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rukmeister
Joined: 14 Aug 2010 Posts: 104 Location: Hobart, Australia
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:10 pm Post subject: Helios 44M Reassembly - help please |
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rukmeister wrote:
Well, I have this 44M that optically is perfect and has a nice clean and dry aperture, however it had a very very stiff focus ring. I pulled the mount off and my god! There was so much grease in there! Over everything, And dirty grease! God knows what was put in this thing and where that grease came from.
Anyway, disassembled, and cleaned out over a teaspoon of grease out (what the hell?!) It was all over everything inside the barrel. Sheesh.
So cleaned and regreased the focussing helicoid properly with an appropriate coating of white lithium grease. Started to reassemble, but I'm stuck at putting the aperture ring back on. I know there must be some trick to it, but damned if I can figure it out!
There are two bearings that sit on opposite sides of the barrel under the aperture ring - one is the click stops for 2/2.8/4 etc and the other is the half stops. Everytime I've tried to get the ring on one of the bearing slips out. I've been using a small amount of grease to hold the bearings in their recesses and trying to slip the ring back on over them.
Anyone done this before? There must be some trick to it right?
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sichko
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 2475 Location: South West UK
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:32 pm Post subject: |
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sichko wrote:
As you say, use a small amount of grease to hold the bearings. Place the aperture ring over one of these and push it as hard as you dare - to hold this bearing while you try to ease the ring over the second bearing. _________________ John |
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greg
Joined: 21 Mar 2009 Posts: 683
Expire: 2012-12-03
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:57 pm Post subject: |
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greg wrote:
+1 |
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rukmeister
Joined: 14 Aug 2010 Posts: 104 Location: Hobart, Australia
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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rukmeister wrote:
Thanks! That was exactly the tip I needed. Got it back on now. woohoo
Bit of a wipe down with alcohol and some ROR on the glass. Took a test shot and everything works great now. Even the click stops feel better now.
Though now I have to do it all again
I've put the focus markings and aperture markings on the wrong side of the barrel. |
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Nordentro
Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Posts: 4713 Location: Lillehammer, Norway
Expire: 2015-01-29
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 10:16 pm Post subject: |
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Nordentro wrote:
rukmeister wrote: |
Thanks! That was exactly the tip I needed. Got it back on now. woohoo
Bit of a wipe down with alcohol and some ROR on the glass. Took a test shot and everything works great now. Even the click stops feel better now.
Though now I have to do it all again
I've put the focus markings and aperture markings on the wrong side of the barrel. |
Classic!
I lost one ball to one of my C-mounts once when reassembling the lens. They are so tiny _________________ Lars | Manuellfokus.no |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7795 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 10:58 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
I think a lot of people use just one ball when reassembling a Helios.
I've got two lenses and I've had both apart, I got both balls back in the first one, but the second one is partially neutered, and none the worse for it. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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rukmeister
Joined: 14 Aug 2010 Posts: 104 Location: Hobart, Australia
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:43 am Post subject: |
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rukmeister wrote:
I can understand that, I almost gave up and just put one of them back only, but you'd lose half the click stops... I actually find myself using them sometimes though..
I'll post up a proper disassembly & reassembly guide now that I have to pull it apart again. Not today though I've had enough for one day and a new lens just arrived in the mail |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 7:05 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
rukmeister wrote: |
Thanks! That was exactly the tip I needed. Got it back on now. woohoo
Bit of a wipe down with alcohol and some ROR on the glass. Took a test shot and everything works great now. Even the click stops feel better now.
Though now I have to do it all again
I've put the focus markings and aperture markings on the wrong side of the barrel. |
Yup, I think we've all done that and probably more than once. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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Hinko
Joined: 12 Mar 2012 Posts: 4
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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:01 am Post subject: |
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Hinko wrote:
Dear rukmeister, can you provide the step by step procedures for dismantling the helios 44M? i have one of the same model, where i face a similar problem in inserting the bearing of the aperture ring. The reason i dismantle it is because the focus ring and the optical block seems to be wobbling with respect to the mount block. But i only open the lens up to the aperture ring, and do not know how to proceed. Can you enlighten me on this?TQ |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7795 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 8:44 am Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
http://www.euphonium.plus.com/Drawings/Helios%2520Repair%2520Manual%2520English.pdf
This is a useful link to Helios repair
These links to 'Psychotic Studios' blog did link to the best repair guide for the Helios ever, but it says the articles are being updated. I hope they reappear as they are very useful
http://retrotek.biz/blog/archives/140
http://retrotek.biz/blog/archives/118 _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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Hinko
Joined: 12 Mar 2012 Posts: 4
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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:03 am Post subject: |
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Hinko wrote:
Hi Lloydy, thanks for the reply. The pdf file is the 44 with preset ring. While the two retrotek sites, i can only see the comments there.
