Kodak D-76

[Attila]

My latest and seems favorite developer. Why ?

1) All film what I did try required same develop time, Agfa APX 100, Fomapan 100, Fortepan 100,Orwo NP 20,Ilford 50 and come out nice with great tone, limited grain. This is big thing to me due I like to try many films and develop them in batch two tanks 6 rolls at same time.
2) Long self life stock dilution keep 2-3 months
3) Inexpensive with 1L stock dilution I did develop 25 rolls already and no sign of end. After each 4 rolls I did extend time with 1 minute.

Some samples
http://forum.mflenses.com/contax-ii-sonnar-5cm-f2-0-pre-war-ilford-pan-f50-kodak-d-76-t55572,highlight,%2Bkodak.html
http://forum.mflenses.com/certo-six-portraits-fomapan-100-kodak-d-76-wide-open-t55539,highlight,%2Bkodak.html
http://forum.mflenses.com/certo-six-second-version-fomapan-100-kodak-d-76-t55382,highlight,%2Bkodak.html
http://forum.mflenses.com/kodak-technical-pan-mamiya-c3-kodak-d-76-t54675,highlight,%2Bkodak.html
http://forum.mflenses.com/ultrix-6x9-ihagee-fortepan-100-kodak-d-76-t54509,highlight,%2Bkodak.html
http://forum.mflenses.com/mamiya-c3-fortepan-100-kodak-d-76-t54614,highlight,%2Bkodak.html

[marzipan]

D-76 also comes (or at least it used to come) in the shape of D-76R, which is a specially formulated replenisher solution. After each use one adds the prescribed number of milliliters (forgot how much) and can this way keep the same developing soup going (keeping its characteristics) for a LONG time. Was very useful in larger labs with big tanks of D76.

Does anyone know the recipy for the R solution? Metol, hydroquinone, and...?

D76 is also in my experience a perfect developer for most classic films and I have been using it for years. Tri-X, HP5, Neopan, they all turn out very good in it. Well structured medium sized grain and good detail, also on faster films.

T-max 3200 however did NOT work so well the times I tried, good to know for those who still have some left.

[jimithing616]

Yea, I like Rodinal for the T3200

I would probably not develop different films in the same tank regardless of their developing times... the different emulsions may cause improper results... there was a discussion about this over on APUG... People over there with more knowledge than me seemed to have had bad experiences with it... or if not BAD... not as GOOD as when developed alone... Up to you though

D-76 is good stuff though... I would recommend getting good at using it... it will surprise you how great the results can really be... this and rodinal are really awesome stuff...

[Schnauzer]

Some of your film was really quite old. It must have been still good to get such nice results. Do you think part of the reason it came out so well was the developer itself or would it have come out as good with a different developer?

[Attila]

[NikonAIS]

I have used D-76 and Microdol-X for the last 40+ years. Microdol 1:3 produces very high acutance and tight grain but the development times are somewhat long and shadow detail is sometimes lacking. D-76 1:1 @ 68 degrees is a good combination with wide EV range and it lends itself very well to N-1, N+1 and N+2 developments.

[moltogordo]

You've discovered the charms of a great developer. Ilford ID 11, by the way, is essentially the same thing. D76 has long been a favorite of pictorialists, but I'll throw in with jimithing616 in saying that you should really get to know it - any chemical benefits from the user having experience with it, but I think especially D76.

Being the lazy slob that I am, I went to HC110, diluting straight from the syrup, because it is very similar to D76 and the one shot concept is much easier for my mind to grasp than replenishing. I use HC110 with HP5, exposed at ASA320, 1:64 for 11 minutes at 68. I use Rodinal on a few other films like Tri-X because I like the quality of the negatives.

I seldom use other films (except XP2) going to a larger format negative rather than a different film, but I am a cantankerous old fart set in my ways! And I am still crying over the loss of Plus X, not yet ready to believe it no longer exists and having to use FP4, which is a perfectly good film.