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awwwnuh
Joined: 07 Jun 2009 Posts: 21 Location: California
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Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:47 pm Post subject: Vivitar 35-105mm f/3.5 |
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awwwnuh wrote:
I bought this lens at a thrift store over the weekend and I'm not sure it was a good idea. one of the rear elements is pock-marked (fungus? sandblasting? haha) and I feel like it's not particularly sharp. I'm still pretty new so I don't know, maybe this is just how this lens is. (the not-sharpness, not the weird element)
here's the non-edited first shot from before I bought it. There's a Canon AE-1 with a FL 35mm f/2.5 on the shelf that I contemplated getting.
and here's something a bit prettier from school. I upped the contrast a bit in photoshop.
_________________ Canon 10D
MF: Mamiya Sekor 55mm f/1.4 (M42), Helios-44M, Vivitar 28mm f/2.8 (M42), Albinar 135mm f/2.8 (PK), Sears 55mm f/1.4 (M42), Vivitar 35-105mm f/3.5 (m42)
AF: Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8, Quantaray 19-35mm f/3.5-4.5 |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
That 2nd shot looks ok. Are you not happy with the lens? _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
If the first shot was done with a Holga/plastic lens I'd be happy, otherwise,
not so happy. Can you take a pic of the rear element? Would like to see
the severity of the sandblasting, or how robust the mushroom farm is
growing, on it. |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
Katastrofo wrote: |
If the first shot was done with a Holga/plastic lens I'd be happy, otherwise,
not so happy. Can you take a pic of the rear element? Would like to see
the severity of the sandblasting, or how robust the mushroom farm is
growing, on it. |
It's through glass though I think. If not then it's a Holga. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 2:22 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Recently bought a Kiron 28-105 and it's very good.
A test shot at 28mm and initial impression of the lens is:- it's less sharp at 105mm end, but will check it again with tripod.
A small bit of sharpening in PS as neg wasn't drum scanned:-
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn172/chakrata/kiron28-105.jpg _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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awwwnuh
Joined: 07 Jun 2009 Posts: 21 Location: California
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Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 10:51 pm Post subject: |
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awwwnuh wrote:
I'm honestly not sure why the first shot is so terrible. I guess I wasn't trying.
I'm becoming much happier with the lens. I mean, I took this today:
And here's the rear element:
_________________ Canon 10D
MF: Mamiya Sekor 55mm f/1.4 (M42), Helios-44M, Vivitar 28mm f/2.8 (M42), Albinar 135mm f/2.8 (PK), Sears 55mm f/1.4 (M42), Vivitar 35-105mm f/3.5 (m42)
AF: Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8, Quantaray 19-35mm f/3.5-4.5 |
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Screamin Scott
Joined: 13 Oct 2007 Posts: 1014 Location: Dallas, Georgia USA
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 12:22 am Post subject: |
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Screamin Scott wrote:
That doesn't look like fungus, but looks as though some of the lubricant "gassed out" & deposited itself on the element. It should clean up rather easily... _________________ Cameras-Nikon D300, D7100,D610,FE2,FTN ,FT2,N90s, Olympus Pen EP-3 & Olympus OM-D E-M10
Nikkor AF Zooms=28-105/3.5D,28-70/3.5D,35-135/3.5, et al
Nikkor AF //50/1.8,//Nikkor MF//50/2ai,50/1.8ais 50/1.4ai,24/2.8ais,28/2.8ai,28/3.5ai,55microAis/2.8,105/2.5ai,200/4ai,300/4.5ai35-135/3.5Ais,et al
Kiron /Kino made lenses//70-210/4ai,28-105/3.2ai,30-80/3.5ai,Viv 28/2ai,35-85/2.8aiVivS1,105/2.8Ais Dine,24-48/3.8ai VivS1,50-150/3.8aiViv,28-85/2.8aiViv,100/2.8Nai Viv,70-210/3.5Nai Viv,28/2.5ai Viv Komine made Viv//24/2Ais,135/2.8aiCF,28-50/3.5ai,28-90/2.8ai Viv S1,80-200/4.5aiCosina made Viv 19/3.8 Ais...Also Sigma 24/2.8 Ais Tokina made24/2.8ai VivAF Sigma 21-35/3.5,& other lenses... A link to some of my Flickr albums...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/screaminscott/albums |
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Big Dawg
Joined: 28 Jan 2009 Posts: 2530 Location: Thach Alabama
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 1:04 am Post subject: |
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Big Dawg wrote:
I agree with Scott! _________________ Big Dawg |
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Boomer Depp
Joined: 08 Oct 2009 Posts: 552 Location: Kingston,Washighton
Expire: 2011-12-04
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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Boomer Depp wrote:
The Vivitar 35-105 is an impressive lens with a large multicoated 72mm front element that requires a hood to get the most out of the lens in bright sunny conditions.
I find this lens a beauty to behold,but in practice it is really exasperating to shoot. Hand held or mounted on a tripod,this lens likes to be shot with a unhurried precise focusing to get the most out of it.This lens really tries my patience when shooting,and if I hurry my shots delivers mediocre results.If I take my time and am quite deliberate,only then am I rewarded with a good image.This has prompted me to shoot this lens mounted on tripod with mirror lock up at times to achieve the best results.It is rare to find a lens that is this difficult to shoot.Amazingly,this lens had a loyal following back in the day,by those who liked the lens.
The unique feature of this lens is the close focus detente which allows a minimum focus of 11.4 inches in the close range and 4.6 feet in the normal setting in the fixed mount version (the TX version is 13.7 in. in the close range and 5.6 feet in the normal setting)
It's reproduction ratio is 1:5 in the fixed mount and 1:5.8 in the TX version.
