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metallaro1980
Joined: 10 Sep 2009
Posts: 385
Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
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 Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:29 pm Post subject: gossen lunasix 3 - my power supply |
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metallaro1980 wrote:
i built a little plastic box and inside there are a circuit board and one alkaline battery (9v)
the circuit is very simply.
V1 is 9V
LM317LZ is a voltage regulator
with the variable resistor r2 you must change the value of the output voltage (2.7V)
Vout = output voltage
Vin = input voltage
Vout = 1.25 * (r2/r1)
vin - vout = 6.3 volt
LM317LZ requires 0.69mA with 6.3 volt of difference between vin and vout so you can put a fixed resistor (3.9kohm) in the output (in parallel to the C2....electrolytic capacitor is better in this case) in parallel to this fixed resistor there are also the two wires for the power supply of the gossen
the output voltage will be 2.7 forever.... also when the input voltage decreases !
IT WORKS !
_________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses.... |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012
Posts: 4744
Location: Cheshire, England
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| Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 12:11 am Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
A diode on the + pole inside the meter works just as well. But alkalines act differently to the old mercury battery.
This would power my Canon EF for years if you could fit it inside!
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Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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metallaro1980
Joined: 10 Sep 2009
Posts: 385
Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
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| Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 12:24 am Post subject: |
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metallaro1980 wrote:
| philslizzy wrote: |
A diode on the + pole inside the meter works just as well. But alkalines act differently to the old mercury battery.
This would power my Canon EF for years if you could fit it inside! |
i have 2.7V .... and it does not change with the time...because LM317LZ maintains it
_________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses.... |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 11020
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 10:17 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Nice work metallaro1980!
| philslizzy wrote: |
A diode on the + pole inside the meter works just as well. But alkalines act differently to the old mercury battery.
This would power my Canon EF for years if you could fit it inside! |
nonsense.
_________________
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Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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metallaro1980
Joined: 10 Sep 2009
Posts: 385
Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
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| Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 2:24 pm Post subject: |
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metallaro1980 wrote:
another solution is this:
build a micro-circuit (dead bug soldering) with a LDO micro-power regulator ... for example: TC1014-2.7VCT713 and 1206 or 0805 passive components and put it inside (between the 2 batteries and where the wires of batteries go) the gossen lunasix
but it is very small (you can do it with a soldier 0.1mm or 0.3mm)
and for diode...the drop voltage of a diode is not the same for any kind of current
the current that flows into the gossen is variable (between 20uA and 290uA and more uA)
it does not exist a diode that with a current below 1mA it can produce a drop voltage of 0.4V (so 20uA -> drop voltage of 0.4V, so 50uA -> drop voltage of 0.4V, so 150uA -> drop voltage of 0.4V, so 300uA -> drop voltage of 0.4V)
a diode is not a linear component
another solution?
yes...build yourself a LDO micro-power-regulator with standard dimensions component
http://circuits-projects.blogspot.it/2012/08/ldo-regulator.html
_________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses.... |
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