View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
|
Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 8:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
A G Photography wrote:
estudleon wrote: |
Itself having the conception of positivar the negative in 40 xs 50 or 30 x 40. For it an average of near 90 l/mm or more is required in the negative of 35mm.
If we used a negative of 4x5 or 8x10 it is another thing.
|
I completely agree with this Rino.
If someone want to shoot landscapes to produce good prints the first thing he has to do is buying at least a medium format camera. I never saw a pro landscape shooter using anything smaller than a 6x4,5.
Otherway if we just need images to produce small prints or for the web, 35 mm is enough but then lpm isn't the problem anyway. _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
|
Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 8:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
estudleon wrote:
A G Photography wrote: |
estudleon wrote: |
Itself having the conception of positivar the negative in 40 xs 50 or 30 x 40. For it an average of near 90 l/mm or more is required in the negative of 35mm.
If we used a negative of 4x5 or 8x10 it is another thing.
|
I completely agree with this Rino.
If someone want to shoot landscapes to produce good prints the first thing he has to do is buying at least a medium format camera. I never saw a pro landscape shooter using anything smaller than a 6x4,5.
Otherway if we just need images to produce small prints or for the web, 35 mm is enough but then lpm isn't the problem anyway. |
Alessandro. Im not a professional and I like to do landscapes with my equipment of 35 mm. And I like that the prints looks the better that I can do.
As I do it, someone else can do it too. And for him (and me) the lpm are important.
Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
fergus
Joined: 21 Jan 2009 Posts: 61 Location: Surrey, UK
|
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 9:22 pm Post subject: |
|
|
fergus wrote:
Hi
My first post to this forum. Enjoyed lurking long enough.
For digital photography many of the useful lens filters required for film are not necessary because the effects can be applied by post processing images in camera or on computer. Polarizing filters though are an exception. You can not filter out polarized light with post processing like you can with colour, white balance etc.
Polarizing filters do more than just darken skies
The fish in the above photos could hardly be seen without the use of polarizing filters. Sorry, don't have picture taken without filter, but believe me, it would have been a waste of time.
Fish waits for no man.
The fish in this picture were in the shade of an overhanging tree, so water surface glare and reflection was not to bad. No polarizing filter this time with Pentacon 400mm @ F4 as I don't have polariser big enough to fit this lens and there was not enough light to afford the 2-3 stop loss.
Polarising filter effects can be a bit unpredictable though, depending on subject and light angles. Just as with skies, water will only show a significant effect if condition are right. Take a picture of a car, cutting through glare on paintwork and leaving lovely saturated colours but look at the windscreen and all those stress patterns in the glass, not really what we want It does take practice and experience to know when and when not to use them.
To test whether your filter is in fact polarising, just test with second known polarising lens. Hold one in front of the other and rotate one. If both are polarising you should see a point where the view blacks out.
As to the point of not using filters because they degrade optical resolution, well I think I prefer to have my mediocre fishy pictures to high resolution pictures of glare and reflected sky Chances are my sensor wouldn't know the difference in resolution anyway.
Best regards
Fergus _________________
DSLR: Canon EOS 400D, EOS 40D
SLR: Pentax: LX, MV, Ricoh: KR10 Super, XR6, Canon Pelix, Zeiss Ikon Contaflex Super
Medium Format: Agfa Isolette II, Lubitel 166B, Yashica Mat 124G
Lenses
CZJ: Flektogon 2.8/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 3.5/135 zebra , Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, Sonnar 2.8/180 P6 (Star wars).
Meyer/Pentacon: Lydith 3.5/30, Domiplan 2.8/50, 1.8/50 MC, 4/300,
Russian: Industar-50-2 3.5/50, Helios 44-2, Helios 44M, Helios 44M-4, jupiter-9 2/85MC, jupiter-9 2/85 Kiev/contax (EOS mod), ZM-5A 8/500
Tamron: SP2.5/90 (52BB), CT-135 2.8/135, SP2.5/180 (63B), 3.5/200 Adapt-A-Matic(870Au), SP2.8/300mm (60B), SP35-80mm F/2.8-3.8 (01A), 70-150 F/3.5 (QZ-150M), 70-210 F/3.8-4 (46A), SP70-210 F/3.5 (19AH), SP 60-300mm F/3.9-5.4 (23A), SP 1.4X (140F), SP 2X (01F)
Rikenon XR 3.5/28, XR 2/50, EE 3.5/135
Carl Zeiss: Contax Sonner 2.8/85, Pro-Tessar 3.2/35, 2.8/50, 4/115, Pantar 4/30, 4/75
Leica - Leitz Wetzlar: Macro Elmarit-R 2.8/60
Canon: FL 3.5/35. 1.4/50, 1.8/50, 2.5/135
Olympus - Zuiko: G.Zuiko Auto-W 35/28, F Zuiko Auto-S 1.8/50
Other: Panagor Auto Macro Converter, Voightlander Color-Skopar X 2.8/50, Schneider-Kreuznach Retina-Tele-Arton 4/85, Vivitar Series-1 28-90mm F/2.8-3.5, Tokina RMC 2.8/28mm S, Tokina RMC 80-200 F/4, Hanimex 3.5/135, Pentax-A SMC 1.7/50, Palinar 4/100, Enna Lithagon 4/24, Ina 2.8/35, Harmony 2.8/35, Penaflex-color 2.8/50, Various retina lenses, Various Meopta lenses
Photography Obsession Gallery
Last edited by fergus on Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:03 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
|
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 9:36 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Attila wrote:
fergus wrote: |
Hi
My first post to this forum. Enjoyed lurking long enough.
