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Hellicoid Grease Recommendation
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2022 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
visualopsins wrote:
Anybody try PFPE-PTFE greases?

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B072Q8JLHH/ref=asc_df_B00MWLD958



Expensive, but people sell it on etsy in small quantities. Apparently for mechanical keyboards. Gamers would be interested in that.
https://www.etsy.com/nl/listing/974317624/5-gram-krytox-gpl-205-g0-voor


PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2022 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
D1N0 wrote:
visualopsins wrote:
Anybody try PFPE-PTFE greases?

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B072Q8JLHH/ref=asc_df_B00MWLD958



Expensive, but people sell it on etsy in small quantities. Apparently for mechanical keyboards. Gamers would be interested in that.
https://www.etsy.com/nl/listing/974317624/5-gram-krytox-gpl-205-g0-voor


I heard about it from that quarter LOL I'm typing on Logitech K120: https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2022/11/cherrys-new-mechanical-switch-hails-from-80s-terminal-keyboards/


PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2022 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
visualopsins wrote:
Anybody try PFPE-PTFE greases?

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B072Q8JLHH/ref=asc_df_B00MWLD958

Quote:
Product Description

Krytox GPL 205 grease are thickened with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). This special high efficiency thickener has a melting point of 325 degree C (617 degree F) and has low molecular weight and sub-micron (0. 2 m) particle size for higher performance in bearings. Krytox GPL 205 grease is a white buttery grease with all of the same properties as the Krytox GPL 105 oil that it is are made from, but it is in a grease form. The standard grease consistency is NLGI grade 2 penetration (265–295). Softer or harder NLGI penetration grades can be made by special order. Krytox GPL 205 is food grade NSF H-1 Rated for incidental food contact. To learn more about applications regarding food grade greases click on the link below. As with the full line of Krytox lubricants, Krytox oils and greases deliver superior performance with advanced features of high-temperature stability, nonflammability, and chemical and biological inertness. Krytox lubricants will not carbonize or form gummy deposits that typically cause failures, nor will they evaporate. Therefore, maintenance costs can be significantly reduced.


That sounds interesting.

What gives me slight pause for thought is that this PFPE/PTFE lubricant/thickener combination has apparently been around and in use in the aero industry for a while (~30 years according to Wikipedia), yet it has not been marketed for use in optics helicoids for all that period, as far as I know. If it were a great choice for optics helicoids, I would have expected it to have been widely used for that by now.

MicroLubrol sell this PFPE/PTFE grease as Ultimox-226 (mainly for automotive uses), as well as their Helimax-XP PAO/Lithium Stearate/PTFE grease (specifically for optics helicoids), so one has to wonder why they wouldn't designate their Ultimox-226 as suitable for lubrication of optics helicoids also, especially considering it is more expensive than their Helimax-XP grease.

http://www.microlubrol.com/MicroLubrol-Ultimox-226-Perfluoropolyether-PFPE-PTFE-Grease-20-g.aspx
http://www.microlubrol.com/MicroLubrol-Helimax-XP-Camera-Lens-Telescope-Optical-Instrument-Grease-2-oz.aspx

It might be prudent to find out how these PFPE/PTFE greases behave when the PFPE base lubricant migrates (which it will do eventually), and encounters polished glass surfaces/optical coatings/optical cements...

Most dedicated helicoid lubricants that I am aware of these days use a PAO (polyalphaolefin) synthetic base oil, with a variety of options for the thickener & dry-lubricant additive(s)...


PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2022 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
RokkorDoctor wrote:
visualopsins wrote:
Anybody try PFPE-PTFE greases?

