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David
Joined: 13 Apr 2011 Posts: 1869 Location: Denver, Colorado
Expire: 2013-01-25
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Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 6:56 pm Post subject: Fungus Speed |
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David wrote:
I hope this isn't a repeat topic. I searched for some keywords on this and got no hits.
Anyway, I bought a sizable used camera lot. It was $35 with shipping but worked out to $3.18 per camera and lens. It had three pieces I was interested in -- a Honeywell Pentax SP1000, an M42 55mm lens (on the SP1000), and a Sears brand M42 55mm lens with a maximum aperture of 1.4. Each of the three lenses (also a Sears K mount 50mm, feh) have fungus. The f1.4 has it the worst -- threads the full circumference from the edge inward. So I'm going to clean them and remove the fungus. Since the coatings are likely etched anyway, they'll make good practice. However, I'm not likely to have time to do this until later December or early January. So, three questions:
1- How fast does Fungus grow? With the lens caps off and the lenses stored where they can get circulated, dry air, will the fungus grow noticeably or at all?
2- Can the fungus spread to my good lenses?
3- If I stick these things in the freezer to halt the fungus and sublimate any moisture in the lenses, will they survive the freezing or be ruined even more so? _________________ http://www.youtube.com/user/hancockDavidM |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:08 pm Post subject: Re: Fungus Speed |
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Excalibur wrote:
David wrote: |
I hope this isn't a repeat topic. I searched for some keywords on this and got no hits.
Anyway, I bought a sizable used camera lot. It was $35 with shipping but worked out to $3.18 per camera and lens. It had three pieces I was interested in -- a Honeywell Pentax SP1000, an M42 55mm lens (on the SP1000), and a Sears brand M42 55mm lens with a maximum aperture of 1.4. Each of the three lenses (also a Sears K mount 50mm, feh) have fungus. The f1.4 has it the worst -- threads the full circumference from the edge inward. So I'm going to clean them and remove the fungus. Since the coatings are likely etched anyway, they'll make good practice. However, I'm not likely to have time to do this until later December or early January. So, three questions:
1- How fast does Fungus grow? With the lens caps off and the lenses stored where they can get circulated, dry air, will the fungus grow noticeably or at all?
2- Can the fungus spread to my good lenses?
3- If I stick these things in the freezer to halt the fungus and sublimate any moisture in the lenses, will they survive the freezing or be ruined even more so? |
Fungus (like everything living) needs water so just keep the lens in a dry, ventilated, open to light, conditions and it will cease growing.....and I wouldn't worry about contaminating your other lenses as they are probably covered in spores anyway just waiting for the right conditions to start their life cycle. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
http://forum.mflenses.com/storing-lenses-t812.html _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11019 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Fungus goes dormant, hibernates at humidity lower than about 50% -- use fresh/re-charged silica gel or rice baked in low oven thus to remove moisture, to lower humidity inside airtight enclosure, to store.
Acidic (& basic?) fungus metabolites -- the waste from fungii breathing, crapping, pissing & sweating -- can etch coatings and glass. Over time, oxygen turns the acids to mineral salts.
Dormant hibernating fungus may produce stronger acids, but in less quantity, than growing fungus. A fungus recycling from dormant to active many times may produce the most acid, especially upon awakening. If correct, reasons to remove fungus sooner rather than later, even if the fungus is kept dormant until 'later'.
I would make an assessment which ranks lenses by the degree of fungal growth and by the degree of difficulty to work on particular lens, then save the hardest/worst for last. Fifties are so simple and quick to disassemble I'd open that one just to clean the elements to get some idea of how the remaining lenses might clean, whether there is etching, etc.. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
I agree with everything said. The fungus will become dormant in unfavourable conditions (light, airy, dry), and new fungus can also only start or spread in favourable conditions.
One thing keeps bugging me though. Is "fungus" the right term? I prefer to call it mildew, or perhaps mould. "Fungus" for me conjures up images of rhizomorphs and smelly fruiting bodies (mushrooms). Maybe the strands are rhizomorphs of a kind, but have you ever seen fruiting bodies on lenses? _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Certainly mold is right term, not fungi.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mold _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11019 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 2:34 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Actually, mold is fruit of fungus! Molds are fungi.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fungi
molds and fungi are Eukarya
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eukaryote _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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