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Blinx123
Joined: 18 Jul 2011 Posts: 75
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Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 7:09 pm Post subject: M42 - EOS differences flange/non-flange |
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Blinx123 wrote:
While browsing for an inexpensive M42 - EOS AF confirm adaptor for my Canon EOS 50E/ElanII, I have found that there are actually two different basic constructions.
Flange and non-flange.
Is there any practical difference between them? Which one is better suited for someone looking into pairing it up to his Carl Zeiss tele lenses?
Also. I have issues understanding the principles of manual focus with one such adapter. According to several tutorials, one focusses with the lens wide open and only after that changes the aperture. Now I understand that wide open, focussing is rather easy. Still. During bright sunlight, I usually set my 1.8 lens to 5.6 before shooting. Is that largely impossible with such an adapter?
EDIT: I read somewhere that the Canon EOS 30 is incompatible with AF confirm adaptors. Kind of worried now. Does the same apply to the Canon EOS 50E, as well? |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Hi,
The main difference between flanged and non-flanged adapters is that the flanged ones will allow you to use "auto-only" M42 lenses on your camera (ex.: EBC Fujinon M42 lenses). The inner flange is used to push down the diaphragm pin, so that your "auto-only" lens will behave like an ordinary M42 lens (ex.: Takumar or Zeiss).
On my own, i use a flanged adapter for all my M42 lenses on my 5DII, no matter whether they are "auto-only" or not. With a flanged adapter they will behave the same. And i use a Sonnar 180/2.8 with it, too ...
Stopping down the lens before focusing is perfectly feasible with those adapters, just close the diaphragm before focusing. The issue is that you will focus with a lens closed to f/5.6, instead than focusing with a lens at f/1.8 ... If your eyes can handle the darker viewfinder, there will be no issue at all ...
Hope this helps ... _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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trev
Joined: 30 Jun 2010 Posts: 580 Location: North Wales - UK
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 10:36 am Post subject: |
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trev wrote:
My 50e always locks up when I use an adapter, was told that using an exif adapter would solve the problem, but it really hasn't. There is somewhere an article of how one can overcome this problem, but for the life of me I cannot remember where _________________ Fuji X10, X-A1 and Samsung nx 20 |
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Blinx123
Joined: 18 Jul 2011 Posts: 75
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 2:40 pm Post subject: |
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Blinx123 wrote:
Hi trev.
I found some older posts from you. Back then, you wrote that an EXIF adapter from Big-IS solved the problems with your EOS 50E.
Now what I gather from your reply is that it didn't work out either. That right?
Apparently, the problem with the 5Ds, 1Ds and all the old analogue Canon EOS' is that there is a small pin one has to press and fix into place with a small piece of paper.
That's what I gathered from the info I found on some merchant's site.
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trev
Joined: 30 Jun 2010 Posts: 580 Location: North Wales - UK
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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trev wrote:
Yeah, my 50 and 5 lock up most of the time, so I gave up trying and just use 'em with autofocus lenses....use the manuals on other cameras _________________ Fuji X10, X-A1 and Samsung nx 20 |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 6:11 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Hi,
Blinx123 wrote: |
Apparently, the problem with the 5Ds, 1Ds and all the old analogue Canon EOS' is that there is a small pin one has to press and fix into place with a small piece of paper.
That's what I gathered from the info I found on some merchant's site.
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I'm not sure about this, but i think i have read somewhere that some Canon adapters have a kind of small tab that must be turned inside the ring or ourside the ring according to the kind of camera body they are used on ...
I don't have mine here right now, but i will post a picture of the tab ASAP.
Maybe this could be the source (or the fix) to this issue ... _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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Blinx123
Joined: 18 Jul 2011 Posts: 75
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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Blinx123 wrote:
trev wrote: |
Yeah, my 50 and 5 lock up most of the time, so I gave up trying and just use 'em with autofocus lenses....use the manuals on other cameras |
Well. I won't acquire any more AF lenses for a long time (lacking the funds), so essentially I'll have to rely on my Varexons and Zeiss' for all the short tele work.
Guess that paper trick is worth a shot. It's what all those underpriveleged 1D users do. |
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nameBrandon
Joined: 06 Aug 2011 Posts: 19 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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nameBrandon wrote:
Hey all.. apologies for piggybacking on this thread, but I just obtained my first MF lens (Takumar SMC 55 1.8 / M42) and I'm trying to figure out which adapter to order for use on my Canon 5D (Mark I, the older model).
Here's the back side of the lens.. should I be looking for a non-flange, or flanged adapter?
I'm almost positive it should be non-flange, but I'd love to know 100% for sure before placing the order.
Thanks! |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 10:19 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Hi,
Well, for what concerns the Takumars, the answer is simple: as long as you use them in "manual" mode (i.e. with the switch on the lens set to "M") you can use a non-flanged adapter. If you are planning to use also some others "auto-only" M42 lenses, then it would be better to get a flanged adapter, that can be used with both kind of lenses ... _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 12:48 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
I agree with Dino. Non-flange is always best if you're using a lens with the Auto-Manual switch, such as Takumars, CZJ and Pentacons. Preset and manual lenses don't need the flange either. Only very few auto M42 lenses don't have an A-M switich, e.g. Helios 44M-4 and Domiplan.
