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WolverineX
Joined: 19 Apr 2009
Posts: 1693
Location: Zagreb , Croatia , Europe
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 Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 1:32 pm Post subject: need your suggestions... |
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WolverineX wrote:
I'll probably , in the near future, get a chance to do a promo book of a local dance group, so i will need to make portraits of the members , both close up and whole body, and also group photos...
so i started thinking what lenses ,apart of my af 12-60mm lens, would i use...
so far i ,more or less, decided to use nikkor 20mm/4 , pancolar 50mm/1.8 and tokina at-x 35-70mm/2.8... (it will be an indoor shoot)
can you suggest me to use , any other lens from the lenses that i own (you can see them all in my signature)
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my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash
http://forum.mflenses.com/wolverinex-testing-my-lenses-series-link-list-t39524.html |
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Seele
Joined: 17 Apr 2009
Posts: 742
Location: Sydney Australia
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| Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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Seele wrote:
Just a suggestion:
When photographing full height standing figure, get on your knees, otherwise the foreshortening effect would make their heads too big, feet too small and legs too short. |
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WolverineX
Joined: 19 Apr 2009
Posts: 1693
Location: Zagreb , Croatia , Europe
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| Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 1:49 pm Post subject: |
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WolverineX wrote:
| Seele wrote: |
Just a suggestion:
When photographing full height standing figure, get on your knees, otherwise the foreshortening effect would make their heads too big, feet too small and legs too short. |
thank you, these kind of suggestions are also welcome
_________________
my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash
http://forum.mflenses.com/wolverinex-testing-my-lenses-series-link-list-t39524.html |
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008
Posts: 6622
Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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| Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 2:24 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
That 20/4, whilst a very good lens, might prove to be too slow indoors.
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Graham - Moderator 
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 57865
Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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| Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Olympus OM 2/90mm
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Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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SXR_Mark
Joined: 12 Jun 2010
Posts: 506
Location: England
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| Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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SXR_Mark wrote:
Zuiko 50mm f1.4 & Zuiko 100mm f2.8 both give great results on my E3. I would prefer to use the 50mm lens one stop down for optimum quality due to a tendency for it to produce coloured haloing wide open.
Whilst not really relevant as you don't have a copy, I also like the Samyang 85mm f1.4 which allows tight head shots with shallow depth of field. The point is, 85mm is not too long for portrait work even with an 4/3 camera.
Accuracy of focus will be a critical issue with any fast lens wide open (you know this of course  ) so I tend to use my EPL1 with VF2 electronic viewfinder for indoor family portrait work. With the E3, I use chipped adapters (I bough a Nikon fitting Samyang to allow this), but don't always find the AF confirm to be spot on. My eyes are not too good though, so you may not have the same problems I do in judging focus.
The ZD 12-60mm is a very, very fine lens, but with only f4 at the long end may not give a shallow enough depth of field for close-in portrait work. Thus, your decision to use MF lenses is sound.
Have you though about trying your Sigma 105mm macro for tight shots?
Good luck
Mark
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Olympus OM-D E-M1 for everything |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008
Posts: 1310
Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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| Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
+1 for the Zuiko 90/2, especially if your local dance group wear some typical dressings to show off ...
Otherwise, i would go also for the Pentax 50/1.4 ...
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Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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WolverineX
Joined: 19 Apr 2009
Posts: 1693
Location: Zagreb , Croatia , Europe
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| Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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WolverineX wrote:
| ManualFocus-G wrote: |
| That 20/4, whilst a very good lens, might prove to be too slow indoors. |
i'll have 2 Kaiser studiolights 1000 along with my fl-50r, so i will have enough light
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my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash
http://forum.mflenses.com/wolverinex-testing-my-lenses-series-link-list-t39524.html |
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