Best 6x9 folding rangefinder for landscapes

iangreenhalgh1 · Expire: 2014-01-07

Aha, thanks for that, I did that and it locked into position properly!

ForenSeil · Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.

As far as I remember Acetone could be also used to "haze" polycarbonate (cd jewel cases etc.) that should provide a much finer result than grinding it. I did not try it for such an purpose though.

iangreenhalgh1 · Expire: 2014-01-07

Yes, some solvents will cloud polycarbonate, some will melt it. I have some acetone, I might try it.

Eugen Mezei · Joined: 17 May 2008 Posts: 266

Why should a camera that was never worked on and assembled back incorrectly need focus realignement?

The most important when dissasembling this lenses is to mark exactly the point just before the front cell unscrews. This need to be very exactly, the exactity of the grade angle where it just separated increases with the number of focusing helicoids inside the the lens (around the front cell). Doing this wrong is the most probable way these cameras got misfocused, the second being not putting back the paper shims the factory put between the lens and the faceplate.
As long as nobody disassembled these cameras or at least put them together exactly how they come from the factory I don't see why they should not focus propperly. (Another thing are bent scissors holding the front panel, but that is not about focusing.)

Nesster · Expire: 2014-02-20

Eugen, I think you are correct in theory, and thankfully most of these folders were assembled by Germans, so in practice as well...

However, there's always the possibility that for a given camera 'close enough' was good enough when it came to setting infinity. This due to manufacturing cost considerations + the idea that most folder users would be in a snap shot / contact print world, one where absolute focus accuracy wasn't going to be apparent, and where getting people sharp looking was probably more important than getting infinity correct Wink

And, you never know who monkeyed with the lens and when. Many a photographer learned to take off parts of the lens to clean / swap etc - or saw a pro do so with a view camera. Of course with a front cell focus camera that's a no no Very Happy

Eugen Mezei · Joined: 17 May 2008 Posts: 266

We know front cell focusing isn't best at infinity. So it has a reason if the manufacturer cosindered it would be best to have maximum sharpness somewhere at some meters away, not at infinity.

I agree with you that some cheaper folder could have made in a hurry, without best QC. Even in Germany. Ofcourse this will not happen in an Ikonta or Superikonta. Maybe on a Polo or something like that, but I doubt it also.
I agree most of these cameras were intended to produce contact copy pictures. So just good enough can be the case.

What intrigued me a bit in this thread was the general recomandation to readjust these cameras for focus based on their age. I would say most of them are just fine, so put a film on them and if you wish check with a ground glass but think twice before taking them apart. Always consider if the chances you will get it better than the factory are worth the risc to do it worser.

Nesster · Expire: 2014-02-20

Wise words indeed, Eugen!

Meanwhile since I have this and it sort of fits here: Moskva-2 with Adox CHS ART 50 in D-76 1:1

Shikellamy profile by Nesster, on Flickr

luisalegria · Expire: 2018-01-18

I have tried a dozen of these old German folders.

I can say that the triplets most of them used were very, very good -Trinar, Trioplan, Cassar, Voigtar, Radionar, and "Kodak" Anastigmats.

Going to 1:1 in scans shows that they could indeed be used in an enlarger and not just in contact prints.
This can be confirmed by mounting them on digital; usually the results are perfectly fine as far as resolution.
The only problem with them vis-a-vis a Tessar types is the corners are not so good.

However, the common thing in almost all of them is that -

- There was haze between the elements, requiring removal of the front cell.
- The shutter speeds were slow or sticking on the slow speeds, requiring removal of the front cell cell to at least flush the shutter.
- The front standard was loose, meaning the focus was off. This needs to be adjusted.

After fixing these problems it is almost certain to require resetting infinity.

There are even cheaper folders, with meniscus lenses and the like, as so many of the cheaper Kodaks. Maybe these would be good enough only for contact printing, but I suspect that even these may surprise people.

Eugen Mezei · Joined: 17 May 2008 Posts: 266

iangreenhalgh1 · Expire: 2014-01-07

I must have got lucky with my 1938 Franka Rolfix with Rodenstock Trinar-Anastigmat as it has no issues at all.

luisalegria · Expire: 2018-01-18

All of these German folders can do a great job.

If everything is working properly and correctly adjusted and used with ordinary prudence (wait for decent light, use with light behind you, stop down, use at ranges you can estimate with reasonable accuracy, use high shutter speeds or a tripod, use a hood) there is nothing in them that would let you down.

They are dead simple after all.

The lenses certainly won't fail you. Within their limits, they were all good.

Lloydy · Expire: 2022-01-01

iangreenhalgh1 · Expire: 2014-01-07

Cheers David, what kind of Voigtlander do you have?

If you shoot some BW in it and need it developing, you can send it to me and I'll do it for you if you don't have the kit to do it yourself.

I've got a beautiful Voigtlander Bessa 6x9 with Skopar lens and couple rangefinder here I have the chance to put a roll through before I pass it back to it's owner.