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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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 Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2022 8:46 am Post subject: Minolta... |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
... XG-1.
With 45mm f2 Rokkor "X".
I'll get a clear photo of the somewhat dirty body in good daylight.
Daughter brought it from the thrift store.
The batteries in it were dead, so I'll have to get a pair in the morning.
Hopefully, it will at least trip the shutter.
I managed one pic with it reversed against the flange of the D-810...
Are Rokkor "X" lenses the equivalent of Nikon Series "E" ?
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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DigiChromeEd
Joined: 29 Dec 2009
Posts: 3462
Location: Northern Ireland
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| Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2022 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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DigiChromeEd wrote:
The "X" designation was added for the US market. The lenses are exactly the same as the non X version.
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"I've got a Nikon camera, I like to take a photograph" - Paul Simon |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2022 5:19 pm Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
Grindy plastic icky yuck for a m/f lens- but this one could be a beater.
Aperture ring requires visual attention when it's manipulated- to make sure it's at the stop-set.
Heading out for batteries soonish...
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2022 6:37 am Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
The good news is that the shutter works with a couple of new SR-44 batteries in it.
There's a slightly more clear look at the camera front.
The black neoprene jacketing on it is more slick than grippy.
Other than that, quite nice ergonomics.
Very nice dimensions and weight.
Fuzzy look at the top plate controls. Doc yanked focus again. Most here should be able to get the idea of what's what...
Bottom plate showing winder linkages and battery compartment.
Camera takes two SR-44 batteries.
D.I.N./ASA conversion scale on the film door shows metering range of the camera.
Factory accessory spare battery compartment on the neck-strap.
A very good idea for a totally battery dependent film camera of it's era.
I have a long ways to go with cleaning this camera.
It is quite scuffed up as well.
The nasty cigarette smoke residue is all over this one- not as bad as some that have passed through my hands, but still nasty.
That mixture of residue and household dust takes a bit of effort to clear away.
I'm a long-time smoker myself, but don't quite get the subject everything in the house to smoke idea.
I haven't smoked inside the house for the last 10 years, but even when I did, the cameras were well protected in their camera bags and hard cases.
I do need to clean the focusing screen a bit before I run a trial roll of film through it.
The view finder is a bit dark compared to my benchmark F2, but most are with the exception of the FE/FM series.
There is no aperture information in the view finder, and the kit lens has half aperture f-stops...
-D,S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021
Posts: 1271
Location: Kent, UK
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| Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2022 9:00 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
I do need to clean the focusing screen a bit before I run a trial roll of film through it.
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Be careful with those Minolta focusing screens. The acute matte prisms, microprisms and wedge are on the side of the screen facing the pentaprism, the side facing the mirror box has a Fresnel lens surface. These screens are made of a relatively soft plastic and both sides are very sensitive to scratching.
There is a good chance on this age Minolta camera that there are a decent number of specks of deteriorated (& disintegrated) light-trapping foam caught between the focus screen and the pentaprism. Honestly, unless you are familiar with removing, cleaning, and replacing Minolta X-series focus screens those dust specks are probably best ignored and left as is, as annoying as they may be. For one thing, the way these screens are suspended in a (thin!) adjustable frame with a catch at the front and spring-loaded chamfered clips on the rear edge means that removing, cleaning & replacing the screen will almost certainly require a re-collimation of it for good accuracy.
_________________
Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2022 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
Thanks Mark.
I can't quite get the hang of metering with this camera.
Viewfinder L.E.D.'s only come on with shutter selector either on "A" or "ASA".
From B-1/1000 sec, nothing lights up to show suggested exposure.
Is this the way the camera functions, or am I missing something?
The focusing screen cleared with a couple of jets from the Hurricane blower.
Removal was un-necessary, and it looks sort of trick without the proper tools.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021
Posts: 1271
Location: Kent, UK
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| Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2022 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
Thanks Mark.
I can't quite get the hang of metering with this camera.
Viewfinder L.E.D.'s only come on with shutter selector either on "A" or "ASA".
From B-1/1000 sec, nothing lights up to show suggested exposure.
Is this the way the camera functions, or am I missing something?
The focusing screen cleared with a couple of jets from the Hurricane blower.
