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trev
Joined: 30 Jun 2010 Posts: 580 Location: North Wales - UK
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 3:35 pm Post subject: Lens hood removal |
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trev wrote:
Any ideas folks? Got this Panagor 35-100 zoom lens which I bought with a "jammed on" lens hood. The lens hood is metal and I JUST cannot shift it without doing either the lens or the hood some damage. I'd leave it on but theres nowhere to screw on a polarizing filter etc etc.
Help please _________________ Fuji X10, X-A1 and Samsung nx 20 |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 4:46 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Often a hood won't unscrew because it distorts when you grip it. Try pressing down the front rim of the hood onto a grippy rubber surface, such as a rubber glove, and turning the lens instead. Or if you can get hold of one, try using one of those tools for undoing screw lids. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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trev
Joined: 30 Jun 2010 Posts: 580 Location: North Wales - UK
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 4:49 pm Post subject: |
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trev wrote:
Tried that to no avail, am now wondering in some idiot glued the blasted thing on, or perhaps its cross threaded and being metal to metal !!!!!!!! _________________ Fuji X10, X-A1 and Samsung nx 20 |
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RioRico
Joined: 12 Mar 2010 Posts: 1120 Location: California or Guatemala or somewhere
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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RioRico wrote:
Try squirting graphite powder on the threads. I wouldn't recommend using any volatile thread-unsticker like WD-40 because it might foul the objective. Try using a rubber or sticky plastic ball, whose diameter is just larger than the lens hood's, to get a grip on the hood when unscrewing it. And if all else fails, just cut the hood away. Good luck. _________________ Too many film+digi cams+lenses, oh my -- Pentax K20D, K-1000, M42s, more
The simple truth is this: There are no neutral photographs. --F-Stop Fitzgerald |
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themoleman342
Joined: 21 Oct 2007 Posts: 2190 Location: East Coast (CT), U.S.A.
Expire: 2013-01-24
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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themoleman342 wrote:
I've cut away filters with great success and no damage to the lens. The metal is typically thin enough to just be bent inwards until the whole thing pops out. Just a last resort option.
~Marc |
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WolverineX
Joined: 19 Apr 2009 Posts: 1693 Location: Zagreb , Croatia , Europe
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 5:41 pm Post subject: |
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WolverineX wrote:
can you post a photo of the lens? maybe you'll get better suggestions how to remove the hood _________________ my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash
http://forum.mflenses.com/wolverinex-testing-my-lenses-series-link-list-t39524.html |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11058 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 5:56 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Some untested ideas (i.e. try at own risk!) spring to mind:
Immerse hood in ice water to create temperature differential between hood and lens, so hood metal contracts and pulls away from surrounding lens metal. Hood may easily unscrew.
If oxidation has cemented the surfaces together, use Alumina to dissolve it:
Quote: |
Alumina removes grease, oil, grime and oxides on all types of aluminum and aluminum alloys. It does not contain fluorides and operates at a pH of 5.1 to 6.1. Alumina is non-toxic, non-corrosive, biodegradable and does not contain acids or alkalis. It is non-flammable and contains no petroleum solvents.
...
BENEFITS AND FEATURES:
* Non-Fluoride formulation
* Rapidly removes oxide from aluminum and aluminum alloys
* Non-corrosive
* Non-flammable
* Biodegradable
* Contains no VOC’s or HAP’s
* Contains no solvents, acids, bases
* Easy and safe to use
* Safe on soft metals, plastic, rubber, PVC and other surfaces unharmed by water alone |
http://www.orisonmarketing.com/corrosion/alumina/alumina.html _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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