For digital photography many of the useful lens filters required for film are not necessary because the effects can be applied by post processing images in camera or on computer. Polarizing filters though are an exception. You can not filter out polarized light with post processing like you can with colour, white balance etc.
Polarizing filters do more than just darken skies
The fish in the above photos could hardly be seen without the use of polarizing filters. Sorry, don't have picture taken without filter, but believe me, it would have been a waste of time.
Fish waits for no man.
The fish in this picture were in the shade of an overhanging tree, so water surface glare and reflection was not to bad. No polarizing filter this time with Pentacon 400mm @ F4 as I don't have polariser big enough to fit this lens and there was not enough light to afford the 2-3 stop loss.
Polarising filter effects can be a bit unpredictable though, depending on subject and light angles. Just as with skies, water will only show a significant effect if condition are right. Take a picture of a car, cutting through glare on paintwork and leaving lovely saturated colours but look at the windscreen and all those stress patterns in the glass, not really what we want It does take practice and experience to know when and when not to use them.
To test whether your filter is in fact polarising, just test with second known polarising lens. Hold one in front of the other and rotate one. If both are polarising you should see a point where the view blacks out.
As to the point of not using filters because they degrade optical resolution, well I think I prefer to have my mediocre fishy pictures to high resolution pictures of glare and reflected sky Chances are my sensor wouldn't know the difference in resolution anyway.
Best regards
Fergus |
_________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
|
Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 9:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Attila wrote:
Welcome Fergus!
Nice to see you here, many thanks for this informative first post! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
|
Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 12:16 am Post subject: |
|
|
estudleon wrote:
I like the pics very much.
When I was young, sold aquarium's fishes.
I like them.
Yes, the pol was very necesary in this case.
Regards, Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
fergus
Joined: 21 Jan 2009 Posts: 61 Location: Surrey, UK
|
Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 2:44 am Post subject: |
|
|
fergus wrote:
Thanks for your kind comments Rino.
The orange coloured fish is I think some kind of Koi carp, which would normal be captive within ornamental ponds. This one though was wild and seemed quite happy to be part of a shoal of common and mirror carp. It may be even be native (being born there and may be a little interbreeding ) as I can remember seeing a more exotic Koi carp in this water many years ago probably placed there as an unwanted pet (unlawful and careless act).
Sorry, sort of back on topic now Yes, I certainly remove any filters that are not necessary for the shot in more critical work, but I still like to use plain/skylight/uv filters as lens caps and for shooting in more adverse conditions. This is one case, a picture tells the story best:
Seconds after taking this photo, after-burner came on and I got severely sand blasted and missed the intended series of shots of the jet engined dragster doing its 1/4 mile sprint. When I recovered from my rearward crouched protective position a few seconds later, it was out of sight Anyway the moral of the story is that my skylight filter was wrecked, but lens unharmed. Funny at the time I was more concerned for my camera and lens than my own well being (skin heals, lenses don't ). I can't image with today's health and safety regulations being able to be in that position again, what an adrenalin rush _________________
DSLR: Canon EOS 400D, EOS 40D
SLR: Pentax: LX, MV, Ricoh: KR10 Super, XR6, Canon Pelix, Zeiss Ikon Contaflex Super
Medium Format: Agfa Isolette II, Lubitel 166B, Yashica Mat 124G
Lenses
CZJ: Flektogon 2.8/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 3.5/135 zebra , Sonnar 3.5/135 MC, Sonnar 2.8/180 P6 (Star wars).
Meyer/Pentacon: Lydith 3.5/30, Domiplan 2.8/50, 1.8/50 MC, 4/300,
Russian: Industar-50-2 3.5/50, Helios 44-2, Helios 44M, Helios 44M-4, jupiter-9 2/85MC, jupiter-9 2/85 Kiev/contax (EOS mod), ZM-5A 8/500
Tamron: SP2.5/90 (52BB), CT-135 2.8/135, SP2.5/180 (63B), 3.5/200 Adapt-A-Matic(870Au), SP2.8/300mm (60B), SP35-80mm F/2.8-3.8 (01A), 70-150 F/3.5 (QZ-150M), 70-210 F/3.8-4 (46A), SP70-210 F/3.5 (19AH), SP 60-300mm F/3.9-5.4 (23A), SP 1.4X (140F), SP 2X (01F)
Rikenon XR 3.5/28, XR 2/50, EE 3.5/135
Carl Zeiss: Contax Sonner 2.8/85, Pro-Tessar 3.2/35, 2.8/50, 4/115, Pantar 4/30, 4/75
Leica - Leitz Wetzlar: Macro Elmarit-R 2.8/60
Canon: FL 3.5/35. 1.4/50, 1.8/50, 2.5/135
Olympus - Zuiko: G.Zuiko Auto-W 35/28, F Zuiko Auto-S 1.8/50
Other: Panagor Auto Macro Converter, Voightlander Color-Skopar X 2.8/50, Schneider-Kreuznach Retina-Tele-Arton 4/85, Vivitar Series-1 28-90mm F/2.8-3.5, Tokina RMC 2.8/28mm S, Tokina RMC 80-200 F/4, Hanimex 3.5/135, Pentax-A SMC 1.7/50, Palinar 4/100, Enna Lithagon 4/24, Ina 2.8/35, Harmony 2.8/35, Penaflex-color 2.8/50, Various retina lenses, Various Meopta lenses
Photography Obsession Gallery |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|