This was Vivitar's heaviest lens in this zoom focal range back in the day,with 13 elements in 11 groups.Weighing 24.7 oz. in the fixed mount and 29 oz. in the TX version (the 2nd compact TX Version is 26.2 oz).It has an overall length of 4 inches in the fixed mount and 4.5 in. in the TX mount (2nd compact TX is 3.7 in.) and a maximum barrel diameter of 3 in. in all versions.
The various versions of this lens have either a switch for the close range detente or as pictured below no switch.With the lens pictured simply turn the focus ring to the close range to achieve close focus and turn the zoom ring to the desired focal length.I've also seen a few that don't have the close range engraved on the lens.
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fatdeeman
Joined: 13 Jun 2009 Posts: 780 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 9:11 pm Post subject: |
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fatdeeman wrote:
Boomer Depp wrote: |
The Vivitar 35-105 is an impressive lens with a large multicoated 72mm front element that requires a hood to get the most out of the lens in bright sunny conditions.
I find this lens a beauty to behold,but in practice it is really exasperating to shoot. Hand held or mounted on a tripod,this lens likes to be shot with a unhurried precise focusing to get the most out of it |
It's funny you say that because I have the 70-150mm Vivitar and it looks just like this one but it's a Kiron and I think the 35-105 is Tokina.
But what you said about the focusing and having to take your time sounds familiar, it's like the travel of the focus ring is far too short and you have to make incredibly tiny adjustments to the focus to get it right, it's almost like shooting with a lens that has a much larger aperture!
It's well worth the effort though! The sharpness wide open is really good for an older zoom even at 150mm.
I have found the 35-105, 70-150 and 75-205mm Vivitars to all be excellent performers. _________________ - Dave
www.lensporn.net
www.flickr.com/photos/fatdeeman/
DSLR: Canon EOS 60D, Samsung GX-1S (Pentax *ist DS2)
Mirrorless: Panasonic DMC-G1, Sony NEX-5N
Compact: Canon PowerShot G3
Lenses:
Wide: Tokina RMC 28mm F/2.8, Tamron Adaptall 2 28mm F/2.5, Sun Optical 28mm F/2.5, Super paragon 28mm F/2.8, Sigma filtermatic 24mm F/2.8, Fujinon 35mm F/2.8, Sun Optical 35mm F/2.8
Standard: Industar 50-2, Helios 44-2, Helios 44M, Helios 44M-3, Pentax-M 50mm F/1.4, Pentax-M 50mm F/1.7, Pentax-M 50mm F/2, Ricoh 50mm F/1.7, Chinon 50mm F/1.7
Tele: Pentacon 135mm F/2.8, Pentacon 200mm F/3.5, Optomax 200mm f/3.5, Sun Optical 135mm F/3.5, Soligor 350mm F/5.6
Zoom: Tokina 28-70mm f/3.5-4.5 SZ-X270 SD, Sigma Zoom Pi 35-200mm F4-5.6, Sun Optical 28-80mm F/3.5-4.5, Sunagor 80-205mm F/3.8, Tokina RMC 80-200mm F/4, Vivitar 70-150mm F/3.8, Tamron 95-205mm F/6.3, Tamron Adaptall 28-200mm F/3.8-5.6 LD Aspherical, Tokina RMC 70-210mm F/3.5
Mirror: Falcon (Samyang) 800mm F/8, MTO-11CA 1000mm F/10, Tamron Adaptall 2 500mm F/8
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Boomer Depp
Joined: 08 Oct 2009 Posts: 552 Location: Kingston,Washighton
Expire: 2011-12-04
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Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 10:24 pm Post subject: |
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Boomer Depp wrote:
Yes the close focus two ring versions have a similar style,but the 35-105 seems to require just a bit more deliberate patience focusing....or maybe it's just a knowing that I have to really work at it with this lens,that I find the struggle.The 70-150 and the 75-205 are nice lens that deliver pleasing results as well.
The second version of the Vivitar 70-150 by Kiron with the one touch push/pull,does require exacting focus to deliver sharp images.I also have the Nikkor 75-150 which supposedly has the same optics built by Kiron that I've never shot mounted on a DSLR....I need to give that lens some digital exercise. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 3:24 am Post subject: Re: Vivitar 35-105mm f/3.5 |
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cooltouch wrote:
awwwnuh wrote: |
There's a Canon AE-1 with a FL 35mm f/2.5 on the shelf that I contemplated getting.
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I used to own a Canon FL 35mm f/2.5. Wouldn't mind owning another one, actually. Back in the day, that 35 FL was one of my favorite lenses. If the price for the pair is reasonable, I'd recommend going for it.
Palos Verdes, California at sunset, circa 1984. Canon FTb, FL 35mm f/2.5, Kodachrome 64.
_________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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awwwnuh
Joined: 07 Jun 2009 Posts: 21 Location: California
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Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 8:10 pm Post subject: |
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awwwnuh wrote:
Scott, thanks! I was really hoping it wasn't fungus. How would I go about cleaning it though?
cooltouch, that's a lovely shot. The camera+lens was $25 but there's no guarantee it's still there now. Also I'd want to use the 35/2.5 on my 10D but I feel like I read adapting FL-EOS isn't possible.
and I completely concur that the 35-105 is kind of a pain to focus. _________________ Canon 10D
MF: Mamiya Sekor 55mm f/1.4 (M42), Helios-44M, Vivitar 28mm f/2.8 (M42), Albinar 135mm f/2.8 (PK), Sears 55mm f/1.4 (M42), Vivitar 35-105mm f/3.5 (m42)
AF: Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8, Quantaray 19-35mm f/3.5-4.5 |
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