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chris_zeel
Joined: 21 Jan 2013 Posts: 136 Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 10:36 am Post subject: Is this fungus? (on Pentacon 135/2.8) |
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chris_zeel wrote:
I bought a Pentacon 135/2.8 zebra in exakta mount with two extension pieces.
The focus is quite stiff so I want to relube the objective soon, but I still need to buy the replacement mount to M42 to get it fully functioning.
I could also buy a Exakta - EOS adapter. Do people have good experiences with that?
Upon examining the lens I spotted some imperfections on the rear glass element.
Can someone tell me if it's fungus?
_________________ DSLR: Canon 6D, Canon 400D
SLR: Praktica MTL5, Topcon RE-2, Topcon RE Super, Nikon EM, Chinon CE-3 Memotron, Pentacon F, Zenit 12-XP
Rangefinder: Zorki 4K, Ricoh 500G, Olympus 35 SP, Neoca 2S
Folder: Afga Isolette-I
Compact: Olympus mju-I
AF: Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 XR Di LD
Exakta: Meyer-Optik Trioplan 50/2.9, Primagon 35/4.5
M42: Sigma Mini Wide 28/2.8, Auto Chinon 28/2.8, Meyer-Optik Lydith 30/3.5, Pentacon Electric 29/2.8, Mir 1b 37/2.8, Super-Takumar 50/1.4, Meyer-Optik Oreston 50 f/1.8, Auto Yashinon 50/2, CZJ Tessar T 50/2.8, E. Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Meyer-Optik Primotar E 50/3.5, Industar 50-2 50/3.5, SMC Takumar 55/2, CZJ Biotar 58/2, Helios 44 58 f/2, Jupiter-9 85 f/2, Meyer-Optik 85/3.5, Super-Takumar 105/2.8, Accura Super Tc 135/2.8, Pentacon Zebra 135/2.8, Jupiter-11 135 f/4, Chinon MC Auto 200/3.5, Accura Supertel Tc 200/4.5, Soligor C/D Macro+Zoom 80-200/4.5
F-mount: Nikon Series E 28/2.8, 50/1.8, 100/2.8, Nikkor-S 35/2.8, Nikkor-H.C 50/2, Nikkor-H 85/1.8
Topcon: RE Auto Topcor 35/2.8, RE. Auto Topcor 58/1.8, RE. Auto Topcor 135/3.5
OM: Zuiko Auto-S 50/1. |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3705 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 10:42 am Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
It's typical Meyer / Pentacon coating degradation. Leave it as it is since it will peel off if trying to clean it. It has minimal affect on lens IQ despite the infectious look. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 11:07 am Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Pancolart wrote: |
It's typical Meyer / Pentacon coating degradation. Leave it as it is since it will peel off if trying to clean it. It has minimal affect on lens IQ despite the infectious look. |
+1 not fungus. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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chris_zeel
Joined: 21 Jan 2013 Posts: 136 Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 11:56 am Post subject: |
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chris_zeel wrote:
@administrator, sorry for posting in the wrong subforum and thanks for moving it!
Thanks for the response Pancolart and Attila, it's comforting to known the glass is ok.
Now I only need to service the objective.
Any thought on Exacta-EOS adapter vs fitting a M42 adapter mount? _________________ DSLR: Canon 6D, Canon 400D
SLR: Praktica MTL5, Topcon RE-2, Topcon RE Super, Nikon EM, Chinon CE-3 Memotron, Pentacon F, Zenit 12-XP
Rangefinder: Zorki 4K, Ricoh 500G, Olympus 35 SP, Neoca 2S
Folder: Afga Isolette-I
Compact: Olympus mju-I
AF: Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 XR Di LD
Exakta: Meyer-Optik Trioplan 50/2.9, Primagon 35/4.5
M42: Sigma Mini Wide 28/2.8, Auto Chinon 28/2.8, Meyer-Optik Lydith 30/3.5, Pentacon Electric 29/2.8, Mir 1b 37/2.8, Super-Takumar 50/1.4, Meyer-Optik Oreston 50 f/1.8, Auto Yashinon 50/2, CZJ Tessar T 50/2.8, E. Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Meyer-Optik Primotar E 50/3.5, Industar 50-2 50/3.5, SMC Takumar 55/2, CZJ Biotar 58/2, Helios 44 58 f/2, Jupiter-9 85 f/2, Meyer-Optik 85/3.5, Super-Takumar 105/2.8, Accura Super Tc 135/2.8, Pentacon Zebra 135/2.8, Jupiter-11 135 f/4, Chinon MC Auto 200/3.5, Accura Supertel Tc 200/4.5, Soligor C/D Macro+Zoom 80-200/4.5
F-mount: Nikon Series E 28/2.8, 50/1.8, 100/2.8, Nikkor-S 35/2.8, Nikkor-H.C 50/2, Nikkor-H 85/1.8
Topcon: RE Auto Topcor 35/2.8, RE. Auto Topcor 58/1.8, RE. Auto Topcor 135/3.5
OM: Zuiko Auto-S 50/1. |
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fuzzywuzzy
Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Posts: 1258 Location: Down East, Canada, eh?
