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Prometheus
 Joined: 27 Feb 2008 Posts: 890 Location: Örebro, Sweden
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 Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2025 5:53 pm Post subject: Help with stripe light phenomenon |
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 Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2025 5:53 pm Post subject: Help with stripe light phenomenon |
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Prometheus wrote:
I recently shot a birthday celebration. Some of my images has these stripes of greenish dark and I can't figure out where they come from. I have not seen them on any other occasion.
I hade a mix of lenses with and did not keep track of which was used when.
Lenses used on my Sony A6400:
Sigma 18-50mm f2.8 DC DN Contemporary
Yashica ML 50mm 1.4
Asahi Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 85mm f1.8 (in very bad cosmetci shape)
I had a second shooter - my daughter, with a Canon EOS 60D and EF 50mm 1.8. None of her images had this problem (she did a good job by the way).
I suspect it was my Asahi Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 85mm f1.8, which is in pretty bad shape. l thought it was just cosmetic and still functioning, but maybe it's not.
Does anyone have a solution to this mystery?
 _________________ Photo Instagram | Flickr | Mattiaswirf.art |
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visualopsins
 Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11638 Location: California
Expire: 2027-07-11
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 Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2025 6:12 pm Post subject: |
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 Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2025 6:12 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
I guess led lights. Some dimmers make leds flicker -- human vision exhibits hysteresis, we can't see it, but the camera does Wildlife can see it too -- ever notice how wildlife often stare directly into trail cams?  |
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Prometheus
 Joined: 27 Feb 2008 Posts: 890 Location: Örebro, Sweden
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 Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2025 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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 Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2025 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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Prometheus wrote:
| visualopsins wrote: |
I guess led lights. Some dimmers make leds flicker -- human vision exhibits hysteresis, we can't see it, but the camera does Wildlife can see it too -- ever notice how wildlife often stare directly into trail cams?  |
Yes I was thinking about that, but I found it weird that the Sony would pick that up but not the Canon. And it turns with the angle of the camera - landscape format the lines are horizontal, portrait format the lines are vertical.
But now when I think of it none of the images near the open door, with sunlight coming in, has the lines.
I only had that problem with video before. _________________ Photo Instagram | Flickr | Mattiaswirf.art |
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visualopsins
 Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11638 Location: California
Expire: 2027-07-11
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 Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2025 6:51 pm Post subject: |
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 Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2025 6:51 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
| Prometheus wrote: |
| visualopsins wrote: |
I guess led lights. Some dimmers make leds flicker -- human vision exhibits hysteresis, we can't see it, but the camera does Wildlife can see it too -- ever notice how wildlife often stare directly into trail cams?  |
Yes I was thinking about that, but I found it weird that the Sony would pick that up but not the Canon. And it turns with the angle of the camera - landscape format the lines are horizontal, portrait format the lines are vertical.
But now when I think of it none of the images near the open door, with sunlight coming in, has the lines.
I only had that problem with video before. |
Guessing different in-camera processing algorithms. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Solinon 1:5.6/18 ASPH.
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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stevemark
 Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 5303 Location: Switzerland
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 Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2025 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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 Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2025 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
An annoying problem which is definitely connected to
a) a flickering light source (such as LED or neon tubes) and
b) the sequential readout of the sensor (not all lines are read at the same time).
Can be solved e. g. by longer exposure times ...
S _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
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Prometheus
 Joined: 27 Feb 2008 Posts: 890 Location: Örebro, Sweden
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 Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2025 4:45 pm Post subject: |
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 Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2025 4:45 pm Post subject: |
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Prometheus wrote:
Thank you for the answers  _________________ Photo Instagram | Flickr | Mattiaswirf.art |
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RokkorDoctor
 Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1559 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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 Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2025 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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 Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2025 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
I've had this same issue with my SONY A7S when shooting under some types of LED lighting.
Old-fashioned tungsten lighting is still our friend in that respect; sadly even National Trust and English Heritage are switching much of the interior illumination of their historic properties to this type of flickering LED lighting, which can make available light shooting a royal pain in the **** (flash photography and tripods are prohibited in most of their properties). _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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visualopsins
 Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11638 Location: California
Expire: 2027-07-11
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 Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2025 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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 Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2025 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
| RokkorDoctor wrote: |
I've had this same issue with my SONY A7S when shooting under some types of LED lighting.
Old-fashioned tungsten lighting is still our friend in that respect; sadly even National Trust and English Heritage are switching much of the interior illumination of their historic properties to this type of flickering LED lighting, which can make available light shooting a royal pain in the **** (flash photography and tripods are prohibited in most of their properties). |
Mixed lighting is the worst! Some of the banding could be due to low shutter speed and flickering leds. The yellow-green banding is likely due to presence of fluorescent lighting. Auto White Balance is no help with mixed lighting. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Solinon 1:5.6/18 ASPH.
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Doc Sharptail
 Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 1475 Location: Winnipeg Canada
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 Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2025 3:29 pm Post subject: |
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 Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2025 3:29 pm Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
| RokkorDoctor wrote: |
I've had this same issue with my SONY A7S when shooting under some types of LED lighting.
Old-fashioned tungsten lighting is still our friend in that respect; sadly even National Trust and English Heritage are switching much of the interior illumination of their historic properties to this type of flickering LED lighting, which can make available light shooting a royal pain in the **** (flash photography and tripods are prohibited in most of their properties). |
Flickering L.E.D. lighting can be overcome with the correct (for L.E.D. lamps) electronic ballast in the fixture. They will flicker when used with a T-8 electronic fluorescent ballast. The T number for them escapes me right now- they were just coming out when I retired.
The fixture also must be wired jumper-less.
-D.S. _________________
D-810, F2, FTN, FT-3 in Black
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f2 H.C. nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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