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maldaye
Joined: 19 Jun 2013 Posts: 316
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:33 am Post subject: Nikon 105mm Micro Full of Fungus (Pics) |
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maldaye wrote:
My Nikkor 105mm Micro was giving me a hard time, so after a bit of examination I discovered that the aparture blades were stuck on wide open. I guess I got burned on the purchase. It was also my first MF lens, so I kept it. Sadly, I didn't own a drybox at that point, so suffice to say it accumulated fungus. Poor lens. I was about to throw it in the bin, but then I decided to put a Tamron doubler and go for a shoot for memory's sake.
Here are the results:
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maldaye
Joined: 19 Jun 2013 Posts: 316
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:47 am Post subject: |
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maldaye wrote:
#1
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vlousada
Joined: 11 Dec 2010 Posts: 345 Location: Portugal
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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vlousada wrote:
This is a well regarded lens! Try to clean and fix it!
The result with TC 2x are surprisingly good. With some post-process to bring more contrast I would say VERY GOOD! _________________ Regards,
VITOR
-------
SELLING:
Please ask
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Basilisk
Joined: 21 Mar 2013 Posts: 356 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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Basilisk wrote:
I am sure someone would clean and fix a lens like this - old Nikkors are still very useable so keep their value |
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hifisapi
Joined: 25 Sep 2012 Posts: 941 Location: USA
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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hifisapi wrote:
unless the fungus has permanently etched and damaged the glass, I would get it cleaned. _________________ ===========
ACQUIRED OVER 30 YEARS:
Cameras: DSLR=Pentax istDS FILM=Pentax SP, SP-F, ESII, SP1000, KX, K2
Lenses : Pentax M42 = Super Multi Coated Takumars 50/1.4 55/1.8 100/4-BELLOWS 500/4.5 1000/8 135-600/6.7 Pentax PK= SMC Pentax-Ks K17/4-FF Fisheye K18/3.5 K20/4 K24/3.5 K28/3.5 K28/2 K35/3.5 K35/2 K50/1.2 K50/1.4K 50/4-MACROK 55/1.8 K85/1.8 K100/4-MACRO K100/4-BELLOWS K105/2.8 K120/2.8 K135/3.5 K135/2.5 K150/4 K200/4 K400/5.6 K45-125/4K 85-210/4.5 Pentax PKM = SMC Pentax-M M40/2.8-Pancake M50/1.4 M75-150/4 M80-200/4.5 Pentax PKA= SMC Pentax-A A15/3.5 A50/2.8-MACRO A28/2 A35/2 A50/1.4 A135/2.8 A200/4 A*300/4 A35-105/3.5 A24-50/4 A70-210/4 TAMRON AD2= SP80-200/2.8 SP180/2.5 TOKINA AT-X PK= ATX28-85/3.5-4.5 ATX35-70/2.8 ATX60-120/2.8 ATX80-200/2.8 ATX100-300/4 ATX90/2.5 MACRO KIRON-LESTER DINE PK = 105/2.8-MACRO VIVITAR PK = 135/2.8-MACRO 28-85/4 NOFLEXAR AUTOBELLOWS PK = 60/4 105/4 |
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maldaye
Joined: 19 Jun 2013 Posts: 316
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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maldaye wrote:
hifisapi wrote: |
unless the fungus has permanently etched and damaged the glass, I would get it cleaned. |
How would you know short of taking it to repair shop and getting it cleaned? |
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hifisapi
Joined: 25 Sep 2012 Posts: 941 Location: USA
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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hifisapi wrote:
maldaye wrote: |
hifisapi wrote: |
unless the fungus has permanently etched and damaged the glass, I would get it cleaned. |
How would you know short of taking it to repair shop and getting it cleaned? |
I guess you wouldn't except if they just get started and the first glass they try to clean is ruined and they don't have to bother doing the rest or putting the lens back together the price would be less than if they did the whole job as planned. _________________ ===========
ACQUIRED OVER 30 YEARS:
Cameras: DSLR=Pentax istDS FILM=Pentax SP, SP-F, ESII, SP1000, KX, K2
Lenses : Pentax M42 = Super Multi Coated Takumars 50/1.4 55/1.8 100/4-BELLOWS 500/4.5 1000/8 135-600/6.7 Pentax PK= SMC Pentax-Ks K17/4-FF Fisheye K18/3.5 K20/4 K24/3.5 K28/3.5 K28/2 K35/3.5 K35/2 K50/1.2 K50/1.4K 50/4-MACROK 55/1.8 K85/1.8 K100/4-MACRO K100/4-BELLOWS K105/2.8 K120/2.8 K135/3.5 K135/2.5 K150/4 K200/4 K400/5.6 K45-125/4K 85-210/4.5 Pentax PKM = SMC Pentax-M M40/2.8-Pancake M50/1.4 M75-150/4 M80-200/4.5 Pentax PKA= SMC Pentax-A A15/3.5 A50/2.8-MACRO A28/2 A35/2 A50/1.4 A135/2.8 A200/4 A*300/4 A35-105/3.5 A24-50/4 A70-210/4 TAMRON AD2= SP80-200/2.8 SP180/2.5 TOKINA AT-X PK= ATX28-85/3.5-4.5 ATX35-70/2.8 ATX60-120/2.8 ATX80-200/2.8 ATX100-300/4 ATX90/2.5 MACRO KIRON-LESTER DINE PK = 105/2.8-MACRO VIVITAR PK = 135/2.8-MACRO 28-85/4 NOFLEXAR AUTOBELLOWS PK = 60/4 105/4 |
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Oldhand
Joined: 01 Apr 2013 Posts: 6005 Location: Mid North Coast NSW - Australia
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 8:15 pm Post subject: |
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Oldhand wrote:
Lenses do accumulate fungus, yes.
