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Phalbert
Joined: 17 May 2009
Posts: 262
Location: Namibia
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 Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 9:16 am Post subject: |
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Phalbert wrote:
[quote="europanorama"]yes thats true just came out from a test with zeiss 50/1.4 or 85/1.4- the f1.4 is at least 1/3- 1/2 stop darker clearly. in other words zeiss was cheating. will investigate further. one can also adjust light and change aperture. this way shutter-accuracy is not involved. best would be using film and resp. greyscale-card-and densitometer. i can then also check shutter-accuracy.
and digital cam shutter to be verified or tested the same way like with analog cam.
i compared f 1.4 to a f 1.5. f1.5 is about 1/3 darker.
yes i tested center with eye. its darker clearly. same discussion in a german forum.
just wanted to ask about the 135/1.8.
i have both CY 50/1.4 and Super Takumar 50/1.4 so i will compare asap.
.....................................................................................................
Which is darker for you. The CY 50 or the 85? I'm going to compare mine too.
Which 135/1,8 do you mean? The Sigma YS?
I did compare the 50 CY to the Takumar (the 8 elements with no yellowing. Therefore no loss of light) . That's when I started wondering about the differences.
In another thread I mention a 200mm f3,3 being quite darker than a 3,5. Let's just remember that if the real speed of any lens is important, we should test them. (except maybe the modern pro lenses?) 
_________________
🙋 My wishlist: Titan or Idaho 135/1,8; EF 85/1,2 L Nikon Df Vivitar 35-85 f2,8 AI Nikkor 105/1,8
My favorites:
Zuiko 50/1,2 50/1,4 50/3,5 Mc 85/2 100/2 300/4,5
Konica 50/1,4 55/3,5 Mc 57/1,2 57/1,4 85/1,8 135/2,5
FD 50/1,4 55/1,2 SSC 85-300/5
Nikon 35/2S 50/1,4S 50/1,2AIS 50/2 AI 55/1,2S 180/2,8AI 300/4,5 H 500/8 C Sigma YS 135/1,8
MD 50/1,4 58/1,2
PK Sigma 15/2,8 Tok ATX 90/2,5 150-500 Makinon 400/6,7 400/5,6M
M42 Cunor 105/2,8 Biotar 75/1,5 MOG 250/5,5 Polaris 55-300/4,5 Soligor 180/3,5 200/2,8CD
Helios 44-2 44-4
CY Planar 50/1,4 50/1,7 85/1,4AEJ 80-200/4 Mutar II
Tamron 35-105/2,8 24/2,5 500/8RF
Yashica 50/1,4DX 5cm/2 500/8RF
Takumar 50/1,4 8el 50/1,4 7el 50/1,4SMC 55/1,8 300/4
My stolen stuff: Zuiko 24/2 #106874; Zuiko 35-80/2,8 #102180; Zuiko 35/2 #119168; Zuiko 90/2 macro #102858; Zuiko x1,4 converter #102019; Tamron 17/3,5 #400567; Tamron 400/4 #80407; Soligor 135/2 #17506600 Sigma 28/1,8 #1001124 |
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ZoneV
Joined: 09 Nov 2009
Posts: 1648
Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
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| Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 11:32 am Post subject: |
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ZoneV wrote:
| blotafton wrote: |
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So it seems to be true that the lens makers don't want to show the finer details. |
I would not trust the optical diagrams too much. They don´t want to give too much details.
Thank you very much for that link, those patents and the linking to existing lenses is quite interessting - even when they are very likely not 100% accurate, they give an idea!
_________________
Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
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blotafton
Joined: 08 Aug 2013
Posts: 1248
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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blotafton wrote:
I have noticed that my C/Y Planar has warmer tones than other lenses. That means some of blue light is being blocked from passing through. That should reduce the T-stop. |
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europanorama
Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 78
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| Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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europanorama wrote:
[quote="Phalbert"]
| europanorama wrote: |
yes thats true just came out from a test with zeiss 50/1.4 or 85/1.4- the f1.4 is at least 1/3- 1/2 stop darker clearly. in other words zeiss was cheating. will investigate further. one can also adjust light and change aperture. this way shutter-accuracy is not involved. best would be using film and resp. greyscale-card-and densitometer. i can then also check shutter-accuracy.
and digital cam shutter to be verified or tested the same way like with analog cam.
i compared f 1.4 to a f 1.5. f1.5 is about 1/3 darker.
yes i tested center with eye. its darker clearly. same discussion in a german forum.
just wanted to ask about the 135/1.8/YS btw just tested sigma YS 16mm fisheye on eos 60D APS-C. its crap lot of CA and unsharp edges maybe only for SRL. made a lensshade from existing parts successfully!!!but sun most be outside image otherwise image is crap.
i have both CY 50/1.4 and Super Takumar 50/1.4 so i will compare asap.
.....................................................................................................
Which is darker for you. The CY 50 or the 85? I'm going to compare mine too.
Which 135/1,8 do you mean? The Sigma YS?
I did compare the 50 CY to the Takumar (the 8 elements with no yellowing. Therefore no loss of light) . That's when I started wondering about the differences.
In another thread I mention a 200mm f3,3 being quite darker than a 3,5. Let's just remember that if the real speed of any lens is important, we should test them. (except maybe the modern pro lenses?) |
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europanorama
Joined: 27 May 2012
Posts: 78
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| Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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europanorama wrote:
i updated within old thread. sigma YS meant 135/1.8 discussed here.
i tested 85/1.4 quickly for aperture accuracy. must recheck didnt compare yet 50 and 85 regarding lightloss.
my subject outside window is most ideal to check center. also have 50/1.7. and ML counterpart.
soon i will have the sigma EX DC 10mm AF. 16mm equiv. on APS-C. will think about sunshade. its the one from mamiya for RB/RZ 80mm-lenstube to stick-on. Rafcamera made 82 and 77mm adapters for me. see his shop.
shade surface must be enlarged. mostly for FF. on crappy sigma 16 YS flare could be removed when sun is just outside image. it has a donot-like adapter for their lensshade. will test on SRL and decide if we need perfect adapter. donut-ring will further limit angle. maybe better using it for APS-C. will investigate further later. one can also hold this adapter/cam on tripod or make a swanneck for making adjustments for every shot. had to learn how this fisheye is built how frontlens is fixed. if not knowing and if manipulating lens one could encounter surprises.
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