The helios that i have is the 44M with a A/M button, similar to the one shown by rukmeister.
My problem is the wobbling of the focussing ring with respect to the mount body. Is it due to loose screws or due to wear & tear of the threads of the helicoids?TQ |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7795 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
Yes, that first link is for the 44-2. Sorry. I have both lenses and just quickly copied the link.
The other links were really good, and I might have them saved somewhere as web pages. I'll go and search through my old computer. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7795 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
http://chris.stingray.free.fr/Tuto/Modif_H44M4/Pinoche_H44M-4.html
I found the link to the pin modification.
http://chris.stingray.free.fr/Tuto/Modif_H44M4/Pinoche_H44M-4.html
I'll keep looking, I've got it somewhere.
Another link to modifying the Helios to Nikon fit - but there's a lot of pictures of the lens taken apart, they're useful pictures.
http://forum.manualfocus.org/viewtopic.php?id=15117
FOUND A GOOD ONE !!!
http://iznodil.free.fr/Tuto%20h%C3%A9lios.pps
It's French, and downloads the file immediately, but I've just done it and it seems OK. There's a great set of pictures for taking the lens apart.
http://forum.manualfocus.org/viewtopic.php?id=15117 _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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rukmeister
Joined: 14 Aug 2010 Posts: 104 Location: Hobart, Australia
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:21 am Post subject: |
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rukmeister wrote:
God, I'd forgotton about that guide I meant to do. I'm putting it down to first time father sleep deprivation. I never did get to disassemble it again to fix the focus/aperture markings and the lens ended up already being handed down to a younger relative's new photography hobby.
Anyway, regarding the wobble, if you haven't already, you should remove the mount and have a look if that is the source of the wobble first, I don't think there's anything there in the mount that could cause that, but I could be wrong.
This is all from memory, but I believe there are three screws on the mount side. Before you pull it off, mark on the barrel the position of the mount relative to the barrel (probably should mark all along the barrel now rather than as you disassemble further -mount,aperture ring, etc). It is a little bit fiddly getting it back on as with the A/M switch being part of the mount, you need to have all the bits of the switching mechanism lined up. It all goes back together fairly easily, as long as everything is placed just right.
Just take note of where everything is when you take it apart. Don't force anything (except the bit I had trouble with - the bearings for the aperture click stops).
Once you have the mount off, you'll be looking at something similar to my picture above (except your aperture ring will still be on). You should be able to try wobbling the helicoid part from here and see if it is the helicoid that is the source of the wobble. |
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Hinko
Joined: 12 Mar 2012 Posts: 4
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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Hinko wrote:
Thanks Lloydy, this link: http://forum.manualfocus.org/viewtopic.php?id=15117 is really useful. It's the same model as mine. But it seems that it did not go further to the helicoid.
Hi rukmeister, thanks for the info. I am wondering now shall i service the helicoid by cleaning all the old greases and applying new one to them as the focusing ring is a bit hard to turn. If i were to do so, what kind of grease shall i look for? When opening tha back of the lens, it seems that lots of dust accumulated inside. Have you tried opening those grub screws? it seems so delicate that i don't dare to open them.
TQ |
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rukmeister
Joined: 14 Aug 2010 Posts: 104 Location: Hobart, Australia
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 11:14 pm Post subject: |
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rukmeister wrote:
If you can get to the stage where you are able to unscrew the helicoid part, you should clean and re grease it as it is fairly simple to do.
I recommend using white lithium grease which you can get from auto repair stores (the kind that sell car parts, oil, mats, tools etc).
Just make sure you don't over grease the helicoid. You only need a fairly light even coating. Once you apply it work the helicoid a bit... dozen times or so... before reassembly. Excess grease will work it's way out and you can remove that before putting it back in the lens. To check if you've lubricated the helicoid properly, before you put it back, unscrew it again and look at it. You should be able to see if the entire surface is coated. If not, add a little more and repeat.
