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MatthewOsbornePhotography
 Joined: 30 Dec 2012 Posts: 154 Location: Coventry, UK
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 Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:17 pm Post subject: How long does diluted fixer last? Answer here.. |
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 Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:17 pm Post subject: How long does diluted fixer last? Answer here.. |
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MatthewOsbornePhotography wrote:
This is a question I never seem to find a realistic answer to so here is my 2p worth from my own experiences -
http://matthewosbornephotography.wordpress.com/2013/04/30/film-photography-how-long-does-fixer-last
..and a picture for you too
Yuliya, UKraine with ARAX by MatthewOsbornePhotography_, on Flickr _________________ Regards
Matt
Weddings & Engagements: http://leicaweddingphotographer.co.uk/
Website: http://www.matthewosbornephotography.co.uk
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berraneck
 Joined: 24 May 2009 Posts: 972 Location: prague, czech republic
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 Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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 Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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berraneck wrote:
hi matthew,
you write that you keep film in fixer for 20 minutes. this does not make sense, as the time needed for proper fixing is no more than 6-7 minutes . with stopbath and rapid fixer, 4 minutes can be enough.
next thing about fixer lifetime - it is hugely prolonged when using stop bath and if stored properly (airtight, dark bottle in constant ambient temperature). anyway, nice picture;) _________________ equipment doesn´t count, good photographs do |
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MatthewOsbornePhotography
 Joined: 30 Dec 2012 Posts: 154 Location: Coventry, UK
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 Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:51 am Post subject: Re: Fxing time.. my thinking behind my madness |
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 Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:51 am Post subject: Re: Fxing time.. my thinking behind my madness |
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MatthewOsbornePhotography wrote:
Re. http://matthewosbornephotography.wordpress.com/2013/04/30/film-photography-how-long-does-fixer-last
Thanks for your very valid comments and thoughts. Glad you liked the photo
The reason I use a fixing time of 20mins is:
1) I rather play it save and have pictures rather than no pictures.
2) I realise I am probably using fixer far longer than I should so I think that if less active components (as some exhauted with previous films) I need to leave it to fix for longer
3) I rarely agitate. I do 2 or 3 turns at the start to ensure no bubbles and that's it. The fixer next to the film therefore in theory works to exhaustion therefore leaving for a longer duration is safer.
I realise it is a wacky method but stand fixing and stand developing suits my lack of free time well so I can then spend any time I do have taking photos.
I will paste more blog post links when I describe my developing methods soon if interested. _________________ Regards
Matt
Weddings & Engagements: http://leicaweddingphotographer.co.uk/
Website: http://www.matthewosbornephotography.co.uk
Blog: https://MrLeica.com
Social Networks
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/32681588@N03/
Facebook Profile: https://www.facebook.com/matthewosbornephotographycouk
LinkedIn: http://www.linkedin.com/in/matthewosbornephotography
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LeicaM9/M8/M3/M2/D800/Rolleiflex SL66E/Mamiya RZ67 ProII/Mamiya M645 1000S/Fuji GF670/Fujica GS645/PentaconSix/ARAX-CM/Nikon FM/Yashica MG-1/Moskva-5/Voigtlander Bessa R3A |
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iangreenhalgh1
 Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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 Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 10:45 am Post subject: |
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 Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 10:45 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
I tend to leave films in the fixer for a while, I'm forgetful sometimes. I keep the fixer in a 2 litre plastic bottle, been using the same batch for nearly 6 months now, it still works fine. I don't worry about it because if something isn't fixed enough due to exhausted fixer, just mix up a new batch and fix the film again, done that a few times, never had an issue, touch wood. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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berraneck
 Joined: 24 May 2009 Posts: 972 Location: prague, czech republic
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 Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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 Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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berraneck wrote:
matthew, I am glad you´re sharing your experience, however without proper explanation it´s quite confusing for newbies. 20min stand fixing is not better than 5min fixing with agitation. when using exhausted fixer, prolonging fixing time is not 100% reliable solution. I don´t understand this, because price of homemade fixer is just funny cheap. _________________ equipment doesn´t count, good photographs do |
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MatthewOsbornePhotography
 Joined: 30 Dec 2012 Posts: 154 Location: Coventry, UK
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 Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 1:53 pm Post subject: Re: |
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 Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 1:53 pm Post subject: Re: |
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MatthewOsbornePhotography wrote:
| berraneck wrote: |
| matthew, I am glad you´re sharing your experience, however without proper explanation it´s quite confusing for newbies. 20min stand fixing is not better than 5min fixing with agitation. when using exhausted fixer, prolonging fixing time is not 100% reliable solution. I don´t understand this, because price of homemade fixer is just funny cheap. |
Hi thanks for comment. I was not aiming to confuse. Yes I agree my method is not mainstream so perhaps is not great for newbies but as per the previous post I have found 20mins works for me as it means I do not need to agitate and can forget for 20mins then return. Agitating on the minute throughout the duration for developer and fixer (for example) can be quite time consuming if developing multiple rolls.
As for cost I base my thought on fact that 1L of say tmax fixer costs £13 approx (in UK) + £5 + shipping. Xtol costs £8 for 5L (if use as stock and not at 1:1, 1:2, 1:3) + shipping as a comparison and Rodinal is super cheap.
Homemade fixer I have not tried.. _________________ Regards
Matt
Weddings & Engagements: http://leicaweddingphotographer.co.uk/
Website: http://www.matthewosbornephotography.co.uk
Blog: https://MrLeica.com
Social Networks
Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/32681588@N03/
Facebook Profile: https://www.facebook.com/matthewosbornephotographycouk
LinkedIn: http://www.linkedin.com/in/matthewosbornephotography
Twitter: https://www.twitter.com/MrLeicaCom
Instagram: http://instagram.com/MrLeicaCom
Google+: https://plus.google.com/u/0/+MattOsbornePhotography/
LeicaM9/M8/M3/M2/D800/Rolleiflex SL66E/Mamiya RZ67 ProII/Mamiya M645 1000S/Fuji GF670/Fujica GS645/PentaconSix/ARAX-CM/Nikon FM/Yashica MG-1/Moskva-5/Voigtlander Bessa R3A |
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berraneck
 Joined: 24 May 2009 Posts: 972 Location: prague, czech republic
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 Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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 Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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berraneck wrote:
http://www.jackspcs.com/tf2.htm
approx. £2/liter _________________ equipment doesn´t count, good photographs do |
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ForenSeil
 Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2731 Location: Kappeln, Schleswig-Holstein, Germany.
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 Posted: Thu May 02, 2013 10:03 am Post subject: |
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 Posted: Thu May 02, 2013 10:03 am Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
Ammonium thiosulphate based (=fast) fixers are more harmful to the silver in the emulsion than sodium thiosulphate based fixers, if the films stays too long in the fixer.
If you wan't to go safe/use long fixing times, you should take an sodium thiosulphate based one
(or make your own fixer from pure sodium thiosulphate and destilled water - it's cheaper anyway).
You can find it dirt cheap on Ebay etc. and often as chlorine killer in hardware/pool stores etc.
http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_odkw=%28sodium+thiosulphate%2C+natrium+thiosulfat%29&_osacat=0&_from=R40&LH_PrefLoc=2&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=%28sodium+thiosulphate%2C+natriumthiosulfat%29&_sacat=0
Pure crystalline thiosulfates does never get bad as long as it's stored in darkness and sealed from air.
Sodium thiosulfate fixers aremore stable in solution than ammonium thiosulphate fixers but both are pretty stable if stored airtight. _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Laowa 100/2.8 2x, Nikon 200/2 ED |
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