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B072Q8JLHH/ref=asc_df_B00MWLD958

Quote:
Product Description

Krytox GPL 205 grease are thickened with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). This special high efficiency thickener has a melting point of 325 degree C (617 degree F) and has low molecular weight and sub-micron (0. 2 m) particle size for higher performance in bearings. Krytox GPL 205 grease is a white buttery grease with all of the same properties as the Krytox GPL 105 oil that it is are made from, but it is in a grease form. The standard grease consistency is NLGI grade 2 penetration (265–295). Softer or harder NLGI penetration grades can be made by special order. Krytox GPL 205 is food grade NSF H-1 Rated for incidental food contact. To learn more about applications regarding food grade greases click on the link below. As with the full line of Krytox lubricants, Krytox oils and greases deliver superior performance with advanced features of high-temperature stability, nonflammability, and chemical and biological inertness. Krytox lubricants will not carbonize or form gummy deposits that typically cause failures, nor will they evaporate. Therefore, maintenance costs can be significantly reduced.


That sounds interesting.

What gives me slight pause for thought is that this PFPE/PTFE lubricant/thickener combination has apparently been around and in use in the aero industry for a while (~30 years according to Wikipedia), yet it has not been marketed for use in optics helicoids for all that period, as far as I know. If it were a great choice for optics helicoids, I would have expected it to have been widely used for that by now.

MicroLubrol sell this PFPE/PTFE grease as Ultimox-226 (mainly for automotive uses), as well as their Helimax-XP PAO/Lithium Stearate/PTFE grease (specifically for optics helicoids), so one has to wonder why they wouldn't designate their Ultimox-226 as suitable for lubrication of optics helicoids also, especially considering it is more expensive than their Helimax-XP grease.

http://www.microlubrol.com/MicroLubrol-Ultimox-226-Perfluoropolyether-PFPE-PTFE-Grease-20-g.aspx
http://www.microlubrol.com/MicroLubrol-Helimax-XP-Camera-Lens-Telescope-Optical-Instrument-Grease-2-oz.aspx

It might be prudent to find out how these PFPE/PTFE greases behave when the PFPE base lubricant migrates (which it will do eventually), and encounters polished glass surfaces/optical coatings/optical cements...

Most dedicated helicoid lubricants that I am aware of these days use a PAO (polyalphaolefin) synthetic base oil, with a variety of options for the thickener & dry-lubricant additive(s)...


The answer is in the Helimax description:

MicroLubrol wrote:
- BUT... is Krytox BETTER? You may have heard of DuPont Krytox as being the best grease available. Krytox is a superb (and superbly expensive!) grease and it is the grease of choice for many applications, but it is not recommended for alumimun parts. For some reason, perhaps the softness of aluminum, Krytox is not the best performing grease for that metal. If your helicoid, as many do, has or can be in contact with aluminum components (or you are not sure if it does or not), Krytox may not be a good choice. In addition to it not being as suitable because of its NLGI 2 consistency which can cause some drag, Krytox is also virtually impossible to completely remove from a surface without a special fluorocarbon solvent sold by DuPont. If getting your helicoid completely clean between regreasing is a must, or if you are afraid that some of it may come in contact with the lens or other parts in your instrument that do not need lubrication, Krytox may not be the best choice of grease.


PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2022 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
D1N0 wrote:
The answer is in the Helimax description:

MicroLubrol wrote:
- BUT... is Krytox BETTER? You may have heard of DuPont Krytox as being the best grease available. Krytox is a superb (and superbly expensive!) grease and it is the grease of choice for many applications, but it is not recommended for alumimun parts. For some reason, perhaps the softness of aluminum, Krytox is not the best performing grease for that metal. If your helicoid, as many do, has or can be in contact with aluminum components (or you are not sure if it does or not), Krytox may not be a good choice. In addition to it not being as suitable because of its NLGI 2 consistency which can cause some drag, Krytox is also virtually impossible to completely remove from a surface without a special fluorocarbon solvent sold by DuPont. If getting your helicoid completely clean between regreasing is a must, or if you are afraid that some of it may come in contact with the lens or other parts in your instrument that do not need lubrication, Krytox may not be the best choice of grease.


Good spot! Like 1 small

I hadn't read that description for a while (only when I bought the Helimax-XP some time ago). I wonder whether they added that note later, but I may simply have forgotten reading it then.

Still, if anyone is willing to get some Krytox, try it out on a non-valuable lens, and report, that would be appreciated. Especially what happens if you accidentally get some on the glass.


PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2022 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
RokkorDoctor wrote:
D1N0 wrote:
The answer is in the Helimax description:

MicroLubrol wrote:
- BUT... is Krytox BETTER? You may have heard of DuPont Krytox as being the best grease available. Krytox is a superb (and superbly expensive!) grease and it is the grease of choice for many applications, but it is not recommended for alumimun parts. For some reason, perhaps the softness of aluminum, Krytox is not the best performing grease for that metal. If your helicoid, as many do, has or can be in contact with aluminum components (or you are not sure if it does or not), Krytox may not be a good choice. In addition to it not being as suitable because of its NLGI 2 consistency which can cause some drag, Krytox is also virtually impossible to completely remove from a surface without a special fluorocarbon solvent sold by DuPont. If getting your helicoid completely clean between regreasing is a must, or if you are afraid that some of it may come in contact with the lens or other parts in your instrument that do not need lubrication, Krytox may not be the best choice of grease.


Good spot! Like 1 small

I hadn't read that description for a while (only when I bought the Helimax-XP some time ago). I wonder whether they added that note later, but I may simply have forgotten reading it then.

Still, if anyone is willing to get some Krytox, try it out on a non-valuable lens, and report, that would be appreciated. Especially what happens if you accidentally get some on the glass.


Like 1 Like 1 +1


PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2022 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
In a pinch you can use plumbing grease or anal lube. *
















* This is not serious advice.


PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2022 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have used LaBelle 106 grease with PTFE. From the model railroad marketplace. Rather viscous. Hasn't separated on me. But I've also bought some proper helical grease for future use.


PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2022 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
John Shriver wrote:
I have used LaBelle 106 grease with PTFE. From the model railroad marketplace. Rather viscous. Hasn't separated on me. But I've also bought some proper helical grease for future use.


Viscous grease has its place.

Not for helicoids, but for greasing aperture rings etc., for which I mostly use Japan Hobby Tools S40.

Very viscous grease is recommended for the helicoid keys & keyways (the metal tabs and slot locking the rotational movement of the linear extending half of the helicoid.) I generally use Japan Hobby Tools S1500 or S3000 here.

Extremely viscous grease is recommended for the sliding bearings of microscope focus tracks (hard to find these days in small quantities for the hobbyist; Rocol Kilopoise used to be an available candidate, now discontinued).


PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2023 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
For canon FD lenses I’m looking for grease for the focus gear.

I found this:

https://www.conrad.com/p/aeronix-ptfe-paste-35-g-829602

Is this a proper one to use?

Or shall I order 3346 from losimol?

What would you advice?

Thanks!

Tim


PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2023 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
TvdMad wrote:
For canon FD lenses I’m looking for grease for the focus gear.

I found this:

https://www.conrad.com/p/aeronix-ptfe-paste-35-g-829602

Is this a proper one to use?

Or shall I order 3346 from losimol?

What would you advice?

Thanks!

Tim


I would stay clear of any grease containing silicone; that is a small molecule which migrates everywhere, not what you want in a lens.

I would stick with a dedicated optical helicoid grease such as Helimax-XP from microlubrol (US), S30 from JapanHobbyTools (Japanese), or a helicoid grease from Polar Bear Camera (UK) or Pig Iron (which I suspect is the same grease as available from JapanHobbyTools)

Others members may know of other good sources/alternatives.


PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2023 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
What about nyogel grease from micro tools? Anyone tried em before?


PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2023 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ok, thanks for your advice.

Does anybody have experience with Losimol / Losoid?
(Shipping and price is far more interesting, then ordering form UK or US)

But they have a very wide range:


Website
https://www.losimol.de/en/products/#toggle-id-1

And somewhere in this topic the Losoid 3346 was suggested for Canon, and I see on the Canon site a product safety sheet on this product,
but is that also the one for lenses (focus gear)?


Best regards,
Tim


PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2023 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
TvdMad wrote:
Ok, thanks for your advice.

Does anybody have experience with Losimol / Losoid?


