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Thomblrr
Joined: 17 Jun 2019 Posts: 8 Location: United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:30 am Post subject: Zeiss Planar 50mm 1.7 front element/group fungus mark |
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Thomblrr wrote:
Hello, this is my first post so I'm sorry if it's in the wrong place. I got a Zeiss Planar T* 50mm 1.7 cheap due to fungus - I've cleaned almost all of it off but there's a tiny bit that appears to be inside the front element group, which I can't separate.
I'm surprised that these expensive lenses would have elements glued together, but I can't see any other way that this could be caused, unless it's been etched?
You can see the mark on the bottom edge of the element, where the lamp reflection appears purple.
http://imgur.com/sOj7Gwu
Any suggestions or tips would be really appreciated. |
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Sciolist
Joined: 29 Mar 2017 Posts: 1445 Location: Scotland
Expire: 2021-04-16
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Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:34 am Post subject: Re: Zeiss Planar 50mm 1.7 front element/group fungus mark |
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Sciolist wrote:
Thomblrr wrote: |
Hello, this is my first post so I'm sorry if it's in the wrong place. I got a Zeiss Planar T* 50mm 1.7 cheap due to fungus - I've cleaned almost all of it off but there's a tiny bit that appears to be inside the front element group, which I can't separate.
I'm surprised that these expensive lenses would have elements glued together, but I can't see any other way that this could be caused, unless it's been etched?
You can see the mark on the bottom edge of the element, where the lamp reflection appears purple.
http://imgur.com/sOj7Gwu
Any suggestions or tips would be really appreciated. |
There you go. Your link should work in this quote. It's a spam prevention thing.
Mmm.. on first glance it looks like coating damage, but I'm guessing, as it's not clear enough in the pic for my old eyes. I'd like to see some more pics if you can. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2019 9:02 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Yes, it's most likely coating damage and, since this fungus is between glued elements, there's really nothing you're gonna be able to do about it. But take heart. You picked up an excellent, expensive lens for cheap -- and what tiny amount of fungus there is that remains will not affect your images at all.
If the fungus is still alive, you can kill it just by making sure your lens is exposed to sunlight. So, take it outdoors on a few bright, sunny days, and thoroughly use it. That should take care of the fungus for good. And, in the future, make sure that the lens is kept in a dry environment and that it sees sunlight from time to time.
Welcome to the forum! _________________ Michael
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My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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aidaho
Joined: 29 Apr 2018 Posts: 456 Location: Ukraine
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Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2019 10:23 am Post subject: |
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aidaho wrote:
I'm fairly sure this spot does not contribute to the in-focus projection on the sensor.
You likely won't even see it in the bokeh-balls, where it's has the best chance of appearing.
There are lenses with more or less guaranteed peripheral coating damage of some degree from the retaining rings, but it does not manifest itself anywhere in the final image. _________________ https://www.flickr.com/photos/curry-hexagon/ |
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Thomblrr
Joined: 17 Jun 2019 Posts: 8 Location: United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2019 10:50 am Post subject: |
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Thomblrr wrote:
Wow, thank you for so many helpful replies so quickly.
http://imgur.com/ITNG1Oh
http://imgur.com/hD96OgJ
Here's a couple more photos courtesy of the backwards lens macro technique!
I'll make sure it sees some sunlight and just shoot with it anyway then - just need a nice contax now... |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10543 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2019 2:59 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Definitely threads of fungus. Right, there should be no effect on images; you might see it in wide open bokeh highlights; stop down to remove use of the outer portion of the front element when image-making. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Zamo
Joined: 08 Feb 2019 Posts: 163
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Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2019 2:25 pm Post subject: |
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Zamo wrote:
I have a Pancolar 50 1.8 with a bit of fungus in the sides, in the middle of two glued-together glasses. Impossible to clean, but does not affect pictures at all, and I have used it under all possible circumstances.
Small advice: when exposing it to the sun to kill it, don’t bake it! If it gets too hot the oils inside it can become too fluid and move where they should not be. Just natural light is ok. |
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aidaho
Joined: 29 Apr 2018 Posts: 456 Location: Ukraine
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Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2019 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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aidaho wrote:
Zamo wrote: |
I have a Pancolar 50 1.8 with a bit of fungus in the sides, in the middle of two glued-together glasses. Impossible to clean, but does not affect pictures at all, and I have used it under all possible circumstances.
Small advice: when exposing it to the sun to kill it, don’t bake it! If it gets too hot the oils inside it can become too fluid and move where they should not be. Just natural light is ok. |
I've noticed faster lenses to be more affected then slower ones.
F1.4 @ F1.4, yes, depending on how much contamination is there, you might be able to see (some/a lot of) difference.
F2 and slower can take a lot more.
I've had a fairly heavily contaminated (dust, debris, stains and coating damage) 100/2.8, before I've got a mint copy of the same lens.
Mint one was pretty much a waste of money. _________________ https://www.flickr.com/photos/curry-hexagon/ |
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