fabricated in Japan, it is more like the several Leica versions of (to non Leica adepts at least ) 'same' lens design were everyone gets anal about which performs better for that matter.
Supposedly there are a lot of varieties, this link list most if you can read German:
http://olypedia.de/Zuiko_Auto-S_1:1%2C8/50_mm
Also there is a nice explanation here (I dont know if they both fully correspond):
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1022&message=39980182&q=zuiko+50mm&qf=m
I personally have a 5mil serial with 'made in Japan' on the front (no 'MC' notation), and 'japan' and serial near the mount.
Also a 3mil serial with 'japan' and 'MC' on the front, and serial near the mount.
The german link gives the most basic 'tells' for which version you have when you compare the notation (Silver nose or not, F.Zuiko or just Zuiko, MC or no MC on the front). |
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FluffPuppy
Joined: 11 Dec 2011
Posts: 365
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| Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:43 pm Post subject: |
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FluffPuppy wrote:
| Ymmot wrote: |
@Fluffpuppy: it has nothing to do with location as all were fabricated in Japan, it is more like the several Leica versions of (to non Leica adepts at least ) 'same' lens design were everyone gets anal about which performs better for that matter.
Supposedly there are a lot of varieties, this link list most if you can read German:
http://olypedia.de/Zuiko_Auto-S_1:1%2C8/50_mm
Also there is a nice explanation here (I dont know if they both fully correspond):
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1022&message=39980182&q=zuiko+50mm&qf=m
I personally have a 5mil serial with 'made in Japan' on the front (no 'MC' notation), and 'japan' and serial near the mount.
Also a 3mil serial with 'japan' and 'MC' on the front, and serial near the mount.
The german link gives the most basic 'tells' for which version you have when you compare the notation (Silver nose or not, F.Zuiko or just Zuiko, MC or no MC on the front). |
We're talking about a basic normal lens here. Of course there were minor variants; most camera companies adopted multi-coating at some time in the 1970s, but so far as I know, other than that I doubt there were any significant changes to this basic design. Leica has manufactured lenses in Canada and Germany since right after WWII. It meant nothing, though some confused souls thought it did.
Last edited by FluffPuppy on Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:50 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Ymmot
Joined: 24 Sep 2011
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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Ymmot wrote:
Actually there are, the first versions with F.Zuiko on the front had a different optical scheme: 6 elements, 5 groups, while the later MC versions had 6 elements and 4 groups.
Also the MC supposedly changed in the course of the years and changes were supposedly made in the aperture mechanism for reliability as can be seen in my other link. |
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FluffPuppy
Joined: 11 Dec 2011
Posts: 365
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| Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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FluffPuppy wrote:
| Ymmot wrote: |
Actually there are, the first versions with F.Zuiko on the front had a different optical scheme: 6 elements, 5 groups, while the later MC versions had 6 elements and 4 groups.
Also the MC supposedly changed in the course of the years and changes were supposedly made in the aperture mechanism for reliability as can be seen in my other link. |
OK, as I said "I doubt there were significant changes"...so it would be a matter of interpretation as to "significance".
Do you mean this link?
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/shared/zuiko/htmls/50mm1a.htm
A lot of these sorts of changes are made with cost considerations foremost. After all, a normal lens is not a high-profit item. |
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