I have the Losimol 3345, 3346 and 33B. Those greases were suggested by Losimol people when calling them and asking for advice, specifically for re-lubing the focusing threads. I have been using those on quite a few lenses, mainly Minolta and Konica MF gear.

S


PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2023 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi Steve,

Could you explain what the difference is between 3345, 3346 & 33B?

I now ordered 3346 & 3340.

Best Tim


PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2023 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
TvdMad wrote:
Hi Steve,

Could you explain what the difference is between 3345, 3346 & 33B?

I now ordered 3346 & 3340.

Best Tim


Where have you ordered from? A link? Thanks


PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2023 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
kiddo wrote:
TvdMad wrote:
Hi Steve,

Could you explain what the difference is between 3345, 3346 & 33B?

I now ordered 3346 & 3340.

Best Tim


Where have you ordered from? A link? Thanks


Have you already found it somewhere? I'm also interested in trying out that grease


PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2023 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
For those looking to relube Canon FD lenses, you really need to determine first whether it's a bi-metal (most of the "old" FD and some of the higher end nFD lenses) or all-aluminum (many of the lower end nFD lenses) helical.

The all-aluminum ones absolutely NEED a molybdenum-containing grease, or your relubing adventure is likely to end in sadness when the tiniest piece of grit eventually enters your helical and the aluminum surfaces end up shredding each other. In fact, ANY lens that you open that has grayish-black original grease should be relubed with moly, since that's what it was designed to use. The moly fills in tiny imperfections in the aluminum helical surfaces and ensures a smooth glide, even if the carrier oil on your grease dries out.

If there's a grease you otherwise prefer that doesn't have it, you can actually buy solid molybdenum disulfide and dope your existing grease with it.


PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2023 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
BrianSVP wrote:
For those looking to relube Canon FD lenses, you really need to determine first whether it's a bi-metal (most of the "old" FD and some of the higher end nFD lenses) or all-aluminum (many of the lower end nFD lenses) helical.

The all-aluminum ones absolutely NEED a molybdenum-containing grease, or your relubing adventure is likely to end in sadness when the tiniest piece of grit eventually enters your helical and the aluminum surfaces end up shredding each other. In fact, ANY lens that you open that has grayish-black original grease should be relubed with moly, since that's what it was designed to use. The moly fills in tiny imperfections in the aluminum helical surfaces and ensures a smooth glide, even if the carrier oil on your grease dries out.

If there's a grease you otherwise prefer that doesn't have it, you can actually buy solid molybdenum disulfide and dope your existing grease with it.


Adding a dry-lube yourself to an existing grease I would not recommend for helicoids; it can affect grease stability and the exact amount added can be critical in this respect.

Alu/Alu Helicoids only need a good dry-lube additive; I don't think it has to be molybdenum disulfide per se. Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) is one of the better ones due to its excellent adherence to metal surfaces. However, Tungsten disulfide (WS2), graphite, and micronised teflon (PTFE) are also acceptable alternatives. But you are right that for aluminium-on-aluminium helicoids you absolutely have to have a dry-lube additive; using a grease without it will eventually end in tears.

The camera manufacturers always struggled to find a grease that was a) of the right consistency/viscosity and b) long-term stable. I suspect the MoS2 containing greases were merely a phase in that never-ending quest, and as such they were already being used in brass/brass and Alu/brass helicoids before the lighter Alu/Alu helicoids became more commonplace. But whereas brass/brass and Alu/brass helicoids could be used (and originally were used) relatively safely without a dry-lube additive, Alu/Alu helicoids cannot.

Molebdenum disulfide is a popular choice in the automotive industry as it is resistant to extremely high contact pressures, but that is not a situation you will encounter in helicoids. Still, whilst molybdenum disulfide would be my first choice, a purpose-made helicoid grease containing PTFE I'm also happy with, especially since purpose-made helicoid greases containing MoS2 vary from very-hard-to-find to impossible-to-obtain depending on one's location. It is odd that Losimol don't specify the dry-lubes used (if any) on their website, I would love to know what it is and how to get hold of them; I couldn't find any representative outlets in the UK.

