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OWSIU
Joined: 01 Oct 2009 Posts: 11 Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 5:43 pm Post subject: Manual focusing at f/1.2 in very low light? |
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OWSIU wrote:
Hi. I've been debating with myself whether or not I should buy an auto focus prime (canon 50/1.4 or 85/1.. I'm planning to take a trip to new york with a 5D Mark II and was wonder how hard would it be to manual focus at f/1.2 when out in the city at night or a dimly lit setting?
I haven't had the chance to try out my zuiko 50/1.2 since the adapter hasn't arrived yet. So while I wait, I was wondering what are some of your opinions. |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 5:51 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
if it is for non moving subjects, no problem with liveview or eg-s
if it is for running kids, some practice is needed |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
If it's dark then AF may not work anyway. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
You'll probably be ok if you use Live View. My experience with my 1.2 primes is, even in good light, focusing with the focusing screen can be a chore. With my film cameras, I've gotten the best results ignoring the microprism/split-image aid, and just using the ground glass portion of the focusing screen. I have an FD to EOS adapter with the element, and when I try to use my 1.2s wide open with my Canon DSLR, there's a lot of flare, so even with Live View, focusing can be difficult. But that's not a fair comparison to a lens that can be mounted without an optical adapter, so my guess is that, with some practice, you'll be able to do ok with the focusing screen, and in low light Live View should probably work well, since the camera boosts the signal to compensate when using Live View. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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pirius
Joined: 28 May 2009 Posts: 133 Location: SoFla
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Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 7:32 pm Post subject: |
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pirius wrote:
With live view focusing is not a problem as long as the subject is not moving - otherwise it becomes problematic because there is a bigger than usual lag when you press on the shutter button. Focusing with autofocus lenses in the dim light is equally problematic. I have Canon 50/1.2L and in a dim light it is hunting on 5D II a lot. 1D series should be a different story, of course. |
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Esox lucius
Joined: 26 Aug 2008 Posts: 2441 Location: Helsinki, Finland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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Esox lucius wrote:
martinsmith99 wrote: |
If it's dark then AF may not work anyway. |
Echo that. AF requires a point with contrast to lock on (or show focus confirm for MF). With a good viewfinder and fast lens you can focus in very low light, when AF can't. You just need a little practice. I'm finding even with pro AF modules MF is the option for low light low contrast scenes. AF can lock on bright spots though, but not faces in the dark.
This is Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 Ai-S, ISO 4000, f/2 and 1/10s. The only point where I saw a distinguishable area to focus on was the edge where my friend lay his hands down on.
view large: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mureena/2490424160/ _________________ Vilhelm
Nikon DSLR: D4, D800, Nikon D3, D70
Nikon SLR: Nikon F100, Nikon FM2n
Nikkor MF: 20/2.8 Ai-S, 24/2 Ai-S, 24/2.8 Ai-S, 28/2 Ai-S, 28/2.8 Ai-S, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 Ai-S, 45/2.8 GN, 50/1.2 Ai, 50/1.2 Ai-S, 50/1.4 Ai, 50/1.4 Ai-S, 50/1.8 AI-S "long", 50/1.8 AI-S "short", 55/1.2 Ai, 85/1.4 Ai-S, 85/1.8H, 105/2.5 Ai, 135/2.8Q, 135/3.5 Ai, 180/2.8 Ai-S ED
Nikkor AF/AF-S FX: 14-24/2.8G, 16/2.8D Fisheye, 16-35/4G VR, 17-35/2.8D, 24/1.4G, 24/3.5D PC-E, 24/2.8D, 24-70/2.8G, 28/1.4D, 28/1.8G, 35/1.4G, 35/2D, 50/1.4D, 50/1.4G, 50/1.8G, 60/2.8 Micro, 60/2.8G Micro, 70-200/2.8G VR, 70-200/2.8G VR II, 80-400/4.5-5.6D VR, 85/1.4G, 85/2.8D PC-E Micro, 105/2D DC, 105/2.8G VR Micro, 135/2D DC, 200/2G VR, 200-400/4G VR, 300/2.8G VR, 300/4D ED, 400/2.8G VR, 800/5.6E VR
Nikkor AF/AF-S DX: 10.5/2.8G Fisheye, 12-24/4G, 18-70/3.5-4.5G
Topcor: Auto-Topcor 58/1.4,
Voigtländer SL: 40/2 Ultron, 58/1.4 Nokton, 75/2.5 Color-Heliar, 90/3.5 APO-Lanthar, 125/2.5 APO-Lanthar, 180/4 APO-Lanthar
Zeiss ZF: Planar T* 85/1.4 ZF
M42 SLR: Voigtländer Bessaflex TM
M42: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.4, Tessar 50/2.8 T, Super-Takumar 55/1.8, Biotar 58/2 T, Pentacon 135/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5
Medium format: several Zeiss Super Ikonta 532/16 Opton-Tessar 80mm f/2.8, Zeiss Ikonta 524/16 Opton-Tessar 75mm f/3.5
Leica: R7, M4, Super-Angulon-R 4/21, Elmarit-R 2.8/28, Summicron-R 2/35, Summicron-M 2/35, Summicron-M 2/50, Elmarit-R 2,8/180 |
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scsambrook
Joined: 29 Mar 2009 Posts: 2167 Location: Glasgow Scotland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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scsambrook wrote:
Only one digital way to go for spot-on focus in low light with ultra-fast lenses ... Leica M8 or M9 (Well, maybe Epson RD as well!) _________________ Stephen
Equipment: Pentax DSLR for casual shooting, Lumix G1 and Fuji XE-1 for playing with old lenses, and Leica M8 because I still like the optical rangefinder system. |
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007 Posts: 5486 Location: Left Coast
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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F16SUNSHINE wrote:
Use A Rangfinder.
A properly aligned Rangerfinder can focus perfectly in low light even the fastest lens. _________________ Moderator |
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007 Posts: 5486 Location: Left Coast
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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F16SUNSHINE wrote:
Ooops
Steven beat me to that point _________________ Moderator |
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scsambrook
Joined: 29 Mar 2009 Posts: 2167 Location: Glasgow Scotland
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 8:37 pm Post subject: |
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scsambrook wrote:
F16SUNSHINE wrote: |
Use A Rangfinder.
A properly aligned Rangerfinder can focus perfectly in low light even the fastest lens. |
Yes! - absolutely right ... both the lens and rangefinder need to be properly aligned, or the combination's pretty near useless _________________ Stephen
Equipment: Pentax DSLR for casual shooting, Lumix G1 and Fuji XE-1 for playing with old lenses, and Leica M8 because I still like the optical rangefinder system. |
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koji
Joined: 21 Jul 2008 Posts: 2107 Location: Hiroshima, Japan
Expire: 2012-12-27
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Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 10:03 pm Post subject: |
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koji wrote:
Do "focus bracketing like hell" even when you are aiming at a life time chance
of event or such. _________________ Our Home Page has 18,200 photos in 575 directories today.
Lenses: https://www.pbase.com/kkawakami/top_level_my_lenses |
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kl122002
Joined: 16 Nov 2009 Posts: 39
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Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 5:29 am Post subject: |
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kl122002 wrote:
I don't have 5D II or other DSLR but film. To me, using a FL55/1.2 with old F-1 is still fine. There is no problem till I sold the lens for a better one.
What you need is practise. |
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