| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
themoleman342
Joined: 21 Oct 2007
Posts: 2190
Location: East Coast (CT), U.S.A.
Expire: 2013-01-24
|
 Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 1:20 am Post subject: An Unreliable Lens? |
 |
|
themoleman342 wrote:
I've had a Tair 11A for almost 3 years now and still can't seem to work through the apparent IQ quirkiness. Sometimes it produces some of the most incredible images but other times the shots are just appalling (total washout but not overexposed, very very low contrast, and a heavy green tone are the most common). I don't know exactly what is causing the problem; there is no constant factor that would cause it to go from good to bad or visa-versa (except me of course - which I'm almost certain it is). I would invariably say it is a bad copy but that can't explain away the good images. The problem it not aperture dependent - I have got similar problems across the board from f2.8-22. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance
~Marc |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Richard_D
Joined: 21 Oct 2007
Posts: 2378
Location: Faversham Kent UK
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 9:26 am Post subject: Re: An Unreliable Lens? |
|
|
Richard_D wrote:
| themoleman342 wrote: |
I've had a Tair 11A for almost 3 years now and still can't seem to work through the apparent IQ quirkiness. Sometimes it produces some of the most incredible images but other times the shots are just appalling (total washout but not overexposed, very very low contrast, and a heavy green tone are the most common). I don't know exactly what is causing the problem; there is no constant factor that would cause it to go from good to bad or visa-versa (except me of course - which I'm almost certain it is). I would invariably say it is a bad copy but that can't explain away the good images. The problem it not aperture dependent - I have got similar problems across the board from f2.8-22. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance
~Marc |
It sounds like internal flare from the blades, but then that wouldn't happen at 2.8...
_________________
Richard
The interesting bit:
Nikkors: 20mm f2.8 AIS, 24mm f2.8 AIS, 28mm f2.8 AIS, 35mm f2 AIS, 50mm f1.4 AI, 50mm f1.48AI, 50m f2 AI,
55mm f3.5 AI'd, 105mm f4 AI, 135mm f2.8 AI'd, 135mm f3.5 AI'd, 200mm f4 AI'd .
Nikon E Series: 100mm f2.8 .
Soviet Nikon Mount: Zenitar 16mm f2.8, Arsat/arax/photex 85mm T&S f2.8 .
Other: Asahi Super Takumar 55 mm f2 (M42) ,Tamron 300mm f5.6 SP, Tamron 500mm f8 SP.
DSLR: Nikon D700. 35mm SLRsNikon FE, Pentax S1a.
TLR: Rolliecord II.
Sub-Minature: Pentax Auto 110, 18mm f2.8, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f2.8.
More to come... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
rick_oleson
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 386
Location: Lexington Kentucky USA
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 10:26 am Post subject: |
|
|
rick_oleson wrote:
Possibly sunlight (or other light) hitting the lens? Blades or no blades, that will cause flare in the lens and loss of contrast.
_________________
I don't know what I want to be when I grow up |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
orly_andico
Joined: 02 Jul 2008
Posts: 253
Location: Philippines
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 11:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
orly_andico wrote:
maybe you can try using a hood consistently?
I notice that the mir-1v and jupiter-9 are both quite flare prone and suffer huge loss of contrast. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
themoleman342
Joined: 21 Oct 2007
Posts: 2190
Location: East Coast (CT), U.S.A.
Expire: 2013-01-24
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 12:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
themoleman342 wrote:
It does have a built-in hood which I always pull out, maybe it is not substantial enough? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
rick_oleson
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 386
Location: Lexington Kentucky USA
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 1:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
rick_oleson wrote:
I don't generally use a hood, but with a flarey lens follow 2 rules: (1) don't have a light source in the image, and (2) stand in the shade. It usually works pretty well.
_________________
I don't know what I want to be when I grow up |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008
Posts: 3754
Location: Argentina
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 2:07 pm Post subject: |
|
|
estudleon wrote:
It seem to be very abstract question. The blades close all the time to correct F/ ? Pics in backlight ? Use hood?
Rino.
_________________
Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
themoleman342
Joined: 21 Oct 2007
Posts: 2190
Location: East Coast (CT), U.S.A.
Expire: 2013-01-24
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 2:44 pm Post subject: |
|
|
themoleman342 wrote:
Yes it stops down correctly. It is preset, there is no oil on the 20 blades and they are smooth as butter. I imagine in some cases back-lighting could be an issue but I've had pics come out with the same problems despite intentionally staying out of that situation. And like I've said before, I always pull out the built-in but maybe I'll try a bigger screw-in type. I have a number of 55mm hoods so I'll give that a shot. Thanks
~Marc |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008
Posts: 3754
Location: Argentina
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 2:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
estudleon wrote:
It's interesant. If you want, can you send some pics with the problem.
Rino.
_________________
Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008
Posts: 6602
Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 5:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
luisalegria wrote:
I had a similar bad filter problem some months ago. It was really surprising how much it degraded the image.
If a lens seems particularly off, its worth trying it without the filter.
_________________
I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 17633
Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
LucisPictor wrote:
Yep, could be a fliter, internal flaring or even a loose element that only sometimes sits in place.
_________________
Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator 
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008
Posts: 3754
Location: Argentina
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
estudleon wrote:
I insist: If we can see images and lens (delictive's body), it seem to me that could be better.
Rino.
_________________
Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Richard_D
Joined: 21 Oct 2007
Posts: 2378
Location: Faversham Kent UK
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Richard_D wrote:
Is it just on film or on digital - full frame lenses on crop sensors ideally need a longer hood than they do on fullframe/film...
_________________
Richard
The interesting bit:
Nikkors: 20mm f2.8 AIS, 24mm f2.8 AIS, 28mm f2.8 AIS, 35mm f2 AIS, 50mm f1.4 AI, 50mm f1.48AI, 50m f2 AI,
55mm f3.5 AI'd, 105mm f4 AI, 135mm f2.8 AI'd, 135mm f3.5 AI'd, 200mm f4 AI'd .
Nikon E Series: 100mm f2.8 .
Soviet Nikon Mount: Zenitar 16mm f2.8, Arsat/arax/photex 85mm T&S f2.8 .
Other: Asahi Super Takumar 55 mm f2 (M42) ,Tamron 300mm f5.6 SP, Tamron 500mm f8 SP.
DSLR: Nikon D700. 35mm SLRsNikon FE, Pentax S1a.
TLR: Rolliecord II.
Sub-Minature: Pentax Auto 110, 18mm f2.8, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f2.8.
More to come... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
themoleman342
Joined: 21 Oct 2007
Posts: 2190
Location: East Coast (CT), U.S.A.
Expire: 2013-01-24
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 8:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
themoleman342 wrote:
I use the lens just on a film camera. I used to use UV filters in the past, but not in while, so I'm almost certain problems occurred without one.
Unfortunately I'm currently at school so I'm not close to any of my scanning equipment. Maybe in the next few days I'll be able to go home and retrieve some prints to show everyone. Thanks
I actually have pictures of the lens on my flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10403737@N03/2173877630/in/set-72157603651363714/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10403737@N03/2173090219/in/set-72157603651363714/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10403737@N03/2173089407/in/set-72157603651363714/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10403737@N03/2173086145/in/set-72157603651363714/
~Marc |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
Search
Memberlist
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