Expire: 2013-11-30
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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fuzzywuzzy wrote:
chris_zeel wrote: |
@administrator, sorry for posting in the wrong subforum and thanks for moving it!
Thanks for the response Pancolart and Attila, it's comforting to known the glass is ok.
Now I only need to service the objective.
Any thought on Exacta-EOS adapter vs fitting a M42 adapter mount? |
Exakta/EOS adapters are cheap and easy. The one from Ebay seller Big-is should reach infnity.
The exception is Exakta auto lenses with the big knob on the side, many of them won't fit on the adapter. _________________ I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
~~~~~~~~~
CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8, Mir 20M
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8
Hexanon 28/3.5, 50/1.4 |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 2:27 pm Post subject: Re: Is this fungus? (on Pentacon 135/2.8) |
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peterqd wrote:
chris_zeel wrote: |
The focus is quite stiff |
I think this answers your question. I've had several lenses like this with stiff focussing, and on every one the grease on the focussing threads had separated into a thin oily liquid and a heavy sticky grease. This is caused by excessive heat - perhaps the lens was left on a sunny window cill or in a car. The lighter oil evaporates and recondenses on the inner surface of the glass. which causes this spotty effect. It's more than likely you'll find there is an oily deposit on the diaphragm blades too. Fortunately it's easy to clean off once the lens is dismantled. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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chris_zeel
Joined: 21 Jan 2013 Posts: 136 Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 5:10 pm Post subject: Re: Is this fungus? (on Pentacon 135/2.8) |
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chris_zeel wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
chris_zeel wrote: |
The focus is quite stiff |
I think this answers your question. I've had several lenses like this with stiff focussing, and on every one the grease on the focussing threads had separated into a thin oily liquid and a heavy sticky grease. This is caused by excessive heat - perhaps the lens was left on a sunny window cill or in a car. The lighter oil evaporates and recondenses on the inner surface of the glass. which causes this spotty effect. It's more than likely you'll find there is an oily deposit on the diaphragm blades too. Fortunately it's easy to clean off once the lens is dismantled. |
Sounds very comprehendible. The diaphragm leaves do look like they have that oily deposit on them
Would you clean if off the lenses? Or leave it as is?
I haven't been able to test the lens yet so I don't know how the image quality is. _________________ DSLR: Canon 6D, Canon 400D
SLR: Praktica MTL5, Topcon RE-2, Topcon RE Super, Nikon EM, Chinon CE-3 Memotron, Pentacon F, Zenit 12-XP
Rangefinder: Zorki 4K, Ricoh 500G, Olympus 35 SP, Neoca 2S
Folder: Afga Isolette-I
Compact: Olympus mju-I
AF: Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 XR Di LD
Exakta: Meyer-Optik Trioplan 50/2.9, Primagon 35/4.5
M42: Sigma Mini Wide 28/2.8, Auto Chinon 28/2.8, Meyer-Optik Lydith 30/3.5, Pentacon Electric 29/2.8, Mir 1b 37/2.8, Super-Takumar 50/1.4, Meyer-Optik Oreston 50 f/1.8, Auto Yashinon 50/2, CZJ Tessar T 50/2.8, E. Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Meyer-Optik Primotar E 50/3.5, Industar 50-2 50/3.5, SMC Takumar 55/2, CZJ Biotar 58/2, Helios 44 58 f/2, Jupiter-9 85 f/2, Meyer-Optik 85/3.5, Super-Takumar 105/2.8, Accura Super Tc 135/2.8, Pentacon Zebra 135/2.8, Jupiter-11 135 f/4, Chinon MC Auto 200/3.5, Accura Supertel Tc 200/4.5, Soligor C/D Macro+Zoom 80-200/4.5
F-mount: Nikon Series E 28/2.8, 50/1.8, 100/2.8, Nikkor-S 35/2.8, Nikkor-H.C 50/2, Nikkor-H 85/1.8
Topcon: RE Auto Topcor 35/2.8, RE. Auto Topcor 58/1.8, RE. Auto Topcor 135/3.5
OM: Zuiko Auto-S 50/1. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 5:36 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Me personally, I would clean the lens if it is indeed oily deposits and not coating degradation. But I have the right tools and I've refurbished lenses before. The older primes are usually fairly easy to work on, so I wouldn't be overly concerned about it. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Judging by your first pic I would say this definitely needs to be cleaned. It's not difficult at all to remove the rear element,
just make sure you replace it the right way round.