These four dry-lubricants (MoS2, WS2, graphite & micronised PTFE) can be found in powdered form as a convenient set of four available for servicing printers, photocopiers etc., I keep one in my workshop for dry-lubricating e.g. the sliding surfaces between aperture actuator levers etc., and although they are small pots, they last for ages.

One word of warning re. molybdenum disulfide: if you get in onto your clothes or onto e.g. a leather couch, the dark grey stains will never come out. And the tiniest amount of spilt powder will result in a big stain. You have been warned!


PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2023 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Haha, yeah, I have a rug that bears witness to this observation that now permanently lives in the garage!

[quote="RokkorDoctor"

One word of warning re. molybdenum disulfide: if you get in onto your clothes or onto e.g. a leather couch, the dark grey stains will never come out. And the tiniest amount of spilt powder will result in a big stain. You have been warned![/quote]


PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2023 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
RokkorDoctor wrote:
BrianSVP wrote:
For those looking to relube Canon FD lenses, you really need to determine first whether it's a bi-metal (most of the "old" FD and some of the higher end nFD lenses) or all-aluminum (many of the lower end nFD lenses) helical.

The all-aluminum ones absolutely NEED a molybdenum-containing grease, or your relubing adventure is likely to end in sadness when the tiniest piece of grit eventually enters your helical and the aluminum surfaces end up shredding each other. In fact, ANY lens that you open that has grayish-black original grease should be relubed with moly, since that's what it was designed to use. The moly fills in tiny imperfections in the aluminum helical surfaces and ensures a smooth glide, even if the carrier oil on your grease dries out.

If there's a grease you otherwise prefer that doesn't have it, you can actually buy solid molybdenum disulfide and dope your existing grease with it.


Adding a dry-lube yourself to an existing grease I would not recommend for helicoids; it can affect grease stability and the exact amount added can be critical in this respect.

Alu/Alu Helicoids only need a good dry-lube additive; I don't think it has to be molybdenum disulfide per se. Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) is one of the better ones due to its excellent adherence to metal surfaces. However, Tungsten disulfide (WS2), graphite, and micronised teflon (PTFE) are also acceptable alternatives. But you are right that for aluminium-on-aluminium helicoids you absolutely have to have a dry-lube additive; using a grease without it will eventually end in tears.


OK this now this is interesting information since I always knew - from practical experience - that alu/brass helicoids feel much smoother than the (later) alu/alu helicoids. Quite a few people told me that this is nonsense - but I have several hundred lenses here, and my experience tells me otherwise.

Up to now I haven't used MoS2-containing lubes when re-lubing e. g. later Minolta MD-III lenses. What would you recommend for such alu/alu helicoids?

S


PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2023 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
stevemark wrote:
RokkorDoctor wrote:
BrianSVP wrote:
For those looking to relube Canon FD lenses, you really need to determine first whether it's a bi-metal (most of the "old" FD and some of the higher end nFD lenses) or all-aluminum (many of the lower end nFD lenses) helical.

The all-aluminum ones absolutely NEED a molybdenum-containing grease, or your relubing adventure is likely to end in sadness when the tiniest piece of grit eventually enters your helical and the aluminum surfaces end up shredding each other. In fact, ANY lens that you open that has grayish-black original grease should be relubed with moly, since that's what it was designed to use. The moly fills in tiny imperfections in the aluminum helical surfaces and ensures a smooth glide, even if the carrier oil on your grease dries out.

If there's a grease you otherwise prefer that doesn't have it, you can actually buy solid molybdenum disulfide and dope your existing grease with it.


Adding a dry-lube yourself to an existing grease I would not recommend for helicoids; it can affect grease stability and the exact amount added can be critical in this respect.

Alu/Alu Helicoids only need a good dry-lube additive; I don't think it has to be molybdenum disulfide per se. Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) is one of the better ones due to its excellent adherence to metal surfaces. However, Tungsten disulfide (WS2), graphite, and micronised teflon (PTFE) are also acceptable alternatives. But you are right that for aluminium-on-aluminium helicoids you absolutely have to have a dry-lube additive; using a grease without it will eventually end in tears.


