Fungus identification

zcetrt · Joined: 13 Dec 2012 Posts: 6

Hi to all.

I would appreciate if you would share your knowledge with me determining if shown on the below images is fungus.

Image shows front (in front of the shutter) lens group from Yashica Lynx 14E with Yashinon-DX F/1.4 45 mm lens. I don't know how to reach the anomaly to clean since I don't know how to remove the front element. The lens is otherwise in superb condition - clean, clear, no dust and only couple of bubbles/imperfections in the coating. The photos are taken at the angle and lightning that shows anomaly best.

I would appreciate diagnosis, tips how to fix this and maybe degree of danger I am facing with having the camera in a display case with other cameras Smile

Do you know if a professional repairman can reach the dirt shown?

Thank you for your help in advance.

DConvert · Joined: 12 Jun 2010 Posts: 921 Location: Essex UK

I don't think that is fungus, which is normally somewhat fiberous.

Looks to me like there might be a slight chip & some associated breakdown of the balsam between elements.
If I'm right it shouldn't get any worse, and will not make a noticable difference to any shots with the lens.

visualopsins · Expire: 2025-04-11

Welcome zcetrt!

It looks fibrous to me, but it could be element separation, which sometimes looks fibrous.

If it is fungus, keeping camera in low humidity environment will prevent further growth -- there will be no chance for fungus to grow & spew more spores onto surrounding equipments. Since fungus spores are everywhere, all the equipment is already infected anyway! The strategy is to prevent growth. Also prevent condensing humidity by always sealing camera in baggie before moving from cold into warm, letting camera warm before opening baggie.

A competent camera repair person can clean fungus, but can not repair element separation, however, this looks so minor -- there is no (visible) effect on images...

cooltouch · Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas

I personally wouldn't put anything inside a plastic bag as a way of avoiding condensation. Unless the bag has had all air removed from it. If it isn't, the moisture in the air in the bag will still condense out.

This looks like fungus to me, and it looks active. Fungus can be fibrous -- or even spiderweb-looking, or it can show itself as pools of cloudiness. The pools of cloudiness are typically active, whereas the fibrous strands are typically inactive. The best way to elminate fungus is to expose it to light. I would set that lens out in bright sunlight for a few hours. That will kill the fungus.

I've never tried this, but people here at this forum have and they claim it works great: cold cream. If there is fungus on the exterior of the lens element, then slather some cold cream on it and let it sit for a bit before wiping it away. I plan to try it next time I have to clean fungus off an element. You might try doing a search on it here and read the threads. What I've done in the past was just use my thumb and rub really hard. This would wipe away the most stubborn traces of fungus.

Now, obviously, if some of this fungus is on the back side of an element, this element will have to be removed so the fungus can be removed. So keep this in mind as well.

These days of modern A/C in homes, even in a humid part of the US, like Houston, where it can be 98% on a summer day, the inside of most homes is right at 50% humidity. So as long as your lens is stored in a controlled environment like a home, you should be OK. But as I mention above, I would give the lens an initial dosage of strong daylight to kill any active portions.

visualopsins · Expire: 2025-04-11

While sealing in a plastic bag or air/waterproof pelican case before moving from cold into warm environment may be counter-intuitive, that is how to avoid humidity in warm air from condensing on cold camera and lens surfaces. Wink

Living inside in air condition humidity controlled environment, seal camera before taking outside into warmer environment.

Warmer air absorbs more moisture than cooler air. Relative humidity can be 50% in cool air & 50% in warm air. The greater moisture content causes to condense on cool glass/metal taken from cooler to warmer.

sceptic · Joined: 01 Jun 2013 Posts: 255

+1 for sealing camera gear in plastic baggies when transferring it from cold to warm air.
Regarding fungus, I'm a strong advocate of "cleaning, not killing". Not that I care the slightest whether the pesky creatures live or die, I'm more concerned with the wellbeing of the coatings.
If the fungus can't be reached (for whatever reason) then by all means kill it, to avoid growth. If, however, you are able to disassemble the lens and obtain access to the infected lens element(s), use a mild cleaning agent to try and remove the fungus.

Cold cream is supposedly very effective (I've never used it myself, though), but I stick with regular 70 % ethanol. I usually wet the infected surface by applying a non-shedding paper soaked in ethanol, to simply dissolve the fungus (cold cream has the same effect and probably stays on easier). After a few minutes, I simply wipe off the ethanol and fungus "solution".

I've seen recipes including ammonia and/or various acids or other nasty chemicals, which surely kill the fungus, but also poses a great threat to the coatings and the poor guy doing the cleaning...

DConvert · Joined: 12 Jun 2010 Posts: 921 Location: Essex UK

Lloydy · Expire: 2022-01-01

Cold cream is very effective, just let it sit on the infected lens for about 15 minutes then clean off with mild dishwashing soapy water.