Excellent instructions for the Pentacon 135/2.8 on this link
http://www.mqcvisions.net/Pentacon_135_2_8/Pentacon_1.html _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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chris_zeel
Joined: 21 Jan 2013 Posts: 136 Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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chris_zeel wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Judging by your first pic I would say this definitely needs to be cleaned. It's not difficult at all to remove the rear element,
just make sure you replace it the right way round.
Excellent instructions for the Pentacon 135/2.8 on this link
http://www.mqcvisions.net/Pentacon_135_2_8/Pentacon_1.html |
Is this guide also applicable for the preset zebra? Is it constructed in the same way?
The rear element can indeed be easily unscrewed.
How do I best clean the glass elements? _________________ DSLR: Canon 6D, Canon 400D
SLR: Praktica MTL5, Topcon RE-2, Topcon RE Super, Nikon EM, Chinon CE-3 Memotron, Pentacon F, Zenit 12-XP
Rangefinder: Zorki 4K, Ricoh 500G, Olympus 35 SP, Neoca 2S
Folder: Afga Isolette-I
Compact: Olympus mju-I
AF: Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 XR Di LD
Exakta: Meyer-Optik Trioplan 50/2.9, Primagon 35/4.5
M42: Sigma Mini Wide 28/2.8, Auto Chinon 28/2.8, Meyer-Optik Lydith 30/3.5, Pentacon Electric 29/2.8, Mir 1b 37/2.8, Super-Takumar 50/1.4, Meyer-Optik Oreston 50 f/1.8, Auto Yashinon 50/2, CZJ Tessar T 50/2.8, E. Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Meyer-Optik Primotar E 50/3.5, Industar 50-2 50/3.5, SMC Takumar 55/2, CZJ Biotar 58/2, Helios 44 58 f/2, Jupiter-9 85 f/2, Meyer-Optik 85/3.5, Super-Takumar 105/2.8, Accura Super Tc 135/2.8, Pentacon Zebra 135/2.8, Jupiter-11 135 f/4, Chinon MC Auto 200/3.5, Accura Supertel Tc 200/4.5, Soligor C/D Macro+Zoom 80-200/4.5
F-mount: Nikon Series E 28/2.8, 50/1.8, 100/2.8, Nikkor-S 35/2.8, Nikkor-H.C 50/2, Nikkor-H 85/1.8
Topcon: RE Auto Topcor 35/2.8, RE. Auto Topcor 58/1.8, RE. Auto Topcor 135/3.5
OM: Zuiko Auto-S 50/1. |
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fermy
Joined: 17 Feb 2012 Posts: 1974
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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 11:36 pm Post subject: |
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fermy wrote:
I prefer disposable wet cleaning tissue for eye-glasses. Cheap, does not leave residue, no need to clean it. _________________ Many lenses and some film bodies for sale here: http://forum.mflenses.com/canon-fd-minolta-md-c-mounts-m42-pentax-and-more-t50465.html
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/96060788@N06/ |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 12:51 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
chris_zeel wrote: |
Is this guide also applicable for the preset zebra? Is it constructed in the same way? |
The guide is for a later version but still preset. As far as I know only the cosmetics were changed.
Quote: |
The rear element can indeed be easily unscrewed.
How do I best clean the glass elements? |
I just use washing-up liquid, warm water and a tissue. Be gentle because the coatings could be easily damaged on this older
lens. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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chris_zeel
Joined: 21 Jan 2013 Posts: 136 Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands
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Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 9:51 pm Post subject: |
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chris_zeel wrote:
Thanks for the advice people!
If I would be opening the glass element for cleaning, is the orientation critical when putting them back together?
