ISCO Kiptar 2X Anamorphic Projection Lens Possible Mods

Chris-Jr · Joined: 02 Feb 2017 Posts: 3

Hello, I recently purchased a Kiptar 2X projection lens in need of attention, fungus to rear element and non smooth focus. I've looked at purchasing this sort of lens for sometime, familiar with need for dual focus, diopters for close focus, etc so wanted to buy in cheaply with view to strip down, modify and hopefully improve, basically spend no more than Â£50 ish in order to aquire the important lens elements and see what I can do with them. I have access to many machine shops around where I live and a contact with 3D printer owner.

So question is what can I do to improve the operation of the Kiptar parts, video mainly, taking / donar lens Lydith, Helios 44-m or Yashica ML 50 1.9, 2.0 Yashidon DS. 50 on a Canon APS-C can go to approx 24mm focal length without vignette as is I think.

Also any history of the Kiptar, 2X not much on the web, mostly ISCOramas around 1968 onwards, although believe those were high quality 'consumer' market like Exacta not projection.

Thanks

Chris-Jr · Joined: 02 Feb 2017 Posts: 3

Hello, so I have the lens stripped down two the point of separating the 2 lens groupings (front & back) in order to remove a small amount of fungus, the metal components of the lens stripped down, horrid sticky grease wiped off to prepare for re lubricating. A couple of queries.

The original grease on the lens threads is really thick brown stuff, I've wiped the worst off but would steam cleaning or boiling the parts in an old saucepan be a good idea to get the rest off? The new grease I intend using unless advised otherwise is HELIMAX-XP.

For killing the fungus I'm intending just using lighter fuel. Would I be best to use a face cream type of fungal killer?

First task is to get the lens back together working clean and smooth throw / enlargement via the front knurled ring. I'm led to believe it's not actually focusing?

Next I'd like to look at what, if any options there are to improve operation and performance, like short focus range in conjunction with taking lens or helicoid or whatever options there are. At the moment the lens has a 2X squeeze at infinity only I think and as the throw is adjusted the squeeze reduces? Or is this only if I set the taking lens to infinity?

Close throw distance is 55ft so I understand diopters are one way of getting closer focus. The lens has a front I/D of 100mm and rear I/D of 90mm. 2 lens groups front and back. So query is if the distance between the lens groupings is altered what effect might that have?, if the packer between the lens elements in a group is widened or narrowed what effect would that have? Could a lens be introduced between the front and rear lens groups to help?

Any other suggestions that don't include 'don't bother, give up" Smile

Lloydy · Expire: 2022-01-01

I use cold cream / face cream for removing fungus, it seems to work very well. And I've boiled the metal bits of a lens to get the old grease out. I've also put lens parts in the dishwasher, that does a great job!

The HELIMAX-XP. will be fine, although I use the same grease as I use for car wheel bearings - a general purpose grease. ( I won't use Molybdenum disulfide grease at all, it leeches oil. )

kds315* · Expire: 2021-03-09

careful with aluminum parts as the dishwasher detergent cubes (some at least)
corrode aluminum!

Lloydy · Expire: 2022-01-01

Chris-Jr · Joined: 02 Feb 2017 Posts: 3

Thanks very much both for the suggestions, I've bought some cold cream so will give that a go. I've finally got to the actual rear lens group now and just scraping off the cement around the edge, think its a group of three elements, but a little worried at the moment, now the grouping is out and I've scraped the edge I can see a rainbow appear in the lens and what looks like horizontal lines across the lens inner face, difficult to explain but like delamination, I'm hoping its just because I may have slightly released the lenses scrapping the cement from the groove between elements? I'll know for sure a little later. Then have to tackle the front grouping the same way I guess.

*EDIT* It appears to be some sort of clear glue between the elements, a bit of lighter fuel makes the glue sticky. So thinking how I clean the glue off? Warm water? And should I find lens glue to put the elements back together as originally?*EDIT*

If all goes well I think I may get some abs 3D printed frames to clamp the lens groupings into, introduce a bellows between the front and back groupings, have an old helios bellows rack and pinion I could use, 100mm circular concertina pipe in black from a plumbing store and mount the lot on 10mm rails, I have a Ginirig already, this is really for shooting video but also seen some great still shots. *EDIT* Second thoughts, for the minimal weight some of the original Kiptar components are and probably more dimensionally stable with changes in environment will probably reuse the 140mm O/D front casing, rings etc and make the distance between the front and rear elements adjustable for closer focus, differing squeeze in the 97mm O/D part of the lens. Don't think I will find or afford a 140mm diopter as an alternative? And reusing the original casing keeps the character of the lens, even if adds a bit more weight.*EDIT*

The bellows will affect the desqueeze ratio depending on distance between lens groupings so, will I guess need to shoot something circular at different spacings and work out some rough desqueeze ratios marked on the rods. Or bellows unit has scale I think which would be better. But this way I should get close focus without diopter but still double focus.

But first have I ruined the lens grouping. Smile

*EDIT* Not yet but glue, sticky fingers and misalignment of the anamorphic elements should do it. Smile

*EDIT*

I have the front elements ready to separate but trying to decide to or not, there's a bit of fungus and clouding and due to shape of lens elements far less likely to misaligned when gluing back together. In for a penny in for a pound.