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cilinderman
Joined: 13 Dec 2008 Posts: 317 Location: Canillo, Andorra
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 6:50 pm Post subject: CZJ 135/3.5 and Meyer Orestor 135/2.8 (Pentacon relabeled) |
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cilinderman wrote:
Hi everyone!
I just received my second batch of manual lenses and got two lenses I need you help with.
The lenses I got issues with are the Meyer Orestor relabeled Pentacon 135/2.8 and a Carl Zeiss Jena 135/3.5.
On the first one, the 15 blades monster, everything is OK except that the diaphragm ring only moves between the 11 and the 2.8 mark… so I cannot get 16,22 and 32 marks… Is that normal? I didn’t force too much but it doesn’t seem to be stuck. What can I do?
As for the CZJ 135/3,5 the problem I think it’s bigger. It’s got a Manual/Auto mode and a rear pin. When the switch is Auto, lens are wide open and diaphragm does nothing. As I managed to understand, the auto mode won’t work on my 5D. When I switch to Manual, the rear pin “hides” into the lens (I think this is normal) and the diaphragm gets into the minimum aperture (I guess, f22). Now while moving the diaphragm ring, the diaphragm should open and close but nothing happens….. Diaphragm ring is snappy and everything seems ok. I cannot shoot all the time at f22 . Any guess of what can I do?
Thanks to everyone for getting interested. I really look forward on getting through this issues… the lens are really beauty.
P.S: As soon as I get home I’ll try to post pictures.
P.S: I’m quite noob with mechanical issues . Now it’s time to learn. _________________ 5D & Fujica ST801|| Carl Zeiss Planar MM 50/1.7 (departed for resurrection) || Carl Zeiss Distagon 28/2.8 AEJ || Meyer Orestor "Pentacon" (relabeled) 135/2.8 || Carl Zeiss Jena 135/3.5 || Carl Zeiss Sonnar MM 85/2.8 || Carl Zeiss Flektogon MC "White" 35/2.4 || Olympus Zuiko OM MC 21/3.5 || Super Takumar 55/1.8 || Rollei Planar HFT 50/1.8 || "The three tenors" from Orio (Nikkor pre-AI 85/1.8, 135/3.5 & 105/2.5) |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
About the Pentacon, did you realise this is a preset lens? It sounds as if the preset is set at f11. On these lenses you adjust the setting by lifting the aperture ring towards the front of the lens and turning it to the 32 mark. When you release it you should find you can use all the aperture settings.
And about the Zeiss 135, it sounds as though there might be a problem with the linkage between the aperture dial and the blades. When the A-M switch is on Auto, does the pin operate the blades properly at all apertures? This site tells you how to take the lens apart, clean the parts and reassemble:
http://www.aprd31.dsl.pipex.com/articles/czj135svc/ _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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cilinderman
Joined: 13 Dec 2008 Posts: 317 Location: Canillo, Andorra
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:18 pm Post subject: |
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cilinderman wrote:
As for the Pentacon, I think I just enlighted me. When turning the diaphragm ring to the 11 mark, I realised there was another red mark so as I understand, I can move that mark to 32 . I'll keep in touch . You are my hero.
As for the zeiss, I'll look this link you gave me. I don't know how to cleans or grease a lens but opening just to see I think it's worth to try. As I can remember (not in home now...) when it was on auto and screwing the m42 to EOS adapter, the adapter was pushing the rear pin slowly and the aperture was closing as the pin was getting "inside the lens". I noticed too that the diaphragm ring doesn't do full stops but does 2 or 3 clicks before doing a full stop. I mean from 4 to 5.6 it does (4...click....click...5.6...clic....click..). Is that normal? (This last thing I must verify it, I'm not sure).
Thanks ! _________________ 5D & Fujica ST801|| Carl Zeiss Planar MM 50/1.7 (departed for resurrection) || Carl Zeiss Distagon 28/2.8 AEJ || Meyer Orestor "Pentacon" (relabeled) 135/2.8 || Carl Zeiss Jena 135/3.5 || Carl Zeiss Sonnar MM 85/2.8 || Carl Zeiss Flektogon MC "White" 35/2.4 || Olympus Zuiko OM MC 21/3.5 || Super Takumar 55/1.8 || Rollei Planar HFT 50/1.8 || "The three tenors" from Orio (Nikkor pre-AI 85/1.8, 135/3.5 & 105/2.5) |
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cilinderman
Joined: 13 Dec 2008 Posts: 317 Location: Canillo, Andorra
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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cilinderman wrote:
Thank you very much peterqd The pentacon problem is now solved . Now i have to figure out how to resolve de CZJ . _________________ 5D & Fujica ST801|| Carl Zeiss Planar MM 50/1.7 (departed for resurrection) || Carl Zeiss Distagon 28/2.8 AEJ || Meyer Orestor "Pentacon" (relabeled) 135/2.8 || Carl Zeiss Jena 135/3.5 || Carl Zeiss Sonnar MM 85/2.8 || Carl Zeiss Flektogon MC "White" 35/2.4 || Olympus Zuiko OM MC 21/3.5 || Super Takumar 55/1.8 || Rollei Planar HFT 50/1.8 || "The three tenors" from Orio (Nikkor pre-AI 85/1.8, 135/3.5 & 105/2.5) |
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cilinderman
Joined: 13 Dec 2008 Posts: 317 Location: Canillo, Andorra
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 9:38 pm Post subject: |
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cilinderman wrote:
I cannot believe myself!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just unscrewed the rear element and after looking and trying to analise how the lens work I just noticed the piece of plastic from the diaphragm ring wasn't aligned with the other piece of steel that controls the aperture. Once aligned it just works! This is fantastic! _________________ 5D & Fujica ST801|| Carl Zeiss Planar MM 50/1.7 (departed for resurrection) || Carl Zeiss Distagon 28/2.8 AEJ || Meyer Orestor "Pentacon" (relabeled) 135/2.8 || Carl Zeiss Jena 135/3.5 || Carl Zeiss Sonnar MM 85/2.8 || Carl Zeiss Flektogon MC "White" 35/2.4 || Olympus Zuiko OM MC 21/3.5 || Super Takumar 55/1.8 || Rollei Planar HFT 50/1.8 || "The three tenors" from Orio (Nikkor pre-AI 85/1.8, 135/3.5 & 105/2.5) |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 1:40 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Great work!! Everyone has to make this discovery at some time.