I don't means back to front orientation of the lenses, but the rotational orientation. _________________ DSLR: Canon 6D, Canon 400D
SLR: Praktica MTL5, Topcon RE-2, Topcon RE Super, Nikon EM, Chinon CE-3 Memotron, Pentacon F, Zenit 12-XP
Rangefinder: Zorki 4K, Ricoh 500G, Olympus 35 SP, Neoca 2S
Folder: Afga Isolette-I
Compact: Olympus mju-I
AF: Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 XR Di LD
Exakta: Meyer-Optik Trioplan 50/2.9, Primagon 35/4.5
M42: Sigma Mini Wide 28/2.8, Auto Chinon 28/2.8, Meyer-Optik Lydith 30/3.5, Pentacon Electric 29/2.8, Mir 1b 37/2.8, Super-Takumar 50/1.4, Meyer-Optik Oreston 50 f/1.8, Auto Yashinon 50/2, CZJ Tessar T 50/2.8, E. Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Meyer-Optik Primotar E 50/3.5, Industar 50-2 50/3.5, SMC Takumar 55/2, CZJ Biotar 58/2, Helios 44 58 f/2, Jupiter-9 85 f/2, Meyer-Optik 85/3.5, Super-Takumar 105/2.8, Accura Super Tc 135/2.8, Pentacon Zebra 135/2.8, Jupiter-11 135 f/4, Chinon MC Auto 200/3.5, Accura Supertel Tc 200/4.5, Soligor C/D Macro+Zoom 80-200/4.5
F-mount: Nikon Series E 28/2.8, 50/1.8, 100/2.8, Nikkor-S 35/2.8, Nikkor-H.C 50/2, Nikkor-H 85/1.8
Topcon: RE Auto Topcor 35/2.8, RE. Auto Topcor 58/1.8, RE. Auto Topcor 135/3.5
OM: Zuiko Auto-S 50/1. |
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chris_zeel
Joined: 21 Jan 2013 Posts: 136 Location: Amsterdam, Netherlands
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Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:34 pm Post subject: |
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chris_zeel wrote:
Anyone?
Or am I being stupid..? _________________ DSLR: Canon 6D, Canon 400D
SLR: Praktica MTL5, Topcon RE-2, Topcon RE Super, Nikon EM, Chinon CE-3 Memotron, Pentacon F, Zenit 12-XP
Rangefinder: Zorki 4K, Ricoh 500G, Olympus 35 SP, Neoca 2S
Folder: Afga Isolette-I
Compact: Olympus mju-I
AF: Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 XR Di LD
Exakta: Meyer-Optik Trioplan 50/2.9, Primagon 35/4.5
M42: Sigma Mini Wide 28/2.8, Auto Chinon 28/2.8, Meyer-Optik Lydith 30/3.5, Pentacon Electric 29/2.8, Mir 1b 37/2.8, Super-Takumar 50/1.4, Meyer-Optik Oreston 50 f/1.8, Auto Yashinon 50/2, CZJ Tessar T 50/2.8, E. Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Meyer-Optik Primotar E 50/3.5, Industar 50-2 50/3.5, SMC Takumar 55/2, CZJ Biotar 58/2, Helios 44 58 f/2, Jupiter-9 85 f/2, Meyer-Optik 85/3.5, Super-Takumar 105/2.8, Accura Super Tc 135/2.8, Pentacon Zebra 135/2.8, Jupiter-11 135 f/4, Chinon MC Auto 200/3.5, Accura Supertel Tc 200/4.5, Soligor C/D Macro+Zoom 80-200/4.5
F-mount: Nikon Series E 28/2.8, 50/1.8, 100/2.8, Nikkor-S 35/2.8, Nikkor-H.C 50/2, Nikkor-H 85/1.8
Topcon: RE Auto Topcor 35/2.8, RE. Auto Topcor 58/1.8, RE. Auto Topcor 135/3.5
OM: Zuiko Auto-S 50/1. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:40 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
I never worry about rotational orientation when I put a lens back together. Some folks say a lens must be colimated after disassembly and reassembly, but I wonder about that. I've taken apart and put back together a lot of lenses, and all of them were constructed so that the glass elements could sit in the tubes in one way only, and it's always a precise fit; no wiggle room. It simply wasn't possible to mis-align an element unless one was being incredibly fumble-fingered. So, no, I wouldn't worry about it. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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