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jamaeolus
Joined: 19 Mar 2014 Posts: 2971 Location: Eugene
Expire: 2015-08-20
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Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2023 3:39 am Post subject: |
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jamaeolus wrote:
Very impressive. _________________ photos are moments frozen in time |
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simple.joy
Joined: 30 May 2022 Posts: 646
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Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2023 7:49 am Post subject: |
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simple.joy wrote:
_________________ ---
Manual lens enthusiast
https://www.flickr.com/photos/simple_joy/ |
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Ernst Dinkla
Joined: 30 Nov 2016 Posts: 410
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Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2023 9:26 am Post subject: |
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Ernst Dinkla wrote:
calvin83 wrote: |
Ernst Dinkla wrote: |
1" - 25,4mm C-mount thread has a pitch 1/32" if I recall it correctly. This kind of shutter rear thread is 25mm 0,5mm pitch. The difference may be enough to create issues. |
There is exact adapter available. Click here to see on Ebay |
And a wider range: https://customphototools.com/enlarger-lens-adapters/
Never used them though. I usually 3D print a piece that has a 25mm hole and covers the rear and edge of the salvaged lens and fasten it with the original retaining ring. M39 thread added on the design where a 39mm-M42 thread sleeve is turned on with some glue. _________________ Met vriendelijke groet, Ernst
http://www.pigment-print.com/spectralplots/spectrumviz_1.htm
March 2017 update, 750+ inkjet media white spectral plots |
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blotafton
Joined: 08 Aug 2013 Posts: 1636 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2023 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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blotafton wrote:
Nice shots everyone! I want in on this |
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br.sigit
Joined: 29 Oct 2010 Posts: 38 Location: Indonesia
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Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2024 2:29 am Post subject: |
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br.sigit wrote:
Hello. Very nice result. Is this in apsc?
I did conversion to e-mount and i use my A7. There's vignet if i use full frame format _________________ Cameras: Sony NEX 3N, Contax RTS II, M3, Bessa R2
Lenses: German and Japanese
Looking for: Pentacon 100/2.8 (front glass), Biotar 75 (front glass and aperture blades) |
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010 Posts: 4060 Location: Charleston
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Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2024 4:15 am Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
br.sigit wrote: |
Hello. Very nice result. Is this in apsc?
I did conversion to e-mount and i use my A7. There's vignet if i use full frame format |
Yes, a small amount and somewhat dependent on focus distance. _________________ Regards,
Woodrim |
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simple.joy
Joined: 30 May 2022 Posts: 646
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Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2024 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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simple.joy wrote:
br.sigit wrote: |
Hello. Very nice result. Is this in apsc?
I did conversion to e-mount and i use my A7. There's vignet if i use full frame format |
I don't think the vignetting is significant (with the 40 mm f/1.8 on a Canon EOS R5, in my case) at infinity, but perhaps I'm not the best to judge that, as I'll certainly won't use that lens to take landscape shots. I would expect it to have a significant amount of distortion. Made a quick testshot today and stopped down (to around f/11) it's not even as bad in terms of corner performance, as I would have expected though...
Anyways, here's what I use (and love) it for:
Is there a point to all this noise? by simple.joy, on Flickr
You think that makes you an artist? by simple.joy, on Flickr
Free Redical by simple.joy, on Flickr
C what I did there? by simple.joy, on Flickr
Interconnected by simple.joy, on Flickr
_________________ ---
Manual lens enthusiast
https://www.flickr.com/photos/simple_joy/ |
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jamaeolus
Joined: 19 Mar 2014 Posts: 2971 Location: Eugene
Expire: 2015-08-20
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Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2024 12:02 am Post subject: |
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jamaeolus wrote:
_________________ photos are moments frozen in time |
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kmcsmart
Joined: 11 Jun 2021 Posts: 4 Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2024 12:11 pm Post subject: Re: Okaya Highkor 40mm f1.8 lens |
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kmcsmart wrote:
[quote="kymarto"][quote="nightstreet"]
kymarto wrote: |
The lens, I am told, screws directly into a C mount to M42 adapter ring, and that can be screwed directly into a 12-19mm M42 helicoid. Even if that is not the case, you can use the retaining ring that holds it on the camera body to secure it to a M42 flat ring. Disabling the shutter is a bit more of an issue, but if you are interested I can describe what I did. |
I would love to hear how you disabled the shutter on the Highkor 40/1.8.