OK this now this is interesting information since I always knew - from practical experience - that alu/brass helicoids feel much smoother than the (later) alu/alu helicoids. Quite a few people told me that this is nonsense - but I have several hundred lenses here, and my experience tells me otherwise.

Up to now I haven't used MoS2-containing lubes when re-lubing e. g. later Minolta MD-III lenses. What would you recommend for such alu/alu helicoids?

S


Fortunately I have not had to re-lube many alu/alu helicoids yet, which are mostly found in the MDIII lenses. Some MDIII lenses have an alu/GF-PC helicoid; one part aluminium, the other glass-filled polycarbonate (notably the MDIII 50/2 and I think also the MDIII 50/1.7). For the few alu/alu ones I have re-lubed I have used MicroLubrol Helimax-XP, which has a poly-alphaolefin synthetic base oil, lithium stearate thickener and has micronised teflon (PTFE) as a dry-lube additive.

http://www.microlubrol.com/MicroLubrol-Helimax-XP-Camera-Lens-Telescope-Optical-Instrument-Grease-1-oz.aspx

Helimax-XP is marketed specifically for lubricating lens helicoids, but it is generic in the sense that only one grade is available (NLGI 1); good for the majority of lenses, but a bit too thick for some. I am personally OK with a small handful of my lenses focusing a little stiff (but still smooth).

Your experience with alu/alu helicoids feeling less smooth will be correct for lenses where some of the base oil has disappeared (separation & migration / evaporation) or those that were possibly not lubricated with sufficient grease in the first place. Also, heavy not very well weight-balanced lenses can cause a lot higher contact pressures in the helicoid which is particularly detrimental to the feel of an alu/alu helicoid. When there is direct metal-to-metal surface contact alu/alu is one of the worst, as it galls/frets easily. Brass is very forgiving in this respect especially in a an alu/brass combination.

In my experience, for dry contact (= failed lubrication):

- alu/brass helicoid still feels very smooth and easy sliding, with virtually no stiction
- brass/brass (not seen too often) is still smooth, but has a bit more stiction and a bit increased risk of galling/fretting
- alu/alu has most stiction, feels far less smooth and it can gall/fret easily to the point of the helicoid feeling rough or even seizing solid. This is why a dry lubricant additive is so important for full aluminium helicoids.

On the other hand, when properly lubricated there shouldn't be much difference in feel; the metals can't see the molecular structure of the other surface through an intact lubricant film of sufficient thickness. What may matter is that of the cleaned, dry helicoids I have seen, the brass machined thread surfaces tend to look a bit smoother than the aluminium ones; maybe machining aluminium threads is more difficult due to aluminium work-hardening more quickly than brass (guessing here).

All helicoid threads really need to be fully covered in a lubricating film in order to:

1) prevent direct metal-to-metal contact
2) prevent oxidation of the thread surface
3) eliminate play/backlash in the focusing threads; the threads need to be machined with some clearance tolerance to prevent binding, which on a dry helicoid (failed lubrication) is large enough to be noticeable as focus inaccuracy/play at f/2 or larger apertures for most lenses


PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2023 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
On Ebay Pig Iron camera helicoid grease comes in several grades.


PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2023 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
On Ebay Pig Iron camera helicoid grease comes in several grades.


PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2023 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
e6filmuser wrote:
On Ebay Pig Iron camera helicoid grease comes in several grades.


Those have been around for a few years. The grades and colour coding are identical to that of the greases available from JapanHobbyTool. I already own a set from JapanHobbyTool so never bothered to buy the Pig Iron ones to compare. They are decent greases, again a poly-alphaolefin base oil with lithium stearate thickener. There is a "lubricant additive" but they don't disclose what that is...

See data sheets on the JapanHobbyTool website (scroll to bottom of page):

https://japanhobbytool.com/collections/camera-repair-material/products/hg
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