I'm not 100% sure which screws you mean, but, I think you might need to remove some of the optics to be able to unscrew the helicoid. Again I'm not 100% sure, but I think that may be the grub screws you are looking at. Just make sure you don't disassemble to the point where you're messing with the actual aperture mechanism! If the aperture is still ok, it's best to just leave it alone!
When cleaning the optics (which you might as well do now that the lens is mostly disassembled) I recommend you always place the elements down on the table FRONT side down so you know which way they go. Also I recommend using iso alcohol and ROR (Residual Oil Remover) and PEC pads. If you can't get these easily just iso alcohol and a bunch of microfibre cloths will probably do.
If the dust you are talking about is inside the section where the aperture is housed, it's really up to you. It's a big job and it's not easy if things go wrong.
Go slow, be patient, and take regular breaks! When you're tired, stiff and hungry, you make mistakes. |
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Hinko
Joined: 12 Mar 2012 Posts: 4
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Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 1:45 pm Post subject: |
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Hinko wrote:
Thanks rukmeister! I have one more question, what shall i use to wipe off those old greases? Can it be done with just a damp cloth?
TQ. |
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rukmeister
Joined: 14 Aug 2010 Posts: 104 Location: Hobart, Australia
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:06 am Post subject: |
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rukmeister wrote:
No problem. Just use a clean, dry, lint free cloth to get rid of most of the grease first, qtips are good too, and then another cloth with some iso alcohol to remove the rest. |
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Gary.M
Joined: 08 Sep 2012 Posts: 2 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 12:55 am Post subject: Adjusting and Cleaning Focus on Helios 44M |
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Gary.M wrote:
For those who are interested you can use the Wayback Machine to access older versions of websites that have changed. For example:
Adjusting and Cleaning Focus on Helios 44M:
http://web.archive.org/web/20100713213159/http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/archives/140
And this one covers cleaning the aperture.
http://web.archive.org/web/20100408020339/http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/archives/118
Last edited by Gary.M on Sat Sep 08, 2012 1:04 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Gary.M
Joined: 08 Sep 2012 Posts: 2 Location: New Zealand
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Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 1:03 am Post subject: |
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Gary.M wrote:
I think I may be restricted from posting web links as the message I posted above contains links to archived descriptions of maintenance on the lens, when I preview the post it works perfectly, but when I submit it it appears as above. Perhaps an admin needs to make some adjustment so that you can all benefit from the links? |
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skida
Joined: 02 Mar 2012 Posts: 1826 Location: North East England
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Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 1:47 am Post subject: |
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skida wrote:
Links and photos don't show in your very first post here until you post a second time (as you may have noticed). It is an anti-spam measure. |
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Lightshow
Joined: 04 Nov 2011 Posts: 3666 Location: Calgary
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Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 7:41 am Post subject: |
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Lightshow wrote:
Hinko wrote: |
My problem is the wobbling of the focussing ring with respect to the mount body. Is it due to loose screws or due to wear & tear of the threads of the helicoids?TQ |
One issue that can happen is that screws can become loose, double check that all screws are not loose.
Have a look at the helicoid guides, there are 2, one @ the top, one @ the bottom, each held with 2 screws, as seen in this pic from the link that Gary.M posted.
They keep the optics from rotating when you turn the focus ring, and therefor force the optics in and out as you turn for focus.
http://liveweb.archive.org/http://psychoticstudios.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/IMGP2966.jpg _________________ A Manual Focus Junky...
One photographers junk lens is an artists favorite tool.
My lens list
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/ |
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mackeral
Joined: 21 Oct 2012 Posts: 64 Location: United States
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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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mackeral wrote:
A bit of an old topic, but maybe someone can help me with this. I am going to break my Helios 44m down and clean it but that retrotek link makes no mention of re-greasing with newer lube. Is this just optional? If grease needs to be used, what is a good grease for this? Thansk guys and gals |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7795 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 12:30 am Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
http://forum.mflenses.com/grease-for-helicoid-t53257.html
Big discussion of greasing helicoids here, same forum. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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thundertwin72
Joined: 28 Sep 2011 Posts: 43 Location: Barcelona
Expire: 2013-12-16
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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 11:03 pm Post subject: |
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thundertwin72 wrote:
mackeral wrote: |
A bit of an old topic, but maybe someone can help me with this. I am going to break my Helios 44m down and clean it but that retrotek link makes no mention of re-greasing with newer lube. Is this just optional? If grease needs to be used, what is a good grease for this? Thansk guys and gals |
A few days ago I cleaned the helicoid of an Helios 44-2 and an Helios 44M, with lighter fuel.