But it takes fungus a long time to etch the surface of the glass. Even if the coatings might be affected it is worth getting a quality lens cleaned.
I have just had a couple of lenses de-fungused. The whole lens needs to be treated to not only remove the fungus that is there, but also the spores that aren't visible so that when the lens is re-assembled, the fungus doesn't start growing all over again.
The most costly to treat was billed at $68 and this included a full clean, re-lube and de-fungus and re-alignment.
Worth every penny on a valued lens.
If you are still going to throw the lens away, I will gladly take it off your hands.
OH |
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maddog10
Joined: 08 Apr 2008 Posts: 1072 Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2015-02-12
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 10:21 pm Post subject: |
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maddog10 wrote:
Anyone recommend good repair shops in the USA, I have a couple older Nikkor lenses that I would LOVE to have cleaned. Can they go directly to Nikon USA? _________________ Michael Hill |
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Bruce
Joined: 15 Jan 2008 Posts: 842 Location: Boston, Ma USA
Expire: 2014-11-22
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 10:40 pm Post subject: |
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Bruce wrote:
Ive not used them for repairs myself, but you might call the number given for repairs at KEH.COM
Ive bought many pieces from them in the past and so have many other mflensers from this site.
They are big on Nikkor, as you can see, if you check out their site _________________ Digital: Canon 40d & 5DmkII, Film: Hasselblad 203fe/Zeiss 80/2.8 cfe
Adapters for EOS: Cy; M42; Zenit39; Exakta; LeicaR; OlympusOM; PK; Nikon; Rollei35; Retina; Adaptal; P-6 |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:26 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
Most early Nikkors are quite easy to open.
Cleaning fungus is easy. I use just Isopropyl alcohol. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 2:37 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
luisalegria wrote: |
Most early Nikkors are quite easy to open.
Cleaning fungus is easy. I use just Isopropyl alcohol. |
My experience with Isopropyl alcohol is that it is quite weak battling the fungus. On the other side it is very friendly towards coating leaving it intact. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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maldaye
Joined: 19 Jun 2013 Posts: 316
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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maldaye wrote:
Pancolart wrote: |
luisalegria wrote: |
Most early Nikkors are quite easy to open.
Cleaning fungus is easy. I use just Isopropyl alcohol. |
My experience with Isopropyl alcohol is that it is quite weak battling the fungus. On the other side it is very friendly towards coating leaving it intact. |
I got it cleaned at a bazaar type stall. He didn't fix the blades. Just cleaned the fungus. He used a white substance cream like and even his shirt at times. It cost me like and 50 bucks. |
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hifisapi
Joined: 25 Sep 2012 Posts: 941 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 4:19 pm Post subject: |
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hifisapi wrote:
maldaye wrote: |
Pancolart wrote: |
luisalegria wrote: |
Most early Nikkors are quite easy to open.
Cleaning fungus is easy. I use just Isopropyl alcohol. |
My experience with Isopropyl alcohol is that it is quite weak battling the fungus. On the other side it is very friendly towards coating leaving it intact. |
I got it cleaned at a bazaar type stall. He didn't fix the blades. Just cleaned the fungus. He used a white substance cream like and even his shirt at times. It cost me like and 50 bucks. |
don't know about the white cream, but Ive heard using a shirt to clean lenses is not a good idea, (scratches). _________________ ===========
ACQUIRED OVER 30 YEARS:
Cameras: DSLR=Pentax istDS FILM=Pentax SP, SP-F, ESII, SP1000, KX, K2
Lenses : Pentax M42 = Super Multi Coated Takumars 50/1.4 55/1.8 100/4-BELLOWS 500/4.5 1000/8 135-600/6.7 Pentax PK= SMC Pentax-Ks K17/4-FF Fisheye K18/3.5 K20/4 K24/3.5 K28/3.5 K28/2 K35/3.5 K35/2 K50/1.2 K50/1.4K 50/4-MACROK 55/1.8 K85/1.8 K100/4-MACRO K100/4-BELLOWS K105/2.8 K120/2.8 K135/3.5 K135/2.5 K150/4 K200/4 K400/5.6 K45-125/4K 85-210/4.5 Pentax PKM = SMC Pentax-M M40/2.8-Pancake M50/1.4 M75-150/4 M80-200/4.5 Pentax PKA= SMC Pentax-A A15/3.5 A50/2.8-MACRO A28/2 A35/2 A50/1.4 A135/2.8 A200/4 A*300/4 A35-105/3.5 A24-50/4 A70-210/4 TAMRON AD2= SP80-200/2.8 SP180/2.5 TOKINA AT-X PK= ATX28-85/3.5-4.5 ATX35-70/2.8 ATX60-120/2.8 ATX80-200/2.8 ATX100-300/4 ATX90/2.5 MACRO KIRON-LESTER DINE PK = 105/2.8-MACRO VIVITAR PK = 135/2.8-MACRO 28-85/4 NOFLEXAR AUTOBELLOWS PK = 60/4 105/4 |
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dnas
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 488 Location: Japan
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Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 11:38 pm Post subject: |
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dnas wrote:
I use distilled white vinegar to clean and kill the fungus, and distilled water to remove residual vinegar. |
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bernhardas
Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Posts: 1432
Expire: 2017-05-23
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Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 2:45 am Post subject: |
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bernhardas wrote:
edited
Last edited by bernhardas on Wed Apr 06, 2016 6:56 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Dogtag
Joined: 27 Jul 2013 Posts: 164 Location: Holland del norte
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Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 12:52 pm Post subject: |
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Dogtag wrote:
maldaye wrote: |
Pancolart wrote: |
luisalegria wrote: |
Most early Nikkors are quite easy to open.