In the old days, before auto-exposure, a preset lens made it more simple to stop down the diaphragm after focussing. You would first set the f stop setting you require by lifting the ring and adjusting the dial. Then you would focus with the diaphragm wide open and then quickly turn the dial to stop down to your setting before firing the shutter. It meant you didn't need to remove the camera from your eye. This is why there are no clicks. Many preset lenses have two dials, one for setting the aperture stop and the other for closing it down.
Nowadays, using a preset lens with auto-exposure is fun. In Av (aperture priority) mode you can use the aperture dial to control the depth of field and the bokeh and the camera will adjust the shutter speed accordingly. _________________ Peter - Moderator
Last edited by peterqd on Sun Jan 18, 2009 2:04 am; edited 1 time in total |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 1:55 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
cilinderman wrote: |
As I can remember (not in home now...) when it was on auto and screwing the m42 to EOS adapter, the adapter was pushing the rear pin slowly and the aperture was closing as the pin was getting "inside the lens". I noticed too that the diaphragm ring doesn't do full stops but does 2 or 3 clicks before doing a full stop. I mean from 4 to 5.6 it does (4...click....click...5.6...clic....click..). Is that normal? (This last thing I must verify it, I'm not sure).
Thanks ! |
Many lenses have clicks in between the stop settings. I just checked my CZJ 135 and there are 3 clicks to move from f3.5 to f5.6, 2 more clicks to f8, 2 to f11, 2 to f16 and 2 to f22.
When the switch is set to Auto, the aperture should remain wide open at any setting and the camera closes it automatically just before firing the shutter by pushing the pin in the rear mount, and then releases it again when the shutter closes. You can test if Auto mode works OK off the camera by setting the dial to f22 and pushing the pin with your finger. The aperture should close quickly and then open again when you release the pin. Sometimes the diaphragm blades on these automatic lenses become sticky and won't open and close fully or quickly, and that's when cleaning is required.
If you use an adapter with a lip which pushes in the pin, the aperture should always close down as you turn the dial. In effect, the lip puts the lens into Manual mode. For lenses with A-M switches, focussing is more reliable and you are less likely to cause any damage to the mechanism if you use a plain adapter without the lip and set the switch on Manual. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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cilinderman
Joined: 13 Dec 2008 Posts: 317 Location: Canillo, Andorra
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Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:17 am Post subject: |
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cilinderman wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
cilinderman wrote: |
As I can remember (not in home now...) when it was on auto and screwing the m42 to EOS adapter, the adapter was pushing the rear pin slowly and the aperture was closing as the pin was getting "inside the lens". I noticed too that the diaphragm ring doesn't do full stops but does 2 or 3 clicks before doing a full stop. I mean from 4 to 5.6 it does (4...click....click...5.6...clic....click..). Is that normal? (This last thing I must verify it, I'm not sure).
Thanks ! |
Many lenses have clicks in between the stop settings. I just checked my CZJ 135 and there are 3 clicks to move from f3.5 to f5.6, 2 more clicks to f8, 2 to f11, 2 to f16 and 2 to f22.
When the switch is set to Auto, the aperture should remain wide open at any setting and the camera closes it automatically just before firing the shutter by pushing the pin in the rear mount, and then releases it again when the shutter closes. You can test if Auto mode works OK off the camera by setting the dial to f22 and pushing the pin with your finger. The aperture should close quickly and then open again when you release the pin. Sometimes the diaphragm blades on these automatic lenses become sticky and won't open and close fully or quickly, and that's when cleaning is required.
If you use an adapter with a lip which pushes in the pin, the aperture should always close down as you turn the dial. In effect, the lip puts the lens into Manual mode. For lenses with A-M switches, focussing is more reliable and you are less likely to cause any damage to the mechanism if you use a plain adapter without the lip and set the switch on Manual. |
It is absolutely as you say . Thank you very much for your time and explanations, they have been VERY useful. _________________ 5D & Fujica ST801|| Carl Zeiss Planar MM 50/1.7 (departed for resurrection) || Carl Zeiss Distagon 28/2.8 AEJ || Meyer Orestor "Pentacon" (relabeled) 135/2.8 || Carl Zeiss Jena 135/3.5 || Carl Zeiss Sonnar MM 85/2.8 || Carl Zeiss Flektogon MC "White" 35/2.4 || Olympus Zuiko OM MC 21/3.5 || Super Takumar 55/1.8 || Rollei Planar HFT 50/1.8 || "The three tenors" from Orio (Nikkor pre-AI 85/1.8, 135/3.5 & 105/2.5) |
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