The flanges are not a standard size and the depth of the screw threads is inconsistent. Sometimes the depth is insufficent and the flange stops the lens from screwing fully in so you can't reach infinity focus, other times it's too deep so the pin isn't pushed in fully. Another problem I've found is that the opening in my flanged adapter is actually too small for the rear lens of the Tak 1.4/50 to pass through, which again prevents infinity focus. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Blinx123
Joined: 18 Jul 2011 Posts: 75
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Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 2:52 am Post subject: |
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Blinx123 wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
I agree with Dino. Non-flange is always best if you're using a lens with the Auto-Manual switch, such as Takumars, CZJ and Pentacons. Preset and manual lenses don't need the flange either. Only very few auto M42 lenses don't have an A-M switich, e.g. Helios 44M-4 and Domiplan.
The flanges are not a standard size and the depth of the screw threads is inconsistent. Sometimes the depth is insufficent and the flange stops the lens from screwing fully in so you can't reach infinity focus, other times it's too deep so the pin isn't pushed in fully. Another problem I've found is that the opening in my flanged adapter is actually too small for the rear lens of the Tak 1.4/50 to pass through, which again prevents infinity focus. |
Huh? Wouldn't that mean that you actually disagreed with Dino?
From what I gathered, he is the 'pro-flange' kind of guy.
Gotta say though. I somewhat share your view on the different flange sizes. Inconsistency is the one thing I fear the most. |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7567 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:30 am Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
Blinx123 wrote: |
peterqd wrote: |
I agree with Dino. Non-flange is always best if you're using a lens with the Auto-Manual switch, such as Takumars, CZJ and Pentacons. Preset and manual lenses don't need the flange either. Only very few auto M42 lenses don't have an A-M switich, e.g. Helios 44M-4 and Domiplan.
The flanges are not a standard size and the depth of the screw threads is inconsistent. Sometimes the depth is insufficent and the flange stops the lens from screwing fully in so you can't reach infinity focus, other times it's too deep so the pin isn't pushed in fully. Another problem I've found is that the opening in my flanged adapter is actually too small for the rear lens of the Tak 1.4/50 to pass through, which again prevents infinity focus. |
Huh? Wouldn't that mean that you actually disagreed with Dino?
From what I gathered, he is the 'pro-flange' kind of guy.
Gotta say though. I somewhat share your view on the different flange sizes. Inconsistency is the one thing I fear the most. |
In short, the flange-less adapter should fit most lenses. For those auto lenses, you have to try which adapter will fit your lens or you can fix the position aperture pin like one of the forum member here. _________________ https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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nameBrandon
Joined: 06 Aug 2011 Posts: 19 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 6:16 am Post subject: |
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nameBrandon wrote:
Thanks everyone! Pardon the dummy question again, but I'm having a hard time telling flange vs non-flange apart.
Is this adapter OK (flange-less)?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K54VWK/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i5?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
or is the the flange-less model?
http://www.amazon.com/Bower-Screw-Mount-M42-Canon-Adapter/dp/B000Z3W6W2
Ideally I'd like to find the non-flange with the chip for AF detection. Programmable for EXIF data would be swell, but not a necessity. If anyone has another specific unit they know works well and can link to, that'd be much appreciated. |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 9:20 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
You need a flanged adapter for lenses that are auto only.
If they are preset, manual or have an auto/manual switch then either will work. I use flangeless most of the time, especially with lenses with a switch on as it allows easy switching between wide open for focusing and stopped down for shooting.
If you only want to ever buy one adapter, buy the flanged one as it will work with all lenses. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
The first link is a flanged adapter, look at the 2nd picture. The second link looks like a non-flange type but it isn't too clear.
Here's a comparison of flanged and non-flanged types. A is the flanged type which keeps the pin depressed, B & C is the non-flanged version. B is a non-auto lens and C is auto, with the pin. If the lens has an A-M switch you don't need the flange.
Here's the problem with the Super-Takumar 1.4/50 on a flanged adapter. With the lens screwed right home against the mount face, the rear element won't pass far enough through the adapter to focus on infinity.
And lastly this is an S-M-C Takumar 3.5/28 on two different M42-EOS adapters. The S-M-C and SMC Taks have an extra lever and a small metal block, which can bind on the flange and prevent the lens being screwed right home. I had to file out the inside edge of this flange to give room for the lever.
_________________ Peter - Moderator |
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nameBrandon
Joined: 06 Aug 2011 Posts: 19 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 5:56 pm Post subject: |
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nameBrandon wrote:
Thanks everyone, that helps quite a bit! |
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theart
Joined: 03 Jun 2011 Posts: 18
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Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 12:43 am Post subject: |
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theart wrote:
If you get an adapter with a chip, the camera will confirm focus down to around f8. |
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nameBrandon
Joined: 06 Aug 2011 Posts: 19 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 1:57 am Post subject: |
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nameBrandon wrote:
Thanks everyone.. got the cheap-o $8 adapter in from Amazon, works great. I ordered another with an AF-chip as well, it should be here Friday or Saturday. I think I may look into the Ee-S focusing screen for my Canon 5D as well..
I'm in love this SMC Takumar 55 1.8 so far! |
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mereside
Joined: 25 Aug 2011 Posts: 22 Location: east yorkshire
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Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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mereside wrote:
just to help anyone out who is having issues with there camera lockup with m42 adapters there is a small pin in the corner of the camera opening above the mirror and the problem is this doesnt want tripping as its telling the camera that a non af lens is being used and trips out or locks up so the easiest solution is when fitting the adapter mark the flange that trips and take it back off and use a diomand file and file down the flange to miss the switch problem solved no more lockups i can post pictures if anybody needs them i have done four adapters now for my 1ds,atb wayne |
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