View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
adoi
Joined: 14 Jun 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Indonesia
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:13 am Post subject: [HELP] Newbie questions on Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 |
|
|
adoi wrote:
I just received my Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 yesterday and there are few wierd flaws that I need to clarify before I complain the seller...
1. The aperture ring turns the other way around opposite the f-numbers, so now f/16 has the widest opening. I'm pretty sure the Russian don't read the other way around, so I guess this is wrong?
2. The aperture ring doesn't click, it turns like a wheel... very smoothly! like from the widest aperture to the smallest aperture without any stops... Do old Russian lenses behave like that?
3. The aperture blades are very oily... does this mean they open up the lens and oil the blades?
I know this kind of lenses are cheap but I don't like to be cheated. Thanks for anyone willing to answer my questions... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:35 am Post subject: Re: [HELP] Newbie questions on Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 |
|
|
my_photography wrote:
adoi wrote: |
1. The aperture ring turns the other way around opposite the f-numbers, so now f/16 has the widest opening. I'm pretty sure the Russian don't read the other way around, so I guess this is wrong?
|
This is asked many times. There is nothing wrong. I don't have 44-2 but other version also have the same design. Let me see if I can able to search the answer for you later.
Quote: |
3. The aperture blades are very oily... does this mean they open up the lens and oil the blades?
|
Oil blades are very common with Russian lens. This has to do with the lubricant they used. There is nothing wrong with the oil and the oil does not affect the photos. _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
sichko
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 2475 Location: South West UK
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:37 am Post subject: |
|
|
sichko wrote:
There is a ring on the front of the lens which carries the numbers. This one turns - with clicks. The idea is that you (i) use this ring to set the working aperture, (ii) use the second ring (the one that moves smoothly without clicks) to open the aperture to wide open, (iii) focus, (iv) use the second ring to close down the aperture to the working aperture and (v) take the shot.
Oil on the blades is normal. This lens was designed to have, and built with, oil on the blades. Many other Russian lenses, e.g. Jupiter 9 and Tair 11A were designed and built in this way.
The features you describe are normal. _________________ John |
|
Back to top |
|
|
my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:42 am Post subject: |
|
|
my_photography wrote:
sichko wrote: |
There is a ring on the front of the lens which carries the numbers. This one turns - with clicks. The idea is that you (i) use this ring to set the working aperture, (ii) use the second ring (the one that moves smoothly without clicks) to open the aperture to wide open, (iii) focus, (iv) use the second ring to close down the aperture to the working aperture and (v) take the shot.
The features you describe are normal. |
Well said. It would have taken me way too many sentences to try and explain it. _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
Last edited by my_photography on Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:48 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
sichko
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 2475 Location: South West UK
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:43 am Post subject: Re: [HELP] Newbie questions on Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 |
|
|
sichko wrote:
my_photography wrote: |
This has to do with the lubricant they used. |
The oil is the lubricant. It is placed there deliberately to lubricate the blades. It is not leakage from the lubricant which is placed on the focusing helicoids. _________________ John |
|
Back to top |
|
|
my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:48 am Post subject: Re: [HELP] Newbie questions on Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 |
|
|
my_photography wrote:
sichko wrote: |
my_photography wrote: |
This has to do with the lubricant they used. |
The oil is the lubricant. It is placed there deliberately to lubricate the blades. It is not leakage from the lubricant which is placed on the focusing helicoids. |
You are absolutely correct. Actually I was thinking type of lubricant when I said that. Does it make any different - type of lubricant? _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
adoi
Joined: 14 Jun 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Indonesia
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:57 am Post subject: |
|
|
adoi wrote:
I love this forum a lot...
Few days ago I post a thread asking about a feature in my Tak, and I got answers in just a few minutes... likewise this thread, all you people here are just simply the best!
Thanks everyone for the answers, especially sichko who has summed up the answer very well. If I hadn't asked these questions here, I might have given the seller a bad feedback... Thanks again guys!
Ow yes, any suggestions on how to get the swirling bokeh all the time? hhahahaha... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vulko
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:41 am Post subject: |
|
|
vulko wrote:
I also have a 44-2. All the same here, nothing to worry about. The apperture ring just turns around, no stops. The numbers mark up is wrong, but it's no big deal, just 2 much vodka while designing this lens
If those issues bother you, get 44m-x version. I'm selling 44m and 44m-4 if you interested. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
adoi
Joined: 14 Jun 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Indonesia
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 11:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
adoi wrote:
vulko wrote: |
just 2 much vodka while designing this lens |
That is the most reasonable thing you'll ever get to answer this mystery! huahuahua |
|
Back to top |
|
|
peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 11:56 am Post subject: |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
A picture says a thousand words
_________________ Peter - Moderator |
|
Back to top |
|
|
adoi
Joined: 14 Jun 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Indonesia
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
adoi wrote:
Thanks a lot peterqd! That 44-2 in the picture looks a lot like mine...
Now I'm sure that my 44-2 is the same as the others, I thought mine was frankensteined... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 2:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Excalibur wrote:
erm the 44m is quite normal, but some of these Russian m42 lenses wont fit on a Pentax. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 4:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
adoi wrote: |
Ow yes, any suggestions on how to get the swirling bokeh all the time? hhahahaha... |
The swirly effect is best seen when there are lots of out-of-focus highlights such as shiny leaves or water reflections in the background, so you need to use a fairly large aperture and have a reasonable distance between your subject and the scene behind it.
A preset lens like this lens is fun to use with the camera in Av mode. I keep the preset aperture dial (the clicky outer one) at f16 and then use the stop-down dial (the smooth inner one) to adjust the aperture to achieve the bokeh I want. The camera adjusts the shutter speed for correct exposure automatically. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
|
Back to top |
|
|
adoi
Joined: 14 Jun 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Indonesia
|
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 7:52 am Post subject: |
|
|
adoi wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
A preset lens like this lens is fun to use with the camera in Av mode. I keep the preset aperture dial (the clicky outer one) at f16 and then use the stop-down dial (the smooth inner one) to adjust the aperture to achieve the bokeh I want. The camera adjusts the shutter speed for correct exposure automatically. |
Wow! thanks for the advice. I've been using "M" all this time without knowing "Av" could help me choosing the right shutter speed. I thought the metering sensor would not meter correctly since the aperture is always stuck at f/1.4, but now after I tried it in "Av", it really does the metering well. Thanks again! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|