Removal was un-necessary, and it looks sort of trick without the proper tools.
-D.S. |
I've never had that earlier model XG-1 you have there, but I believe the main differences with the later model were cosmetic rather than functional. The later model indeed only had the shutter speed showing in the viewfinder when set to "A", or it showed an "M" in the viewfinder when manually set to any specific shutter speed. It is rather a simple exposure system  . It is possible the earlier model XG-1 didn't even show the "M" when set to a manual speed, but it could also be a dirty switch.
_________________
Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2022 6:38 am Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
I can't find an "A" or "M" in the viewfinder at all.
Shutter speed scale goes from 1/30 to 1/1000. There are four hyphens below that, and a 1 sec indication.
A dirty switch could be a definite possibility on this camera.
I'll find the Butkus manual for it later.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021
Posts: 1271
Location: Kent, UK
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| Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2022 10:06 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
I can't find an "A" or "M" in the viewfinder at all.
Shutter speed scale goes from 1/30 to 1/1000. There are four hyphens below that, and a 1 sec indication.
A dirty switch could be a definite possibility on this camera.
I'll find the Butkus manual for it later.
-D.S. |
Maybe I wasn't clear; there is no "A" in the viewfinder, ever. The newer XG-1 only has a limited selection of shutter speeds showing in the viewfinder that indicates the automatically set shutter speed when set to "A" (aperture priority) on the shutter speed dial. The hyphens below that light up when the automatic shutter speed is slower than 1/30s. When set to a manual shutter speed, the viewfinder only shows an "M", but the older XG-1 may then show nothing at all...
The newer XG-1 also has two little triangles that show either over or under exposure if the conditions are outside the range for automatic metering.
_________________
Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2022 10:16 am Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
| RokkorDoctor wrote: |
Maybe I wasn't clear; there is no "A" in the viewfinder, ever. The newer XG-1 only has a limited selection of shutter speeds showing in the viewfinder that indicates the automatically set shutter speed when set to "A" (aperture priority) on the shutter speed dial. The hyphens below that light up when the automatic shutter speed is slower than 1/30s. When set to a manual shutter speed, the viewfinder only shows an "M", but the older XG-1 may then show nothing at all...
The newer XG-1 also has two little triangles that show either over or under exposure if the conditions are outside the range for automatic metering. |
There is no "M" in the viewfinder either.
Just came from the Butkus manuals site, and there is no metering in manual mode- the camera has to be set to "A" for metering activation, and then back to shutter speed. All of which was likely designed to get the photographer using "A" mode in most situations.
A bit of a strange experience, this camera. Interesting, and I like it.
There's a short roll of very old Kodak C-41 400 B&W film in it now.
I definitely have to wear my readers to focus with it.
We shall see....
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011
Posts: 3754
Location: Switzerland
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| Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2022 5:08 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
Just to make sure you know what you are dealing with: Both the XG-1 as well as the MD 2/45mm were "bottom of the line" (ie the cheapest Minolta SLR / lens available at the time).
I have quite a few slightly different versions of the XG-1, and they don't have the (bright) "Acute Matte" screen of the higher priced models (e. g. XG-9 and XD series).
The MD 2/45mm lens is one of the very few "plasticky" Rokkors (is there another one at all ??), but optically it is quite good in spite of the demanding angle of view (for a planar, that is). Now wonder Minolta went back to 50mm later on, with the MD-III 2/50mm.
I've never really been using an XG camera myself, but being entrance level SLRs they seem to be pretty solid and well designed. All the XG cameras have cloth shutters (1s - 1/1000s) and aperture priority AE. Light is measured by a CdS cell. The body shell is made from a hybrid plastic / metal material also used in the X-700 (and the Nikon FA).
* The XG-1 had LEDs from 1/1000s down to 1/30s (plus one for the 1/15s ... 1s)
* The XG-2 (XG-7 in US) and XG-9 both have LEDs from 1/1000s down to 1s
* the XG-9 has "Acute Matte" bright screen as well as depth-of-field preview button and a periscope system showing the aperture in the viewfinder
The high end XD series had a metal shutter, a metal body, shutter and aperture priority AE, Acute Matte exchangeable screens, and a very well dampened mirror mechanism which probably was the smoothest of its time.
