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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 2:16 pm Post subject: Developing 120 |
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kansalliskala wrote:
This sounds stupid but have to ask: do you have to peel the paper back before loading film to tank? How does one do it best in the dark? _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Yes, I've been practicing loading reels with an old 120 roll and the paper
backing does peel back and off when loading to the reel. This is my winter
time project, learning to do my own 120. I tried the stainless steel reels and
hate them. I've been using this flexible plast strip that snaps back to a
round shape, getting much better at it. This is the one thing I have to master
is consistently loading the damn reels correctly. Freestyle sells this type of
reel (for 120 only, unfortunately) and are very cheap.
I don't know how important it is to remove the backing, but seems like it
would be a problem when developing with chemicals. |
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Xpres
Joined: 11 Dec 2007 Posts: 964 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-10-28
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Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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Xpres wrote:
Very important to remove the backing paper! You can leave it attached until nearly all the roll is wound on and then snip or tear it off.
I love the steel reels. _________________ Film... and sometimes SD14, 5D2 and some other suff! |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:59 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Xpres wrote: |
Very important to remove the backing paper! You can leave it attached until nearly all the roll is wound on and then snip or tear it off.
I love the steel reels. |
I thought I'd love the steel ones, too, but they didn't love me back.
I hear it does depend on what brand of steel reels, too. |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2008 8:52 pm Post subject: Re: Developing 120 |
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peterqd wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
This sounds stupid but have to ask: do you have to peel the paper back before loading film to tank? How does one do it best in the dark? |
The easiest way to load 120 film into a tank is the curl-up clear plastic apron that Bill mentioned. It was originally called the Kodakraft system, but they stopped production years ago. However, the tanks and aprons for 120 are still made by Arista:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=1603&pid=5629
The apron has a turned-back end which forms the centre of the coil, so before loading the film you have to unwind the apron so this end is to hand. You then lay the loose end of the film on the apron with the paper underneath and let the apron wind up by itself, coiling the film inside. You need to do it slowly, in short lengths, to keep the film and apron aligned, and uncoil the film as you go. The paper backing separates from the film and coils up on its own separately. Eventually when you reach the end of the film there is a little piece of self-adhesive tape securing the film to the paper. You can tear this or peel it off, then the paper is separate and you don't need it any more. Finally, just coil up any of the apron still left over and pop the coil into the tank. It's a lot easier to do than describe!
If you want to use a reel, personally I prefer the plastic ones. Each side of the reel has a ball-bearing which grips the film and you can use this to hold one side edge of the film while you engage the other. Being right-handed, I put the film on a flat surface with the coil on the right and the paper backing underneath. The end of the film is at the bottom, pointing to the left, and will want to curl upwards to the right, so the entrances to the spiral should be at the top of the reel, facing to the left. Turn the two sides of the spiral so the two entrances are not in line and then feed the end of the film into the first entrance until the ball bearing grips it, then slowly and carefully turn the other side back so that the spiral entrance slips over the other edge of the film. It helps a lot if the corners of the film have been snipped off. Feed the film in slowly till the other ball-bearing grips it, and then you can twist to and fro to feed the film in. The paper coils up separately as with the apron.
I don't know if you read the sticky at the top of this forum - "Essential Answers". There is a useful discussion about loading 120 film. If you can say which method you're using I can post some pics. _________________ Peter - Moderator
Last edited by peterqd on Sun Nov 16, 2008 12:42 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5044 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 10:37 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Thank you for the advice. I didn't see the paper removal advice in the sticky. Can you add it there? _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 1:43 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
Thank you for the advice. I didn't see the paper removal advice in the sticky. Can you add it there? |
No, you're right this important part was missing, thanks. I've added it now. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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j.lukow
Joined: 03 Oct 2007 Posts: 858 Location: Lindsay Ontario, Canada
Expire: 2021-11-25
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:04 am Post subject: |
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j.lukow wrote:
I remember the apron reels from college - they were my favourites.
Why wouldn't the 120 size work with 35mm - it would still keep the film in position so the only real problem is that you would use twice the amount of chemicals because you couldn't be sure the film was sitting on the bottom or not.
Jim _________________ EMPLOYMENT: That which funded photography and my new woodworking business.j.lukow
Jim's Kit:
Minolta Kit: Minolta X570 & Autowinder G, Minolta SRT200
LENSES:Minolta - 45mm & 50mm F1:2, PF 58mm F1:1.4, Tamron 28mm f1:2.5, Tamron SP 35-80mm f1:2.8/3.8 & CF TeleMacro zoom 80-210 f1:3.8, Vivitar f3.0~4.5 35-200mm macro focusing zoom, f 2.8 28mm CF Wide angle, 2x macro focus teleconverter,Sigma F4 25-250, f 2.8~4 35-70mm zoom master,Tokina SD f4-5.6 70-210 zoom, f4.5 80-200 "Ultra" Zoom,AutoImage 135mm F1:2.8, Spiratone 400mm f1:6.3, Magicon f3.5-4.8 35-70mm macro zoom,Quantary f8-500 Mirror/macro lens, Accura MD mount Macro bellows
M42 Kit:Praktica PLC2,Yashica TL Electro X
LENSES:Meyer Goerlitz Oreston 50mm f1:1.8 , Auto Yashinon DX 1:1.7 50mm,Steinheil Munchen Culminar 135mm f4.5, Adaptall-2 M42 adapter
Zeiss . . . Zeiss Contaflex 126 system, Zeiss Contaflex Super
Medium Format: Pentacon sixTL
Hasselblad 500c/m - CZ 2.8-80mm planar, CZ 4-150mm sonnarCF |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:07 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Hi Jim, the apron has to be the same width as the film. If you remember the aprons, they have moulded indentations along each edge to make sure the picture area of the film isn't in contact with the apron itself. Any contact could prevent the chemicals acting on the emulsion, resulting in blotchy patches - you sometimes see a line of dots along the edges where the indentations have made contact. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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