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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1216
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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 Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2022 3:03 am Post subject: Filters? |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
Anyone using film era correction filters over digital?
The question is a serious one.
I haven't done much (yet), but did discover one filter actually does boost contrast.
Kind of curious as to what anyone has found in this regard.
I know a lot can be done in post, but am interested in the filter idea anyways...
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 11061
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2022 4:04 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Well, sure, filter can boost contrast of subject the same color as the filter by reflecting the "noise" of other colors...IR and UV photography for example. Color balance correction filters for film exposure to different types of lighting should also boost contrast, although maybe not obviously.
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☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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DConvert
Joined: 12 Jun 2010
Posts: 921
Location: Essex UK
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| Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2022 8:27 am Post subject: |
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DConvert wrote:
Yes I do quite a bit.
I shoot lots of infra red, using a full spectrum converted camera & old filters can give great effects. Those like the #25 (red) are simply long pass designs that only differ from the best modern one in the coatings. Some of the old filters can give interesting combinations such as UV, blue & IR from the #47 which works close to the 'superblue' filter sold by Lifepixel. A few others seem to get combinations not seen on any new filter.
In addition to infra red I play with old effects filters, far more fun IMO than using photoshop. |
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kypfer
Joined: 27 Sep 2017
Posts: 523
Location: Jersey C.I.
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| Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2022 10:31 am Post subject: |
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kypfer wrote:
I too use i/r filters, albeit on an unmodified camera with a CCD sensor, and achieve very acceptable b&w results, which is what I'm after.
I often use "old fashioned" linear polarising filters. They often/usually give a more contrasty result than a circular polariser and have no effect on the focussing or exposure on my Pentax DSLRs.
Tests using monochrome contrast filters, (red, green, yellow, orange etc.), for monochrome results, appear to have little difference to using the in-camera filter effects, so having established that I no longer bother.
Inevitably, different cameras have different sensors with differing sensitivities, so the only way to be absolutely sure, for your equipment, is to try it for yourself.
Most modern lenses are sufficiently complex as to block u/v totally, so that is unlikely to be an issue, unless you're using an old three or four element lens such as a Trioplan or Tessar or similar  |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021
Posts: 1436
Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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| Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2022 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
I'm probably stating the obvious here, but when using traditional colour filters (glass, in the field) you are actually filtering the incoming light itself, as opposed to changing a digitised signal of limited bit depth by bit shifting and/or numerical multiplication/division. The resulting effect will almost certainly be different at the margins (e.g. shadows & highlights) where strong filtering is concerned.
It probably depends on both the particular subject matter as well as the desired effect as to which method is preferable/more effective.
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Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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bp_reid
Joined: 06 Jan 2021
Posts: 57
Location: London, UK
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| Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2022 4:49 pm Post subject: |
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bp_reid wrote:
Certainly, polarisers are useful for glare and I still use warm-up and ND grad and big stoppers. |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1216
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2022 2:31 am Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
Both sides are in Japanese.
If anyone here has this Nikon filters applications leaflet in the English version, could you post a photo?
I was able to decipher some of it with Michael Freeman's 35mm Photography Handbook...
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011
Posts: 4087
Location: Switzerland
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| Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2022 11:24 am Post subject: Re: Filters? |
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stevemark wrote:
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
Anyone using film era correction filters over digital?
The question is a serious one.
I haven't done much (yet), but did discover one filter actually does boost contrast.
Kind of curious as to what anyone has found in this regard.
I know a lot can be done in post, but am interested in the filter idea anyways...
-D.S. |
I have been using filters a lot back in the days of b/w photography (mainly red filters when shooting landscapes with the Kodak Technical Pan film which was quite sensitive to red and even near IR). And of course also the blue filters for 3400K=>5500K conversion on color/slide film.
These days, on high res digital cameras, I don't use filters any more. There are two main reasons:
1) When shooting landscapes, all polarization filters I have tested (including extremely expensive Zeiss stuff) were visibly degrading the performance of good tele lenses such as the Minolta AF 2.8/200mm APO G. And for (extreme) wideangle landscapes a polfilter is useless anyway ...
2) When shooting objects such as cameras & lenses or golden objects I ususally use several flashlights and reflectors - no conversion filters needed ...
I can see mainly two reasons to use filters on digital cameras:
1) Conversion filters (3400K=>5500K or 3200K=>5500K) for artificial light (certainly will increase the dynamic range of the blue channel)
2) Soft filters for portraiture (I have the sought-after Minolta Portrayer P 72mm set and really should test it ...!!)
Of course the specific IR and UV filters are necessary when taking UV or IR images (either in front of the lens or in front of the sensor), but that's probably not the topic here.
S
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 11061
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2022 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Shine sunlight through uv filters onto white paper for revealing surprising differences in "color"!
_________________
☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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pdccameras
Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Posts: 825
Location: Putnam, CT
Expire: 2014-08-11
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| Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2022 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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pdccameras wrote:
Here you go. I think this is similar to the Japanese language version you posted.
Enjoy!
Paul
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Canon 5D Mii, Canon 40D, Canon 350D IR, Sony A7 Mii, Sony Alpha-6000, a ton of lenses: AF & MF and too many cameras to count, all formats: 110 - 4x5. |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1216
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2022 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
| pdccameras wrote: |
Here you go. I think this is similar to the Japanese language version you posted.
Enjoy!
Paul |
Thank you very much, Sir!
Greatly appreciated.
This clears up a lot for me concerning the intended usages.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012
Posts: 4745
Location: Cheshire, England
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| Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2022 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
I use colour correction filters when using Tungsten balanced film. It gives more natural results and makes colour correction easier.
The filter is orangey in colour and does boost contrast in BW a little.
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