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Cheap Tilt&Shift solutions for E-Mount (A7/r and NEX)?
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 7:28 pm    Post subject: Cheap Tilt&Shift solutions for E-Mount (A7/r and NEX)? Reply with quote
I've just stacked an Kiev-88 Nikon adapter on an chinese Nikon-NEX Tilt adapter (~50€ If I remember correctly)
Coverage with Kiev-88 lenses is awesome, no Problem to use them on FF Smile

Here a quick handheld test out of my Windows with Volna-3 80/2.8 and Mir 26b 45mm f/3.5 both wide open




Do you know any non-medium format lenses with decent coverage and no vignetting which could be usable as T/S lens on FF?
Unfortunatly I don't have any Nikon lenses here to test except the 180/2.8 which is a bit long.

Last edited by ForenSeil on Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:11 am; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
tilt with 180mm is fine. you should try it.

I think a shift lens with tilt adapter will be a cheap and good combination on nex FF
like Nikkor 28/3.5 PC, or Pentax 28/3.5 shift, or OM 35/2.8 shift or PC-distagon 35/2.8.

Calvin has posted some newer type tilt and shift (both) for nex, but no review.
It would be interesting to read some experience about them.


PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Visoflex lenses appear to have great coverage (Hektor 135mm for sure - I tested it on 6x9 cm.).
There are adapters to use Visoflex lenses on medium format cameras.
See here some Visoflex lenses used on Pentax 645D:
http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/48-pentax-645d-medium-format/136207-leica-lenses-645d.html


PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 3:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I would try wide angle lenses from Mamiya 645 system. They are not that expensive, could be faster and could have better IQ compared to Pentacon six lenses.


PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
hoanpham wrote:

Calvin has posted some newer type tilt and shift (both) for nex, but no review.
It would be interesting to read some experience about them.


I want to know about this too. I have heard that the adapter is not only very expensive but also poorly made compared to tilt-only adapter from the same source.


PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
T/S Canon 35mm FD seems to remain in demand, it might be much less expensive to adapt either a Pentax 35mm 645 or Mamiya 35mm 645, both would have plenty of coverage for T/S movement on FF digital.

I was using a Pentax 645 45mm recently on a flat stitching rig with a NEX, the Pentax 645 lenses are quite good.


PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
edited

Last edited by bernhardas on Tue Apr 26, 2016 1:10 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I just purchased a EOS/EOS tilt adapter from a Chinese vendor but have yet to try it. Continuously-variable from 0 to 8 degrees with a focus-ring-like adjuster. I bought it to allow me to correct slight tilting of coins for lighting purposes. They offered several versions, including mixed-mounts. I assume this is the same type of adapter you purchased? I'm using MF and LF enlarging/duplicating lenses so coverage is not an issue.

On a related note, can anyone explain why using T/S makes a scene look like a model/diorama? I've seen images using "lensbabies" that are actual scenes but appear to be in miniature, and the images posted here look like that as well.


PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ray Parkhurst wrote:
On a related note, can anyone explain why using T/S makes a scene look like a model/diorama? I've seen images using "lensbabies" that are actual scenes but appear to be in miniature, and the images posted here look like that as well.


Tilting the lens tilts the plane of focus. The traditional way of using a tilt lens is to gain more depth of focus, by tilting the plane of focus to coincide with your subject. Alternatively you can tilt in the opposite way, in way that the plane of focus intersects the subject plane, creating an extremely limited depth of focus. People aren't used to see cityscapes with with a very narrow depth of field and our brain tries to make sense of it by assuming it must be very small, like a diorama.


PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2013 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ray Parkhurst wrote:
On a related note, can anyone explain why using T/S makes a scene look like a model/diorama? I've seen images using "lensbabies" that are actual scenes but appear to be in miniature, and the images posted here look like that as well.


For those new to tilt shift, you can try this with any regular lens. Focus the lens to infinity and detach from body. Then hold the lens against the body and tilt upwards and you will see the top and bottom of the image go out of focus leaving a thin slice sharp. This is also known as "lens whacking" and you can either try to use your hand to stop light leaking into the camera round the back of the lens, or conversely use the light leaks creatively.


PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
SK PA Curtagon 4/35mm is highly regarded, I have seen some sell at E250


PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Pentax or Mamiya 6X7 lenses would need to have a large image circle to cover the 8.4cm diagonal. That would probably work. Try the P67 45mm, which is apparently one of the sharpest ultra-wides ever made for medium format.


PostPosted: Fri Dec 20, 2013 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I understood that the term is called "free lensing." There is a Flickr group dedicated to it, as well as a number of internet articles if one does a search on those key words...

Basilisk wrote:
Ray Parkhurst wrote:
On a related note, can anyone explain why using T/S makes a scene look like a model/diorama? I've seen images using "lensbabies" that are actual scenes but appear to be in miniature, and the images posted here look like that as well.


For those new to tilt shift, you can try this with any regular lens. Focus the lens to infinity and detach from body. Then hold the lens against the body and tilt upwards and you will see the top and bottom of the image go out of focus leaving a thin slice sharp. This is also known as "lens whacking" and you can either try to use your hand to stop light leaking into the camera round the back of the lens, or conversely use the light leaks creatively.


PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
CBokeh wrote:
I understood that the term is called "free lensing." There is a Flickr group dedicated to it, as well as a number of internet articles if one does a search on those key words...


You are probably right that free lensing is a more popular term. The great thing is that any lens can be used on any body. Unfortunately if you use a lens on the correct body you will not be able to get tilt shift effects at infinity as you are by definition increasing the distance from the body. Mirrorless cameras are great for this as, by removing the adaptor, you get plenty of space to tilt your lens in any direction and still get infinity focus. Also using a full frame lens on a APS-C sensor means you can move the lens more before you lose the edges. It also allows you to get some pretty wild bokeh effects on lenses that are not super fast, like a cheap fast fifty.


PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
David wrote:
Pentax or Mamiya 6X7 lenses would need to have a large image circle to cover the 8.4cm diagonal. That would probably work. Try the P67 45mm, which is apparently one of the sharpest ultra-wides ever made for medium format.


If medium format lenses are considered then the Pentax 645 FA 35mm is one of the best wide ever made for this format and has plenty of room for movements on FF (the old A version is very good, too). The old P645 A 55mm is the cheap option, quite sharp stopped down a little.
I wouldn't recommend Mamiya RB/RZ 67 lenses for adapting as T/S. They are, no doubt, very good lenses, very sharp and with a great image circle. But they also are very heavy, bulky, the Mamiya mount makes them almost impossible to adapt to anything and the register distance of 105-112 mm is a bit too long.

The Mamiya7 range-finder lenses are known as the sharpest medium format lenses. It would be very interesting to see them adapted as T/S on FF, but they are expensive.


PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ray Parkhurst wrote:
On a related note, can anyone explain why using T/S makes a scene look like a model/diorama? I've seen images using "lensbabies" that are actual scenes but appear to be in miniature, and the images posted here look like that as well.

I believe there is a good explanation to be found here:
"Using Blur to Affect Perceived Distance and Size" http://graphics.berkeley.edu/papers/Held-UBA-2010-03/Held-UBA-2010-03.pdf
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