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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 5:21 am Post subject: Focusing with Split Screen |
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my_photography wrote:
Received my split screen from Alex yesterday. Had to asked a professional camera technician to install in my A700. (I actually scratch my original screen a few weeks back when I try to remove it out for cleaning. I learned my lesson).
Initially impression, it is not as easy to focus with a split screen as thought. I have been used to AF for a long time. And whenever I use a manual lens and the shots is out of focus, I always tell myself, it is because of the screen.
To make a long story short, my initial test to focus with the split screen brings back bad memories. More then 80% of the photos are out of focus. Even when it is in focus, it is not as sharp as I hope. Perhaps my focusing technique is not good.
Now the question, how do you people get spot on focus when you use your split scree. Do you look at the center point where the horizontal line is, or you look at the circle (half of it is usually darker and the other half is usually brighter) or you look at the matte like pattern on the circle or,...
Not sure if I am making any sense here.
The problem is I am going to travel in 2 days time and I am planning to carry the manual lenses with me this time. Another disappointment I am facing now is I can hardly see - focus with one of my favourite lens, Minolta STF 135mm@f2.8(T4.5). I am in a dilemma. _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
Last edited by my_photography on Wed Apr 22, 2009 5:37 am; edited 1 time in total |
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hk300
Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 1041 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 5:35 am Post subject: |
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hk300 wrote:
You can still use your AF lenses, so bring 1-2 of those with you.
In addition, yes, there will be a manual focus learning curve. I am still not very good in it, and when trying to make pics of fast moving objects (like my kids), i will also bring an AF lens with me. _________________ No longer member , please don't try to contact to him |
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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 5:49 am Post subject: |
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my_photography wrote:
Talking about MF focus moving objects. Went to shoot some models 2 weeks ago (that was before the split screen arrived) who were cat walking on the stage introducing some new products. I thought I caught some nice shots. After uploading into the computer, I was horrified, I think only less then 5% of my shots were sharp. Tht rest of them, even the face was out of focus. _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
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hk300
Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 1041 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 6:01 am Post subject: |
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hk300 wrote:
my_photography wrote: |
Talking about MF focus moving objects. Went to shoot some models 2 weeks ago (that was before the split screen arrived) who were cat walking on the stage introducing some new products. I thought I caught some nice shots. After uploading into the computer, I was horrified, I think only less then 5% of my shots were sharp. Tht rest of them, even the face was out of focus. |
Was this before or after using the split screen?
Please check if you need to adjust the built-in dioptric setting of the eye viewer. _________________ No longer member , please don't try to contact to him |
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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 6:30 am Post subject: |
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my_photography wrote:
hk300 wrote: |
Was this before or after using the split screen?
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That was before a split screen was installed. I am not saying there is anything wrong with the split screen I received. I think it has more to do with my inadequate manual focusing skill. _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
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hk300
Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 1041 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 6:36 am Post subject: |
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hk300 wrote:
my_photography wrote: |
hk300 wrote: |
Was this before or after using the split screen?
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That was before a split screen was installed. I am not saying there is anything wrong with the split screen I received. I think it has more to do with my inadequate manual focusing skill. |
Don't feel like that.
It took me ages to get a least some sharp pics out of my MF setup.
I started practicing with non-moving objects, like flowers, trees, wine bottles, ... _________________ No longer member , please don't try to contact to him |
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poilu
Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10472 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 7:00 am Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
first check that your screen registration is correct
http://graham.hopto.org/mflenses/focus21.pdf
if it is not ok, you will not make sharp pics, only destroy your eyes |
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naplam
Joined: 22 Mar 2007 Posts: 469 Location: Spain
Expire: 2013-11-30
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Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:00 am Post subject: |
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naplam wrote:
Yep, check that first, maybe the screen is misplaced or something. As for techniques, I recently got a focus screen and i'm really satisfied with it, it's like shooting in a film camera (except for the full frame), what I do with film cameras is this: when there's enough light I use the microprism collar almost exclusively, it's easy to see in daylight (you move the camera a bit and you see the collar goes "funny": out of focus, then you move the focus ring until you see a clear image there: in focus). If there's less light and the microprisms start to get dark, I rely on the central split prisms, focusing on some contrasty detail, straight line, things like that. If you're shooting with a big aperture, try not to move yourself or you'll quickly bring things out of focus too, if focusing close. Another way to check if the screen is misplaced is using an AF lens, make it auto-focus and check the screen. |
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Krisgage
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 681 Location: Singapore
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Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 1:24 am Post subject: |
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Krisgage wrote:
don't be disheartened by bad results, keep trying !
For split screen, I usually look at the center circle half for focus comfirmation.
Recently, I tried using my manual lens for a photoshoot, out of the hundreds , only 30 photos able to make it. Most of them either out of focus or over exposed or under exposed _________________ Photos and Lenses Journal
http://krisgage.livejournal.com |
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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 2:32 am Post subject: |
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my_photography wrote:
Good news. Have tried testing from the link send my poilu (thanks) and suggestion by Alex. Now I am happy with my focus. The one and major problem why I got not spot on focusing is I forgot to "calilbrate" my camera after installing the split screen. Seems like the camera dioptre was out by 1 to 2 clicks. By adjusting the Dioptre Adjustment, now my target rate is about 80-90% for non moving objects.
I have even sticked my Dipotre Adjustment Dial so that I do not accidentally change the setting. Now I am more confident in taking the manual lenses to travel. _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
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magnet-2009
Joined: 22 Apr 2009 Posts: 505 Location: Greece, Athens
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Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:48 am Post subject: |
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magnet-2009 wrote:
There is only one way to achieve perfect manual focus for moving objects, prefocus.
Prefocus a selected point and wait for your target to pass the point, then shoooooot, be careful there is the lap time / the mirror movement on SLR's !!!!
A bonus.....
http://digital-photography-school.com/5-situations-when-manual-focus-is-better-than-auto-focus |
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hk300
Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 1041 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 11:43 am Post subject: |
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hk300 wrote:
my_photography wrote: |
Good news. Have tried testing from the link send my poilu (thanks) and suggestion by Alex. Now I am happy with my focus. The one and major problem why I got not spot on focusing is I forgot to "calilbrate" my camera after installing the split screen. Seems like the camera dioptre was out by 1 to 2 clicks. By adjusting the Dioptre Adjustment, now my target rate is about 80-90% for non moving objects.
I have even sticked my Dipotre Adjustment Dial so that I do not accidentally change the setting. Now I am more confident in taking the manual lenses to travel. |
Loke ... good to hear that you are happy with the by my supplied focusing screen ... please post more pics ! _________________ No longer member , please don't try to contact to him |
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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 2:22 pm Post subject: |
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my_photography wrote:
hk300 wrote: |
Loke ... good to hear that you are happy with the by my supplied focusing screen ... please post more pics ! |
Will post some photos when I return. Am packing my beg down. Still trying to figure out which lens to take and which not to. _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
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