Cleaning fungus is easy. I use just Isopropyl alcohol. |
My experience with Isopropyl alcohol is that it is quite weak battling the fungus. On the other side it is very friendly towards coating leaving it intact. |
I got it cleaned at a bazaar type stall. He didn't fix the blades. Just cleaned the fungus. He used a white substance cream like and even his shirt at times. It cost me like and 50 bucks. |
where do you live?
For cleaning fungus I use a bathroom fungus cleaner, doesn't harm coatings and kills fungus (clears the glass) in minutes. some coatings (like the canon FD's) get 'eaten' away by the now removed fungus so it might leave a permanent mark but in most cases you get clear glass and it stays clear (it won't return after 24 months ). I also clean the parts that where in contact with the contaminated glass (housing parts etc). For final cleaning I give the glass a bath (Q-tip/cottonswap) with dishwasher (droplet in 250mm water, removes heavy grease) and finally clean the glass with ethanol(99+% pure).
(that sh*t is dangerous, don't think lightly about using such a flammable liquid. If you spill a litre bottle you have a real explosion hazard, because of it's quick evaporation. for safety put some ethanol in a smaller container 50/100ml and use a good ventilated room to use, unless you want brain damage ) _________________ Konica AR fan
Konica AR, 135/2.5 135/3.2 135/3.5 100/2.8 85/1.8 55/3.5-macro 57/1.2 57/1.4 50/1.4 52/1.8 50/1.7(3x) 40/1.8 35/2.8 35/2 28/1.8 24/2.8
Missing UC 15mm and 21mm |
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maldaye
Joined: 19 Jun 2013 Posts: 316
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Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:58 am Post subject: |
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maldaye wrote:
Dogtag wrote: |
maldaye wrote: |
Pancolart wrote: |
luisalegria wrote: |
Most early Nikkors are quite easy to open.
Cleaning fungus is easy. I use just Isopropyl alcohol. |
My experience with Isopropyl alcohol is that it is quite weak battling the fungus. On the other side it is very friendly towards coating leaving it intact. |
I got it cleaned at a bazaar type stall. He didn't fix the blades. Just cleaned the fungus. He used a white substance cream like and even his shirt at times. It cost me like and 50 bucks. |
where do you live?
For cleaning fungus I use a bathroom fungus cleaner, doesn't harm coatings and kills fungus (clears the glass) in minutes. some coatings (like the canon FD's) get 'eaten' away by the now removed fungus so it might leave a permanent mark but in most cases you get clear glass and it stays clear (it won't return after 24 months ). I also clean the parts that where in contact with the contaminated glass (housing parts etc). For final cleaning I give the glass a bath (Q-tip/cottonswap) with dishwasher (droplet in 250mm water, removes heavy grease) and finally clean the glass with ethanol(99+% pure).
(that sh*t is dangerous, don't think lightly about using such a flammable liquid. If you spill a litre bottle you have a real explosion hazard, because of it's quick evaporation. for safety put some ethanol in a smaller container 50/100ml and use a good ventilated room to use, unless you want brain damage ) |
I took three of my lenses including this one to a pro repairman and he did something like the above to clean and fix them.all came out excellent and cost me around $90. It would have been much more to get them replaced. No giving away sorry I immediately put them to use for a shoot with a model. I have to admit I love watching the process of repair and would love to learn the process but the more I watch them at work the more daunted I feel by the experience needed plus I wonder if there is any money in this business. My gf was of course impressed he made 90 in a day when u consider the local wages are so low 10 a day for minimum wages.
Mind you being a foreigner I was offered everything from 55 1.2 to a Rolleiflex |
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