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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 10:32 am Post subject: Beginner's Guide To Color Film Photography |
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Attila wrote:
Please share your thoughts, experience here for beginners! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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hexi
Joined: 01 Jul 2009 Posts: 1631 Location: France
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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hexi wrote:
No answers ? oh well ^.^
I've began to do b&w only, but since sone months i switched to color. Why ?
Easy photography, life colors, no need to "think" b&w , home developing C41 Film gives an unique rendition that digital can't achieve, so why not give it a shot ? ( nice one eh ? )
my experience is more with developing color than shooting with, which is very easy. but you also have to measure light, and think a bit of what rendition you'd like to achieve. Though color film seems easy compared to b&w, like you think all your pictures wil be great shots, but you can miss your shots the same, so beware and play it cool !
many film types are available for all kinds of photo, portrait, landscapes etc from 100 to 800 iso. fuji and kodak are the main suppliers of film, look also for agfa. _________________ Happy owner and user of :
SLR's > Contax Aria - RX
DSLR > Canon 5D
Lenses : C/Y Planar 1.4/50 - Distagon 2.8/35 - Planar 1.4/85
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sonnar85 |
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trev
Joined: 30 Jun 2010 Posts: 580 Location: North Wales - UK
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Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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trev wrote:
What I've been doing with film lately is: take piccies in colour using the usual colour print film, have it processed ONLY and downloaded onto a CD disc, and then once home download disc to PC and using PICASA 3 or ELEMENTS or similar and then manipulate pictures to my satisfaction, can even change into a B+W if the picture is suitable AND I get negs, and disc which I file. Dont half save on PC space that way. _________________ Fuji X10, X-A1 and Samsung nx 20 |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8979 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 8:55 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
After seriously having a go at using Colour film (I still am)...my advice would be don't give up or get down hearted when things don't turn out as you expect.The one shot that turns out makes it all worth while....
Something that is worthwhile always takes time to do well so no rushing or shortcuts with film..... it can be brutal on your expectations... _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 6:53 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Colour negative film is so forgiving as you can make mistakes and still get a picture. Everyone should try film (even if it's been there done it) and once your shots are on negative film, store the negs in a cool dry drawer or cupboard and pass them down to your grandchildren in 40 plus years time to get prints. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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berraneck
Joined: 24 May 2009 Posts: 972 Location: prague, czech republic
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Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:25 am Post subject: |
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berraneck wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
Colour negative film is so forgiving as you can make mistakes and still get a picture. |
That´s true - but on the other side, it is much more difficult to handle to obtain really good pictures. "Amateur" films forgive you more than "professional" ones, because producers expect amateur users to not expose it precisely - they are simply made for bad exposure (even 2-3stops over or 1stop under!). On the contrary, to achieve great results with "professional" films there is much bigger need of precise exposure.
Generally speaking, overexposure of colour negative film isn´t a big deal - colours just get richer saturation. Problem is underexposure, colours get unnatural tones and grain grows much bigger and uglier. For this reason (and with manual-driven shutter cameras) I always add +1/3EV compensation and measure exposure for darkest place in the image. Using colour slides is just opposite of this process. _________________ equipment doesn´t count, good photographs do |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 10:45 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
berraneck wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
Colour negative film is so forgiving as you can make mistakes and still get a picture. |
That´s true - but on the other side, it is much more difficult to handle to obtain really good pictures. "Amateur" films forgive you more than "professional" ones, because producers expect amateur users to not expose it precisely - they are simply made for bad exposure (even 2-3stops over or 1stop under!). On the contrary, to achieve great results with "professional" films there is much bigger need of precise exposure.
Generally speaking, overexposure of colour negative film isn´t a big deal - colours just get richer saturation. Problem is underexposure, colours get unnatural tones and grain grows much bigger and uglier. For this reason (and with manual-driven shutter cameras) I always add +1/3EV compensation and measure exposure for darkest place in the image. Using colour slides is just opposite of this process. |
Hey we are suppose to be encouraging beginners _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 11:01 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
berraneck wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
Colour negative film is so forgiving as you can make mistakes and still get a picture. |
That´s true - but on the other side, it is much more difficult to handle to obtain really good pictures. "Amateur" films forgive you more than "professional" ones, because producers expect amateur users to not expose it precisely - they are simply made for bad exposure (even 2-3stops over or 1stop under!). On the contrary, to achieve great results with "professional" films there is much bigger need of precise exposure.
Generally speaking, overexposure of colour negative film isn´t a big deal - colours just get richer saturation. Problem is underexposure, colours get unnatural tones and grain grows much bigger and uglier. For this reason (and with manual-driven shutter cameras) I always add +1/3EV compensation and measure exposure for darkest place in the image. Using colour slides is just opposite of this process. |
Hey we are suppose to be encouraging beginners |
This, for me, sums up exactly why I like using film much more than digital, and manual focus more than automatic too. It forces you to take more care and judgement.
Everyone who has ever used film has had their disasters. The process of finding out why, and how to avoid them (instead of just adjusting a digital image) is very fulfilling. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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berraneck
Joined: 24 May 2009 Posts: 972 Location: prague, czech republic
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Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 11:40 am Post subject: |
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berraneck wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
Hey we are suppose to be encouraging beginners |
it might seem too "depressive", but I prefer to say everything important rather than only "nice" things - you´re right that film is forgiving, but it´s honest to add the BUT...
the point of my post is to say, that if you´re beginner there´s no need to buy expensive professional films - because it probably won´t bring results which you´re expecting from film. also, when you shoot digital you are probably used to controlling overexposure - which is no problem with negative films, but underexposure may easy ruin your great capture. _________________ equipment doesn´t count, good photographs do |
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Oreste
Joined: 08 Sep 2012 Posts: 451
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Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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Oreste wrote:
berraneck wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
Colour negative film is so forgiving as you can make mistakes and still get a picture. |
That´s true - but on the other side, it is much more difficult to handle to obtain really good pictures. "Amateur" films forgive you more than "professional" ones, because producers expect amateur users to not expose it precisely - they are simply made for bad exposure (even 2-3stops over or 1stop under!). On the contrary, to achieve great results with "professional" films there is much bigger need of precise exposure.
Generally speaking, overexposure of colour negative film isn´t a big deal - colours just get richer saturation. Problem is underexposure, colours get unnatural tones and grain grows much bigger and uglier. For this reason (and with manual-driven shutter cameras) I always add +1/3EV compensation and measure exposure for darkest place in the image. Using colour slides is just opposite of this process. |
This is not quite true. Professional stocks such as Kodak Portra and Fuji's portrait films are actually softer in contrast, giving you more latitude. Amateur films tend to be rather contrasty, giving less latitude.. |
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Oreste
Joined: 08 Sep 2012 Posts: 451
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Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 4:57 pm Post subject: |
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Oreste wrote:
berraneck wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
Colour negative film is so forgiving as you can make mistakes and still get a picture. |
That´s true - but on the other side, it is much more difficult to handle to obtain really good pictures. "Amateur" films forgive you more than "professional" ones, because producers expect amateur users to not expose it precisely - they are simply made for bad exposure (even 2-3stops over or 1stop under!). On the contrary, to achieve great results with "professional" films there is much bigger need of precise exposure.
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Actually, some professional 'portrait' negative films have more latitude than amateur negative films!
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Generally speaking, overexposure of colour negative film isn´t a big deal - colours just get richer saturation. Problem is underexposure, colours get unnatural tones and grain grows much bigger and uglier. For this reason (and with manual-driven shutter cameras) I always add +1/3EV compensation and measure exposure for darkest place in the image. Using colour slides is just opposite of this process. |
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