I have taken the lens apart to this point. It doesn’t look like a straight forward issue to jam the shutter open. After cocking the shutter by twisting the shaft shown below I can hold the shutter open in Bulb mode by moving the other lever forward but I don’t see a quick way to jam the lever in that position. I guess I would need to glue something in that outside channel.
I would love to remove the shutter blades but they are very close to the aperture blades. Even with the aperture open I worry that ripping the blades out with force may damage the mounting point of the aperture blades even when they are tucked away.
Dismantling the lens further seems like the best option but that looks like it has to happen from the rear of the lens and it means I need to take the aperture blades out first which is never much fun. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Karen
Back of the lens
Front of the lens
_________________ Karen |
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010 Posts: 4060 Location: Charleston
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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2024 4:51 pm Post subject: Re: Okaya Highkor 40mm f1.8 lens |
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woodrim wrote:
[quote="kmcsmart"][quote="kymarto"]
nightstreet wrote: |
kymarto wrote: |
The lens, I am told, screws directly into a C mount to M42 adapter ring, and that can be screwed directly into a 12-19mm M42 helicoid. Even if that is not the case, you can use the retaining ring that holds it on the camera body to secure it to a M42 flat ring. Disabling the shutter is a bit more of an issue, but if you are interested I can describe what I did. |
I would love to hear how you disabled the shutter on the Highkor 40/1.8.
I have taken the lens apart to this point. It doesn’t look like a straight forward issue to jam the shutter open. After cocking the shutter by twisting the shaft shown below I can hold the shutter open in Bulb mode by moving the other lever forward but I don’t see a quick way to jam the lever in that position. I guess I would need to glue something in that outside channel.
I would love to remove the shutter blades but they are very close to the aperture blades. Even with the aperture open I worry that ripping the blades out with force may damage the mounting point of the aperture blades even when they are tucked away.
Dismantling the lens further seems like the best option but that looks like it has to happen from the rear of the lens and it means I need to take the aperture blades out first which is never much fun. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Karen
Back of the lens
Front of the lens
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I wedged a small piece of wood to hold the shutter blades open, then put a dab of glue to secure it further. It appears you have a bigger issue with the rear element. I hope it cleans well. _________________ Regards,
Woodrim |
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kmcsmart
Joined: 11 Jun 2021 Posts: 4 Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2024 5:21 pm Post subject: Re: Okaya Highkor 40mm f1.8 lens |
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kmcsmart wrote:
woodrim wrote: |
I wedged a small piece of wood to hold the shutter blades open, then put a dab of glue to secure it further. It appears you have a bigger issue with the rear element. I hope it cleans well. |
Glad to know that gluing a piece of wood in place holds well. I was worried that a wedge might work its way loose over time . The rear element is actually in pristine shape. I had to drop acetone on the lens retention ring to get it to move and I took that picture as soon as I got the lens out of the camera before I cleaned it up. The camera I bought was in rough shape but the lens elements are surprisingly clean. It’s always so nice when that happens. Buying the camera was a bit of a gamble but also very cheap. _________________ Karen |
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woodrim
Joined: 14 Jan 2010 Posts: 4060 Location: Charleston
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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2024 8:11 pm Post subject: Re: Okaya Highkor 40mm f1.8 lens |
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woodrim wrote:
kmcsmart wrote: |
woodrim wrote: |
I wedged a small piece of wood to hold the shutter blades open, then put a dab of glue to secure it further. It appears you have a bigger issue with the rear element. I hope it cleans well. |
Glad to know that gluing a piece of wood in place holds well. I was worried that a wedge might work its way loose over time . The rear element is actually in pristine shape. I had to drop acetone on the lens retention ring to get it to move and I took that picture as soon as I got the lens out of the camera before I cleaned it up. The camera I bought was in rough shape but the lens elements are surprisingly clean. It’s always so nice when that happens. Buying the camera was a bit of a gamble but also very cheap. |
To be clear, I wedged the wood in place; a tiny piece. The glue was only a safeguard. I do not know what camera you are using. Mine is Sony mirrorless. I use a shallow focusing helicoid as my adapter. It requires the C-Mount to M42 ring also. The helicoid provides for a better focusing range. Love the lens. _________________ Regards,
Woodrim |
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