For regreasing, I used synthetic grease with PTFE. Its temperature range is -30 ° C to +175 ° C. Used to lubricate and protect bearings, bolts, sliding ... And not attack rubber, plastic, wood, metal ...
Now the focus of both lenses (and of a Volna-3) is actually very soft.
Grasa Quilube.
Regards. _________________
DSLR: Canon 50D, Canon 1000D.
EVIL: Olympus e-pl1, Fuji X-E1.
SLR: Fujica ST801, Praktica MTL5B, Praktica MTL50, Pentax MX, Pentax ME Super, Pentax K1000, Canon A1, Canon AE1 Program, Canon T60, Canon EF, Canon FTb QL, Minolta SRT-101, Minolta XG9, Nikon FE2, Nikon FM2n, Nikon FM, Nikon FE, Nikon FA, Olympus OM-1, Olympus OM-10, Yashica FX-3, Yashica FX-3 Super 2000, Contax 137MA Quartz, Contax RTS, Zenit E, Zenit EM, Зенит ET, Contaflex II, Contaflex IV, Киев 60 TTL.
Rangefinder: ФЗД-2, Зоркий-4, Киев-4.
Rangefinder fixed lens: Yashica Electro GSN, Yashica Electro GX, Yashica Minister D, Yashica Lynx 14E, Yashica Lynx 5000E, Canonet QL17, Olympus 35RC.
TLR: Flexaret II Flexaret IIa, Flexaret IIIa, Flexaret IV, Flexaret IVa, Flexaret Va, Flexaret VI Automat, Flexaret VIa Automat, Flexaret Standard, Flexaret VII Automat, Weltaflex, Rolleicord Va, Yashica Mat 124G.
LENSES:
(m42): Chinon 2.5/24, Super Takumar 3.5/28, Pentacon 2.8/29, Pentacon 3.5/30, Chinon Auto 2.8/35, Super Takumar 1.4/50, SMC Takumar 1.4/50,EBC Fujinon 1.4/50, Pentacon 1.8/50, EBC Fujinon 1.8/55, Helios 44-2 2/58, Helios 44M 2/58, Helios-44M4 2/58, Vivitar Series 1 2.5/90, Pentacon 2.8/135, CZJ Sonnar 3.5/135, MC Юпитер-37AM 3.5/135, Kenlock 4/200, Jupiter-21M 4.5/200.
(PK): SMC Pentax-M 1.4/50, SMC Pentax-M 1.7/50, SMC Pentax-A 1.7/50, Kiron 2.8/105.
(C/Y): Yashica ML 1.9/50, Yashica ML 1.7/50, Vivitar 2.8/28, Panagor 2.8/90, Zeiss Planar *T 1.4/50, Zeiss Planar *T 1.7/50.
(FD): Soligor 2.5/28, Canon FD 1.4/50, Canon FD 1.4/50 SSC, Canon FDn 1.4/50, Canon FD 1.8/50 SC, Canon FDn 1.8/50, Vivitar 2.8/55.
(MD): Rokkor PF 1.7/50, Rokkor MD 1.7/50.
(F): Nikkor AI-S 2/35, Nikkor AI 2.8/35, Nikkor AI 1.4/50, Nikkor AI-S 1.4/50, Nikkor AI-S 1.8/50 "Long Nose", Nikkor AI-S 1.8/50, E Series 1.8/50, Nikkor AI 2/50, МС Гелиос-81Н 2/50, Panagor 3/55, Hoya 2.8/135, Hoya 3.5/35-105.
(OM): Zuiko Auto-S 1.8/50.
(Konica AR):Hexanon 1.8/40.
(Pentacon Six): MC Волна-3 2.8/80.
(LTM): Юпитер-8 2/50, И-26м 2,8/52.
(Contax/Kiev): Юпитер-8М f2/5cm.
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