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bernhardas
Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Posts: 1432
Expire: 2017-05-23
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 12:29 pm Post subject: E |
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bernhardas wrote:
edited
Last edited by bernhardas on Mon Apr 18, 2016 5:59 am; edited 1 time in total |
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kopi234
Joined: 25 Jul 2012 Posts: 103 Location: Indonesia
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 1:12 pm Post subject: |
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kopi234 wrote:
to me the more annoying thing is seller dishonesty _________________ secangkir kopi, sebatang rokok |
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Tervueren
Joined: 18 May 2011 Posts: 1177 Location: West Sussex, United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-08
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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Tervueren wrote:
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Oh well back to the seller. |
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bernhardas
Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Posts: 1432
Expire: 2017-05-23
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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bernhardas wrote:
edited
Last edited by bernhardas on Mon Apr 18, 2016 5:59 am; edited 1 time in total |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 3:14 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Yes, that's definitely fungus. However, it's not going to affect the image if it's just those spots.
Try the lens out, see if it performs okay for you, if so, negotiate a partial refund from the seller.
Being in Dubai, you have that very strong sun, so stick the lens in a window, the UV in the sunlight will kill the fungus, which will stop it from spreading and ruining the lens. Not sure how long I will take, I expect you have a lot of UV in Dubai.
Looks like it will be simple to clean, the spots look to be on the back of the front element. If you have the inclination, you can unscrew the name ring and take the front element out, then clean the fungus off, for those small spots, q-tips and 99% ISO alcohol should do the trick. Most likely the coating has been etched slightly by the fungus, but as it's only a few little spots, those small flaws in the coating won't spoil anything.
If you don't fancy trying to clean it yourself, you can get it cleaned, shouldn't be expensive as it's a simple job not requiring dis-assembly of the lens beyond removing the front element. If you give the lens a good sunbath to kill the fungus, you can bide your time finding somewhere to clean it as dead fungus won't spread. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
UV is one thing, but avoid overheating the lens, as you can also create haze in internal elements when volatile lubricants evaporate and later condense. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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parabellumfoto
Joined: 06 Apr 2013 Posts: 413 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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parabellumfoto wrote:
Is it possible that the fungus grew whilst in transit? I'm curious what the more knowledgable have to say. _________________ Minolta MC Rokkor f1.4 50mm
Minolta MD Zoom Macro 35-105mm f3.5-4.5
Nikon Nikkor 50mm F2
Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-S Auto 5cm F2
Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-Q Auto 135mm F2.8
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 35mm F1.8G
http://www.parabellumfoto.com/ |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
luisalegria wrote: |
UV is one thing, but avoid overheating the lens, as you can also create haze in internal elements when volatile lubricants evaporate and later condense. |
Aah, never thought of that, the sun is rarely hot enough in the UK to heat things up much. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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gaeger
Joined: 16 Jan 2010 Posts: 722 Location: Brier, Wash.
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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gaeger wrote:
I don't agree that such fungus doesn't have an effect. No, you won't see a shadow from spots like that on your image. But they will degrade the image, even if only slightly. If material on the inside of lenses had no effect at all on image quality, maybe manufacturers wouldn't go to such lengths to keep things clean in the manufacturing process.
Now you may decide that the amount of degradation is so small as to not affect enjoyment of the lens, but that's another thing! _________________ "Here's to the wonder" -- Alan Boyle
Nikkor/Nikon 20, 24, 28, 35, 50, 55, 85, 105, 135, 180, 200, 300, 10-20, 18-35, 18-55, 28-50, 28-70, 24-85, 35-200, 50-300, 75-150, 80-200, 70-210, 70-300, 200-500
Minolta Rokkor 24, 28, 35, 45, 50, 58, 100, 135, 50-135, 300
My most interesting images | Full photostream
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bernhardas
Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Posts: 1432
Expire: 2017-05-23
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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bernhardas wrote:
edited
Last edited by bernhardas on Mon Apr 18, 2016 5:59 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
you can store fungused lenses mixed with healthly , try it with cheap ones, until storage is properly, low humidity, allow to get light at least minimal , healthly lens will not infect , fungus spores are everywhere in air, key is they found proper living environment or not, humid and dark what they need. So worry about only you can keep your lenses in dust free, light and dry environment or not.
http://forum.mflenses.com/storing-lenses-t812.html _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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bernhardas
Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Posts: 1432
Expire: 2017-05-23
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 6:33 pm Post subject: |
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bernhardas wrote:
edited
Last edited by bernhardas on Mon Apr 18, 2016 5:58 am; edited 1 time in total |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10957 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
that's because everything is already infected!
Preventing growth is necessary, in any case. Even when kill all fungi using ozone, carcasses provide perfect environment for new growth, when environment permits: relative humidity above 40%. Light with UV content can sterilize any growth that begins if humidity goes above 40%. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Braddanman
Joined: 13 Aug 2012 Posts: 94 Location: UK
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Posted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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Braddanman wrote:
Fungus that affects lenses is like any other plant except that instead of needing light to grow it needs darkness.
Plants need three things to grow, light, food and water.
Fungus that affects lenses needs three things to grow, darkness, food (I'm not sure exactly what in lenses, dust or the coating. Do uncoated lenses get affected?) and water, in this case from humidity.
If you keep a plant in the dark OR don't water it, it will die.
If you keep a lens with fungus in the light OR below the level of humidity it requires the fungus will die. It's simple biology. The remnants of the dead fungus will remain or the effects of it on the coating will show (etching if you're unlucky). Any dead fungus should be removed if it affects performance. A dead fungus will not regrow. New spores will germinate though, if the conditions are suitable again.
Fungus spores are everywhere and we breathe them in with every lungful of air. They are probably inside a lens as soon as it leaves the sterile conditions of a factory. It's just waiting for the right conditions to germinate which is why you shouldn't leave a lens with its caps on, in a bag or in a cupboard if the humidity is high enough.
I don't understand why manufacturers use black lens caps. Why not clear? Minolta did use clear rear lens caps on their Dynax af lenses.
If you keep a lens without it's caps on in a bright area even if in high humidity fungus will not grow.
Using your lenses regularly also helps as you keep exposing them to light.
I've worked in the Dry Rot industry and eradicating dry rot is simple, eradicate the source of water and it will die and repair only the damage that has been done. There are a lot of "specialist" contractors who will carry out very expensive and unnecessary work using dangerous chemicals because the customer doesn't understand the simple logic and are scared into getting these works carried out.
Understanding Dry Rot is simple so is lens fungus.
(NB Dry rot needs damp but not as wet as wet rot) |
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