Anyway - enjoy your new toy and let us know about your experiences
S
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www.artaphot.ch |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2022 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
I still need to watch for an XK- but I doubt I'd buy it- just to look at, and maybe get hooked on  
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2022 5:35 am Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
The Rokkor-X 45mm f2 is a bit of an oddity, all right.
Aperture is 5 blades.
I thought I was seeing things, and counted 3 times, just to make sure.
I should look around a bit for some cheap MD glass for this camera- if it can be found.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5019
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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| Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2022 7:15 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
The Rokkor-X 45mm f2 is a bit of an oddity, all right.
Aperture is 5 blades.
I thought I was seeing things, and counted 3 times, just to make sure.
I should look around a bit for some cheap MD glass for this camera- if it can be found.
-D.S. |
Plenty of non Minolta made lenses available and some are excellent.......worth checking the forum for the good ones.
_________________
Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011
Posts: 3754
Location: Switzerland
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| Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2022 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
[quote="Excalibur"]
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
I should look around a bit for some cheap MD glass for this camera- if it can be found.
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Good idea
| Excalibur wrote: |
| Plenty of non Minolta made lenses available and some are excellent.......worth checking the forum for the good ones. |
Naahh ... !!
Obvious suggestion for the XG series would be MD-I and MD-II lenses, but when you have an eye on the XK/XM, then I would suggest the MC-X series (can be used without any problem on the XG series).
MC-X 1.4/50mm is available at reasonable prices, and very nicely built.
Some of the cheaper MC-X lenses are the 2.8/35mm (be sure to get the later 5L version, not the earlier 7L):
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/150-minolta-35mm-f28
Also quite affordable is the MC-X 2.8/28mm and even more so the MC-X 3.5/28mm (get the 5L version as well!):
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/147-minolta-28mm-f28
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/148-minolta-28mm-f35
Of course the MC-X 2.8/135mm is a good choice - both the 6L and the 4L are equally well suited. The first version of the MC-X 3.5/135mm has an exceptionally smooth focusing, btw:
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/171-minolta-135mm-f28
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/172-minolta-135mm-f35
I can also recommend the MC-X 4/200mm - certainly one of the best vintage 4/200 lenses:
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/176-minolta-200mm-f4
The MC-X 3.5/200 is a huge and heavy beast, but often quite inexpensive:
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/175-minolta-200mm-f35
My personal favourites are the following MC-X lenses: 2.8/16mm Fisheye, 2.8/21mm, 2.5/28mm, 1.8/35mm, 1.4/50mm, 1.2/58mm, and 1.7/85mm.
The later MD-I/II series has a few nice lenses as well: 4/17mm (also available as MC-X), 2/28mm (also available as MC-X), 1.8/35mm (new small computation), 1.2/50mm, 2/85mm, 2.5/100mm, and 4.5/300mm IF (the latter with lots of CAs though).
S
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www.artaphot.ch |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5019
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2022 7:11 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
[quote="stevemark"]
| Excalibur wrote: |
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
I should look around a bit for some cheap MD glass for this camera- if it can be found.
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Good idea
| Excalibur wrote: |
| Plenty of non Minolta made lenses available and some are excellent.......worth checking the forum for the good ones. |
Naahh ... !!
Obvious suggestion for the XG series would be MD-I and MD-II lenses, but when you have an eye on the XK/XM, then I would suggest the MC-X series (can be used without any problem on the XG series).
MC-X 1.4/50mm is available at reasonable prices, and very nicely built.
Some of the cheaper MC-X lenses are the 2.8/35mm (be sure to get the later 5L version, not the earlier 7L):
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/150-minolta-35mm-f28
Also quite affordable is the MC-X 2.8/28mm and even more so the MC-X 3.5/28mm (get the 5L version as well!):
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/147-minolta-28mm-f28
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/148-minolta-28mm-f35
Of course the MC-X 2.8/135mm is a good choice - both the 6L and the 4L are equally well suited. The first version of the MC-X 3.5/135mm has an exceptionally smooth focusing, btw:
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/171-minolta-135mm-f28
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/172-minolta-135mm-f35
I can also recommend the MC-X 4/200mm - certainly one of the best vintage 4/200 lenses:
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/176-minolta-200mm-f4
The MC-X 3.5/200 is a huge and heavy beast, but often quite inexpensive:
http://www.artaphot.ch/minolta-sr/objektive/175-minolta-200mm-f35
My personal favourites are the following MC-X lenses: 2.8/16mm Fisheye, 2.8/21mm, 2.5/28mm, 1.8/35mm, 1.4/50mm, 1.2/58mm, and 1.7/85mm.
