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ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars
Joined: 03 Nov 2021
Posts: 254
Location: Austria
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 Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2023 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars wrote:
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
I've down-loaded and installed the latest version of N/X Studio.
I have to find the tutorial for it, and find out how to get past the thumbnail images that the application automatically loaded.
I'm not all that much computer literate, so it will probably take a while.
-D.S. |
Yes, that is really solved in a bad way. Up left, there´s a dice as a symbol for the index page. Click that, wait till the program has loaded. Then choose "Browser" from the pulldown menu on the top left. In it is "navigate folders" and some options to go back/forth or choose the upper folder. It´s a bit cumbersome.
_________________
Cheers, Gerhard |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1216
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2024 5:52 am Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
Just noticed the shutter is banding under this lamp:
It is a recent replacement from the $ store. I never had a problem with shutter banding under the old original lamp. Camera seems to be okay away from this lamp so far. It's of course still fine with daylight and flash. Just wondering if this has something to do with lamp type. Camera previously displayed moire effects under more powerful L.E.D. lamps, which was attributed to A.C. pulsing.
I got the camera to band like that once with an L.E.D. battery flashlight as a light source, but just once. I'm hoping the shutter will hold up- it isn't even near halfway to it's useful life-span.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 11067
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2024 9:36 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
Just noticed the shutter is banding under this lamp:
It is a recent replacement from the $ store. I never had a problem with shutter banding under the old original lamp. Camera seems to be okay away from this lamp so far. It's of course still fine with daylight and flash. Just wondering if this has something to do with lamp type. Camera previously displayed moire effects under more powerful L.E.D. lamps, which was attributed to A.C. pulsing.
I got the camera to band like that once with an L.E.D. battery flashlight as a light source, but just once. I'm hoping the shutter will hold up- it isn't even near halfway to it's useful life-span.
-D.S. |
The dimmer works by turning lamp on & off slower to dim, faster is brighter. Called pulse width modulation or PWM. You can wave hand with spread fingers back & forth before the lamp to see strobe effect similar to that seen waving in front of old crt TV screen.
_________________
☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021
Posts: 1438
Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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| Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2024 10:58 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
| visualopsins wrote: |
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
Just noticed the shutter is banding under this lamp:
It is a recent replacement from the $ store. I never had a problem with shutter banding under the old original lamp. Camera seems to be okay away from this lamp so far. It's of course still fine with daylight and flash. Just wondering if this has something to do with lamp type. Camera previously displayed moire effects under more powerful L.E.D. lamps, which was attributed to A.C. pulsing.
I got the camera to band like that once with an L.E.D. battery flashlight as a light source, but just once. I'm hoping the shutter will hold up- it isn't even near halfway to it's useful life-span.
-D.S. |
The dimmer works by turning lamp on & off slower to dim, faster is brighter. Called pulse width modulation or PWM. You can wave hand with spread fingers back & forth before the lamp to see strobe effect similar to that seen waving in front of old crt TV screen. |
Indeed. This is why the replacement of incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs in a like-for-like fitting is an imperfect solution.
Hopefully we will see the emergence of a stable high power DC supply for lighting in homes as standard, and domestic LED lighting will be run of a DC supply rather than AC. Then this problem will be history and lightbulbs can be made simple again without the need for converter circuitry in each and every bulb.
Dimming is a whole different issue as currently the vast majority of LED lamps do not change colour temperature when dimming (may be a personal preference, but I like my lights to get warmer when I dim them).
_________________
Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 11067
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2024 6:28 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Respectfully have to disagree about DC making the problem go away -- dimming DC using PWM also blinks the led light...
_________________
☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021
Posts: 1438
Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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| Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2024 11:25 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
| visualopsins wrote: |
| Respectfully have to disagree about DC making the problem go away -- dimming DC using PWM also blinks the led light... |
Apologies, I didn't qualify my last remark well enough. I wasn't referring to dimmable LEDs but only to the non-dimmable ones (which covers the majority of LED bulbs on sale here in Europe).
The non-dimmable ones of the type shown by the OP have _terrible_ modulation depth causing all sorts of 100Hz/120Hz stroboscopic havoc. DC operation would eliminate that entirely (the bulb LED "filament" topology would need a minor re-design though).
Anyway, let's not get onto my hobbyhorse because I have some major issues with modern energy-efficient lighting systems...
_________________
Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 11067
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2024 4:41 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
| RokkorDoctor wrote: |
| ...Anyway, let's not get onto my hobbyhorse because I have some major issues with modern energy-efficient lighting systems... |
Maybe we should in another dedicated thread. I too have issues with led lighting.
_________________
☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1216
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2024 4:50 pm Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
It seems to mostly clear up around 1/250 sec or slower shutter speed.
I really should get a different lamp for the table top. I spend a lot of time here, especially in the winter.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021
Posts: 1438
Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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| Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2024 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
It seems to mostly clear up around 1/250 sec or slower shutter speed.
I really should get a different lamp for the table top. I spend a lot of time here, especially in the winter.
-D.S. |
If it is just for tabletop lighting for photography I would get something better yes, even if it is less energy efficient. I have a small stock of tungsten bulbs for those photographic situations where LED or fluorescent won't do.
Hint: despite all the strengthening bans on classic tungsten filament bulbs, one type will always remain available: oven bulbs. Semiconductors simply do not survive the 250C baking temperatures.
_________________
Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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