The later MD-I/II series has a few nice lenses as well: 4/17mm (also available as MC-X), 2/28mm (also available as MC-X), 1.8/35mm (new small computation), 1.2/50mm, 2/85mm, 2.5/100mm, and 4.5/300mm IF (the latter with lots of CAs though).
S |
Well SteveMark if 3rd party lenses are easier to get and cheaper........on film would you see the difference between excellent 3rd party lenses and Minolta lenses if all you are going to do are JPGs and A4 prints and for much larger prints why not go for a MF film camera.
Anyway just e.g. try and get a Minolta 24mm cheap when e.g. an Ensinor 24mm is much cheaper.
_________________
Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021
Posts: 1271
Location: Kent, UK
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2022 9:10 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
| Excalibur wrote: |
Well SteveMark if 3rd party lenses are easier to get and cheaper........on film would you see the difference between excellent 3rd party lenses and Minolta lenses if all you are going to do are JPGs and A4 prints and for much larger prints why not go for a MF film camera.
Anyway just e.g. try and get a Minolta 24mm cheap when e.g. an Ensinor 24mm is much cheaper. |
Of course there will always be images where the differences cannot be easily seen, and such images can easily be set up to "prove" that Minolta glass is not visibly better or different. But for sure you would see the difference in real-world shots. Sharpness on film most lenses can achieve. But there is the different bokeh, different color rendering/consistency, different CA behaviour, different philosophy as to correction for residual errors such as SA etc. ...
The OP's question was re. a recommendation on Minolta MD glass, after all his daughter bought a Minolta XG-1, not an MF camera
_________________
Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5019
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2022 9:41 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
| RokkorDoctor wrote: |
| Excalibur wrote: |
Well SteveMark if 3rd party lenses are easier to get and cheaper........on film would you see the difference between excellent 3rd party lenses and Minolta lenses if all you are going to do are JPGs and A4 prints and for much larger prints why not go for a MF film camera.
Anyway just e.g. try and get a Minolta 24mm cheap when e.g. an Ensinor 24mm is much cheaper. |
Of course there will always be images where the differences cannot be easily seen, and such images can easily be set up to "prove" that Minolta glass is not visibly better or different. But for sure you would see the difference in real-world shots. Sharpness on film most lenses can achieve. But there is the different bokeh, different color rendering/consistency, different CA behaviour, different philosophy as to correction for residual errors such as SA etc. ...
The OP's question was re. a recommendation on Minolta MD glass, after all his daughter bought a Minolta XG-1, not an MF camera |
H'mm well for my Minolta cameras have only 3 Minolta lenses, but plenty of Tamron adaptall and M42 adapter for quite a few suitable screw lenses, plus 3rd party lenses for Minolta and wonder what I am missing by not using Minolta lenses 
_________________
Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2022 11:05 am Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
A quick perusal of the usual local haunts turned up not much at all Minolta wise.
Filed for quick memory reference is a SR-100 (?) with Rokkor -X 50mm f2, and that is about it.
The problem with me is I get distracted by Nikon lenses, and the odd TLR.
I have had somewhat limited past experience with minolta glass before, and some of it was pretty nice for the short time I used it.
I'd like to try and get o.e.m. for the first lens I get for it.
Some of the straight ribbed rokkors on Stephan's page look a bit familiar, if not at least nice...
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021
Posts: 1271
Location: Kent, UK
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2022 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
| Excalibur wrote: |
| H'mm well for my Minolta cameras have only 3 Minolta lenses, but plenty of Tamron adaptall and M42 adapter for quite a few suitable screw lenses, plus 3rd party lenses for Minolta and wonder what I am missing by not using Minolta lenses |
You are probably not missing anything!
Just enjoy shooting with what you have. Very few lenses of any make will suddenly expand your photographic skills/experience, apart from some specialist ones.
Working with Minolta lenses does give a general impression of consistency in the way they draw, which is not something I can say from the 3rd party ones I have tried. That doesn't mean it is better, or fills in something that is "missing". But it is a noticeable feature of the Rokkors.
Given a certain scene, I can usually pretty well predict how the image will pan out if I have a Minolta Rokkor lens on the camera, whilst the better 3rd party ones are still a bit more hit-and-miss; sometimes a nice surprise, sometimes a disappointing one.
_________________
Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5019
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2022 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
****whilst the better 3rd party ones are still a bit more hit-and-miss; sometimes a nice surprise, sometimes a disappointing one.****
erm even the hidden gems recommended here, but would think the factory inspection was probably better at Minolta than 3rd party lenses so less problem buying others with copy variation. But then, even Nikon had copy variation as I remember (many years ago) the pros used to go to their friendly Photography shop and try a few same lenses out......... and picked the best.
_________________
Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5019
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2022 10:02 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
A quick perusal of the usual local haunts turned up not much at all Minolta wise.
Filed for quick memory reference is a SR-100 (?) with Rokkor -X 50mm f2, and that is about it.
The problem with me is I get distracted by Nikon lenses, and the odd TLR.
I have had somewhat limited past experience with minolta glass before, and some of it was pretty nice for the short time I used it.
I'd like to try and get o.e.m. for the first lens I get for it.
Some of the straight ribbed rokkors on Stephan's page look a bit familiar, if not at least nice...
-D.S. |
Well if you decide on other than Minolta lenses....when I use my Minolta cameras and for wide angle use Vivitar 28mm f2.8 close focus and the number on the front of the lens would start with 28, and Ensinor 24mm f2.8 and I'm not saying they are better than Minolta glass, but I'm happy with them.
_________________
Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011
Posts: 3754
Location: Switzerland
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2022 11:46 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
| stevemark wrote: |
| Excalibur wrote: |
| Plenty of non Minolta made lenses available and some are excellent.......worth checking the forum for the good ones. |
Naahh ... !!
...
S |
I really hope you didn't take this too serious
I was responding more from the collectors point of view - and honestly I enjoy my Minolta cameras being equipped with original Minolta lenses. Same for the Nikon SLRs, the Canon stuff and the Mamiya gear: They look nicer to me with their original lenses.
I own quite a few Sigma / Tamron / Tokina / Vivitar etc lenses as well. Some Tamrons are pretty nice (especially the 2.5/90 Macro which is really excellent), but many of these lenses have issues now: Fungus and haze for instance (many interesting Sigma lenses have nearly guaranteed "haze" issues, e. g. the 5.6/400 APO and 6.7/500 APO series, the early MF and AF 14mm, the otherwise excellent 50-200 APO zoom, etc)
In addition, quite a few interesting looking lenses are vastly inferior compared to their contemporary OEM equivalents (eg Tamron Auto 4.5/21mm vs Minolta MC 2.8/21mm or Tokina RMC 3.5/17mm vs Minolta MD 4/17mm, Sigma 8/600mm Reflex vs Minolta or Nikkor 8/500mm Var II, Vivitar/Kiron/Komine 2/28mm lenses vs Minolta or Canon 2/28mm etc.).
S
_________________
www.artaphot.ch |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5019
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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| Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2022 7:29 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
****I really hope you didn't take this too serious Wink***
Actually I did 
If the OP is still reading this thread......it's worth checking the light seals in the camera back OR wait until you get the film developed and you'll soon know with white streaks over your picture.
_________________
Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 994
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2022 6:37 am Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
| Excalibur wrote: |
If the OP is still reading this thread......it's worth checking the light seals in the camera back OR wait until you get the film developed and you'll soon know with white streaks over your picture. |
I'm still looking in here from time to time.
The film I put into the camera is awfully pink at the leader.
I'm now on frame 6 of a 24 exp. roll, and will just wait until it's shot to see if I get anything at all.
I may have to buy a new roll of film for it.
There is a slight dent on the film loading door that really doesn't show in the pictures above.
It looks minor to me, but we shall see...
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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